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Found 82 results

  1. I am looking for a new engine for my Defender 300tdi, appreciate it is a long shot but does anyone know where I can purchase one new in the crate? I am based in NZ, so will be shipping International, so an exchange unit is not ideal. Alternatively can you give feedback on the various engine re-conditioners in UK. Thanks V much P
  2. Okay, as some of you may be aware I'm going to be driving down the Canning Stock route from Halls Creek to Wiluna in Western Australia riding shotgun for a mate who intends cycling the 1800 odd kilometers, of sand dunes, corrugations and salt lakes in a planned 10 days or less. He intends cycling at least 10 hours a day so lil' old me will be pottering along some 2 k's behind him at around 19 kph. I am not allowed to give assistance merely to carry his spares and tools. He has to carry his own food, water bedding tent etc. WA has received an extraordinary and unseasonable amount of rain this year and the spinifex has grown. Now, for those of you who haven't encountered spinifex imagine a nasty vindictive vegetable porcupine rooted deep into the soil. It may be a form of tussock grass but trust me it can and in my case the sharp stalks have punctured my tyres both in the side walls and right through the tread. The problem is that the stalks are so thin that external detection of the leak with soapy water is almost impossible, the only solution is fully immersing the wheel in a tank of water - and tanks of water are rare in the desert. The solution is to remove the case and fit a new one, I carry a pneumatic bead breaker and tyre levers and although I'd rather get someone else to do it, - because its bloody hard exhausting work - I can and have replaced several tyre cases. So, okay I will be taking around 10 wheel/tyres with me, Mounted on my six rims will be 6 Bridgestone Desert Duellers - these are 235/70R16. I also have 4 Maxxis 225/75R16. My question to the forum is this; the rolling diameter of the Bridgestones is a theoretical 29" (if they were brand new with 100% tread, which they are not, they all have around 7mm of tread depth to the limit bar) the Maxxis are a theoretical 29 1/4" - again if they were brand new with full tread, again they are not, they also have around 7mm of tread to the limit bar. So, can I use the Bridgestones and the Maxxis together on the same axle with reasonable impunity with only 1/4" (6mm) diameter difference bearing in mind that if I get a puncture in the desert they will be running around 16 psi - do I have to use the same tyre brand/size on the same axle or can I mix-match as and if I get a puncture ?
  3. After my 300 TDI wouldn't stay timed I opened up the case and stared at it for a long time. After a while I realized the crankshaft timing gear wasn't quite aligned with the outer woodruff key cutout. After pretty much destroying my gear puller and 8 M5 bolts I was able to get it off. Make sure you use a hammer and chisel to knock it back in line before going after it with a puller. I replaced it with what I think is a higher quality gear and put the crank pulley bolt on good and tight. Now she is right as rain.
  4. Hi all, I'm new to the forum and was looking for a part number or specific size of the two bolts which secure the fuel lift pump to the block on a discovery 1 300tdi. I somehow managed to lose a bolt while i was putting on a new delphi pump on mine today. Don't ask! Rough measurement of the bolt i have is a hex flange m8x25mm. Is that correct? Have searched high and low online for a part number but to no avail. Thanks in advance, Frank
  5. Hi a quick update of the saga so far. My 110 had always been a bit smokey under power, but fine off boost. I had a look at the fuel pump, and sure enough it had been twiddled with. I turned the top back about 30 degrees towards the original witness mark on the conical pin, and things were improved, though there was a small loss in acceleration. That was where I left it until sourcing an EGT gauge, and now a boost gauge. The max EGT was 770 degrees on a long hill towing, so I shudder to think what it was before turning the top of the pump back. I have now finally got a boost gauge, and have adjusted the wastegate push rod to give additional boost. I made an adjustment of two turns shortening the rod, and went back to the same incline. Boost has increased from 1 bar to 1.1~ 1.2 bar, and the EGT has dropped to 695 degrees. It's too dark to discern the smoke now, but looking at the headlights behind, it seems to be greatly improved. more fettling tomorrow to see if the initial acceleration can be improved. Mike
