secondjeremy

You have fitted them with the shaft at the top not the bottom? Fit some the wrong way up and they lock solid eventually.

Needle gun is excellent for cleaning - and testing the quality of the metal. Doesn't clog or shoot dirt everywhere and can be got into small corners.

I've had a Clarke straight air die grinder for years - use with carbide burrs its very useful for enlarging holes, shaping metal, removing and grinding welds etc, even for removing ridges from the edge of worn brake drums. Like may other tools use umproves with practice

Doesn't this nut have a left handed thread? Helpfully its a different size to the rear one. I see someone's used a punch on it - I don't think its especially tight - certainly none of those I've undone have been after I realised they were left handed.

You may find loads of bits on e-bay but due to its age be careful to identify what you really need. Many B&S engines have strange inlet VALVE timing to make them easy to start (low compression) - which enables them to use enormous amounts of fuel. So if when you spin it over it seems to have no compression - this is normal. Has it got a spark? Stop position shorts the magneto so make sure that the control isn't in that position. If there's no spark - try cleaning the points. They seem to need the carb flooding to start - it may have a 'tickler' on top of the float chamber - spring loaded button/rod - which should be operated before starting. Later ones have a rubber pump operated by a squeezy bulb which is used to prime the engine when starting.

Trailer and vehicle body fitting manufacturer: https://transport.albertjagger.co.uk/our-products

I can't answer all your questions as I only repair bulkheads, not make them from scratch - and i don't need to interfere with these particular angles - just replace the metal at the ends and around the brackets. However I can say that all Series Land Rovers had crush tubes in the outriggers, not plates welded then bored. The general practice when assembling Land Rovers is to start at the back with the tub - then assemble forward and adjust everything so as to get reasonable straight door gaps, get the door to shut and get the barrel roll/panel tops etc even then tighten it all up. Its not unknown to use things like ratchet straps when aligning bulkheads - but this must be done with caution as if its vertical face isn't correct the (usually bottom) of the front wing is pulled too tight ad the thing will settle after time - and if its plastic - may end up hitting the mud shield - which shows through shiny paint.

I've checked for battery drain with an ordinary multimeter on a lowish voltage setting connected across an indicator bulb. Bulb will protect the meter and the meter measures the voltage drop across the bulb. Modern multimeters are very sensitive - so the sensitivity can be increased if initial readings suggest its not going to be overloaded.

I agree - brake sevo. Socket - looks like some form f radio aerial connection - hook for tying the aerial in position - or a cover for fire equipment . . .

The next question must be 'Is it easier from another European country than UK - and for that matter to get a UK vehicle into another country and then into France.' Strange really as apparently due to the wonderful single market all vehicles are supposed to comply with a common set of build standards - but registering in another country apparently causes problems. No comment!

I had a reason to look at the export of a Land Rover to France - and despite both UK and France being members of the EU it seems as though the regualtions (which may -or their interpretation may vary from place to place) date from the days when anything foreign was treated with suspicion. There are some websites - with titles like exporting your classic to france which are helpful. Also worth checking that a Land Rover is considered as a classic. It has a peculiar place in some of our legistaltion - a special definition of a 'dual purpose' vehicle was created to get it out of commercial vehicle speed limits in the early 50's

Rover's instructions were to smear the leaves with graphite grease when re-assembling - and it seems to have worked well while the stuff was still there. Gaiters or binding may help keep it there. The advantage of graphite is that it leaves a residue on the leaves - so I suppose some modern lubricant working on the same lines could be better - but none springs to mind. Otherwise cleaning the mud off the sides, jacking the vehicle up and spraying from the sides may help. I've had good results dribbling a line of oil on top of the top leaf and letting it drain down the sides and between the leaves when I've been in a hurry.

As well as the things Fridge has pointed out I think the screen mounts are different - which does matter as the defender screen is taller. Fit the wrong one and you'll be forever chasing things that don't fit or can't be fastened in the right place. Most of its the same - I measure off one when repairing Series pillars and they all fit! Some were made for aircon vehicles which don't have the dashboard vents.

I think you'll need the squareish gasket that goes under the handbrake oil catcher as well.

No but Roverdrive was Rover's very own automatic transmission fitted to the P4 105 R. It had something like a torque converter, 2 speed gearbox which provided an emergency low - and an overdrive. The slightly later 3 litre had Borg Warner boxes which were never fitted to the P4.