secondjeremy
-
Posts
505 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by secondjeremy
-
-
Interesting to read the position as seen by the FBHVC (who've done a good job when similar examples of 'banana straightening' have been threatened before.
http://fbhvc.co.uk/2012/08/23/eu-roadworthiness-testing/
Who knows - perhaps the whole orifice will collapse to a free trade area soon.
-
I think it was £30 when I last had one done.
-
Yes but is the answer.
Windscreen mounts are different - easiest to keep S2a windscreen with bulkhead - S3 ones are not on the end but the face of the bulkhead.
Wiring will be different - S3 loom would need some adaption to fit - its wired for alternators and has fuses under the steering column.
Heater - optional self contained units on S2a - S3 is integrated with plenum chamber/distribution box in black crash padding .
Different door restrainers.
Otherwise its the same size in critical places - floor panels are interchangeable - later S3 have different arrangement for clutch cover/transmission tunnel front - no fixed return panel - it screws on.
Just about anything's better than that S3 black plastic!
Are you getting rid of the S3 plastic grill at the same time?
-
200 or 300 TDi only have a stop solenoid electrical connection don't they?
(apart from temp and oil pressure warning sensors)
-
My Wicks cheapy which I bought for £30 about 15 years ago is still going strong. Freely admit that most are better /slower/more powerful/quieter - and won't say that 'Nothing's better' - but its better than nothing.
-
Rover only supplied the diesel crank as a spare - presumably to avoid the temptation the use the (Cheaper) cast crank in the diesel.
I'm sure many have been ground undersize.
I think the 5 bearing petrol and diesel use the same crank - probably cast which works as the techniques have improved over the years.
-
Got a Bearmach reverse gear the other day - looks very nice and comes complete with bearings. Seems to work fine too - admittedly its early days yet.
-
Or catches you out when you remove the drum, check everything carefully and decide its all OK and the linings will do until the next service - then find the adjuster goes round when you re-assemble it!
-
Of course the original adjusters were the right size for riveted shoes. With modern bonded shoes they rotate when there's still plenty of lining there. I suppose this is a safety feature and linings aren't that expensive.
-
Who says cheap bearings are rubbish? I've spent far too long on these boards but never come across anyone saying that a cheap bearing has failed or didn't fit or was slack, Nor for that matter have I found a cheap one in a box that I've dismantled that has failed. All the bearings that I've found severely worn have been genuine - and yes the boxes have been either abused or well worn.
I know the Britpart layshaft back bearing doesn't look very pretty but that's due to the cage and that's probably exclusive to that application and specially made. When I did fit one it went in OK and sounded fine.
I'm wondering if we're stressing unnecessarily and there are better things that we could be spending the cash on - like beer?
-
You may find some useful stuff here:
http://www.series2club.info/forum/index.php?board=44.0
I'd have said its unusual in having the deep sills - and may be one of the last fitted with them. Round edged bonnets were fitted to Station Wagons as a matter of course (may have been LWB as well.)
In about 1967 the things went to negative earth which went with the black instrument panel and the deletion of the ammeter and its replacement by a temperature gauge (Different loom - so not just a matter of choice) Headlamps went to the wings in about 1969 - and the thin sills may have gone with headlamps in the wing.
-
Might be worth your while having a really good look at this forum - especially with regard to SIP welders.
-
The S1 brakes were essentially the same as the standard system used on S3's up to 1980 - when various changes were made probably to reduce the number of variations available.
I'm driving a 1978 diesel with overdrive every day at the moment - and its brakes are fine. It does have a factory fitted servo which is nice - and is a split system which makes no difference to the performance.
If you've got a big engine then something better may be needed. A remote servo would be easy to add later. I'd leave the thing as standard and get the vehicle on the road and then see how I got on.
After all your S1 will produce 52 BHP - the S2 2.25 produced about 77 BHP which is about half as much again! Apart from new pedal linkage and a different (same size) master cylinder the braking system is the same.
Its very easy to get carried away with planned 'improvements' to old vehicles. Actually getting them rebuilt and working is a big enough challenge. Making changes often causes unexpected problems - install something non - standard and later you find something else doesn't fit for example.
Old vehicles worked nicely and reliably in their original spec.
-
Bronze green S2's had bronze green wheels - other colours had limestone. Many bronze green LR's have limestone wheels simply because they are later wheels or off another vehicle.
-
Assuming your chassis is nice and straight with all its brackets in the right place the thing should be built up from the back - ie rear tub first - then loosely fit the bulkhead then the doors. You now jiggle around with the bulkhead and doors to get the best shut lines you can.
