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  1. Hi all, The roof of our 110 creaked a bit the last few weeks, and tightening the screw in the front left corner didn't help this time. So removed the lining to take a look... The fixing point turns out to have cracked 😕 Presumably the permanent presence of a roof rack with RTT and a large awning attributed to the problem. I'm a bit at loss about how to solve this.... We'll be leaving for Iceland in a couple of weeks, so the 110 will have to cope with long stretches of bad roads an corrugations. Any ideas or suggestions? Greetings, Joris
  2. As per the title what is this switch called? It has fallen to pieces so looking to replace it and not sure what to look for.
  3. Hi all, new to this forum. I am based in the UK...(down in the sunny south west) I own & drive a 1994 110 CSW...like everyone else it’s a love hate relationship....My 110 is pretty tidy apart from the dreaded rot fairy has taken hold of my doors. They look great outside but are being eaten from the inside out 😒 I am sure this Q? may have come up before but times move on and new outfits enter the market I’ve been researching alternatives to replacement of my doors with stock or galvanised aftermarket parts. Can I ask if anyone has 1st hand experience with fibreglass defender doors?....how are they?...do they feel good and tactile?....is there more road noise?...how robust are they?I came across a company here in the Uk Acorn fibreglass who make doors and have messaged them. I am awaiting a response. Are there any other alternatives out there to fibreglass?...in this day and age surely there must be someone that’s solved the age old issue of the Landy rot fairyThe idea of rot proof lightweight doors appeals to me but suspect there may be some drawbacks?... All the best.... the Cornishman
  4. I am putting my 110 CSW together and want to ask where do I connect the towbar wiring loom to the main loom. In the space up in the rear station wagon body or in the wheel well behind where the rubber divider goes? I will post pictures tomorrow when at the barn.
  5. A topic of a poster adapting his hardtop tub for overlanding led me to this write-up of the replacement windows I put in our 110. It's been over a year since I replaced the horrendous truck cab windows of our Td5 Hardtop 110 with gullwings. I liked the look of the original windows, but I finally had enough of the cheap and fragile plastic latches and sliding windows that took a fight every time we wanted to use them. A reason not to open them often prevailed... The Explore glazing windows are AFAIK the only truck cab-sized gullwing replacements. Regrettably they weren't available in clear glass so I opted for the lightest available grey ones. It's darker, but its not too conspicuous from the inside. The holes had to be enlarged slightly - a couple of mm's above and below. Without windows the flimsiness of the body is abundantly clear... The holes of the windows unfortunately don't correspond, and some overlap which is a bit annoying. Basically the screws seem to be an installation aid, whereas glue is the fixing method. I opted to add an extra pair of screws in the horizontal parts of the frame. I used industrial grade Sikaflex 552AT to glue it to the body. The choice for 552 turned out not to be optimal, I should have used a more fluid variant. It slightly buckled the body since there was less compression far from the screwed connections. Ideally I should have used a frame on the inside. An instructional video has been on the website of Explore since I installed the windows, there it is clear that a much more viscous product is used. There were two minor issues with the windows: - one of the gas struts leaked. - the hinge points for the gas struts were too close te one another, and bent outward the first time I closed the windows. That in itself wasn't really an issue, but it made the gas struts come closer to the frames, due to which they tended to pull out the rubbers. I contacted Explore, they admitted that the holes were probably made with measurements for the SW variant. Since they were glued, replacing wasn't an option, so they immediately sent new hinge points, screws and a quality thread cutting tap along with a new gas strut. Ever since I have been really happy with the windows. They weren't cheap, but the gain in quick acces is a real pleasure and gives sooo much more flexibility when camping. Access is not only quicker, but now the complete window surface opens, and not only half of it. They also aren't as draughty as the original ones and don't protrude from the body. I also appreciated the lack of the vertical line in the middle, they feel like they give a more clear view from the inside. Only downsides compared to the sliding type, is the fact that you can't open or close the latches from the inside, and that they're at forehead height (eye height to some) when open, but that's most likely inevitable due to their geometry. I did bump into them a couple of times. Greetings, Joris
  6. Hey everyone, I am excited to join your community and I am thrilled to report I recently won an auction on Ebay for my first Defender! It's a 1990 110 w/ 188000 miles. I'm planning on driving it back from SLC, Utah to Boston, MA. As a paraglider, I'm thrilled to finally get myself a weekend warrior to help me facilitate my sport! Here's what I have so far: Test drive video: Pictures of the underside: I'm a little disappointed with some of the quality of these pictures. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hv4rcg5iz90e8h0/AABwYhODh4GVLjHQSxOS2gFSa?dl=0 Would love your thoughts and opinions on the ride! I'm super excited to go pick it up!
