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zim

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zim last won the day on March 30 2015

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About zim

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    Caring Forum Counsellor

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  • Location
    Offshore Vietnam / Manchester(ish)

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  1. We've got a similar one to what you have above and like you say, it's easy to use. We also have a piece of H beam concreted into the ground, sticking up 4 ft. A LR hub welded to the top with a piece of 2" pipe through the middle. Works the same as the air one above pretty much, but we've got a home made bead breaker that slots around the 2" pipe and is adjustable in height. (the manual air one you have pictured above, will battle to fit a wide wheel in the bead breaker). Similar to this google image : G
  2. I won't be down to the workshop till Friday, but will sort something. G
  3. Do you need any other info Nige? I have a pair of removed 4.6 p38 axles floating around the yard. G
  4. I feel bad. I've still got all the bits in a box.... But same situation of not having a plasma cutter Really should put it together. G
  5. I run my MS (with edis) using the standard crank sensor on the fly wheel. No trigger wheel fitted. Just had to adjust the angle in the settings and from memory, rotate the ring 90 degrees. Search my old posts. G
  6. Hi, I was wondering if someone could tell me. I am possibly looking for a new servo for my series 2a, i have a TD5 servo in my offroad series so i know they fit with cutting. But looking at ebay, the TDCI servo seems to be narrower. Is this the case ? Could someone on here possibly measure the diameter / length of theirs ? Thanks Gordon
  7. If the issue is that is stopping you is that have to change a few cables out.... Then just keep the 3.9. Sorry to be blunt.
  8. Why ? I run a p38 gems 4.6 in my offroader as it came out the RR. (Added my own idle control valve). Just get an aftermarket ECU. G Edit : actually, i do have an older plenum chamber on there for some reason....just trying to think why.
  9. When you drive along, lights are off, put on brakes - it brakes ok, but then lights come on and pump kicks in. (Basically nothing is being stored in the accumulator) If the above is true, then i'd put money on it being the accumulator unit. They're easy to swap. G
  10. Can you measure the heat of the bottom of the radiator where the water is coming out ?
  11. Not on this. You are thinking about later models. This 3.9 will have the thermostat in the housing located on the inlet manifold. Stobbie - do you have an independent gauge fitted where you can read actual water temperature ? Is the fan switching on at the correct temperature ? A thought, was that the sender unit located in your top hose might be causing an issue for some strange reason . We generally fit the the fan sender where you currently have your air con fan switch (we remove air con). Are all 8 cylinders firing ? With thermostat removed have you tried blanking the pipes to your heater matrix (basically no bypass, so all water has to go through the rad) ? How clean is the rad inside ? Gordon
  12. Evening, My cousin currently has an S3 which he fancies a 200 tdi in it. He's been speaking to a company that have recommended putting a 200 engine in, but removing the turbo. Do any of you on here have any opinions on this ? Thanks Gordon
  13. I had the identical problem. First start would always crank, fire then die. Second crank was always fine. Can't remember how i solved it though, sorry G
  14. For the question you asked a few pages ago.... I think that chip out your pulley may have an effect on the belt :p
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