nibbles

yes there is, on the rave cd there is a full work shop manual on all models up to the p38 range rover.

i and alot of other people us peltor and it is one of the best intercoms out there.

it is simply a case of changing the manifold, however the exhaust down pipe will need to be changed, i.e you need to make it shorter.

try wheel balancing, a weight might have came off, or the other thing could be uneven wear on tyres however this would happen over time. it would most likely be wheel balancing

i would have a good look under the car to see any leaks, and top the box up with oil first, if this has no effect the next thing i would do is change the filter in the box.

there is a removable plate, but you have to use spanners as you can't get a socket on them. i would do this as it means you can leave the starter moter in place. it just takes a bit longer to undo the bolts this way thats all.

the thing to do mate is to undo the torque convertor from the engine, i.e leave it attached to the box. when you do this just hold it in place with a couple of cable ties. then you don't have to worry about the seal on the gearbox pump. then you can take the engine out, change the seal, then but it back in and re-attach the torque convertor, i is only 4 bolts on a standard box which isn't to bad compared to my racer which is 8 bolts. just make sure when you do them back up you put some lock tite on the as you don't want them to come undone as it will bend the flexi plate if they come loose. any problems then give me a ring you have my number.

yes mate i saw the vid i was round mj's on sunday nite. lots of guys race with (tractor) engines, and when i've seen them roll not really a problem just a bit more smoke. best think to do is to shut it off asap and let it stand for a bit before starting just like you would with a v8.

hamish give me a ring over the weekend and i'll tell you the easy way. as i have done it lots of times with the racer and i've got it down to an art as i can get the box out on the floor in 30 mins. my mobile is 07917801590. adrian.

you wont roll hamish you dont try hard enough not in your new tractor.

price cut now £250

brown brothers, on the castle industrial estate, portsmouth. they have every thing and even mix any colour for you.

i have 4 general grabber AT2 215 /65 /16 they have done less than 30 miles from new. these would be great for a freelander. £300 for all 4 they are in birmingham area but could take down to the portsmouth area if needed mobile 07917801590

Or anywhere Surrey, Sussex, Hampshire areas I can ring / walk in and buy ? brown brothers on the castle industrial estate, portsmouth.

found a pic of the 90 after i had just painted it.

i use to work for a spray repaire shop and a very good mate still does so this is what i would do. stay well away from water base paints. this is 2 pack i.e you have a base coat which is the colour then a clear coat that goes on as the finial coat this is what turned to jelly. you can still get this sort of paint, however you need heat make the paint go off and good ventaliation. i would use tecalod paint as all you will need to do is to key up the panels and then paint on top. you can spray it on which correats alot of overspray. i used a small roller and brush to do my 90 and pollished it to get rid of any dust in the paint. it looked like glass after i finished. for the best results for spraying or with a roller but the paint in a hot water bath before you start. this helps the paint flow and you are left with no brush marks and an overall nicer finish. if you use a roller and brush then you do not need a mask, if spraying then it is a very good idea. any cood car paint supplier will have them, just a mask with filters will be good enough. good preperation is the key. take your time to get rid of an dirt and make sure all surfaces are nice and smooth as it will show up 10 x on the finish product.

go to www.strongmantools.co.uk they have a couple of designs and if i remember they are or can be self contained.

saw this at land rover world show really liked it. it might be just the thing you are looking for or give you some ideas anyway. the company is called strongman tools.

it is 260 lb/ft locktite must be used as well and after a 100 miles or so recheck and re torque. you don't want it to come off. i've seen it happen the front cover is scrap and so is the engine if you are unlucky for it to snap the timing belt as the pully comes of with key in the crank snaped off. so if can't torque it do it f**king tight.

i have a single tmax and use it when racing. its great woudn't change it for anything.

come on Robbie Grodon. this years dakar is great just wish i was there.

Ben works in Hamble playing with Princess power boats cool

this set up would be good but it all depends who you want to race with as each club has there own rules. as i have a ALRC spec car it gives me the scope to race with anyone.

the heads are 14 bolt heads but have just got bigger valves, i am after a twin plenum to increase the air in take if anyone has one.

very similar. had a couple of problems getting it to run right. but got rid of the 3.5 injection system with mark adams ecu (for sale by the way) and but a 3.9 setup on it with megasquirt. next step is to go coil pack. see if i can get any more out of it but still making it reliable. o and try to remeber about the split and merge,not to do a 90 left flat out.