RR370

Yeah! hahahah I remember doing that with mini's etc. Ah the good old days! was quite funny to be working with carbs after a 10year break!!

Well I finally fitted those hedman headers, got a new 2.5" system made and got the RR through the Costa Rica MOT type test. I had the screw up the mixture screws so the engine was running on vapours to pass! but once it did I backed off the mixture. I have now the headers and K+N cone airfilters on each carb. What I notice is good bottom end power until around 4000rpm when the engine starts the split and cough, pulling the choke out seems to help so I figure I need to change the needles in the carbs. Anyone done a similar set up and can recommend which needle from standard to use?

Just goes to show "G" string undies stretch a long way!

The Headers are for right hand drive! Summit racing do not mention this and you would think seeing as they are in the USA they would sell left hand drive headers. Anyway lifting the block off the engine mounts about 2" gave me enough to clear the brake servo/booster. then the header fitted OK. Of course it did not line up with the original exhaust but I'm changing that anyway so that's not important but maybe for some folks.

Jeff, I checked the part number with another forum and it's correct. It's a this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hedman-3980...sspagenameZWDVW from Summit racing. The right side looking form the front hits the chassis and block were the 4 pipes go to one. I need about another 2cm to clear. The other side I didn't try yet. Plus now it's raining hard so I can't do the work as the car is outside and it's dark when I get home. I'm going to try again at the weekend. So did the headers make a difference in performance? what carb are you running?

Anyone fitted them to a 83 V8 RR left hand drive? I tried last night but no way without raising the engine.

I started to fit the tbular manifold last night. The origninal cast manifold was fitted with no gaskets and were of different designs left and right. Maybe this is normal but looked strange to me. Any comment on what cast manifolds should be there? also I have a tubular manifold for a V8 LR will this fit the RR?

Well than was an experience last night. I've worked on the 83 RR for months, got it running really well and it failed on the CO level. should be 4.6% but was 10.0% Their test is similar to the UK MOT but the sniffer test is only at idle with no rollers test. I didn't have a timing light or CO tester to check before so I took pot luck and lost. They also said my exhaust was too much noise...hahahah So I've worked with SU/Stombergs for years but I'm always willing to learn more. Any tips? My exhaust is a mish mash of different pipes so I have a tubular manifold and system to fit which should help. I also have K+N cone filters on the carbs as the filter box was damaged. I guess the carbs are worn a little but if I can get them to give a good figure at idle that's all I need. Thanks

Phil, Just the info I need. I'm stuck with US parts unless I go order from the UK which works out very expensive. If I get from Costa Rica it's even more!! So my understanding is the retaining pins that run through the calipers are bigger on the 87's on? could I use my pins and machine a spacer insert? I adapted the 91 steering box so a little extra work is fine.. Failing that I will have to get them from the UK. Thanks for your help.

I have KC daylighters and Hella's plus 100/80 H4 headlight bulbs on my RRC. Try Ebay for used Hella's/Cibie's and other lights. http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...o%3D2&fgtp= http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...p=32&fsoo=2 I've rallied with Cibie oscars and KC daylighters with good results.

I have a 1983 RRC with solid disks all round. Do the 87 upwards vented disk pads fit? I ask this because my car is in Costa Rica and I live in the USA. The RRC only came into the US in 87. Thanks

Yes that's mine!! except mine is falling apart and is very dirty. The other one looks like the US version minus the cruise controls. Actually I prefer one like in your photo. Thanks for the information.

Just an up-date of the rebuild of my 4 door 83 RR based in Costa Rica. I fitted a US 91 steering box which required some pipe work redesign but now it works. I modified the seals which now don't leak...A first? Then there were all the silly electrical issues and sticking doors. Fitted some rally spot lamps. Fixed the front crank seal oil leak. The swivel pins leaked bad. So as suggested here I checked for play and they seemed fine. I reviewed the removal proceedure and figured just remove the caliper and pipes then un-doing the 5 axle end bolts and pulling out the half shaft would be quick way to change the seal. Took me around 45mins a side. Now no leaks. Engine runs good now with added K+N filters. I wanted to change the front lenses but the US lenses are different and all amber. So I'm taking the lenses home to modify them to accept the US amber units. Oh I bought some 245/70-16 tyes which was better than the Kojak ones I had on. Next month it should be ready to do the Costa Rica MOT type test. Anyone know if an 91 steering wheel will fit a 83? Yeah for a laugh I painted the whole of the roof with the union jack!!!

Streaky, I'd love to do it and would jump at the offer but sadly ...well sort of I work 2 weeks in the states and 2 weeks in Costa Rica. Experience wise I've rallied and built my own rally cars since 1989 . Done national and international events. I drive and do my own service....which is a chalendge. At present I'm rebuilding an 1983 RR in Costa Rica and run a Subaru Rally car in the states. Believe or not I rallied an MG Maestro Group 'N' in the middle east.. Al Tayer motors of Dubai backed me with service. The deal was to put their name on the car for free in return for service. They provided 2 techs and 2 disco's. Maybe you can approach them? Stuart Mc dougall was the Manager in those days.

