secondjeremy

You have fitted them with the shaft at the top not the bottom? Fit some the wrong way up and they lock solid eventually.

Needle gun is excellent for cleaning - and testing the quality of the metal. Doesn't clog or shoot dirt everywhere and can be got into small corners.

I've had a Clarke straight air die grinder for years - use with carbide burrs its very useful for enlarging holes, shaping metal, removing and grinding welds etc, even for removing ridges from the edge of worn brake drums. Like may other tools use umproves with practice

Doesn't this nut have a left handed thread? Helpfully its a different size to the rear one. I see someone's used a punch on it - I don't think its especially tight - certainly none of those I've undone have been after I realised they were left handed.

You may find loads of bits on e-bay but due to its age be careful to identify what you really need. Many B&S engines have strange inlet VALVE timing to make them easy to start (low compression) - which enables them to use enormous amounts of fuel. So if when you spin it over it seems to have no compression - this is normal. Has it got a spark? Stop position shorts the magneto so make sure that the control isn't in that position. If there's no spark - try cleaning the points. They seem to need the carb flooding to start - it may have a 'tickler' on top of the float chamber - spring loaded button/rod - which should be operated before starting. Later ones have a rubber pump operated by a squeezy bulb which is used to prime the engine when starting.

Trailer and vehicle body fitting manufacturer: https://transport.albertjagger.co.uk/our-products

I can't answer all your questions as I only repair bulkheads, not make them from scratch - and i don't need to interfere with these particular angles - just replace the metal at the ends and around the brackets. However I can say that all Series Land Rovers had crush tubes in the outriggers, not plates welded then bored. The general practice when assembling Land Rovers is to start at the back with the tub - then assemble forward and adjust everything so as to get reasonable straight door gaps, get the door to shut and get the barrel roll/panel tops etc even then tighten it all up. Its not unknown to use things like ratchet straps when aligning bulkheads - but this must be done with caution as if its vertical face isn't correct the (usually bottom) of the front wing is pulled too tight ad the thing will settle after time - and if its plastic - may end up hitting the mud shield - which shows through shiny paint.

I've checked for battery drain with an ordinary multimeter on a lowish voltage setting connected across an indicator bulb. Bulb will protect the meter and the meter measures the voltage drop across the bulb. Modern multimeters are very sensitive - so the sensitivity can be increased if initial readings suggest its not going to be overloaded.

I agree - brake sevo. Socket - looks like some form f radio aerial connection - hook for tying the aerial in position - or a cover for fire equipment . . .

The next question must be 'Is it easier from another European country than UK - and for that matter to get a UK vehicle into another country and then into France.' Strange really as apparently due to the wonderful single market all vehicles are supposed to comply with a common set of build standards - but registering in another country apparently causes problems. No comment!

I had a reason to look at the export of a Land Rover to France - and despite both UK and France being members of the EU it seems as though the regualtions (which may -or their interpretation may vary from place to place) date from the days when anything foreign was treated with suspicion. There are some websites - with titles like exporting your classic to france which are helpful. Also worth checking that a Land Rover is considered as a classic. It has a peculiar place in some of our legistaltion - a special definition of a 'dual purpose' vehicle was created to get it out of commercial vehicle speed limits in the early 50's

Rover's instructions were to smear the leaves with graphite grease when re-assembling - and it seems to have worked well while the stuff was still there. Gaiters or binding may help keep it there. The advantage of graphite is that it leaves a residue on the leaves - so I suppose some modern lubricant working on the same lines could be better - but none springs to mind. Otherwise cleaning the mud off the sides, jacking the vehicle up and spraying from the sides may help. I've had good results dribbling a line of oil on top of the top leaf and letting it drain down the sides and between the leaves when I've been in a hurry.

As well as the things Fridge has pointed out I think the screen mounts are different - which does matter as the defender screen is taller. Fit the wrong one and you'll be forever chasing things that don't fit or can't be fastened in the right place. Most of its the same - I measure off one when repairing Series pillars and they all fit! Some were made for aircon vehicles which don't have the dashboard vents.

I think you'll need the squareish gasket that goes under the handbrake oil catcher as well.

No but Roverdrive was Rover's very own automatic transmission fitted to the P4 105 R. It had something like a torque converter, 2 speed gearbox which provided an emergency low - and an overdrive. The slightly later 3 litre had Borg Warner boxes which were never fitted to the P4.

I used cheap migs for years - thinking I'd save my money until I could get a decent AC/DC Tig. Lots of frustration due to the inconsistency of the cheap Migs - the thing would weld beautifully one day - next day would spit and pop and produce rubbish results. Then the last one failed - and friend persuaded me to go to a proper welding supplier - who had an ex-hire NewArc Mig (NewArc no longer make migs unfortunately) - and what a difference - consistent results, remarkably low amp welding . . . . So decent kit all the time - which puts the AC/DC tig further away as I only have a single phase electric supply and the low-powered ones go for more. Worth having a look at https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ Tutorials, examples of jobs and machinery problems all discussed

It always makes sense to join 2 separate circuits with a safety device - which itself can leak to the outside world. What warning will it give you? Its operated by a shuttle valve which operates the switch. The shuttle valve will only move when there's a greater pressure on one side than the other, ie when there's a leak from one circuit. However its got to be quite major to be operated - a slightly weepy cylinder won't leak enough to operate it. The thing was introduced to Land Rovers initially with the optional split circuit system - which I think was compulsory on many diesels - in that they were the only ones available. That system is a bit different to the post 1980 system - which splits the front brakes with a junction at the back of the front crossmember rather than making the split on the PDWA. This is the difference between a 4 and a 5 port device.

I had to sort one on a similar vehicle many years ago. The problem with this vehicle was that it had started life as petrol and been fitted with a diesel engine, with the petrol wiring beng retained. I seem to remember working out that a relay was used to provide power to the warning light when the key was turned, the problem being that the diesel turned off much of the electrics when the key was turned. The problem is that Rover were reluctant to provide wiring diagrams for anything after about 1972. I seem to remember finding what I needed in the lightweight diagram which was a bit curius as they were all petrol.

Have you stripped the splined joint in the propshaft? Have you got an overdrive? {The clutch connecting it to the gearbox can strip} Transfer box seldom gives trouble. S2/2a gearboxes can suffer from broken layshafts but S3 all-synchro are different. If the layshaft snaps the thing can still be driven in top - moving off in low ratio. (Test - don't drive far.)

Any computer experts who can convert ABS into traction control?

I've got a nice blue peugeot one here waiting for me to it it. £2 from e-bay - so I'd measure yours and see if you can find one there - it may be necessary to drill a hole in it for the tube.

Many years ago I had a S2a with a side-hung rear tailgate with a S3 hinge on it - only problem was that the pin would drop out. Trouble is the thing measure 7mm and at that time I hadn't got a lathe and couldn't knurl things. It probably ended up with a 1.4 in bolt and nut I'm sure the pin drives in.

So Beridale - what type of gearbox do you have - why do I ask? S2/2a non - synchro box is very different in respect of 1st and 2nd to a S3 all-synchro box. Knowing the suffix letter would also be helpful. Problem is that for S3 boxes the number for the main box is stamped on the front of the transfer case - so sometimes when dismantling a S3 box the forst challenge is to work out which one it is.

Where is your rear silencer?

Doesn't the oil temperature sender need to be in moving oil - rather than for example a dead end like a pressure gauge adaptor - otherwise the temperature its going to measure is going to be the temperature of whatever heat conducts through the metal.