Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '200'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Blogs

  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 4 results

  1. Hi, My 200 tdi has suddenly become hard to start if it hasn't run for a while. If it has just run it fires up straight away. When starting it will crank over and over and over then catch and stop then catch again, run very lumpily then start running normally with a blip of the throttle. There is always white smoke on start up which clears as it heats up. Once running it is fine, there is plenty of power and I can't detect any issues. No hunting, surging etc etc. My plugs are only a few years old but I haven't taken them out to test on the bench. I'm getting 10v at each one My battery is at 12.5v Earth strap is fine (tested with jump cable from battery negative to chassis and also engine) Starter isn't sluggish and spins at normal speed New fuel filter fitted New leak off pipes between injectors fitted (but not pipe back to FIP) FIP was replaced in 2011 Injectors have had no love since I bought the car (100K +) so that is on the list to do. Today I took out the fuel filter housing bleed screw and unplugged the FIP stop solenoid wire and cranked the engine over while watching it on a video camera. There was no fuel coming out of the bleed hole despite plenty of cranking. I then replaced the solenoid wire and tried again and there was instantly a gush of fuel from the bleed hole. Now. I'm not the brightest sandwich in the tool box but I'm pretty sure the lift pump is manual so I think the FIP solenoid wire has no bearing on the lift pump and this was a coincidence. Which means that fuel is possibly leaking back from the filter back to the tank and I had to crank it a lot to prime the line again. Based on the symptoms and bits and bobs I've played with. What tests should I try and what should I be looking at next? Many thanks.
  2. I'm of the opinion that the cylinder head on my tdi 200 isn't in the best of health, worn valve guides and the like, etc and was thinking of getting it reconditioned. The two serious reconditioners, Turners and ACR, both have a "performance" version of the head for not a lot more money. Has anyone fitted one of these heads? What was the experience before and after? I'm just wondering if it's worth it? G.
  3. Hi all! I have came to the conclusiĆ³n that the 200 Tdi Discovery that my brother gave me (rotten and with broken engine) is beyond repair. I will buy my own Discovery. Secondhand late 200 and early 300 are in the same price range. The preparation of the 300 will be cheaper, because I save the 10 to 24 spline conversion (I could use a 200 and 10 spline lockers and HD shafts, but they are more expensive than 24 spline ones). In the 300 I can fit a EGR blanking kit but, what about electronics? A friend bought the "spider" bypass loom AMR4956 for the immobilizer, but was unable to locate where to plug it (suposedly the connector is located at the back of the ICE). I have two spare 200Tdi engines. The big question is: can I fit the non-immobilizer injection pump from the 200 as a direct replacement for the 300 one? What about the injectors? That will create an absolutely electronic free 300. As some of you will know, one of my "vapour build" projects is a 20 speed Mitsibishi-Rover gearbox. The 300 is suposed to be located further front into the engine bay, something desirable when fitting a longer gearbox. I have tried to tell the 200 vs 300 engine location difference by looking to propshaft lengths, but they are the same. Seems that R380 is longer than LT77. How much? LT77 is 94cm long drum brake to belhousing/flywheel housing joint.
  4. Basically, ive got a petrol Series 3.. Am going to convert to 200tdi. Question being, how is best to connect up the return fuel pipe? Should i get the proper bit that screws in the tank, from a diesel, so it has the feed and return pipe? Or just drill and solder a fitting to the one i already have? Then it gets complicated... I've got dual fuel tanks. The feed goes through a diverter switch, connecting either tank, and the fuel gauge sender of the relevant tank. Are there any diverter switch that switch feed and return? Or will i need to get a seperate switch and link the two some how? Any thoughts on this / how to go about linking two switches? Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy