ChrisM_110

Another vote for roof flashing tape, warmed with a hot air gun it sticks really well, and works a treat. I get mine from Screwfix.

I've just repaired mine after the same problem. I just flipped the assembly over, drilled out the hole, ground out the web at the back to hold the side of the head of a bolt, and that was it, job done. LR do this with prop bolts, so I'm sure it's fine. I had thought of coiling the hole, but could not be arsed, and a bolt fitted 'backwards' holds to torque fine.

I've seen an LT95 12C on a 110 with a Salisbury front axle and a 17C on summat else. My Google fu is poor, there's no other help on the interwebs.

Also check MAF operation, this is often the cause of low top end power.

What does the bottom right of the MMap window say - 'no signal', or 'can't open com port'? I use MMap, and a GPS using the same drivers and it works fine. Don't change com ports, just go to device manager, check what com port is allocated, and enter that number into MMap GPS setup. The baud rate MUST be 4800 for MMap, set this in device manager.

It was last year, which is probably no help whatsoever.

I got a pair of 3-door 110 new-take-offs from Hobsons [i think], for £65 via Ebay. Steel, one piece, nice and straight and well packed. No connection to Hobsons, natch. They usually do van sides and roofs from ROW spec trucks.

I replaced all four outriggers on my 110 with Britpart, and they were excellent in fit and finish. Rear crossmember however was from MPS, the Britpart one looked awful. Rear shock mounts - Britpart G - no problems. Britpart thermostat - failed shut, cooked my 300tdi.

That's an Evo Star*Chip from BBRGTi.

Well, I'm fairly sure there was steam escaping from the back of the block, but there was steam arsing about everywhere so I'm not 100% sure. I'm planning on head gasket, inspection and oil change tomorrow afternoon, and a quick prayer too.

Cheers boys, more news tomorrow after some work, thnks again.

Thanks for the replies and help. Head gasket to do tomorrow then. Bum. Mike: it's a non standard gauge fitted by the previous owner with a Kenlowe, I'd say it was fairly accurate. When you say pull No 4 and look for damage what exactly am I looking for?

Never thought to do that, and it did look a bit thin and smingy, I was just checking for signs of head gasket failure to be honest. I'm more worried that as it appears the new rattle in engine load related it might be big end, but I'll do a full oil change tomorrow, thanks for the tip.

Caveat: I'm not that au fait with diesel engines, be gentle. On Sunday my new thermostat [from a blue box] failed shut, and the engine hit 120ºC in seconds, as I was going up a long hill with a 3 door 110 rear tub on the roof rack. I shut the engine off within 20 secs, coasted to the side of the road, had a swear, and shouted at the RAC for sending a Transit to suspended tow me, then waited 2 hours in temperatures that were melting the waxoyl out of my rear door frame, by the side of the M5 for a flatbed. The engine boiled most of it's water immediately, and steam appeared to be escaping from the back of the head, I'm not sure as there was a lot of it, as the expansion tank cap did it's thing as well. Today I replaced the thermostat, natch, retorqued head bolts [all were fine], checked water pump, water was clear of oil, oil was clear of emulsion.I then ran it up to temp. It sounded fine, no more rattles than normal, thermostat [an 88º wakstat not another unnamed blue box job] opened and closed as expected. However, when actually driving and under load, rather than sat there revving away warming up, at anything over 25% throttle there's a lovely new rattly tappety noise. What have I killed?

The NRC6951 are for the military jerry can holders IIRC.

Good luck, hope you get it sorted. When I worked and lived in Chepstow his 'yard' was usually full of junk in heaps being driven over by chavs on bikes. Not quite as nice as it sounds either. I had the same issue with autocraft 4x4 South, who then renamed themselves something I can't remember. I left neutral feedback once for one item [not as pictured and heavily rusted], and am now blocked from bidding on any of their items on any of their ID's. Once their neutral and negative feedback built up, they simply changed ID. Ah well, no great loss. Trading through a community, like this one, will always be safer.

To speed up step 8 I use a length of bleed tube, and slap a wide nozzle 50ml syringe on and have a good suck. Smaller syringes don't pull enough air, needs to be a nice big one. </single entendres>

Damn, that's nasty.

For a cheapskates new-style hinge buy some cheap Birtprat or Bearmach hinges, knock the pin out, grind a small recess for a nylon washer, paint and re-assemble with the pin copper or white lithium greased.

[small rant] Yes, original CD's. I run a PC business and any knocked off software on the premises is a bad idea. My big rant stands, it's not possible to get it working on 50% of modern OS's, especially 64bit ones, because the Hexalock encryption driver uses calls to the system core [which demand administrative privilege on 2000/XP], which are rightly blocked now in Vista and 7[for security reasons]. There was a Vista patch for this issue [provided by the creators of Hexalock], but it only works on 50% of systems. Anything else is guesswork, as MGA are not helpful, competent, easy to contact or able to release a patch that works, support an OS after Windows XP, support any PDF reader after Acrobat7. The Heritage CD's are also supplied for Triumph, Mini and many other makes and they're just as annoyed. [/small rant]

The main problem is the pointlessly stupid Hexalock encryption of the PDF's. Ive had to keep an old virtual Windows XP partition up and running just for this. It won't work under any other OS, I've tried them all [it will run in an up to date virtual machine, but not in Windows 7's VirtualXP Mode]. Gits at Mark Greer told me this was by design, idiots. The encryption driver won't run on a 64bit OS, or with certain optical drives.

As ^ it's arse gravy. Brown's Gas is a stoichiometric mix of Hydrogen and Oxygen [i.e. a proportional mix equivalent to that in water]. Brown's Gas generators are very expensive. What comes out of those little electrolysis bottles isn't Brown's Gas, it's hydrogen and oxygen, it requires current to dissociate the water, and therefore will actually reduce your MPG. It will also annoy any ECU that requires accurate 02 readings. You'd be better off MPG wise changing your air and oil filter regularly, removing unneeded roof racks and keeping your tyres at recommended pressure.

When I did my roof [110] I just took it off, slapped it on two workmates and did it upside down, quick and easy.

+1 for a Prestolite. I've had a Disco 100Amp on my 300TDi for years. Finally failed after a mud/water/sheep wee bath too many. Replaced with a Prestolite 100Amp from Foundry4x4 up the road from me, for £85. Correct sized pulley included. Don't forget to save your old pulley, just in case. Also the only job where I needed one spanner only. No hammers, PlusGas, Hiabs or seventeen extra hands required. Mmmmm, rewarding.

As ^ arc welding, especially with the [expensive] dissimilar rods is pretty successful. I've seen it done, not tried myself yet. Some cold-galv primer once the welds are tidied will last until you're ready to re-galv.