secondjeremy

If your existing windows are sound but dull it may be worth having a search for perspex cleaning or something. There seem to be a number of techniques and products - some may be suitable for you. Its going to become more of a problem looking at some of the very elaborate clear plastic fittings on cars that are going cloudy.

Windows - are originally Perspex - which is now known as acrylic sheet. Builders merchants like Wicks (used to) stock it - take the channel (or lower bit) out and put new perspex in. You can probably use polycarbonate sheet if you prefer. The channel is narrower than that used on S2's - http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-290-single-track.aspx

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=083&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Heaters+%26+Electrical+Fans&agCode=0205&agName=Circular+Heaters

Hang on: The flat spring is RTC 1956 and is from the 3rd/4th synchroniser - at the front of the box. The loose brass rings are the 1st/2nd synchroniser parts. The metal ring (oil thrower) comes off the sleeve. Simply press it off carefully. A common cause of the box slipping out of 1st and 2nd is the nut on the back of the mainshaft working loose - especially if it wasn't tightened properly - especially after fitting overdrive.

Jason - As its a compressor I'd think that the consumption is the same on mains and 12 volts as I can't imagine the compressor motor would function on anything less than full power especially when starting. The fridge I refer to is an ammonia fridge which simply heats water/ammonia mix - with the ammonia taking in heat as it dissolves in water again. This allows the unit to function on gas as well as the power simply heats liquid.

I think your cam lobes are very worn. 4 cylinder ones are generally much 'lumpier' than that. You can only gap new or freshly filed points effectively. the reason is that as the engine runs the sparking across the points caries metal from one to the other - so that one point gets a lump on it and the other - a crater. At the very least the 'lump' must be removed so that you can get an accurate gap. As has been stated the points gap determines the 'dwell' but in itself this isn't desperately important on a 4 cylinder - as after all the same coil and basic setup worked well on V8's - which of course have twice the number of sparks. It is however a useful check that you've got the points set correctly. The spark occurs as the points open. The close up with wear - so the spark becomes retarded.

Is the wattage the same on mains as it is on 12 volts? I ask as my My Electrolux camping fridge is something like 120 watts on mains but only 72 watts on 12 volts - (6amps) and really will only maintain itself on this voltage rather than cool down rapidly. This means that in warm weather I can expect it to run most of the time on 12 volts which is no problem when its in the car with the engine running but I have to be careful if leaving it in the car (especially if I don't have a Jump Start with me!)

S3 have a lovely plastic clip which holds the cable into the head - and it breaks - worth having a good look - taking the cable out and seeing if the inner cable is turning properly - or can be twisted when its fully home - ie slipping at the bottom or gearbox end. If all seems well there - the worm drive gear on the output shaft can slip - take the propshaft of the output flange on the handbrake and check the nut in the centre is done up to 85 lb ft.

Striker is hitting the bottom of the second latch 'box' - so adjust to lift the back of the door and it should shut properly. You can get new ball and shaft for S2/2a doors but for S3 you'll have to buy new hinges if they're worn (or make a new pin - its an odd size with splines to hold it in place)

They are definitely BSF threads - 7/16in I think.

Sometimes all the oil drains from the bores - leaving the rings dry. A drop or 2 of oil down each plug hole may magically restore some compression and let the engine function normally. In fact vigorous pumping of the throttle can shoot loads of petrol into the engine which will wash the oil from the bores. Same cure. Oil will burn off harmlessly when the engine fires.

The wiring well be very different to a 2a - where even indicators were optional It can be done - I had a 2a with Montego stalks on it - but if you're phased by electrics - don't do it. I assume you have the flexible drive wipers with the motor behind the cover at the end of the dash. If you haven't and have the 2 separate motors - the wipers will be a waste of time as the separate motors don't self park and all you'll be able to control is on and off. Converting to the later system isn't that easy either. (S3 ones come out of the bulkkhead top rather than the screen - not sure about late 2a.)

The sensor held in by 3 bolts is the 'Otter' switch which is part of the choke warning light system. Land Rover use a sophisticated choke warning light system with a switch on the control itself or the cable (depending on model) and the temperature switch (otter switch' in the cylinder head. The warning light therefore only comes on when the 'Otter' switch operates at about 50 degrees. So try the cable on the other sensor (which should be somewhere round the thermostat) and see what happens.

Lack of insurance could be that the insurance company haven't bothered to put it on the system or have made a mistake in doing so. I had trouble taxing one vehicle on its return to the road even though it was covered by my traders policy and I had notified the insurer at least a week before when it went for the MOT. So insurers are still at it - quick enough to take your money but reluctant to do the rest and blaming everyone else. I just carry the certificate with me now. perhaps that's why this year's certificate came nicely laminated!