  7. I mentioned this before on the forum. Well I gave it some thought and the £6k for a german or french one is out of my league. So after some deliberation I decided to build one myself. Apologies that its a mix of metric and imperial sizes but I'm sure you'll understand. Pic above is not quite to scale but shows roughly what it will be like (have not drawn roof rack on this yet but it will only add 50 or 60mm height) I didn't want to have the vehicle off the road whilst I built this, as I need to use it regularly, so it needed to be 'easy' and not involve taking the van apart. Some of these lifting roofs use the existing LR roof and raise it on a hinged plinth which is fitted between the old roof section and the van sides to allow the lifting/opening. However this means forming a curved piece for both above the windscreen and the shape of the back door, which is complicated and labour intensive (as well as needing to take the roof off.) To get round these 'problems' I thought I'd use the existing roof as a base, working up out of the existing gutter to form the sides and back from 3mm alloy sat in the gutter, with a front piece bolted on, and put a hinged lid on it and then once its fitted, sealed and I'm satisfied it works, I can lift it up, get inside on top with the jigsaw and cut out as much of the 'old' roof as I want, retaining enough around the vehicle to bolt the new one on to. Various other mods across the vehicle width to support the bed platfrom in the roof area will help to retain structural integrity and I reckon the finished item will be stronger than original. A roof rack made of simple alloy flat bar welded to the top on its edge with alloy tube across, will also help to make this even stronger (and I can carry my canoes on it). I searched the alloy extrusion folks catalogues and found two sections that are perfect - an unequal z section which works for the 'base' giving a good sized upstand to prevent weather ingress, and onto which I can fasten the lower part of the fabric sides, and which also has enough 'width' to allow a gas strut to fit in between. Above that, the 'closing' section is L alloy, inverted, which has bags of overlap up into which the fabric can be fastened and allows sufficient space for the loose material to pull inside when the roof is lowered and closed. Pic above shows sectional mockup with unequal Z section at bottom, with inverted L section on top, with 19mm box which will be basis for sheet on the roof. The black line is where the rubber gasket will go to seal the lid when closed. Note sufficient space for fabric to pull inside. To retain the front slope (windscreen angle) and give some wind shedding ability I've had the front section above the windscreen bent by my local alloy fabricators (who will do the difficult welding for me). This is because the stock extrusions are all right angles and wont work with the slope backwards. Above diagram shows section above windscreen to be folded by local alloy fabricators after I've fitted it perfectly (!) to windscreen. And a possible gasket solution (I have several solutions all of which should be fine.) Weight. A conventional roof tent is between 100 and 200 lbs, depending on make and size, and that's without a roof rack to support it. Add a rack which will be at least 50lbs and the overall weight on top is between 150 and 250lbs. My existing roof rack weighs about 50lbs and the roof section I'll remove is probably another 20-30lbs. So I'm 'losing' about 70lbs or so. The new lifting alloy roof will come in about 140lbs max with internal bits and bobs, so deducting the weight of the current roof rack and old roof thats being removed I'm only adding around 70lbs and at the very most 100lbs to the vehicle(and that is including roof rack). That's not anywhere near compromising vehicle stability. Sides and alloy Z and L sections are 3mm and roof is 1.2mm sheet on 19x19x 1.6mm box subframe. Height. Keeping it to less than 2.2m shipping container height. The new roof will end up only about 5 inches higher than the current rooftop (plus 2 inches for roof rack), so somewhere around 7 inches in total, but still less than a normal roof with roof rack (never mind adding a roof tent). There will be no sloping top on the roof above windscreen (like on the original roof) as it will be flat all the way through, so it looks a bit 'top-hatty' but I can live with that to have room for my feet when lying in bed! Speaking of which: the length from windscreen top to back door is 9 feet. Deduct a bed length of 6' 6'' (fitted in two sections) and that leaves a 2' 6'' gap at rear end which gives anything up to 10 feet of standing head room with the roof up