  6. Hi everyone I have a Turner 300TDi 21L (from Disco I think) in my 1996 110 and I'm preparing to do the timing belt. I asked a supplier about a kit and they've asked me if the belt tensioner has a lip on it or not (even though I told them it's a 21L). Is there a definitive answer based on the engine code, should I ask Turners or would I need to wait till I can see it? Thanks
  7. Hi there all. My 300tdi got some issue recently, been reading all the threads but none seem to match exactly.. The disco got 180000 on clock, but engine was from a range with less mileage. Has always run well over last 7years. Took it to spain couple of years ago, up the Sierra Nevada 3000m skiing. Was bloody cold! At that point I had semisynthetic GTX oil in to cope with the cold.. on leaving the Sierra a few days parked at sub zero C. It smoked blue like a smoke machine for a little while.. Downhill steep. Totally cleared in 10min. it has since been getting a little more smoke over time. Untill it completely covered the hole car in blue smoke!! Could see nothing at a junction. My workshop was round the corner.. Power was fine. More smoke when accelerating.. While running took oil filler cap off.. Lots of pressure. Little smoke. Checked cyclone was working fine.. Oil dripping out of exhaust joint after turbo. the next day I degreased engine and drove it into workshop. Definitely little smokey but not as badly as before, also no pressure at oil filler any more..? Turbo: took hoses off. Little play side to side but no fire and aft. So fine as per gencoe website. While running, no oil on cold side. removed manifolds: no oil in inlet manifold, none in exhaust.. Slight oily gasket at cylinder 4 Started engine without manifolds.. Engine cold, this is the next day.. oil started collecting in all four exhaust ports?!? The rear two it was puddling quite soon... I started to remove head.. I know now I should have done a compression test, but don't have a tester.. to my surprise the gasket seems to be in good condition..??!!? Still see crosshatch on bores. That's as far as I've got.. Btw first real engine work for me, apart from my scooter rebuild 20 years ago.. Will clean it all up today find a straight edge and check head flatness.. What next?? Could it be piston rings? Or valve seals/guides? How to check.. anything else..? All comments appreciated.. Well.. DD
  8. To keep me amused during the coming winter months (to us in Oz thats any temperature below 10 degrees C) I am in the process of rebuilding a 300TDi. Once built it will go into my Disco and I'll sell the incumbant - 370,000 kilometers - to recover some of the costs. At the moment the crank is off being nitrided, it has already been X-rayed and has no cracks or defects, the nitriding process hardens the surface and makes the whole crank more durable, once that has been done the jurnals will be reground to suit new main and big end bearings. Once this is done the entire crank, flex plate and main pulley will be ballanced to spin at 12000 rmp, well over the expected maximum of 4000 so it should spin very sweetly. Currently the block has been stripped down and the welsh plugs removed, the water ways were shot blasted with glass beads and some 1/2 a cup of foundry sand removed (and this from a 1999 engine that has done over 400,000 kilometres!) the block was then immersed in a chemical bath to totally remove every last vestige of paint and grease and its now in the process of being repainted - in BMC spruse green - mainly because I have a couple of tins over from doing up a Cooper S motor some years back! The next step will be to have it sleaved and rebored back to standard, currently its 0.090" oversize. The conrods will then be checked to make sure that they are all exactly the same lenght and if not then stretched to match the longest one before being ballanced - all equal to teh lightest rod. The new pistons will be checked to ensure that the volume of teh combustion chambers are all equal, if not then the smaller will be polised out to equal that of the largest volume before they too are measured for length from gudgeon pin to crown, again, some lapping may be required to ensure they are all the same length. Land Rover are fairly slack in this area with different cylinders having compressions of up to 70 psi being acceptable, I'm aiming for no more than 15 psi between any cylinder. A new camshaft will be fitted with new camshaft bearings and oil pump drive, at the same time I'll be investigating to see if I am able to fit IVECO hydraulic tappets and if so what additional oil ways will need to be drilled. I'll keep you informed as work progresses.
  9. I am having power problems on my 1995 Discovery 300tdi. One of the items to check is the Lift Fuel pump, which I changed. However, even is I put cylinder #1 on top, the fuel pump press again the cam a few mm and thus, deactivates the lift pump lever and I can not use the lever to purge the line. I got a second lift pump and it is the same. I am missing something?
