secondjeremy

I think some have 2 similar holes for the brake light switch. The second hole was a form of pad wear indicator - it was a second switch which operated when the pedal travel became excessive. It was linked in with the PDWA and the low vacuum warning light. Are you using the correct hole?

Yes transmission stayed with BSF fastenings from 80in to the end. To separate - handbrake backplate must come off - remove drum and drive flange - linkage to handbrake and 4 bolts in the centre of the backplate. Now remove the transfer arm bottom cover, then the intermediate shaft - remove plate and lever out. Gear and thrust washers will now fall out - be careful - its sharp. take off gear at the back of the mainshaft and 3 nuts are revealed - undo them and the external ones and the transfer box should fall off.

4 - 6 cylinder boxes. Leaving aside the 1 tonne box the 6 cylinder has a different gear lever. There are 2 bellhousing bolt patterns - one for ioe engines - 1.6, 2.0, amd 6 cylinder and another for OHV engines. Then there's the larger layshaft bearings of the later S2/2a boxes Then the S3 clutch cylinders - avaiable for both types of bellhousing.

You've got a water trap - its the bottom of the filter housing - that's carefully constructed so you can't assemble it without a filter. There's even a tap to let the water out.

The only torque figure for that nut is that in the overdrive instructions. There is none given in any of the series workshop manuals. The nut frequently works loose!

Must be - its got checkerplate!

85 lb ft. You only need to remove the flange then lever the seal out and replace. No other dismantling needed - even on the early axles with the alloy housing bolted on.

Are you sure you've got the nut off the stud in the centre at the bottom of the bellhousing? You wouldn't be the first to forget it! Is that a Santana gearbox? (Ribbed casing)

When they get slack its possible to move the splined part up and down. Grease can mask the wear for a while.

Hole is for the old Lucas 5 pin rubber socket - which really became obsolete in the mid 60's with the advent of the continental style 7 pin system. This originally provided an auxilliaries supply for the caravan/trailer - but this was nicked for the rear foglight. In turn the Lucas 5 pin socket repalced a similar 3 pin job when indicators were fitted to trailers. It looked like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-1-LUCAS-5-PIN-SOCKET-AND-CABLE-230441-TLC5-TRAILER-LIGHT-NOS-/162560400058?epid=18003628130&hash=item25d95adaba:g:8KIAAOSwrfVZSUV9

I'm 5ft 10 - so not huge - and the top of the windscreen was close to obstructing my view in my S3 with the pointless factory seat adjusters (Tray which raises the base by about 1 inch) Lets put it this way - no way did I need sun visors.

Will you be able to see out or will the top of the screen restrict your view? Remember Rover raised the top of the screen on the 90's / 110.

I thought the selectors were brass?

The white smoke is unburnt fuel - so why isn't it burning? It can be due to incorrect pump timing or a worn injection pump or injectors. Low engine compression can also cause the problem. Low compression is usually due to bore wear - and the engines tend to blow oil out everywhere so as the engine looks clean its unlikely to be the problem.

Don't under estimate the amount of condensation you can get. If you've got a van - bodied SWB with no lining you'll find on damp days that when you first put the brakes on (which will snatch slightly as the drums have rusted) you will get a shower of water over your legs. What happens is that the condensation on the roof runs forwrd, the droplets get bigger until - over your legs - they get so big they fall - on you.