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Found 26 results

  1. ATTENTION: Land Rover 110 1984

    I have a 1984 110 and i wanted to know if i can fit the new defender doors with the up and down windows hopefully electrical ones. I just want to know if they fit and if they do which models are the right fit,
  2. 110 Rear Wiper replacement

    Hello, the rear wiper blade on my 1990 110 has / is disintegrating. I went to my local Halfords however they no longer stock a replacement. Can anyone suggest somewhere else that would? I have attached a picture of the arm and blade fitting. The alternative, I guess, would be swap the wiper arm for one that will accept a 'modern' blade. Would anyone have any suggestions regarding that please? regards, Richard
  3. Awning for 110 rear end

    Looking to get an awning for the back end of the 110. Have already got a home-made small one of the typical self-supporting variety - a simple square of fabric on struts to keep off rain - but what I'm looking for is one of the small tent style that are described as 'drive-away awnings'. These are typically of the hooped pole design to make a small tunnel with a chunk of extra fabric on the rear to fasten onto the vehicle and a normal zipped tent door on the front. Found this one which is closest so far as the rear portal seems pretty tall and wide. There's plenty available for VW and other campervans, but there's one major problem buying sight-unseen - most campervans have sliding doors so the outward-opening door on the 110 can be a problem. I've found several different brands that look good, but their rear access to the vehicle - sometimes a zipped door or a flap - usually covered with a 'tunnel' of fabric to fasten to the vehicle roof or gutter - is too small to allow the LR door to swing inside. So my question is - anyone know for definite from personal experience of any such style of awning that allows a 110 rear door to easily open into it?
  4. Early to late 110 axle swap

    Hi not sure if this has been talked about before or not but I have an defender 110 with the drum braked Salisbury axle which has blown the diff and halfshafts due to excessive play I think. My question is are the newer 110 axles with the smaller diff housing size and disk brakes the same ratio as my old Salisbury, as I would like the higher clearance for off road. Cheers.
  5. Inner fenders, rear

    Has anyone any experience with these? Defender rear wheel arches http://www.lokari.de/epages/62716287.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62716287/Products/IKF-0879-0880-B
  6. How deep can I go in my 110?

    Hi, you can tell I'm a relative Land Rover newbie by the simplicity of the question. In this case, last night I had to pick-up my daughter from the other side of the Peak District after all trains from Manchester to Sheffield and Leeds were cancelled due to the floods and a fallen tree. I had to go through two fairly deep floods which had swamped a few cars but there were still some nutters who presumably think that by driving through at speed is the best course of action. Anyhow, the question is, without the wading plugs (but with axle breathers right up to the top of the bulkhead), what is the deepest water I can go through? Is it higher than the bottom of the bellhousing / timing cover?
  7. Best Vehicle for towing

    Hi guys I've just joined as thinking of my first defender, had a couple range rovers. Question, I know the answer is over loaded but have no choice. I've got a 4.3 ton chevy which is coming to Italy on the back of a trailer, as I said I know I'm gonna be to,d it's over weight. I'm think of a 90 to do the job as it with be kept and upgraded when in Italy, will a remap help towing this wait as didn't realise that land rover where so short on power. I will take advice and listen to criticism, I've been really ill with cancer twice and realise that my Mrs home land is so much better. I've up to £11,000 to spend on the right vehicle. My bother says a discovery but we have a farm in Italy and defender will be better. Thanks
  8. New Owner says Hi