If you search the internet you'll find a copy of the installation instructions for the Fairey overdrive. You'll need a new locking washer for the nut on the back of the mainshaft - its special - if you use an ordinary one the overdrive will not go right home as the unused 'ears' are too long. Alternatively trim a little off them and all will be well. The nut on the mainshaft MUST be done up to 100 lb ft and locked - if its not it will come loose and the gearbox will start jumping out of gear generally on the overrun. The instructions will help you cut the hole in the transmission tunnel for the lever in the right place. By the time you've measured it all and cut the hole this will probably take longer than fitting the overdrive itself.

Is the 2nd item listed here what you're looking for? http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/sleeving/tape.php

I think its almost certainly brakes - possibly a sticking trailing piston on one of the back brakes. Its worth jacking up one wheel ad turning it backwards and seeing what happens - then trying the other. You'll have individual adjusters for each shoe. Its also possible that the shoe is jamming in the bottom clamp arrangement holding the shoes in place. The ends of the linings should be chamfered (cut back at 45 degrees or more) to prevent the shoes being picked up by the drum and pulled on. I had a mysterious back brake problem on my 109 - when one brake would bind on after being adjusted tight. After much confusion I took the shoes out to find a wear groove in the adjuster pin which looked to have been worn by the snail cam. Adjust - cam sat in groove - apply brakes and cam sat on unworn section! If it were handbrake I'd expect the gearbox (and lever) to jump around and if it was gearbox internal problem I'd expect noise (which could go on for years) and more seriously - jumping out of reverse.

They're behind the alloy on 80 inch and S3 and are on 86 S1.

Assuming negative earth for the vehicle. The battery will be earthed to the chassis and or engine. The Low tension ignition circuit will be battery + to coil (+ terminal), coil (-) to distributor - then the distributor is earthed in turn to the engine - return to battery by earth strap. Offhand I can't be sure if the coil body should be earthed - it normally is by its mountings onto the bulkhead - its only for HT purposes so if its loose then resting it on metal will probably do. If its mounted normally on the bulkhead and the engine AND chassis are earthed (as normal) you can forget this point. A switch somewhere is a good idea so you can turn the thing off. If you have an alternator it MUST not run without a load - it will destroy itself. Either connect it properly or take the belt off. A dynamo shouldn't come to any harm if the control box is functioning properly. Are the points opening to a proper gap?

I use a pump-up type of garden sprayer with a bit of hose (actually I think its electrical sleeving) on the end of the lance just to get it through the filler hole and allow me to rest the lance itself while it does the job. Pump it up then control the thing with the valve on the lance (which locks on)

I don't think there'll be much left to produce phosgene when its dried and the vapour has cleared. In any event a Mig will tend to blow vapour away from the actual welding.

The front piston is moved by the fluid between the 2 pistons - which operates the back (in cylinder terms) circuit. The springs are weak and really serve just to keep everything in the right place - after all with a servo on the back and say 70lb on the pedal, a mechanical advantage of say 4:1 on the pedal mechanism and a 1.9:1 servo you're looking at about 530 lb push on the piston. (These are not accurate figures - just approximations)

I think its only necessary to loosen some of the clips - and the leaves can be slid out lengthways. I seem to remember doing a set this way - but they may have had bolt-type clamps as well.

I think you'll have to put up with it - I think its endemic. What causes it I don't know - may be something to do with the rather heavy flywheels Land Rover use, slack in the whole system due to the design - but they do it in top so this seems unlikely. As my S3 diesel does it it can't be the sheer brute power of the things. As petrol have different mountings to diesels it seems unlikely to be much to do with them, very early S2 LWB diesels had a small flywheel bolted onto the handbrake drum - which was forgotten about later - it was described as a damper - what it did I don't know. These would have been the infamous 2 litre diesel.

They do tend to seem to chatter and surge at very low revs. I first noticed this is a S2a fitted with a Prima diesel and 3.54 diffs - which wouldn't really run at 30 MPH in 4th. There was nothing wrong with the gearbox as I'd just rebuilt it with a new layshaft and many other parts and otherwise it functioned perfectly. As confirmation my S3 diesel (standard transmission) does much the same at around 15 MPH in top but is Ok above that. Its not really noticeable as its quite pointless running the thing that slow in 4th as to get it to move you've got to change down to 2nd. The transmission on this vehicle is nice and quiet and changes gear properly. If its dropping out of gear it may be worth dropping the top and rear covers off the transfer box and making sure the nut on the back of the mainshaft is really tight (100lb ft) On most if not all the boxes I've dismantled its been loose. It holds the mainshaft in position as well as locating the individual components on the shaft and if loose they can run up and down the shaft - which may cause it to drop out of gear.