and allows me to climb up and get onto the bed, and I'm fitting a small sink on the passenger side and a cooker on the driver side. The bed base in the roof area will be in two sections with the front piece bolted firmly in place to the sides and braced to be a structural member, and the second section towards the rear will be lift-up and remove and during the day will 'nest' on top of the front section, and can be pulled to the rear and popped in place for sleeping. That two part method allows a good amount of standing room for about 6 feet from the back door when the bed base is 'nested' and will make moving about inside easier. Ladder access to bed will either be rungs built into kitchen sink base unit and cooker base unit opposite (so two bed access points) OR a small alloy ladder fixed externally for roof access which can be unclipped from the outside and pulled inside at night and used to climb up on either side as required. Anyway some rough plans should accompany this, as well as pics. Plans not to scale, just for guidance. Although the extrusion code numbers are there in case you want to have a go. 3mm might seem overkill but when I added up the weight of using thinner stuff, but needing a stronger subframe to support it, and then the complexity of fabricating that, well.... 3mm sheet was an easy winner, cheaper and lighter. I'll try and keep photos coming so you can see it evolve. I should be in the welders in the next few weeks all things going to plan to have it all stitched together. Above diagram shows section of roof with extrusion ID codes and dimensions and a rough idea of construction method (not to scale). Above diagram shows gas strut fitting and fabric sides. Ply template for windscreen cut to fit then dimensions and shape transferred to ally. Ready to cut. Once its cut with jigsaw the local ally fabricator boys fold the front for me..........(with their years of experience)........... ......and do a lovely accurate job - and that's the front almost ready. The front gives the dimensions from which I can work backwards and establish all the other dimensions. Did it this way to allow leeway in the folding process, then use the final folded dimensions of the front as the 'gospel'. Working from back forwards makes getting front dimensions super-critical and more stressful for folders than necessary. Using the gutter as a working surface gives a 'fixed point' from which everything can be established when combined with the accurate front fold. Sides cut, offered up, and 'bodged' to get the right angles and length. Lots of wooden wedges and a shedload of swearing. Doing this on your own is not recommended. 3m long wobbly alloy is a pig to control. Especially if its windy! And you have one on each side! Back cut and fitted too. Sides then able to be cut to length. Lots of length allowed in case of errors. Rear aligned and finally cut, wooden wedges to hold it all in place. Everything level and perfectly aligned and ready for fitting the unequal Z section to the top of these pieces (left and right side and rear.) front has no Z section because it's folded. Above all is aligned and wedged, measured, and checked by eye for level all round. Unequal Z fitted and cut. Bit rough but within the tolerances of the welding. Front detail above windscreen ready for pop riveting the z section permanently to the vertical sides/rear. Small bolts to hold in place temporarily whilst I cut the 45 deg mitre at rear, and the effing awful multi-angle mitre at the front which has both a 90 degree angle and the 'whatever the hell the front slope is' angle. Front angle cut is a nightmare. All long cuts were done with a jigsaw, short right-angle mitres with a chop saw, and the multi-angle ones done with a jigsaw, hacksaw, oscillating tool and my teeth. I've just finished pop-riveting the Z section to sides and sealed the joint with Tiger Seal, so its ready for welding. Once thats done I can get the width for the lifting top and get that cut.
  8. I am hoping to pick the brains of you defender wiring gurus out there. I have a 1991 110 that has been converted from 200TDI to 300 TDI, and am replacing the wiring looms when i come across this brown with red tracer wire from the main loom into the engine bay. Can anyone tell me what its for please? I have studied the wiring diagrams and cant seem to find said wire anywhere .
  9. Hi from South Africa I appreciate the forum rules regarding advertising, but would appreciate any feedback on whether there would be any interest in your part of the world for the Defender 110 2.8i (BMW M52 engine) produced locally between 1997 and 2001. Any suggestions exploring this avenue will be appreciated.