  10. Hi Can I ask an easy question and get a quick answer? Hope so... One of the last checks I want to make on my 300 tdi is that the waste gate is opening. I'm planning to fit a pressure gauge so that I can see the boost and if necessary adjust the time that it occurs but I don't have that yet. I firstly thought I'd verify that the gate does in fact open and as I haven't any experience I don't know if my normal driving experience would show this - it probably would if I knew what to look for. So my quick Q is that I have removed the pipe to the FIP and stuck an airline into the fitting that also goes to the waste gate actuator but nothing happens. I have air compressor tank pressure of 2 or 3 Bar (I can have more) and I'm using a trigger blow gun thing with a short length of tube on it. Most of the air comes back out of the turbo intake (I have the in-feed pipe from the air filter off at the moment). Should I bang in enough air, put my hand over the turbo inlet or what? The engine is in the vehicle. (be gentle) Thanks
  11. Last year we did a first road trip in our 1996 110 CSW 300 TDi - having done loads by car. This time we wanted the chance to drive off road (just a little) and not worry about getting stuck. This is how we looked on our way through Austria - the first night where we didn't put up the tent and slept in the back and here's a few of our sleeping platform too The route: Ferry Hull to Rotterdam, Holland, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Serbia, Macedonia, Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, France and ferry from Calais. In all 6,160 miles and about eight weeks. I will add to the post over the coming days with a few pics - hopefully is will help anyone contemplating going to that area. Most travellers either go to Greece by ferry from Italy or drive round the back from Hungary to Bulgaria. We went into Serbia and although we only spent a night there, it was a lovely experience and I can recommend it.
  12. Not wanting to clutter the other thread where I have used the head-still-on method to change my seals (here) I'd like to use a new thread to ask more advice from the wealth of knowledge on this forum. When I changed the seals the first time, the blue smoke was worse, not clearing at all with the engine idling on the drive. I had a look at what I'd done and realised that I hadn't correctly located some of the seals onto the tops of the valve guides. So I did it again, repeating the method but trying to ensure that they were tapped on properly. I use the same seals as they all looked ok without any damage. However the blue smoke persistsed - clearing after 200m. So I looked a third time yesterday. Here are a couple of pics. As you can see, two seals have lifted. If I push them back on they pull off with slight finger pressure. One responded to a firmer tap and wouldn't then pull off so easily but one of the new seals won't locate as well as an old one. So I fitted an old one - picked one that seems to drag on the stem (hope that means a oil tight fit). Put it back together a third time, reset tappets and left overnight. It wasn't as cold this morning but I still got 200m of blue smoke. Hmm... Now I suspect the new seals and wonder if anyone else has had poor quality ones? I paid £2.89 +vat each for genuine parts but they have absolutely no manufacturer marks on them and they were in a plain bag. I've asked the (reputable) supplier to confirm that they are genuine but that was only yesterday and no reply received yet. Can I suspect the seals themselves? It can't be too difficult to seat them properly can it? If my blue smoke clears after 200m then it can't be anything else can it? Got to get it sorted as it's very anti-social as you drive through campsites (or down the road past the neighbours).
  13. Hi all, I've started to think about my 300TDi engine and what might need doing after ~110K miles. One item on the list, is to have a look at the injectors. I approached a local diesel overhaul specialist (great testimonials on the www, mainly for pump overhauls) and was advised that testing is £5 each and reconditioning £70 (probably plus VAT). As a cross check (and not having a clue about costs in this area) I looked at the price of new and saw quickly that Bosch injectors are £68+ VAT each. So is this a case that sometimes it's no more expensive to buy new? Or is it that new are nowadays not of the same quality as a set that have probably been on the engine for 19 years? I'm a bit confused and need some direction! Thanks
  14. Last year I took our 1994 Defender 110 CSW down to Rome over the alps. At the end of the long pull up hill the oil warning light flickered on. Once the engine had cooled it went off and we had no problems on the return journey to the UK (apparent from a cooked alternator!). Ihad no problems at all for the rest of the year until the warning light came on permanently preceded by a small clunk. I immediately stopped and check the oil level which was fine but appeared at the bottom of the dip stick i.e. not plasetered all over it. After stripping the engine down found that the oil pump had suffered a catastrophic failure with the outer ring failing completely and the broken remanants jamming in the timing belt case. The case is split and needs replacing and I need to check for damage to the bores etc but what I'd really like to know is what is likely to have caused total failure? Is it simply a case of it being old and worn beyond tolerance causing the teeth in the rotors to jam? Has anyone else suffered a similar problem with their 300tdi?