    Hi everyone, I've just bought myself a 2008 110 and am excited to be embarking on what I've been told is a greedy full, muddy, frustrating but joyful voyage of discovery. I'm sure I'll be on here asking for advice at some point, probably in the not too distant future and wanted to say Hi. She's in good condition, but there is a lack of servicing history or handbook and I'm fairly sure there'll be one or two skeletons in the cubby hole. Cheers, Paul Gloucester, Grey 2008 110 - 1st Landy!!
  9. Hi Folks, Getting excited now. Picking up my 1997 Defender 300Tdi 110 CSW tomorrow. Will be bringing it down to Bristol. Wondering if folk can recommend a good garage that can do servicing on it. A garage that knows how to treat these classic vehicles and give them the correct loving - if you take my meaning. Simon...
  10. Hi Folks, Just bought a 1997 Defender 110 12 seater 300Tdi CSW. Hopefully picking it up this Friday. Before then need to sort out insurance. Can do the usual compare-the-whatever.com, however, could folk recommend any particular insurance company and/or set expectations on how much should be paying for this. Not planning on using it for "extreme" off road either. Thanks, Simon...
  11. Hi Folks, Been looking at a Defender 110 today and noticed some support plates under both of the rear wheel arches - see attached photograph. Can folk tell me whether they are "standard". Must say never noticed them before when looking at other Defenders but cannot claim to be experienced in anyway. Thanks, Simon...
  12. What on earth is this noise?