  10. Has anyone any experience with these? Defender rear wheel arches http://www.lokari.de/epages/62716287.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62716287/Products/IKF-0879-0880-B
  11. Hi, I've just walked 90 minutes home, leaving the 110 parked up. Although these event may not be linked, here's what's happened: a while back a steel line to a front caliper got mashed so I hammered it over to stop the leak and thought 'better deal with that soon' cos 3 amigos good, 3 brakes less so. Last week I fixed it and had to re-bleed a little but there was clearly summit else wrong. Very hard to get any brake fluid from the front nipples and the servo started making a big hiss every time the pedal was pressed. Drove around for a few days with no assistance, decided all was well with brakes at wheels but needed a servo, which I ordered but do not have yet (lrdirect?, not so much...). Anyway, tonight the front brakes are suddenly binding so severely that the heat build-up/expansion makes it undriveable - I had to use low range to get it safely off the road, it would no longer drive in high. So, I guess I need to add a master cylinder to the shopping list? Surely there's no other possibility...???? BUT I'd be interested to hear if anybody's has a similar tale, cos I've had brakes fail 'off' before, but never 'on'. Or am I missing something ? Cheers
  12. Hello folks, short intro first: owner for 7 years, went through seals and one master cyl. replacement (2017), had problem with slave seals replacement (reported to forum here: ( ). Soemtimes (not allways) I felt clutch slipping when driving in 5th after sudden accelerator pedal pushed to the floor - only the engine responds with higher revs, but no change in vehicle speed. Seldom gearbox rejected to shift in reverse, but on second try it went. Since last year, in a two months a tea spoon of clutch fluid would be needed to top-up the reservoir. About a month ago LR hasn't been used for about two weeks, it has been parked in sloped street, nose down (if that is important). Car was left there in perfectly running condition. Was in a hurry, jumped in and went off. Just after start it was clear that any gear cannot be selected w/o high force and grinding sound. Because I was in a hurry I continued and finished short trip w/o clutch. In a following days a check was made and conclusion was that every gear can be selected when engine off, but none when engine on :-(. In next days clutch was bled, no bubbles, only black fluid (can be seen in reservir as well), still cannot select any gear when engine running. Idea popped my mind to try to extend clutch plate travel by extending clutch slave rod travel by setting clutch pedal to higher distance from floor (than stated in manual). And voila! I can change gears even when engine running w/o grinding sounds! With a lot of confidence in own LR mechanical skills jumped in and went off. Cold shower - grinding sound again. Then new test has been made: when engine idling any gear cen be selected, but on higher revs - not any! For about two weeks now I drive LR 3 times a week, change gears up and down with double declutching (w/o accelerator pedal in between) and more time between gears (in order to cease engine revs). No any other problem evident. My question is: should I try to replace master + slave + flexi hose first, and then to go complete clutch replacement (plate, spring plate, rel. bearing, lever, spigot, rear main seal), or to go to complete set replacement at once (to shorten repair time), or there are other problems (gearbox...) that could produce problems like mine? Sorry for long post... Regards, Ivan.
  13. Defender Td5 110 2003MY The fuel feeder (fuel tank > engine) pipe of my Defender was scrubbing against one of the mounting brackets welded on the chassis. This caused a leak and I had to replace the whole line 🙁 from the tank to the engine.. As the new line comes with all quick release connectors already mounted, I now have the following problem: The space between the chassis cross member (the one just in front of the fuel filter) and the upper body is not large enough to allow the connector through this space. When removing the old line I just cut it. But feeding the connector through the gap does not work as the gap is just too small. What to do? Raise the body 5 mm from the chassis to widen the gap? That's a lot of work. Is there another method while leaving the expensive replacement fuel line intact? See picture (I temporary led the line below the cross member, but it has to go above, between the cross member and the body). Anyone having experience with this? Kind regards Rob
  14. This is my first post on here guys so go easy all. I've got a fairly original low mileage LR 110 2.5 NA Hard Top. Overall it's in good condition but it's a bit too... Well... boring. I'm hoping to give it a little bit more of a presence. I know many of you won't believe this but... I've a bone dry engine. The engine was fully rebuilt including skim head and pump & injectors. For 67 hp it runs like a song and i'm not up and down the gears like i was before the engine rebuild. I'm looking to carry out the following additions: - Stealth Winch Bumper (Dixon Fabrication) - Set of Rock sliders (Dixon Fabrication) - Winch (to be sourced) - Roof Rack / Rear ladder (to be sourced) - Set of Alloys / offset steel rims with rubber (to be sourced) - Replace front seats for something more comfortable (to be sourced) - Radio & Speakers (to be sourced) - CB Radio and Aerial (to be sourced) - LED Lights all around (to be sourced) - Full Respray (to be sourced) Can you guys please point me in the right direction to source the above list. Or if anyone is clearing out/selling any of the above, please do let me know.
