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stanleysteamer

Getting Comfortable
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  1. Saga insurance has unlimited foreign cover, but ADAC, a German company, beloved by the caravan club, covers you anywhere, i/e/ UK and Europe, and your wife in any vehicle for not much more than £100. Only problem is they tend to answer the phone in German and you just have to wait patiently until a human being speaks to you then say "in English,please" and they sort you out.
  2. Hi Sierrafery, nice to hear from you again. Unfortunately I am in France and not really in a position to get the fault read easily. I think, once our guests have gone, as it is nice and dry now, I'll just take the wheels off one at a time and see if I can see any obvious damage to wiring or whatever. But obviously, if it is not obvious, then the only thing is to do what you said. It'll take me a while to take all the wheels off, but time is not something I am too short of! Luckily! cheers Stan
  3. Hi here's the situation. TD5 mark 1. After slightly heavier braking than my usual soft style, the following lights went to amber and have stayed on since. HDC, TC, ABS. Also the brakes squeal a tiny bit, as the vehicle come to a stop. Vehicle drives absolutely fine but obviously I am not expecting any of the things the lights represent to work. Am thinking wheel sensor has a problem. what do ou think and where do you think I should start? regards S
  4. Hi Western, I used to work with Mike from Greyhound recovery. I was the bloke who took the tumble once while training at Goodwood, a few years back. I've read the stuff about Australia, but I am not sure regs are the same over here. Thanks for the info keep safe!
  5. Hi, simple question I hope. When buying secondhand lpg tanks, is there an actual legal age beyond which they cannot be used, even if in good condition? Thanks
  6. Hi Bear, I have looked at RAVE and it is really more about repairing seat material than anything else. All those hog rings! Ouch! But I may well give it a go when I have a chance, I just had another quick look at it and it does seem as if I may be able to do something just working on the bottom of the seat and seat back, but we will see. Cheers
  7. Hi Bear, I have checked, I know I made a mistake! The seat base IS locked down, the back will now go into place, it just will not lock there. I didn't think RAVE would have this detail. I think I have it downloaded so I will look. So thanks awfully for the advice, I'll try to remember to get back to you on this, but I have asked this question on so many forums! I'll make a note in my notes!
  8. Hi all. Disco 2 TD5 5 seater. In a hurry, I took the seat, which had been folded forward to put a big load in, to put it back up. I pushed it back and the upper part would not move back up. Stupidly, instead of making sure the floor level lever/strap thing was completely down and locked, I just applied a bit more force to the seat back. It moved up a bit under protest, until it dawned on me what I was doing. I then put my hand down the back of the seat, pushed the strap/handle thing down, locked the seat base down then was able to push the back upright, but, you've guessed it, it no longer locks into position. To pass the MOT, I removed both rear seats. But I understand this will not be possible next year, or even this? I have trawled the internet but only found a rather naff instructable in German, I think, with some dodgy pics. Due to the seats' propensity for having the locking mechanism sticking I am sure I am not the first to have this problem. I have tried taking various bits of plastic off and sprayingwhat mechanism I can find with WD etc, but it still will not lock up. Can anyone help with how to strip it down, fix it and put it back together? Typically it is the bigger (and heavier) one of the two! Would be enormously grateful for any help!
  9. Hi Ballcock! The news is that: A definitely, none of the keys open a door, but all three turn the ignition! B I got into the car using the old technique used to get into cars back in the 1970s, I hesitate to put the exact method on the forum as who wants to get their Disco 1 entered illegally? Suffice it to say it took a plastic bag. So no damage to the car at all. Not even a scratch. C Once in, bonnet opened, both battery connections disconnected and trusty old charger connected, still charging as I write. D Will now use the VIN number and official Land Rover dealer to get the key number, EKAD etc, (radio code not needed as came with aftermarket radio) As I now have the time I am intrigued as to how difficult it could be to work out how to make a key, using a blank if you have unlimited access to the lock. May still try and find previous owners but there are a lot of them! Anyway, all is now on the up and up so I'm chuffed! Thanks again, mate.
  10. Hi all. Bought a new to me Disco 1 a while back. it was driven here by the previous owner who gave me three keys, al;l with apparently identical profile, on a ring together with the plip. I got into the car not long after, opening with the plip. Started it, moved it, parked it, locked it with the plip. Went out to it today, plip didn't work. Said to myself, battery must be flat, wanted to open door to open bonnet to charge batt. Key would not open door lock. Tried passenger door, same thing. Tried filler cap, opened JUST enough to enable filler flap to open with a "lift". Conclusion, someone along the ownership line replaced the ignition barrel, put all the keys on the ring together with the plip, and hung onto the original keys. Of course I have no paperwork with the original key number on it, although I am hopeful I can get this from Land Rover if I produce the V5s and proof of identity. But for the time being I just want to get into the machine to charge the battery. I used to be able to lift the door button with a piece of flexible plastic but I don't think that'll work with a Disco 1, I know it cannot be done with my Disco 2. Has anyone any ideas as to how I can open the car, or even just the bonnet? All help gratefully received!!!