  15. I hope to chronicle this adventure I am about to take on. It’s been a long wait and pondering, but I finally committed to restoring my RR. The rig is close to 290,000 miles and the transmission finally gave way. I have actually just purchased all my parts today, really excited to take this on. The RR is a 94 Classic LWB: 4.2, zf trans, borg warner tcase. I have big plans for this rig and plan on keeping for a long time. I love the styling, the ruggedness, durability(most of the timeJ) and ease of maintenance on it. I would love a defender but at the time that was just impossible to get. Anyway I love this car and would never think of getting rid of it for any of the newer versions. I hope to keep this updated but we’ll see. Never did this before. Quick synopsis: Step ONE- upgrade power train. Always been interested in diesel just because of durability and economy, so this is now where I am. I am doing a 300tdi conversion with R380 trans, and LT230 tcase. I just placed the order today for all the necessary parts for the conversion so I hope it goes smoothly. It’s a little scary ordering something this much and just relying on the other person to keep their word and quality and hope for the best. I wanted to take on this upgrade because I wanted the control, quality and attention that I will put into it. Got the parts from Land Rover Imports and he seems really cool and very attentive to his customer. Definitely enjoyed the transaction with him and has been really helpful. Step TWO- upgrade drivelines. Going to get my parts from GBR in Utah, Bill is a really cool and knowledgeable person to talk to. Very helpful in giving me info on which directions to go. I will be getting a pair of axles through them and prop. shafts. Step THREE- upgrade suspension. Don’t know which direction I will be going, but I think just doing 2-3” lift. Will mostly be doing highway driving and medium to heavy trails to get to climbing destinations. Will be doing the interior also but will do that on another topic. Going to be doing a camper conversion on the latter stage so that my wife and I can stay cozy when out during the cold season! ANY ADVISE/COMMENTS ARE WELCOME. ANY TRICKS AND TIPS FOR THE BUILD OR SITES TO LOOK INTO ARE MORE THAN WELCOME. Thanks for reading the long intro. I hope I can keep this documented really well.
  16. Hi I hope you will find this interesting and that i can get some advise, even the fact this Land Rover is LHD. History of the project is long, way to long. it started some 10 years ago, when i bought a 1967 109" STW, Ex. danish civil defence. got it home, stripped it apart and order a new chassis, springs and started to rebuild it. Then life got in the way: the project has moved twice, changed specs several times and will for sure change again. but this is how it looks to day: 1965 SII 109" STW on the papers Richards Galv. Chassis, made for 2.5 N/A engine, removable gearbox crossmember Rocky mountians spring Salisbury rear axle, series diff. Std. Rover front axle, series diff. Disco 300 TDI engine LT77S gearbox LT230 transfer, ratio 1.2 PAS steering - LHD P38 steering house + defender coloum and the rest series SIII Bulkhead SIII front end SII from bulkhead and backwards. Interior - will come in time.... Status oktober 2015: Chassis with springs, dampers, axles = rolling chassis Engine and gearbos mounts made, using 2.5 N/A chassis mounts, LHD side engine mount from 2.5 and homemade RHD mount to go around the oliefilter, gearbox mounts from 110", bolted to chassis in new holes with crush tubes. engine and gearbox dropped in for test fitting and task finding. SIII bulkhead in the making, found a good one, the only need og new footwells and doorpillars - ready for test fitting and modification to suit the LT77 gearbox and new steering setup. SIII Frontpanel - found a rustfree takeoff, and started to mod it for 300TDI radiator and TD5 intercooler. radiator needs to sit as far to thr RHD side as possible, to leave space for the P38 steering house, the intercooler just high enough to clear it So now the task at hand: being a LHD, my space on the LHD side of the engine is kind of restricted, hence the P38 servo and defender coloum, giving much better space around the Turbo and alternator. i will have to cut the inner wing and make some new, but would prefer keeping it to a minimum. I know I can get(or make one up) a Gwyn Levis bracket for a second or in my case one alternator in the A/C spot, that moves the alternator for me, leaves great space for steering and hoses in the old spot. but what about the Fan belt ? can i just get a shorter one or do i need to make up on idle pully or ?? any advises would be helpfull.
  17. Hi Folks, Getting excited now. Picking up my 1997 Defender 300Tdi 110 CSW tomorrow. Will be bringing it down to Bristol. Wondering if folk can recommend a good garage that can do servicing on it. A garage that knows how to treat these classic vehicles and give them the correct loving - if you take my meaning. Simon...
  18. Got the front calipers off and replaced no problem. The rear right caliper came off with a bit of "naughty" effort wiht an 1/2" air wrench. But can I get the top bolt on the left rear caliper to undo? Can I buggery! Can't get a decent approch with the air wrench as there's the spring and the exhaust in the way. So any tips to get this bolt out? Niamh
  19. Hi Folks, New to this forum and Land Rover in general - please be gentle. In the process of purchasing a Defender 110 300Tdi Took a picture of the engine and when got home notice something which made me wonder whether there is something missing and/or retro fitted and subsequently removed. See the cut clip highlighted on the image and compared to a picture from a Land Rover Wiki. Any other thoughts/observations welcome too. Thanks, Simon...
