timc1967

I don't know the answer but is yours 200TDI, like my civilian 1992 Defender? Mine never gets really hot, so just curious why you want extra cooling. None of my business really :-)

Are the bolts the same distance apart as the front bumper mounts?

Is that rubber in there like an engine mount or all metal?

Great site - thanks. I will be receiving item #8 SS108161L which I now see is an m8 x 16 so wont substitute. I guess tensile strength is a factor, but I will probably have no choice and have to source something m6 x 15 of the appropriate length which should be obtainable.

I discovered my downpipe is not secured correctly and the join has skewed (at clamp #2 in the picture). Rather than just rejoin it, I have ordered all the parts to attach the correct brackets: 1. to the block half way down the downpipe 2. to the chassis at the back end of the downpipe All the parts are now on their way to me, except #4 screw in the diagram SS106161L, (of which I need 2), which is apparently Out Of Stock at Landrover. So I want to find an alternative. Any suggestions? I presume its a standard thread and the variation in the various screws in the diagram not completely arbitrary - like specific length what, I have no idea as the parts are missing completely on my old bus.

That's a great point, I have the heated screen on my older 110, and I really do need a new screen on the Defender. I would not attempt to fit it or wire it myself though.

Certainly I would use fluid mixed appropriately for the season. But it's a good point about hot on cold glass!

I hope its OK to resurrect this tech advice topic. I like the idea of heated washer jets, but I also like simple solutions. So I was wondering if anyone had tried simply to route the washer piping via a hotter part of the engine. Some sort of non-flammable piping required, water washer fluid would arrive at the jets as hot as you like.

When I had a Discovery 1 I bought a load of switches on ebay to replace only the clock. I am hoping to use the rear wash-wipe switch from there for my 1992 defender. The centre switch panel has been butchered anyway. I am hoping the wiring is similar, but I have not done research on it as its not top of my to-do list.

Interesting.

Got mine re-chassis'd 3 MOTs ago and it feels great going in for the MOT.

Unfortunately, the image was 3MB on my PC is now 130KB when I re-download it from this site, so I think its lacking resolution.

So many people replace those with electric fans, why not go that route? The engine is non standard anyway so you're not keep it "original".

I have the haynes manual for this - is it permitted to share a scan of the wiring diagram from it?

I have wondered this as well as my 1992 defender doesn't have rear wash wipe switch, a clock or cig lighter socket, all were removed to fit a mud centre console which I have removed.

That's a bugger. I had a power drain on mine, as I connected the battery I could hear a relay clicking on, and found the previous owner had wired the spot lights through a relay that was powered even with the engine off. All removed and now no power drain. That doesn't help you though. But it does make me wonder, have you removed any of the relays in the fuse box? Could be a problem in one of those.

Do you mean: as soon as you connect the battery or as soon as you turn the key to start it? Or even as soon as you turn on anything on that fuse that you mentioned earlier (flash, hazard, horn etc). Or as soon as you put the new fuse in? Other

I have read on here that the dim-dip relay can be removed as they are not required. If you can find that thread, maybe you can work out how to temporarily bypass it and confirm that it's faulty.

I'm going to vote *not safe* but by all means await an expert who I think will also say *not safe*

That's a weird site - doesn't explicity state that these are pretty much all direct replacement Defender parts. Is that the case? Prices are high, but I can see its heavy duty, built to last; more so than OEM.

Optimil handles? Link please.

The rotor arm looks like one of these https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/series/series-3/parts/electrical/rtc3614-g-lucas-rotor-arm-ser-3-suffix-d-and-all-90110-4-cylinder-petrol.html as shown in the picture almost at the bottom of this page http://www.rovahfarm.com/defenderignitionpage2.htm

I wonder if a rachet strap around the chassis to pull in the sides while you fit the bulkhead?

Same here +1 CTek way to go.