Leaky40

I replaced one of mine recently as had an issue with it. Definitely replace bearings and seals. I used an aftermarket one and all ok so far, approximately 1,000 miles in. As stated previously buy what you can afford and bear in mind your type of use. Light or abusive.

Well done and congratulations. The elation of beating an issue like this is exhilarating. I had a 2 year issue which I finally solved and it was a wonderful day.

I use one like an Oxford optimiser made by roxter. About £20 last for years and I always use them on my bikes. Not let me down yet and am sure they'll work just as well on Landy. Just seen one practically brand new for sale on gumtree in Norfolk £12?

Thank you, I shall get the o ring ordered and a spare or two just incase and get it stripped down.

I believe it's FRC4951 the o ring that seals the box from leaking into the top housing where the gearstick and diff lock stick is.

Good evening. Can the top part of the r380 gearbox in a 1997 300tdi be removed with the gearbox still in situ. I'm pretty sure the o ring has gone on mine and was hopeing not to have to remove the box from the vehicle.

Hi Les, I was writing my last post then got a call on the landline. Came back the post, finished and posted. Then I see you were there with your reply!!!! I think we all pretty much agree that heat is the enemy of such stuck items.

With your last setup can you get to the bottom of the pulley from the underneath? Perhaps have the puller done up as tight as you can and get underneath and encourage it with a hammer, hammer and bit of wood (less damage to anything hopefully) or some such item. Gently to begin with, a couple of taps then turn it a bit then gently tap then turn it a little bit. Or tap it then turn it 180 degrees and then tap it then turn it 180 degrees and so on. Also whilst it's under stress From the puller use a blow torch with the heat idea as mentioned a few times. I think your at that point now. Angle grinding it as mentioned earlier, down to the crankshaft a thus splitting it to release the tension???? Did this with a rear brake drum/wheel bearing once. I assume from your earlier post you have a spare pulley from your mates donor engine? Fingers crossed for your release!!!!

Just thought, if there was no bolt has it been welded on or something silly??? A puller really should do it!!!!!

There are so many things to try but most may cause other damage!!!!! I.e the persuader!!! , pry bars being carefull not to damage anything else, big thick cold chisel gently tapping round between the engine and the pulley being carefull not to damage crankshaft, heat being carefull not to warp anything or melt anything including seals, copious amounts of penetrating oil/wd40 in case it's rusted in place. Is it held by a woodruff key type thing maybe? A bigger puller as you suggested. Not worked on this particular engine but seems strange not to have a bolt but it is a Land Rover!!!! These are just a couple of suggestions off the top of my head.

Highly likely to be the brushes attached to the regulator/rectifier. Mine was acting the same a couple of years ago. Spent £8 on a replacement on eBay and not had an issue since. It could be another issue but if the bushes are worn or got mud stuck in them they don't contact properly. Easy to replace with a little patience and time. Hope this helps out.

Basic Photos of work done ?

Very similar to this I noticed over the last few months a light tapping noise coming from the top of the engine. I readjusted the valves No end of times but just got worse until it was awful, clattering and banging metal clanking noise pretty loud. It was louder than the turbo and normal peace of the 300tdi!!!! It took forever to work it out but finally I took the valve cover off last week and found the most rear nut on the stud was loose, not even hand tight!!!! I thought it weird but tightened it down but it didn't get properly tight and then realised the stud was getting higher!!!! It had somehow stripped the thread in the head!!!! I helicoil'd it and put it back together and it's now back to normal. 350 miles on and it's still all good and driving spot on. Not sure why it happened but time will tell how good my repair is and wether it was a singular problem or something else causing it.

I've had a chance to take a photo, if this helps at all. Any help appreciated.

Sounds like your going in the right direction. I adjusted mine after buying and fitting a egt and it certainly gives you comfort knowing your not about to melt your engine internals? I got a cheap one of eBay from China I think. It was about £18 and took about a week to come and has been working great since. I did however have trouble with which wires go where but the seller was extremely helpfull? It came with all the wires and I just needed to drill out my egr blanking plate and weld the probe in? It's been in use for 2 years and done approximately 15,000 miles. Mine is now set to hold 60mph uphill with minimal smoke (for a Landy? ) It's a 300tdi 90 on 184,000 miles.