  11. Hi all, here is the conclusion. I took the offending stud out and decided to just go further into the existing hole with a 8mm tap. Whic is what I did. I then had to very carefully pick a bolt of the right length, basically by packing it out with washers, so that it was far enough in to do the job but not so far in that it bottomed out. That done I replaced the rest of the stuff I had had to remove to get at the job. By far the biggest problem was replacing the Air Con pump. For some reason, the bolts in two of the holes did not really seem to want to go in. I lost one somewhere down inside the engine bay, or possibly in the gravel beneath. (I know, should have spread something under the vehicle) So I dug out my trusty medical long clamping pliers and used them to position the rest, (bolt in other hole). But two of them once tightened ending up feeling like I did not dare tighten them further for fear of stripping the threads yet again. And my golden rule is to always use Copperslip. But that still does not help! And no, I did not overtighten anything. I am coming to the conclusion that many thing screwed into aluminum are "use once only". However, it is together and running and I drove 120 plus miles in it yesterday and all seems fine. Except there is a slight smell of coolant in the cab now, but only sometimes, and I did not disturb the cooling system at all, which is a bit weird really, but I just could not face draining and refilling the system, so I worked around the top hose and still managed to do the job. So that is the one final thing I will have to investigate. My driving around was due to my going to inspect and then buying a Disco one V8, manual fully fitted with 4 lpg tanks. Something I have wanted for a long time. Once it is all OK I think the TD5 is for the market place. Why did I bother to buy and fit the De-EGR kit, I wonder? Still the next owner will benefit from it. Cheers
  12. Hi gang. Update on this issue. I cannot remember if I did remove any more studs before getting the manifold off but yes, not only was it warped but the two end ports had moved in the vertical plane, when mounted, hence the difficulty in getting it over the studs. Anyway, with a bit of persuasion and a lot of language it came off. Went to the engineers who only grind cast on a Friday (lol!) Had to pay extra as it was so warped it had to be on the machine longer, £60 in all. In the interim I cleaned up and ran a thread nut down the studs that came out, I also cleaned up the nuts. I then had a look at the holes where the missing studs had been. I found that 8mm bolts would still go down them so hunted around in my old stocks of stuff and miraculously found two studs. Lord knows where they came from, a Pinto engine possibly, anyway, cleaned up the threads and I was good to go. Having read this thread I got myself a set of lef-thand threaded drill bits and a good set of extractor/easy outs. Started small on the one stud that had broken off. Luckily, as my centre punch was slightly off centre when I tried to put a little dink in the end of the stud. Which had broken off just below flush with the head. Was able to recentre the hole with the tiny drill bit, then went up in size of bit until I got to the point where I thought I might risk using an extractor. Now the drill bits came in all sorts of weird sizes, and the extractor instructions said exactly the diameter and depth of hole needed to successfully extract. Guess what, I did not have a left-hand drill bit of the right size. So was forced to use a 5.5mm conventional drill bit. And using that the stud suddenly decided to go with the drill bit, further into the head. Whoopee do. By now it was beyond the threaded part of the hole and totally inaccessible with the "easyout". I determined that it was going to be possible to screw a new stud into the existing hole if I could clear the threads, as of course, the remains of the stud had broken off from the drilled part as it went deeper into the head. So, I drilled extremely carefully in the hole moving up the range of bit sizes as far as I dare, then I got an 8 mm tap and went down the hole, as far as I dared, hoping that I would not break the tap, or strip the thread. Fortunately this worked. Huge sigh of relief. So, with a lot of redrilling and filing of the mounting holes on the manifold, I eventually got it to fit over the studs, ditto the gasket. Feeling elated I went and got the torque wrench and, like a good boy, started in the middle and went round in a spiral pattern. To find that the top stud on number one cylinder, closest the rad, was going round and round. Fed up especially since the missus is in hospital and would have liked me to be able to go and pick her up in the Disco as she has had an op on her hip which would make it more difficult for her to be moved in our other car. What I am going to try and do is to remove the stud with two locked nuts, drill the hole out to whatever it needs for a tap for 10mm, tap it and fit a bolt. Stupid thing resisted fine as I was doing it up without the torque wrench. Lesson learned. Hope to heaven I never have to do another one but anyone else doing it needs to put a spacer of some sort (a bigger nut for instance) over each stud and then put a nut on it and torque it to the correct torque before messing around with replacing the manifold. Only way I suppose to really find any hidden weaknesses in the threads. I HATE aluminium heads!!!! Probably due to once owning a Dolomite Sprint, what a nightmare that was! Hope someone somewhere is benefiting from my mistakes! Will finish this once it is all done. Wish me luck!
  13. Ok, have since nearly got the manifold off, but ran into the following problem. All nuts off, odd one or two studs came with the nuts. Now I have got it moving but it does not want to come right off. Admittedly I had to leave it and do something else, so with a bit more persuasion, i.e. hammering and leverage, it may come off, but I am thinking I may be reduced to removing more studs, if not all of them. I am putting this difficulty down to the manifold being so warped, the holes around the remaining studs are locking on to the studs, but then it could just be rust. All good fun! But worth mentioning to others who may think that just getting the nuts off will be the end of their problems! Will keep you posted.
  14. Hi Purity V, you have cracked my problem too. Would you mind telling me where you found it as I too have a series 2 Disco TD5 year 2000 and also need to do engine work? Would be much appreciated! John
  15. Hi all I have this problem and I do not want to risk trying to get out the studs that are fine and then breaking them. So if they are not bust I am not going to fix them! So far I have one broken one I will need to drill out and replace and possibly another where I will have to go to 10 mm. Once I have got the manifold remachined, I will be drilling out the 1 and 5 port holes to 10mm and the 3 and 4 port holes to 9 mm but tell me, what is the harm in putting good strong washers between the nut and the manifold? Would that not allow the manifold to move the tiny bit it needs without losing clamping power? This used to be normal practice on many vehicles. Looking forward to your ideas.
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