mucdup3.5

Hi Roger, What is megasquirt is the hotwire maf easy to do? Thanks, Paul

Hi all, Thanks for the replies folks, and I appreciate your words of comfort and advice Roger. Yes I have owned many cars and most of them elderly I remember an 1967 Austin Westminster A110 that seemed like it had green seats when I bought it. Actually they were tan coloured just covered in verdigree ha ha. I used to be able to see the road out of the passenger footwell. It was thoroughly reliable during the 3yrs I owned it and the engine was superb - I sold it to a guy for his MGC. I love the `command position' of the Range Rover and I can imagine if I were a country person it would be jolly handy for sheep, bales of hay in the back, and the like, but I can see straight away that this efi is a nonsense which is just incurably bad design. I only bought the thing to empty my aunt's house as she's gone into a home, and I was going to buy a trailer but I have just lost confidence in going anywhere in it because it might throw an untraceable and untreatable wobbler. It is a pity because so many things have been done on it. New fuel tank, tyres, steering, low range driveshaft etc; C'est la vie, back to ebay I think.

Hi all, Thanks everybody for the suggestions. I had a good look over the rover Fri morning once I had finally got it started and brought it home from the local shopping centre carpark where it had been languishing and refusing to start no matter what I fiddled with since Tues night. I noticed that there was a lot of oil on the black and white wires going into the ignition module which you describe. Also most of the other connections you describe such as the thermostat sensor and thermotime switch were all dry and had verdigree and white deposits on them. I have cleaned them all up and added some protective lubricant. I tested the car by starting and driving it then leaving it for a while then started it again, and so far it seems to be starting ok - until the next time. I've only just started with this vehicle but from my experiences so far and from what I have experienced so far they are not really fit for purpose no wonder the guy that sold it to me grinned when he said he had a landcruiser now. Thanks, Paul.

Hi all, continuation of saga regarding my 1987/88 rr 3.5 efi autoi. Went to local shopping centre in it on Tuesday 4 miles from house, and it went very well. Stopped in car park, came out an hr later and it wouldn't start no matter what I did/ fiddled with. This has happened before so I lef it there overnight and went back the following night still no start. I left it there again and went back tonight. It started first time and drove absolutely perfectly. The last time this happened it took 2 days to start again, and it is as if it is on a timer!!! I can't understand it. Ideas Everybody Please??

[quote name='ThreeSheds' date='Aug 4 2008, 10:01 P Now all I need to do is find somewhere to put the secret immobiliser - oops sorry I mean the inertia switch (did you know you can lift the button and it stops the fuel pump?) TwoSheds (I sold the third) M' post='295177'] Hi do the earlier rr v8 3.5 efi's have this inertia switch, and where is it located please?

Hi all, Sorry it's a RR3.5 efi flapper. Thanks for the ideas so far. I will have a look at those items i.e. plugs, coil and ignition amp. When it's cold it starts fine with plenty of revs and goes fine initially, and it only plays up when I stop and try to start it again.

Hi all, fuel problem I had is fixed well on the fuel filter side anyway. I have looked across the top of the tank and it seems like the fuel pump flexible to fuel line might be kinked but not sure - I don't really want to drop the tank. Might this be the cause of a starting problem which is afflicting the beast. There was a very good supply of fuel before I fixed the leak sprayed out every where!! It starts fine from cold, but as soon as i go back to it after stopping sometimes 15 mins sometimes 2hrs or so it just wont fire up? Any ideas pleeease !!! I've looked at the dizzie the relays, leads etc and all look brand new. It seems like it might be in the ecu which still has it seals tags on. Does the ecu have fault codes? How long does the ecu take to reset if the power supply is removed? Thanks everybody.

Hi all, thanks for the help on this problem. The fuel filter on mine has stubby fuel lines coming in and out of it. There are also flexible hoses between it and the metal fuel lines. I found that a straight piece of hose had been used on the return connection between the fuel line and the tank this was kinked and restricting the fuel flow. The proper elbow is readily available so it seems ridiculous that the person who put a new fuel tank in the car before I bought it didn't renew this properly. Also by squinting through the gap between the floor and the tank it would seem that the fuel pump to fuel line is also a straight piece of flexible pipe and is similarly kinked although there doesn't seem to be a problem with the supply side. Maybe the pumping pressure is forcing it open? Is there a tool which prepares the end of the pipes with the taper and bump over which the flexible hoses fit (sorry for the non technical description)? Thanks also for the web address I will have a look. I rang Pirtek in MK and they said they can do the lines for me if I bring the originals in as a pattern. He said their lines will out last my RR many times over even without a coating and they can coat them if I want. Haven't got a price yet

Hi, I have had fuel problems with my 3.5 efi relating to the connections and pipes around the fuel filter. When I broke down on the motorway the nice RAC man undid all the clips on the flexible hoses unfortunately this started a chain of problems. I replaced the flexible fuel return pipe into the tank , which was just a bent straight piece of flexible with the correct elbow. However in doing so I seem to have disturbed the steel pipe which goes up over the chassis. This pipe is corroded and sprang a leak. I tried unsuccessfully to put a sleeve of flexible 10mm pipe over the steel pipe but I am having difficulty getting a seal so that the leak has moved forward of the rear chassis member. Is it possible to use something like ptfe tape on the steel pipe to take up the imperfections or will siilcon sealant do the job? I want to avoid replacing the steel pipe if possible as I think it may be difficult to get proper replacement. I spoke with my local LR dealer and he said the pipe is no longer available through them.

Hi Chris, I had similar recent problems with my 3.5 efi I noticed that the return to the tank was just a straight piece of flexible fuel pipe this was kinking and shutting off the return to the tank on replacemet with the proper elbow fuel gushed through of course the efi is under much higher pressure.

Hi Everybody, Thanks for the replies. Yes it does seem like it may have been a combination of bad connections although I discovered something new when I was looking at the gearbox console yesterday. I noticed that the range selector gearstick was not properly in the high range position and on moving it found it to be somwhat near the neutral position. Although it seemed to be moving through the gears ok. I have now moved it into the high position where it should be for normal driving. Could this have contributed to the pump stalling? I am renewing the flexible fuel lines as the RAC man undid the jubilees and now they all leak and I do not like the state of them. I do not think the pipe is proper injector fuel pipe. I had to order the fuel return pipe which hs a u bend in it from a land rover dealer (£9.74 it's about 6" long) as the one I bought off eba never arrived. I will go over the connections thoroughly including the earth side. Unfortunately the earlier (than 89) rrs' didn't have access through the boot floor as the RAC man and I looked for this and I read this later in another forum. The fact that there was voltage at the pump when the engine was turned over indicates I think that there is not a relay fault per se, but from my experience with other cars with ECU's almost any situation can be induced by one thing not being quite right. Thanks a lot Paul aka: mucdup3.5

I recently bought a 1988 3.5 drove round town/block fine then went to pick up a trailer 54 miles up the M6 it cutout. RAC man came and started looking at the fuel pump connections. He put a meter on the pump circuit and I turned engine over and there was voltage, but no pumping. He undid all the fuel lines said it looked like the fuel return pipe looked kinked. Decided to recover me home. I rang the previous owner the next day, and he said it is unlikely to be the fuel pump as he put a new one on with the new fuel tank. He said try it again today. I did and it started first time. Is this a common problem with rrclassics, and can anybody suggest a reason for what happened and if this is likely to happen again how to cure it? Many thanks, Paul aka: mucdup3.5