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  1. Hi folks, need a clutch kit, and I'm baffled at the price difference found searching kits on ebay. Cheapest I found for a full HD kit with fork and alloy release bearing came in at £77, which is crazy cheap, then everything just goes up from that, was reading that someone recommended the Britpart HD kit? I've always tended towards a valeo kit but they're twice the price. Tell me what you can recommend? I've put links to the kits I was looking at below. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-1-200TDI-300TDI-NEW-CLUTCH-HEAVY-DUTY-FORK-KIT-LR009366-/291517348920?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5551K-Land-Rover-Discovery-200-Tdi-EXTREME-USE-Clutch-Kit-Release-Fork-Bearing-/291397876666?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-200TDI-300TDI-VALEO-CLUTCH-HEAVY-DUTY-FORK-KIT-LR009366HD-/292150566359?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
  2. Hi all, long time lurker here even though I don't post much. Hoping someone can help. I've just finished rebuilding a Disco 200TDi that I bought to fit to my ex-military 110. It had damaged bores so I've completely rebuilt it but not touched the fuel injection pump or turbo. I tried the first startup this weekend which was partly successful - the engine is running quite fast with a lot of smoke from the exhaust and the throttle has no effect on the revs either way. This is the first time I've rebuilt an engine so although I've tried to do it right there's always the possibility I've messed something up. Does anyone recognise this problem and have any suggestions for a fix please? Thanks in advance!
  3. Oddly enough on my 200tdi i’ve got a 300tdi Bulkhead which uses a different metal dash support. (the metal frame underneath the dash)(200tdi has tabs inline with the vehicle whilst 300s bolt parallel to the bulkhead) . i’ve attempted bending and modifying it to fit it but with no success. i believe i found the part on lr workshop however can’t find the part for sale anywhere new or used. Could anyone help me source this part.
  4. Hi all, The is just a PSA regarding a 200Tdi head I was watching on the most ubiquitous online auction site. I was interested in bidding on it as the price was excellent (starting and winning bid $250) and I have read about the propensity for these heads to crack. I wanted a backup since I am terrified of what awaits in my engine bay when I check the internals. Anyway I noticed a crack between the intake and exhaust valves and politely informed the seller. It seems someone placed a winning bid on it today. I don't know whether or not this is of the catastrophic variety, but I wanted to let you all know in case one of you or someone you know were the winning bidder and would like to back out. The name of the auction was, "Land Rover 200tdi Aluminum Cylinder Head Defender Range Rover Discovery", shipping from Whitesboro, Texas. All the best.
  5. Hi guys, I hope you are all doing well during these challenging days. I am new to this forum, but have been a rover enthusiast for ages. My current rover is a 1989 range rover converted to a 200tdi. I have gone through an exhaustive process of tuning the FIP noting every change and recording the resulting data, both qualitative and quantitative. I would like to post my method soon, when I have a little bit of time, because maybe it will be useful to those who need to start over without any reference to the factory settings. My FIP was not original, as it was obviously from a 300Tdi with provisions for the EGR fitment. The anti-tamper collar and plug were previously removed and the diaphragm had already been adjusted and it was a bit of a dog. Anyway, I worked through a process to tune the FIP from scratch, based on the fundamentals of each adjustment and it seems to be running powerfully and efficiently without any smoke issues. If there is interest I will post my method. As to my question of EGTs, it is well documented that ~730 C is a hard maximum for sustained temperatures in the 200/300Tdi, with some scattered anecdotes of people running much higher. The main factor for this limit is usually linked to damage to turbine vanes. My question is, does anyone have reliable knowledge about the safe limits of the other engine components, such as the head and pistons? I have an aftermarket Billet Hybrid Turbo Turbocharger CHRA, from Turbo Rebuild Ltd, for which they recommend a maximum safe limit of 850 C (1562 F) and I am wondering how much I can safely, if at all, push the rest of the engine beyond 730 C. Currently, my engine is pulling hard up to ~4000 RPM at 16 PSI of boost, but the EGTs rise quickly during hard acceleration and will easily exceed 1400 C on a steep incline . I know I can get a few more PSI out of the turbo (maximum recommended 22 PSI) which will reduce EGTs, but right now I am unwilling to go beyond 18 or 19 PSI, as I do not know the history of the engine or the condition of the head gasket. At the moment I can easily moderate the temps with my foot, and keep it between 1200 and 1350 when pushing it hard on the highway, especially while overtaking vehicles or climbing hills. I like having the extra power when I need it, but I also want to be able to keep my eyes on the road during those times rather than down on my poorly located gauge. I plan on refining the FIP settings to get the temps down a little more, but I hope to keep the level of performance where it currently is. Thanks!
