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About secondjeremy

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  1. The idea is that you thread the band through the split pin and then turn it to tighten the thing up. The other end should be cmpressed between the band and the axle. Works quite well!
  2. So what are you looking for? The ring and screws? All have part numbers but I don't think are available - I've looked for the screws which are 2BA but can't find any at the moment as shortly I'm going to need some.
  3. You can fit small studs easily, remove thread and pull into place with a nut. Nice to recess them into the hub at the back, They are a bit shorter - being intended for the single - ended nut. Larger nuts (27mm spanner size) are available for the 9/16 thread. Paddocks usually display a range on their website.
  4. Later vehicles use a CV cylinder with an attached reservoir for the clutch. Great fun to fill with the bonnet in place! Servo brake models have the reservoir on the cylinder or thereabouts.
  5. I think Paintman paint is classed as synthetic - in which case I've been regularly told that synthetic primer doesn't need an etch. I have painted alloy this way once - with no problems - and don't think it peeled the first time it rained but don't know what happened long term. I use Super*Etch which seems happy on alloy, steel and filler and has the advantage of being a filler as well which means that I can build up coats if necessary at the same time as I etch. (Convenient data:) https://www.express-paints.co.uk/upoxy-super-etch-primer-kit-2-0l/ You do need protection to use it.
  6. Pipework is correct - as are the cylinders. Brake cylinder with nut on the end is a CB (Compression barrel) cylinder, clutch cylinder is a CV cylinder. They do the same job, Rover liked them so much in the mid 60's they fitted one of each - then all CV later on. Bleeding isn't easy due to angles meaning air is trapped. There are instructions in the workshop manual which even suggest raising the front of the vehicle till the cylinder is level,
  7. The regulator itself is usually mounted on the back of the speedo. Yes I know the speedo doesn't need the regulator - but that's where they put it.
  8. So its been standing for some time without being driven? The clutch plate can get stuck to either the flywheel or presser plate by corrosion. Sometimes its possible to get it free by brute force but sometimes there's no alternative to dismantling. Hydraulics - you should feel a very small amount of play at the top of the pedal - then it should get heavier as it operates. Its important that the pedal returns properly and freely for the system to function properly.
  9. The sensor functions as a variable resistor - operated no-doubt by a diaphragm & spring or something - so the thing will earth through that. It'll need an ignition-controlled supply - which can be taken from something convenient - its probably considered to be an extra and so relatively universal in fitting - and so uses a full 12 volt supply (as opposed to the 10 volt supply for the later fuel and temperature gauge) - but have a good look at the case to see if it says anything. I'm sure the sensor side must be wired completely separately from the warning light. The light is an entirely separate circuit which can be connected in parallel to the other panel lights. (Possible query about overloading but I don't think that'll be a problem on an otherwise standard vehicle)
  10. If it is the shaft it may be worth fitting new ones - by the time you've bought the UJ's, got the thing apart, found the splined joint isn't reallly as good as you'd like, re-assembled it and fitted it new hardy Spicer shafts complete don't seem that bad. (eg) https://www.lrdirect.com/STC121-Propshaft-Front-Swb/?keep_https=yes https://www.lrdirect.com/FRC4907-Propshaft-Rear-Swb/?keep_https=yes https://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-series-2-and-3/propshaft.html
  11. Series speedos all have the same drive gears in the gearbox - the difference being in the head. SWB on 600 x 16 - or 205 x 16 have speedos with 1500 or 1536 Turns Per Mile, LWB's etc on 750 x 16's have 1408 and there are some others like 1376 or something for larger tyres. The early S2 gearbox has a cut groove for 2 parts of a circlip to be inserted to keep the parts in place. later on (1964???) Rover changed the shaft for an 'improved' version that looks much stouter. In fact they may well have improved its snapping ability as they frequently snap at the 'reverse' end - where the shaft changes diameter. Most of us who use lathes were taught that such a cut should be radiused to reduce stress - so Rover cut it square with a very sharp corner - and guess where it snaps. Having said that from the boxes I've dismantled I'd say the true enemy is the springs in the 3rd/4th synchro unit (RTC1956) - which fall out when old and soft. I'd suggest that if you have box apart for any reason that you change these springs as a preventative measure. (They are a flat metal 'leaf' - and when they come out they tend to get between the gear teeth - which may be enough to break the layshaft.) For an appreciation of the layshaft problem have a look at the old S2 club website where the subject was discussed by some apparently very knowlegeable people.
  12. What's happening to the throttle and its linkage?
  13. '71 should have an all-synchro box with the later transfer box. The number will be on the top front of the transfer box arm and there should not be any number on the gearbox itself - which means that you can dismantle the gearbox and find its a different model to what you think it is! (There are 4 types of S3 main box - identified by suffix letters - A - D)
  14. I'd suggest that you make up a wooden corner jig - possibly with a 5/8 guide for welding up the corners. You can use magnets - but I find them fiddly and awkward - hence slow - and everything moves when you clamp the earth on - which has by now fallen off and you've got to align it all again. With the wooden jig - simply fit the rails, butt them up and clamp in place. Guide rails on the jig might help get everything flat. Wood will do especially if you only use it for tacking up.
  15. How old is the vehicle? Does it have an early transfer box? {Early (pre about 1963) suffer from wear of the transfer box intermediate gear shaft and roller bearings. Its relatively easy to cure - the box doesn't have to come out - problem is that the bearings are virtually unobtainable although the shaft was available. If it wears the thing tends to howl when driven - the noise rising with vehicle speed. The noise will seem to be coming from the centre seat. Land Rover cured the problem by massively increasing the size of most of the shaft and the roller bearings - which unusually for Rover - worked. Bits for the later box are relatively cheap. You can't fit later parts to an earlier box.} Using low ratio means that the gear at the back of the intermediate shaft is used as well as the front one. 2WD uses the front gear only.
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