    What on earth is this noise? I spent a good hour lying underneath my Puma 110 CSW yesterday looking for the source of this noise. Its hard to describe, Its sounds like a slightly lesser version of having an empty Ifor Williams trailer on the back – or a slightly bigger version of a very loose Roof Rack bracket. I tightened up a couple of vaguely loose ‘things’ but its made no difference. I've now been round the entire vehicle – I cant find anything loose? (The whole time I didn’t get one single drip of oil on me – should I be concerned?) Any help would be appreciated
  13. Hi everyone 1st post for me, but have been stalking about on here for snippets of info for years. Thanks to you all I've kept my old landy running for the last 8 years. I have a project under way to swap my 3.5 weber equipped v8 for a 4.6 bosch from a p38, I'm also keen to use the power steering from the p38. Anyone who has done this in the past and has any tips please advise? I'm assuming that the standard exhaust manifolds from the p38 won't fit and that the standard 3.5 will be too small? I'm thinking of fitting a pair of these http://stores.spencerashley.com/rover-v8-diy-421-exhaust-manifold-kit-to-suit-kitcar-hot-rod/ in the 2.5" flavour, and then sticking a td5 exhaust to it? Am also thinking that in order to make the power steering upgrade as painless as possible I'll keep the serp front end and get a mega jolt igition setup. I know that you might well recommend going the full mega squirt package (I'm planning on phoning Nige when i get back from work!) but my problem is the vehicle is registered in France and they are a bit strict on changing things under the bonnet.. So to start with i'll stick with the weber until i can work out how to legally put the efi back on. I am also replacing both foot wells whilst the engine is out, so as i mentioned anyone who has done this and has any input to share please do, Thanks in advance, Sean.
  14. my 1989 110 V8 Truck cab was carted away yesterday to start the process of new Chassis, Maybe new Bulkhead, new Gearbox and clutch - the removal promoted my daughters to ask whether there was anything I wanted for Christmas towards the rebuild?? I was so surprised my mind was blank (again) Any Ideas? items below £100 and stocking fillers (below £10) Cheers
  15. I mentioned this before on the forum. Well I gave it some thought and the £6k for a german or french one is out of my league. So after some deliberation I decided to build one myself. Apologies that its a mix of metric and imperial sizes but I'm sure you'll understand. Pic above is not quite to scale but shows roughly what it will be like (have not drawn roof rack on this yet but it will only add 50 or 60mm height) I didn't want to have the vehicle off the road whilst I built this, as I need to use it regularly, so it needed to be 'easy' and not involve taking the van apart. Some of these lifting roofs use the existing LR roof and raise it on a hinged plinth which is fitted between the old roof section and the van sides to allow the lifting/opening. However this means forming a curved piece for both above the windscreen and the shape of the back door, which is complicated and labour intensive (as well as needing to take the roof off.) To get round these 'problems' I thought I'd use the existing roof as a base, working up out of the existing gutter to form the sides and back from 3mm alloy sat in the gutter, with a front piece bolted on, and put a hinged lid on it and then once its fitted, sealed and I'm satisfied it works, I can lift it up, get inside on top with the jigsaw and cut out as much of the 'old' roof as I want, retaining enough around the vehicle to bolt the new one on to. Various other mods across the vehicle width to support the bed platfrom in the roof area will help to retain structural integrity and I reckon the finished item will be stronger than original. A roof rack made of simple alloy flat bar welded to the top on its edge with alloy tube across, will also help to make this even stronger (and I can carry my canoes on it). I searched the alloy extrusion folks catalogues and found two sections that are perfect - an unequal z section which works for the 'base' giving a good sized upstand to prevent weather ingress, and onto which I can fasten the lower part of the fabric sides, and which also has enough 'width' to allow a gas strut to fit in between. Above that, the 'closing' section is L alloy, inverted, which has bags of overlap up into which the fabric can be fastened and allows sufficient space for the loose material to pull inside when the roof is lowered and closed. Pic above shows sectional mockup with unequal Z section at bottom, with inverted L section on top, with 19mm box which will be basis for sheet on the roof. The black line is where the rubber gasket will go to seal the lid when closed. Note sufficient space for fabric to pull inside. To retain the front slope (windscreen angle) and give some wind shedding ability I've had the front section above the windscreen bent by my local alloy fabricators (who will do the difficult welding for me). This is because the stock extrusions are all right angles and wont work with the slope backwards. Above diagram shows section above windscreen to be folded by local alloy fabricators after I've fitted it perfectly (!) to windscreen. And a possible gasket solution (I have several solutions all of which should be fine.) Weight. A conventional roof tent is between 100 and 200 lbs, depending on make and size, and that's without a roof rack to support it. Add a rack which will be at least 50lbs and the overall weight on top is between 150 and 250lbs. My existing roof rack weighs about 50lbs and the roof section I'll remove is probably another 20-30lbs. So I'm 'losing' about 70lbs or so. The new lifting alloy roof will come in about 140lbs max with internal bits and bobs, so