  6. Hi All, since I first put the Discovery 200 tdi in my 2a I have never been happy with the different pulley widths ( 13mm on crank and water pump but 10mm on the alternator) and it seemed to eat fan belts as the 10mm ones sat very deep in two of the pulleys. I recently bought and fitted one of these https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/200tdi-alternator-v-grove-pulley/ and I now use a standard power steering belt ERR810 (Dayco 13A1025) and although I took the water pump pulley off to fit it , as I did it want to strain the bearings , this is just the right length for the discovery A127 65amp alternator mounted on a series 3 alternator bracket (with spacers of course)
  7. On my 200tdi i’ve been searching for the correct indicator cancel ring that attaches to my wheel. i have a classic 4spoke defender wheel. any idea on what the cancel ring is and where i can buy one. i’ve bought one before but it doesn’t even fit on my steering column. please help :/
  8. As title suggests, I've recently noticed since installing the VGT turbo to my aged 200tdi, that there's a little more oil pull through into the air filter housing as per the standard factory set-up - I used to get some oil in the filter can top section with the original turbo, but since the normal operating inlet pressure is a fair bit higher now +1bar, I think it must be dragging more through from the crank case, I replaced the breather pot with the Ali sports one which hasn't helped either. Short term I've just put the breather air outlet into a bottle with a perforated top section, and I had a mind of just installing a catch tank - So having a bit of time to mull the problem over, I was thinking that the increased air flow from the higher inlet pressure was actually pulling the oil ladened blow by gas through the cyclone before it got chance to separate out.... so why not slow it down? - so then though why not just put an orifice into the breather gas/air pipe at the filter end... anyone any thoughts? Mav
  9. Hi, I've just walked 90 minutes home, leaving the 110 parked up. Although these event may not be linked, here's what's happened: a while back a steel line to a front caliper got mashed so I hammered it over to stop the leak and thought 'better deal with that soon' cos 3 amigos good, 3 brakes less so. Last week I fixed it and had to re-bleed a little but there was clearly summit else wrong. Very hard to get any brake fluid from the front nipples and the servo started making a big hiss every time the pedal was pressed. Drove around for a few days with no assistance, decided all was well with brakes at wheels but needed a servo, which I ordered but do not have yet (lrdirect?, not so much...). Anyway, tonight the front brakes are suddenly binding so severely that the heat build-up/expansion makes it undriveable - I had to use low range to get it safely off the road, it would no longer drive in high. So, I guess I need to add a master cylinder to the shopping list? Surely there's no other possibility...???? BUT I'd be interested to hear if anybody's has a similar tale, cos I've had brakes fail 'off' before, but never 'on'. Or am I missing something ? Cheers
  10. Hello folks, short intro first: owner for 7 years, went through seals and one master cyl. replacement (2017), had problem with slave seals replacement (reported to forum here: ( ). Soemtimes (not allways) I felt clutch slipping when driving in 5th after sudden accelerator pedal pushed to the floor - only the engine responds with higher revs, but no change in vehicle speed. Seldom gearbox rejected to shift in reverse, but on second try it went. Since last year, in a two months a tea spoon of clutch fluid would be needed to top-up the reservoir. About a month ago LR hasn't been used for about two weeks, it has been parked in sloped street, nose down (if that is important). Car was left there in perfectly running condition. Was in a hurry, jumped in and went off. Just after start it was clear that any gear cannot be selected w/o high force and grinding sound. Because I was in a hurry I continued and finished short trip w/o clutch. In a following days a check was made and conclusion was that every gear can be selected when engine off, but none when engine on :-(. In next days clutch was bled, no bubbles, only black fluid (can be seen in reservir as well), still cannot select any gear when engine running. Idea popped my mind to try to extend clutch plate travel by extending clutch slave rod travel by setting clutch pedal to higher distance from floor (than stated in manual). And voila! I can change gears even when engine running w/o grinding sounds! With a lot of confidence in own LR mechanical skills jumped in and went off. Cold shower - grinding sound again. Then new test has been made: when engine idling any gear cen be selected, but on higher revs - not any! For about two weeks now I drive LR 3 times a week, change gears up and down with double declutching (w/o accelerator pedal in between) and more time between gears (in order to cease engine revs). No any other problem evident. My question is: should I try to replace master + slave + flexi hose first, and then to go complete clutch replacement (plate, spring plate, rel. bearing, lever, spigot, rear main seal), or to go to complete set replacement at once (to shorten repair time), or there are other problems (gearbox...) that could produce problems like mine? Sorry for long post... Regards, Ivan.
