zim
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Posts posted by zim
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On 1/23/2017 at 10:49 PM, Hybrid_From_Hell said:
Oooo please Mr ??????
I won't be down to the workshop till Friday, but will sort something.
G
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Would you like the bracket sent to you ?
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Do you need any other info Nige? I have a pair of removed 4.6 p38 axles floating around the yard.
G
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I feel bad. I've still got all the bits in a box.... But same situation of not having a plasma cutter
Really should put it together.
G
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I run my MS (with edis) using the standard crank sensor on the fly wheel. No trigger wheel fitted. Just had to adjust the angle in the settings and from memory, rotate the ring 90 degrees. Search my old posts.
G
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Hi,
I was wondering if someone could tell me.
I am possibly looking for a new servo for my series 2a, i have a TD5 servo in my offroad series so i know they fit with cutting.
But looking at ebay, the TDCI servo seems to be narrower. Is this the case ? Could someone on here possibly measure the diameter / length of theirs ?
Thanks
Gordon
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My car has the older V belt set up. If I swapped to the serpentine belt the alternator is in a different place for starters, then I would have to change the engine bay loom too.
If the issue is that is stopping you is that have to change a few cables out.... Then just keep the 3.9.
Sorry to be blunt.
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Obviously I would need to swap the sump, front cover and anxillaries as well as the inlet manifold and pleunum chamber from the 3.9 onto the 4.6.
Why ?
I run a p38 gems 4.6 in my offroader as it came out the RR. (Added my own idle control valve).
Just get an aftermarket ECU.
G
Edit : actually, i do have an older plenum chamber on there for some reason....just trying to think why.
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When you drive along, lights are off, put on brakes - it brakes ok, but then lights come on and pump kicks in. (Basically nothing is being stored in the accumulator)
If the above is true, then i'd put money on it being the accumulator unit.
They're easy to swap.
G
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Can you measure the heat of the bottom of the radiator where the water is coming out ?
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The thermostat has two valves in it. One opens flow to the radiator and the other closes off the bypass flow. If you remove the thermostat, then the bypass flow does not get shut off and the flow will not be forced through the radiator.
Not on this. You are thinking about later models. This 3.9 will have the thermostat in the housing located on the inlet manifold.
Stobbie - do you have an independent gauge fitted where you can read actual water temperature ? Is the fan switching on at the correct temperature ? A thought, was that the sender unit located in your top hose might be causing an issue for some strange reason
. We generally fit the the fan sender where you currently have your air con fan switch (we remove air con).Are all 8 cylinders firing ?
With thermostat removed have you tried blanking the pipes to your heater matrix (basically no bypass, so all water has to go through the rad) ?
How clean is the rad inside ?
Gordon
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Evening,
My cousin currently has an S3 which he fancies a 200 tdi in it.
He's been speaking to a company that have recommended putting a 200 engine in, but removing the turbo.
Do any of you on here have any opinions on this ?
Thanks
Gordon
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I had the identical problem. First start would always crank, fire then die. Second crank was always fine.
Can't remember how i solved it though, sorry
G
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For the question you asked a few pages ago.... I think that chip out your pulley may have an effect on the belt
:p-
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Have you got access to a hydraulic puller ?
G
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Buy a landcruiser
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What's the question ?
Will you use the gems pickup ring for MS ? If yes, then you have to leave it...if no, then you can remove it
Simples
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This was a quick google, no idea if it'll help ?
http://www.tauntontrailers.co.uk/knott-avonride-m16--wheel-studs-170-p.asp
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Ditto all the malwauke comment, they're insanely strong ! Or a cheap n cheerful sealey if you're on a budget.
However, i still prefer my IR titanium air gun. Get a quieter compressor
G
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Some good ideas here, thanks.
Agreed - it's when someone walks in and asks you a question mid way through counting.
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That looks perfect Si, only problem is i think it would be cheaper to add a Z scale to the DRO. (Don't think i'm being ungrateful)
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We have a number of spare 404 axle housings if you want one to swap the diff casing to the other side.
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Gents,
I've not got a DRO on the knee of my mill - i know you fit them, as well as cheapy basic things.
But what i'm looking for is a basic "clicker" counter that i can clamp near the handle. But i want it to count as it goes up and subtract as it goes down.
We've been doing some boring lately that's involved moving the knee down 50 turns just to be able to get into the work piece to measure it. We've got a DTI attached so we know where we are but it's easy to loose count when moving the work up / down.
Something like this :
I do need to make one for the dividing head because that's really easy to loose count on where you're up to !
My machine is an Ajax, which is 99% the same as a bridgeport.
G
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Would you like to buy mine ? ?
:p
Tyre changing the manual way
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
We've got a similar one to what you have above and like you say, it's easy to use.
We also have a piece of H beam concreted into the ground, sticking up 4 ft. A LR hub welded to the top with a piece of 2" pipe through the middle. Works the same as the air one above pretty much, but we've got a home made bead breaker that slots around the 2" pipe and is adjustable in height. (the manual air one you have pictured above, will battle to fit a wide wheel in the bead breaker).
Similar to this google image :
G