deducting the weight of the current roof rack and old roof thats being removed I'm only adding around 70lbs and at the very most 100lbs to the vehicle(and that is including roof rack). That's not anywhere near compromising vehicle stability. Sides and alloy Z and L sections are 3mm and roof is 1.2mm sheet on 19x19x 1.6mm box subframe. Height. Keeping it to less than 2.2m shipping container height. The new roof will end up only about 5 inches higher than the current rooftop (plus 2 inches for roof rack), so somewhere around 7 inches in total, but still less than a normal roof with roof rack (never mind adding a roof tent). There will be no sloping top on the roof above windscreen (like on the original roof) as it will be flat all the way through, so it looks a bit 'top-hatty' but I can live with that to have room for my feet when lying in bed! Speaking of which: the length from windscreen top to back door is 9 feet. Deduct a bed length of 6' 6'' (fitted in two sections) and that leaves a 2' 6'' gap at rear end which gives anything up to 10 feet of standing head room with the roof up and allows me to climb up and get onto the bed, and I'm fitting a small sink on the passenger side and a cooker on the driver side. The bed base in the roof area will be in two sections with the front piece bolted firmly in place to the sides and braced to be a structural member, and the second section towards the rear will be lift-up and remove and during the day will 'nest' on top of the front section, and can be pulled to the rear and popped in place for sleeping. That two part method allows a good amount of standing room for about 6 feet from the back door when the bed base is 'nested' and will make moving about inside easier. Ladder access to bed will either be rungs built into kitchen sink base unit and cooker base unit opposite (so two bed access points) OR a small alloy ladder fixed externally for roof access which can be unclipped from the outside and pulled inside at night and used to climb up on either side as required. Anyway some rough plans should accompany this, as well as pics. Plans not to scale, just for guidance. Although the extrusion code numbers are there in case you want to have a go. 3mm might seem overkill but when I added up the weight of using thinner stuff, but needing a stronger subframe to support it, and then the complexity of fabricating that, well.... 3mm sheet was an easy winner, cheaper and lighter. I'll try and keep photos coming so you can see it evolve. I should be in the welders in the next few weeks all things going to plan to have it all stitched together. Above diagram shows section of roof with extrusion ID codes and dimensions and a rough idea of construction method (not to scale). Above diagram shows gas strut fitting and fabric sides. Ply template for windscreen cut to fit then dimensions and shape transferred to ally. Ready to cut. Once its cut with jigsaw the local ally fabricator boys fold the front for me..........(with their years of experience)........... ......and do a lovely accurate job - and that's the front almost ready. The front gives the dimensions from which I can work backwards and establish all the other dimensions. Did it this way to allow leeway in the folding process, then use the final folded dimensions of the front as the 'gospel'. Working from back forwards makes getting front dimensions super-critical and more stressful for folders than necessary. Using the gutter as a working surface gives a 'fixed point' from which everything can be established when combined with the accurate front fold. Sides cut, offered up, and 'bodged' to get the right angles and length. Lots of wooden wedges and a shedload of swearing. Doing this on your own is not recommended. 3m long wobbly alloy is a pig to control. Especially if its windy! And you have one on each side! Back cut and fitted too. Sides then able to be cut to length. Lots of length allowed in case of errors. Rear aligned and finally cut, wooden wedges to hold it all in place. Everything level and perfectly aligned and ready for fitting the unequal Z section to the top of these pieces (left and right side and rear.) front has no Z section because it's folded. Above all is aligned and wedged, measured, and checked by eye for level all round. Unequal Z fitted and cut. Bit rough but within the tolerances of the welding. Front detail above windscreen ready for pop riveting the z section permanently to the vertical sides/rear. Small bolts to hold in place temporarily whilst I cut the 45 deg mitre at rear, and the effing awful multi-angle mitre at the front which has both a 90 degree angle and the 'whatever the hell the front slope is' angle. Front angle cut is a nightmare. All long cuts were done with a jigsaw, short right-angle mitres with a chop saw, and the multi-angle ones done with a jigsaw, hacksaw, oscillating tool and my teeth. I've just finished pop-riveting the Z section to sides and sealed the joint with Tiger Seal, so its ready for welding. Once thats done I can get the width for the lifting top and get that cut.
  16. I was just wondering if a front axle from a 1983 110" would go into a 1983 Range Rover. I happen to have both of these here, but the 110 is terminally rusty and the Rangie is our everyday 4WD. So I wouldn't mind the 110 axle with bigger brakes and more easily upgraded, (i.e., Ashcroft), CVs and stub axles and so on. I know that the brakes would need a little change in the pipework since it would be going from two lines to each caliper to one line each, the springs will fit, the steering should fit, diff is the same, (though I'll be putting in a Truetrac as in the rear), but are the radius arms the same and, a big question: is the track the same? I've got alloys on the Rangie I'm keeping so I was planning on replacing the 110 wheel studs with RYF500010 studs for alloys.
  17. how much is my 110 worth?