Let me know if you get stuck for service I lived in Dubai for 2 years. Actually I did the Middle East Rally Championship and ended up staying. Dubai I s fab place and there are tons of Europeans and US guys living there. I know quite a few folks out there. Just make sure you carry plenty of cold water. The raid is awesome. My friend ran a 700bhp V8 power boat engined 110 pick up!!!

Well I'm back in Costa Rica armed with spare parts. I found online a seal which was a rubber coated metal seal with a spring for the seal. I had to modify it sligthly but it fitted and as yet did not leak. Not bad for $3.00! I also fitted the expensive right angle box for the speedo cable which improved the speedo but it still clicks slighly so I figure the cable is bent also. Drove it to work today and never backed off for any of the pot holes......RR suspension rules.

You can get a complete seal kit for about $100 which I'm told has the seal. I'm going to go to a bearing/seal supplier and see if they have something similar. Interesting...a brake fluid mix? Anyway now I'm on a mission so I will let you know if i find a seal. Lucky for me I bought the old one with me.

I have a 91 box on my 83 RR and fitted it last week to find the input shaft seal leaks pretty bad. So I can get the lower selector shaft seal but I'm having problems finding the input shaft seal. Any ideas? I'm in the Boston USA area. LR dealers don't have this seal separate. Thanks

So I contacted the previous owner of the box I bought. I said it did not leak. He said to get the air out the system. I see a bleed valve . What's the best way to bleed the box? could I be making to much pressure forcing the fluid past the seals? what if the return from the box to the fluid container hole is to small with my fittings would this build up extra pressure? just a thought

I rally a Subaru Legacy and I will say off road these cars ar fast and tough. So back to the RR. I drove it last night and although no play now it still feels vague.....so I'm I asking to much of the steering feel? I know this not a rack and pinion set up but surely the feel is better?? The self centering is slow also. I still have to replace the tie rods/track control arms and the rubber flexible joint. So how does a RR feel in the steering? Another thing is this box leaks more than the other so I have to get new seals.....mmmmmm should have bought a used Subaru.....Ha ha ha

You should work with Subaru's they are even better! The engines swap parts over as do the suspesion. I tried to swap the tie rods but the parts shop supplied me with internal tread rods were as mine are external. I thought all classic RR were the external type. External meaning you can see the tread. mmmm now I have to wait until next month to fit them.

I finallly fitted the 91 RR steering box to my Costa Rican 83 RR. There are some differences to the box but in the end it bolts up. The problem was the pipe fittings and sizes. The 83 is compression fitting and the 91 has an O ring type fitting. Solution would be the use the fluid holder/pump metal ends from the 83 and the box pipes form the 91 and have new rubber piping made to put both years fitting together. Now try to explain that in Spanish! plus I didn't have the 91 fittings. In the end I used a few reducers and adapters to go from an O seal to compression fitting. I fitted everything, filled with fluid and all worked well. Another quick fix was for the gauges which worked but the needldes had curled up in the heat. I used white thin plastic an put a small fold down it's length then glued it over the old needle. Looks like the original. I fitted a mechical oil pressure gauge instead of the electric one which was defective. Next is to replace the Tie rods and swivel seals.

The lastest up-date!!! I got a good steering box off Ebay from a US market 91 RR. I checked it in at the airport but when I arrived in Costa Rica the bag was still in Boston. The reason being the Gunk engine cleaner I used to clean the box made them panic. So after a few frantic calls the box arrived. I went to get the car last night in the heavy rain, a 2 hour journey. Once I got to the RR the battery was dead. Lucky the house was on a hill so a quick bump fired the RR up but to my horror the oil light didn't go out! The Hydraulic tappets were rattling so I turned off the engine. Now I was stuck at the bottom of the hill at 11pm . My friend helped me jump the car but still the oil light was on. I thought well I've most likely wrecked the engine now so best thing to do is drive it back to house and leave it until next time. So I reversed slowly up the road and just as I parked the car the oil light went out and the engine sounded normal. So I decided to drive the 30miles back to see what happens. Nothing thankfully. This morning was the first time I had seen the car in daylight! It looks OK. So a few questions: The steering box looks the same apart from my 83 has the 2 inlet/outlet pipes on the top for the hoses as the 91. The rear conection(veiwed from front) looks the same size but the front is smaller than the 91 box. Anyone done such a conversion? what thread sizes? I know the front one is a small spark plug size thread because I used a sparky to plug the hole in transit. The oil light staying on: anyone experience this? this morning it didn't do it. The speedo is as suggested. The right angle conection is worn as I can hear it clicking. Any help is greatly appreciated as trying to locate stuff here is a nightmare. Plus not speaking Spanish does not help.

Next Sunday I will be back in Costa Rica with I hope the used steering box I won on Ebay(AA check in will get a shock!). It is in better shape than my box and off a 91 so I hope it fits. I have the speedo and fuel/temp gauge console and wondered if the later US console with tacho will fit? Looks better and at least I know what revs I'm doing! I'm also going to change the tie rods. I hope then I can drive in a straight line!!!

I did the crank seal last night after loaning a 34mm socket from a rally friend. It was going to cost $70 just to buy the tools so I was happy I could loan. I return to the US on Saturday and will search for a good steering box for my return in 2 weeks. I also need the flexible rubber steering joint as the previous owner wired it up!!! I drove the car last night and it's actually nice to drive for a 25yrs old car.