  15. HI I have recently bought a 1998 110 csw and i notice that the rear centre shock in the A frame is leaking, is this the correct name for it as I cannot find any references to it on the web anywhere and was looking for a replacement it has a large circular reservoir at one end thanks will
  16. Hi all, my names Adam, Im a keen metal Detectorist, motorcyclist, and camper. Tomorrow (16.5.18) im going to look at a LR Defender 110 TD5 Country - Expedition Spec It will be my first ever Land Rover - and I know nothing about them, apart from they good off roaders which will be great for my camping and metal detecting. Here are the specs - Any pointers very welcome. 12 MONTHS MOT + 6 MONTHS WARRANTY* 2001 X LAND ROVER DEFENDER 110 2.5TD5 COUNTY SPEC UTILITY 5 SEATER, REBUILT & PREPARED IN 2016 WITH £££'s SPENT ON NEW PARTS INCLUDING GALVANISED CHASSIS, 16" BOOST ALLOY WHEELS FITTED WITH DISCOVERER COOPER AT TYRES, Four wheel-drive, Blue, FULL LENGTH ROOF RACK WITH REAR LADDER, UPGRADED HEADLIGHTS & SIDE LIGHTS, DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM, FRONT BUMPER, LIGHT GUARDS, OLD MAN EMU SUSPENSION, ELECTRICAL POINTS & MUCH MORE, the garage is looking for just shy of 13k - Is that about right? I have also printed a list of things to check from LRO.com I look forward to hearing from you all soon. Kind regards Adam
  17. As per the title, what is this part and where does it bolt to? It is the silver painted part I have laying on the transfer box. Peter
  18. In rebuilding my 1989 110 I have to replace the gasket MUC7506 which seems to have superseded gasket ANR6333. As these gaskets are in the range of £10 to £20 could I use a Gasket paper to make them up to save myself some money? I was thinking of using something like this. High temperature (250°c) gasket paper sheet - Phoenix PG-G CNAF graphited. It comes in various thicknesses - from 0.4mm to 3mm - which thickness should one use?
  19. I have a 1984 110 and i wanted to know if i can fit the new defender doors with the up and down windows hopefully electrical ones. I just want to know if they fit and if they do which models are the right fit,
  20. Hello, the rear wiper blade on my 1990 110 has / is disintegrating. I went to my local Halfords however they no longer stock a replacement. Can anyone suggest somewhere else that would? I have attached a picture of the arm and blade fitting. The alternative, I guess, would be swap the wiper arm for one that will accept a 'modern' blade. Would anyone have any suggestions regarding that please? regards, Richard
  21. Looking to get an awning for the back end of the 110. Have already got a home-made small one of the typical self-supporting variety - a simple square of fabric on struts to keep off rain - but what I'm looking for is one of the small tent style that are described as 'drive-away awnings'. These are typically of the hooped pole design to make a small tunnel with a chunk of extra fabric on the rear to fasten onto the vehicle and a normal zipped tent door on the front. Found this one which is closest so far as the rear portal seems pretty tall and wide. There's plenty available for VW and other campervans, but there's one major problem buying sight-unseen - most campervans have sliding doors so the outward-opening door on the 110 can be a problem. I've found several different brands that look good, but their rear access to the vehicle - sometimes a zipped door or a flap - usually covered with a 'tunnel' of fabric to fasten to the vehicle roof or gutter - is too small to allow the LR door to swing inside. So my question is - anyone know for definite from personal experience of any such style of awning that allows a 110 rear door to easily open into it?
  22. Hi not sure if this has been talked about before or not but I have an defender 110 with the drum braked Salisbury axle which has blown the diff and halfshafts due to excessive play I think. My question is are the newer 110 axles with the smaller diff housing size and disk brakes the same ratio as my old Salisbury, as I would like the higher clearance for off road. Cheers.
  23. Hi, you can tell I'm a relative Land Rover newbie by the simplicity of the question. In this case, last night I had to pick-up my daughter from the other side of the Peak District after all trains from Manchester to Sheffield and Leeds were cancelled due to the floods and a fallen tree. I had to go through two fairly deep floods which had swamped a few cars but there were still some nutters who presumably think that by driving through at speed is the best course of action. Anyhow, the question is, without the wading plugs (but with axle breathers right up to the top of the bulkhead), what is the deepest water I can go through? Is it higher than the bottom of the bellhousing / timing cover?
  24. Hi guys I've just joined as thinking of my first defender, had a couple range rovers. Question, I know the answer is over loaded but have no choice. I've got a 4.3 ton chevy which is coming to Italy on the back of a trailer, as I said I know I'm gonna be to,d it's over weight. I'm think of a 90 to do the job as it with be kept and upgraded when in Italy, will a remap help towing this wait as didn't realise that land rover where so short on power. I will take advice and listen to criticism, I've been really ill with cancer twice and realise that my Mrs home land is so much better. I've up to £11,000 to spend on the right vehicle. My bother says a discovery but we have a farm in Italy and defender will be better. Thanks
  25. Hi everyone, I've just bought myself a 2008 110 and am excited to be embarking on what I've been told is a greedy full, muddy, frustrating but joyful voyage of discovery. I'm sure I'll be on here asking for advice at some point, probably in the not too distant future and wanted to say Hi. She's in good condition, but there is a lack of servicing history or handbook and I'm fairly sure there'll be one or two skeletons in the cubby hole. Cheers, Paul Gloucester, Grey 2008 110 - 1st Landy!!
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