rusty_wingnut

My local fab company used to be the place for getting my steel, but the local pikeys started to rob everything and anything from their yard (within spitting distance of a scrap yard) Now they refuse to let anybody in. Tried Outlook as first suggested and although they don't have the exact tube I require they do have something else I can machine to suit. I'm building some engine mounts using the older narrow radius arm bushes to keep my mates 4.2 from trying to escape

1996 300tdi 90, my missus always complains about the cold, on our way back from Goodwood this year she complained it was too hot. Can't be bad? Only precaution when it gets really cold is to put a piece of cardboard over the front of the rad, leaving the intercooler free

a WELL setup 19j 88 can pull rangie diffs but i wouldn't tow with it. off road it was first ger low for anything major and you can't use any other gear.

i agree i'd be mightily impressed if its 1 or 3 sounds to me like prop reverberation caused by misalignment.

really not smart bolting the turbo'd head onto that block......... won't matter what ratios you've got you won't be going anywhere fast

Hello all, I'm trying to find a place online to buy short lengths of steel tube particularly 2.25" 14SWG or similar. have tried the website www.metals4u.co.uk but looks a bit pricey and doesn't stock my req size. Anybody have any other websites they can link to? our local shop has closed

not as simple as that under heavy load the bump stop will compress. also why unbolt the springs? unbolt the U bolts is a lot easier

adding 130rims makes you a better man. i found harmony once fitted. I now have wider track and better lock.

whatever you do keep the original engine with it

Superb thanks Dave!

i have got a Borg Warner viscous unit but am unsure of the ratio, are there multiple ratios for these or just one?

i think removing the transfer box off a series first is a bit work heavy. unbolt the floor and use the scaffold bar trick

and buy some feeler gauges and do the tappets properly else you're probably making it worse.

scaffold bar ropped to gearbox, one of you either end and off you go.

one of the best upgrades i made to my series, ok less power and weight but it got some abuse. It's nice to know it will survive as much as i dare thow at it. Very well made axle and purely mighty diff wise. I rebuilt mine with all nice new genuine bits like shafts, flanges etc. Well worth doing if you've got a bit of cash to throw at it. It'd be interesting to see how long it will last with 37s

**** just remembered. will sort it later.

Galv ladder frame no matter what! Galv bulkhead, straight 6 turbo diesel, 6 speed box, locker in the rear. twin heaters!

Durbar Special?

i think you need to swap selectors and even then the housing doesn't fit too great?

been running good old 7.50s with cheapo britpart leafs and have to say am very impressed! matched up with standard spec dampers the truck sits nice and tall and they haven't sagged. the locater peg needed filing to fit the axle but other than that i would buy them again.

had a thought on this, i reckon you might well need to find a way of controlling the vanes on small throttle openings. In traffic the last thing you want is a fair chunk of boost and find yourself whizzing along in first gear using a fair bit of fuel to boot. Maybe a throttle potentiometer to measure throttle openings and perhaps control the nozzles? It's when you open the loud pedal you want more boost than you would get with a normal 300tdi, but some situations like parking don't need more boost than standard? Just a thought.

well done Gents! another one saved!

You never said it was purely an off roader, it does beg the question then why not keep the disco as is and chop that about?

well said FF there seems to be more of these "clowns with a welder" who produce an abomination that last 10mins and then is worthless when it's rotted out.

I've tried a quick Google but can't find any info on Timm's Series 1 only his S3. Any pointers?