    hi there i was thinking of upgrading to a newer 110 but not really sure what mine is worth as its had a few modifications ? heres a list of things i can remember 2" lift kit britpart heavy duty springs all round with pro comp shocks goodrich brake lines polybushed qt castor correction arms rocksliders 300tdi engine conversion larger intercooler slightly tuned injector pump and turbo electric fan a bar with wipac lights roof bar 285/75/16 insa turbo tyres on 8j steel wheels (only 5 months old) side exit exhaust (straight through) cubby box dog guard recently had the outriggers welded and new 2nd row crossmember front and rear diff guards ajustable panhard rod return to center steering shock probably had more but cant remember at the moment and the year is 1986 any help would be great even if i dont upgrade it would be handy to know for insurance many thanks,ben
  18. 2nd row defender seats

    Anyone put some high back second row seats into a 110 that weren't exmoor trim? Need something quality as they will have child seats and be in the truck for a lot of years. The exmoor ones look good but are pretty spendy at over $600 USD a piece. I'd like to mount left and right side and leave the middle clear. I live in Calgary, Canada, so my options in dealing directly with defender suppliers is often limited. Advice on what to look for when looking at other vehicles seats would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  19. What on earth is this noise? I spent a good hour lying underneath my Puma 110 CSW looking for the source of a noise. See below / elsewhere under "What on earth is this noise?" Anyway - I found this - and was wondering what it was? Cheers
  20. Hello everybody, I'm new to this forum, well as a member; I have used the wealth on information on here numerous times and thought it probably time to give something back, well if I have any useful info! And be able to ask specific questions. I've owned a Ex MoD 110 for a few years and put a 200tdi disco engine in about 2 years ago. I have now removed the disco engine and replaced it with a 200tdi def engine with all the defender bits and pieces to make it as much of a genuine 200tdi defender as possible. Whilst before was a quick engine swap this time round has turned into a bit of a rebuild with more emphasis on doing it properly, which brings me on to my problem... I fitted a 2.5 TD exhaust to go with the first (disco) 200tdi engine and a steve parker downpipe. However I would like to use the slightly larger correct 200tdi exhaust this time but understand it is quite different from the 2.5td exhaust. Does anybody know what exactly is different, other than having hangers as opposed to clamps? does it follow the same route simply needing the hanger's welded on or is there more to it? I have heard that the 300tdi exhaust (presumably minus downpipe) is a better fit but I'm a bit lost on this one so any help would be appreciated! Many Thanks, Jack
  21. Two PDWA questions

    I have two questins about the PDWA valve in a 110. Looking at the parts manual I see it is installed with the switch facing downwards. Mine is upwards. Could that somehow be a problem for the functioning of the device, or with brake bleeding? Also, mine came out of the box with two brass 'adapters' attached to it, just like in this pic: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/NRC7871.jpg I've removed them because I assumed they were adapters for a different thread, but when they were lying on the bench I noticed the thread is the same. But dont see anyting special about them, can just peek straight trough. Do they have any function and should i put them back in?
  22. Higher rear seats in a 110

    Hi All, I read somewhere that it makes it more comfortable for the passengers if you lift the seats higher! I think they were doing this to Defender 110 that give Safari tours in Africa Has anyone done this? Can you buy a kit in the UK. Cheers, Mike
  23. Battery Drain when standing

    Hi guys, My 110 has a battery drain of about 0.13Amps when standing. I've had a quick poke around, and it still seems to drain despite my best efforts at removing fuses. I've fitted a battery cut of switch which "solves" the problem, but I was hoping I could get some insight from you guys. 1) what should be the maximum battery drain when the ignition is off? (bare in mind I've got a 3.5l V8 with LPG, and no ECU), so I'm thinking just the clock and radio presets should get power? 2) With a plenum LPG system, is it likely to have a fuse elsewhere other than around the main fuse box that I have to search for? 3), Is testing across fuses with a multimeter for voltage drop a reasonable way of telling if there is any current flowing? (even if it should not be), or am I extrapolating my school physics too far? Cheers Guys Mike
  24. Having read loads of threads, this is my first post on the forum, so hi everyone! Here's my situation: 2 months ago my defender wouldn't start unless I gave the starter motor a smack with a wrench. I replaced the motor, which was covered in oil, which leaks slowly from the rear of the engine. This morning when I tried to start it up, I only heard a click from the starter relay. I tried whacking the starter motor, and then it span fine. other relevant info: Both batteries are charged fully. I think the oil leak was caused by the previous owner way overfilling the engine oil. I fitted a battery isolator switch on the cable between the battery and starter about a month ago. Its started fine everyday since then. I'm wondering if the oil could be causing the starter motor to jam up? I'm hoping that now the correct amount of oil is in the engine the leak might stop?! I've only had the defender 3 months, and any advice or suggestions would be very gratefully received! cheers Matt
  25. Hi, I am looking for a snorkel / raised air intake for a 110 300tdi CSW that does not increase the overall height of the vehicle. It just scrapes into the car park at work as it is! Does anyone have suggestions of a model suitable or one that can be adapted? Many thanks