catsinthewelder

Now back together and working, cheers for your help Al

Electric window switches and the radio are on the centre console so could all your problem bits be earthed or fed from there? Theres a rubber panel rivited on around the gear levers and mine certainly isn't waterproof. I'm sure someone who knows what they're talking about will be along later, I've only been a Land Rover owner for a month.

A big box came from Rimmer brothers yesterday and I set to fitting all my shiney new bits. I'm using white90's method of pushing the box back 7 inches and working through the gap which is tricky but possible. Two things which arn't possible with this method are using a generic clutch alignment tool and drifting a crankshaft oil seal on with a tube like you're supposed to. After lowering the tone at our local Land Rover dealership this morning I came away with a replacement oil seal and a determination not to wreck this one. I pressed it on with the flywheel mounting plate, 4 of the flywheel mounting bolts and 4 brass nuts from 15mm compression joints. The flywheel, clutch and it's operating bits went on without a hitch and the gearbox is back on and working now after a four hour battle that was won with a big crowbar to the handbrake drum. Just need to get the gearbox mounting, propshafts and exhaust back on and I can drive it back home to sort out the interior. Wasn't that a fun way to spend a weeks annual leave.

Well I've taken her apart and the release bearing was a right mess, the plastic had melted and spat out all around the bellhousing. I pulled the release fork out to weld a stiffener on but the bearing had worn slots in the front so that's scrap. I took the clutch off and found it to be fairly worn so scrapped that too, behind it the spigot bearing was loose, cracked and mis-shapen so that's on the shopping list. The bellhousing itself was an oily mess inside so I decided to change the crankshaft oil seal while I can, I pulled off the flywheel then had cause to speak to the previous owner who reminded me that the clutch slave had been leaking. Might as well change the thing just in case though, there was certainly oil on the back of the flywheel. It's geting a bit more expensive and time consuming than I expected as I need to change a tranfer box oil seal and the back of the exhaust too. The handbrake was being a right pain last week so that might need a new cable too as I can't find anything wrong inside. Glad I've got a weeks holiday from work, just a pain that I'm stuck in the carpark.

Thanks for the offer but thinking about it properly the gearbox I've got isn't too bad, a bit like your spare box you have to be a bit careful changing from 1st to 2nd and very careful changing from 3rd to 2nd. I've talked it over with SWMBO and it's staying as it doesn't bother her. Thanks for the advice on the spring though, I'll try and get one in time for the weekends spannering. Clutch kit is ordered, welder on standby to reinforce the fork, boss is letting me use the carpark at work so plenty of room to work. What could possibly go wrong?

Thanks Al, I've just had a look in the tech library. The Haynes book reckons it's easier to pull the engine rather than the gearbox to do the clutch but everyone on here seems to drop the box or even just seperate it which sounds great to me as I really didn't fancy pulling the engine out. I have removed an engine before but it was an aircooled VW effort from a campervan and probably more comparable in weight and technique to pulling the box on a Disco. I've got a 3T trolley jack and some stands and will be able to use ramps a wheeled trolley, a few smaller jacks and a carpark if it can wait a week (I work at a college) I don't fancy attempting it on the road outside my house as it's a fairly steep hill and won't exactly endear me with the neighbours. Advice seems to be to use an old input shaft to align the clutch, there isn't a chance that anybody has such a thing lying round is there? Happy to provide a deposit and pay postage but don't really want to buy one just to do this. There seems to be a Discovery breakers fairly locally so I can always try there. I'm in a bit of a quandry over the gearbox too. Mine has lost syncro on 2nd and the springs that centre it in neutral are broken so it centres between 1st and 2nd. I can't afford £500+ for a rebuilt box but have seen them 2nd hand and supposedly good for £100. I wasn't planning to replace it any time soon but if I'm disconnecting it anyway it would certainly make sense. Is there any way of knowing how good the box is? Any stories about the Breakers in Craven Arms or Wolverhampton?

The Discovery 200TDi I bought last month is making a horrible squeeling noise when you press the clutch pedal with the engine running and is harder than normal to change gear, it also flashed up idiot lights for hot transfer box when driven down the bypass. I initially thought that it would be the clutch hydraulics that had caused the previous owner some issues but the Haynes Book of Lies says Worn clutch release bearings or worn or dry clutch pedal bushes or faulty pressure plate assembly or pressure plate diaphragm spring broken or Broken clutch disc cushioning springs A friend on an old car forum has added that it could be the clutch fork failing. As all of these things are inside the clutch and getting there involves removing the engine or gearbox does the team think that it will survive a weeks worth of 4 mile each way school runs? I've got a weeks holiday the week after next so could possibly do the work then. Alternatively I could spend that week getting our other car (an Austin 1100) roadworthy so we can put that into daily use and fix the Disco on the drive rather than the street. What I could do with knowing is whether or not I'm going to do any damage by continuing to use it. If so the kids might get an extra weeks holiday as I'm not going to use taxis for the school run and it's not really doable by public transport.

Likewise, would have been happy to help and available to in the future.

I was sick of tripping over the kids sandpit last year so put the small shed on stilts (made of pallets), put the sandpit on wheels and wheeled it underneath. If you got a small shed that was a bit bigger than the trailer and built it with the floor just above trailer height but the walls down to ground level but open at one end to get the trailer out, you could have a tool store without taking up much more space than the trailer does now.

Thankyou very much Steve, I found a local Discovery breakers on ebay this morning while looking for something else so I'll see what I can arrange. I'm sure he'll be a lot happier if I arrive knowing what I'm doing

I'm in Ludlow, I don't mind picking it up and holding onto it for a week or two but I'm not planning on driving very far north in the near future so someone will need to fetch it.

I bought my first Land Rover last week, it's a 93 Discovery 200tdi 3 door. I got it from a friend who did point out where it needs welding and a few other issues. The most obvious is that it has a big dent in the osr wing that has split the weld between the wing and the corner panel (split covered with tape to keep out the weather). I've tried to access the dent from the inside to push it out by removing the folding seat and trim but rather inconveniently there is an inner wing in the way. While putting it all back together I spotted that the corner panel appears to be screwed on inside the boot aperture. I'd run out of time by that point but if I had unscrewd those screws (and assuming the welds had split all the way down) would the corner panel have come off? It's our only roadworthy vehicle at the moment so I don't want to get stuck with it in bits and no way of getting it back together.

I'm new here too and have a new to me 93 Discovery 3 door with some locking issues, I'll write you a proper reply when I've had a chance to take a front door apart to try and fix my faults. SWMBO loves it though and it's our only roadworthy car at the moment so I'm struggling to borrow it for long enough to fix it.