  20. Hi all, 300TDi in a 110 CSW 1996. I know that there are many threads talking about this subject and believe me I have read a good chunk of them. The other day I replaced the bearing in my serpentine tensioner pulley to eliminate the chirp which has started to annoy me big time. I used an SKF 6203RS and it was no trouble at all to do this. I'm running on a new Dayco belt (< 7,000 miles). However it hasn't eliminated the budgie. So this evening I have been having a further look and using a bit of wood as a sounder and also spinning the other pulleys. I was 100% convinced that the noise is coming from the idler. To prove this to myself I squirted a small amount of WD40 behind the nut / domed washer and in from of the new bearing. Lo and behold the noise vanished. So I removed the idler pulley again and had a good look at what could be squeaking. It's a new bearing of course and I have concluded that its a bit of slippage between the domed washer and the inner sleeve of the bearing. I have tried to tighten this a fraction more but there's still a squeal. Its a complicated shaped washer - at least mine is. I'm wondering (and this is the question), if this washer might have worn at some stage so that its not loading the bearing sleeve quite enough. Has anyone else had this specific thought? I don't know if a washer is available on its own or indeed if I could add a flat washer as an extra thickness. There's no reference to the washer on its own - it is part of ERR4708, the entire unit. This ranges in price from £27 to £54 depending on what none-LR make you buy. Gen LR is of course a little more than that. So does anyone have any idea of the true profile of the washer and/or where i might get another? Or in fact if I'm still barking up the wrong tree? (apologies, I've posted this in another forum too, but I'm tending to read this one more and more...) Thanks
  21. Hi, Wondering if anyone here has ever fitted a performance camshaft to their 300tdi? I may rebuild the engine next year and like any old engine, I would expect the cam lobes to be a bit worn down. I have seen the standard ERR3547 camshaft for sale but never a performance version, i.e. more torque. Is there one out there, anyone fitted one, and did it make any difference? cheers LRmud
  22. As part of my gearbox conversion (ZF4HP22 to R380) I will be upgrading to a disc brake conversion and dumping the very heavy drum brake set up, when I pulled it apart the brake shoes were covered in engine oil - no wonder the bloody thing would'nt hold - this engine oil could only have come from the WABCO vacuum pump. I'm on my third or fourth unit now and they always fail by leaking oil out of the bottom welsh plug due to engine oil getting past the piston and being compressed in the discharge poppet valve, to put it bluntly its a carp design. I've pulled one apart and instead of piston rings it uses a "H" section piston made of some sort of hard plastic which is simply and clearly not up to the task. Replacing the rivets with bolts is only a part solution fix, the material used on the piston seems to be the problem as the skirts wear and break away allowing oil past the piston, this should simply not happen, the old British company (long gone I believe) of Davies & Metcalfe would have produced a far better designed pump - they did it on steam loco's, the XPT and "bendy train sets" and were, engineering wise, far superior to the American Wabco -(Westinghouse American Brake Company). So, do any of you use an electric vacuum pump to replace this piece of turd, if you do have you found them to be reliable, repairable, (the Wabco isnt!) what sort of power -amps/watts- do they use, how big are they, are they noisy (the Wabco accounts for at least 20% of the 300TDi engine noise at idle) and if you use one what make and type do you, would you, recommend ?
  23. I'm thinking about buying a compression tester. I'm not sure yet that there's anything wrong with the TDi in my 88, but she's definitely poorly, going to start with an injector swap tomorrow and sort new air filter pluming and a new filter over the weekend I hope. I haven't got lots of money to spend so I need to make sure I buy what I need first time. Has anyone any recommendations for a set? What is the maximum pressure a TDi should generate on test? Have seen a couple of kits that go to 70bar/1000psi which are stated as for Diesel, is that enough? Thanks guys
  24. Hi, Has anyone tried the fuel pump mod on a 300tdi EDC auto which involves adding a variable resistor ? Can anyone point me to a good write-up ?
  25. Most Disco's sold in Australia were/are autos, as mine was originally, now I've converted it to a R380 manual I'm having all sorts of problems locating the metal cover that is normally pop-riveted onto the transmission tunnel for the manual gearbox, they are as rare as the proverbial hens teeth here, so, would anyone have one that they would be willing to sell me, I'm more than happy to pay the postage cost on top of the purchase price, if it has the rubber boots for the gearstick(s) all the better.
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