Door hinges must not be worn - a small amount of slack will throw the whole thing off. Its possible to punch out the hinge pin and put a washer in to tighten things a bit.
There's a little slack in the bulkhead front supports, and Rover used shims between them and the footwells. Replacing the captive bolts will help especially around the steering box. The shims were alloy or steel plates to fit under 2 bolts - and the bolt holes were slots to allow the things to be inserted after the bolts were fitted loosely.
I find a die-grinder comes in useful for elongating hinge fixings on the bulkhead.
Getting the screen parallel with the doortop is a doddle on a S3 as the screen fitting is sandwiched between 2 bolts. S2's only have the top bolt - so can fall too far back.
I find it best to fit the galvanising before attempting to line everything up and if you're using new doors check the skin doesn't project beyond the steel top rail under the galvanising ((I wonder who made that door!)
Things like ratchet straps may help if you're doing the job on your own.
-
Back one is easy, front more difficult. Back - drain, pull half shafts, remove propshaft, remove old diff, fit new, re-assemble. Front you've got to remove the complete swivel/hub. If you're careful as you've only got to disengage the half shafts you may be able to leave the brakes connected.
Diffs will affect high and low ratios, and the speedometer which will grossly underread.
-
Try the Series 1 club
-
The release bearing ONLY bears on the clutch withdrawal plate or the end of the diaphragm fingers depending on installation. Accordingly it makes no difference if the rest of the transmission is in gear or out of gear.
They usually moan or grind when the pedal is depressed - and can carry on for their entire life making noises occasionally if they are the S3 type.
-
If the box is noisy then its bearing wear allowing the gears to mesh incorrectly.
My S3 109 dropped out of 1st and 2nd on the overrun - and was cured when I tightened the nut on the back of the mainshaft. From the state of the nut it had been tightened with a punch. I could see it move slightly with the lock washer engaged.
Interestingly Rover don't state a torque figure for this nut. The 100 lb ft is the figure given in the Fairey Overdrive installation instructions.
-
Some shock absorbers work in one direction only - I think Rover P6 were only supposed to work on rebound. I'm not convinced that ordinary Land Rover ones aren't stiffer in one direction but haven't carried out a definitive test - I'm normally just happy to get the things fitted!
Interestingly Land Rover slant the back ones but the front ones are straight. I'd have thought that with a leaf spring a slanting action would deflect the spring a bit which could interfere with the steering - and with a link system it would move the axle due to compliance in the bushes.
-
I think there's some black magic amongst chassis engineers about shock absorber positioning. I think the early Range Rover had one mounted ahead of the axle and one behind - which I think was considered a trick to reduce axle tramp. Other similar Rover vehicles don't have this feature - so it must have been considered a success!
I'd have thought diagonal mounting reduced the rate but may have advantages in allowing greater suspension travel.
-
Both seem to suffer from the 3rd/4th synchro springs falling out and getting between the gear teeth. S3's seem to chip and break gear teeth on the layshaft.
I wonder if the thicker 'improved' S2a layshaft snaps better than the earlier one with the circlip groove cut into it?
-
I've got the Clarke (MM) air over hydraulic riveter (one that looks a bit like a spray gun). Its working very nicely and consumes very little air (but needs about 90psi). I've used an oil-less one (not Clarke) which was prone to snatch when the rivet broke (and caused a couple of problems as I was using it on a freshly painted vehicle at the time. The air over hydraulic type must be slightly slower which prevents the snatch.
Just remember to make sure the rivet shaft drops out after each rivet is pulled - and you'll avoid jams.
-
Reverse is a pair of gears (2 back to back) which slides on its own shaft, one gear engaging with first on the mainshaft and the other with 1st on the layshaft.
So if 1st is quiet (its not as quiet as 2nd as its straight - cut) then the main and layshaft bearings are OK . The mainshaft gear remains in its neutral position when reverse is engaged.
The reverse gear bearing is a bronze sleeve. If this wears only the reverse gear will be affected (unless it breaks.)
As an observation I'd say that reverse does tend to be quite noisy, and that the small 1st gear on the layshaft can wear severely.
How concerned you should be will to some extent depend on how much you use reverse. If you only use it generally when parking on flattish ground it won't wear much. If you reverse miles - then it will.
Reverse caused loads of problems with transmissions during the 70's - even S3 land Rover ones were beefed up. Some of the problem were people like Police reversing long distances down motorway hard shoulders.
Stupid question, about ignition switch.
in Series Forum
Posted
I confirm its for some /all auxiliaries - up to you if you use it. Handy of you like the radio on without the engine running for example