  11. I have a 1989 Defender 90 fitted with a 200TDi. It has been garaged for quite a while, but out of the weather and no obvious deterioration. At the last MoT it needed a new steering box which was acquired but never fitted. It must have been about 3 years since it was last started and with a fresh battery it started very easily, but the smoke, oh the volume of smoke! I let it run for a while but it showed no signs of diminishing. I've started it a few times since and with the same volume of smoke (as this is being started in a council garage in a built up area, there are limits to how long I dare leave it running!) Any thoughts? It was an engine with no issues when it was stored. Cheers Peter
  12. Can anyone tell me the part number of the retaining sleeve circled in red? They come in plastic or metal. Thanks
  13. My son has a 1992 (K reg) landrover 90 that he drove for a few years before deciding to strip it down to do it up. He has now moved away and would like to sell it. The question is how much is this worth, in a partly disembled state and missing a gearbox and tranfer case? Would it be better to try and get a gearbox etc so I am selling a complete vehicle or is it not worth it? Where is the best place to sell the vehicle - ebay or is there a site for enthusiasts that I should try. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  14. Hi all, I've managed to snap the barbed hose fitting off the banjo fitting on one of the injectors on my 200tdi. Numpty. I know that these banjos take a 6mm bolt and the barb fits a 3.2mm or 1/8 ID pipe. But I can't find such a thing for sale anywhere and want to avoid replacing the whole spill rail if possible. Can anyone help with a source for a replacement banjo union? Cheers!
  15. Hi all the off road project (200tdi disco running gear) has been stood for around a year now while we have been building the workshop. Anyways.... jumped in it today and the clutch pedal is ridiculously heavy to push down and once down will not return..... if you manually pull the pedal up we still have drive and vehicle moves freely. Checked the simple things like return springs etc no issue there. Any idea on a quick fix to look for just so we can move it about and get it the workshop a little easier 😂
  16. Hi everyone hope you can help me with this. From what I can work out the cooling system froze up in the cold weather we've had. It did have anti freeze in it but obviously not enough or something. Now water pours out as of a hole above the drain point for the cooling system as fast as I can pour it in, hopefully the pictures will make it a bit clearer. If anyone can let me know what this could be and how bad it possibly is, I'm worried that it's pretty bad at the minute and then engines coming out. thanks
  17. Hi to All, I am in the process of rebuilding a 200tdi defender engine I recently purchased. After inspecting the cylinder head I noticed some marks next to the valves as shown in the pictures. Does anyone know what is this and what caused it? Do I ignore it or more attention is needed? Thanks in advance!!
  18. I've just done a clutch change on my 200tdi defender, don't remember removing an earth from the starter, but it clicks when turn the key and battery seems ok. Haven't tried hitting it with a stick yet.. Haynes manual suggests starter should be earthed to engine block? - some internet reading says this was not present to start with...? Never had any probelms starting pre clutch change. Since photobucket has shafted the interweb, does anyone have a photo of this area, as I've had a quick look but couldn't see any loose wires in the area.
  19. Hi all, I have a Defender 91" 200tdi and recently the clutch pedal has started to feel soft and the biting point has dropped. On one occasion it was very hard to change gears. The clutch is about 2yrs old heavy duty ( last time it went it was the bearing/ pivot ball I think). Pedal has always been slightly soft for the first inch, but now is noticeable softer till about an inch or two off the bottom. No leaks or noticeable drop in fluid in the reservoir. I thought it might just need the pedal to be adjusted which I've done but still no luck. Any suggestions? Cheers, Ben
  20. Hey, need some help with this Bought a 200tdi snorkel on eBay, it came without any adaptor to go inside the engine bay. It's a 200tdi disco engine in an old defender and fitting an air box seems more hassle then I want so planning on just running a pipe direct from the snorkel to the turbo and fitting an air filter up the top of my snorkel but have no real idea how to get a pipe to run and seal between my snorkel which is just bolted to the outside over the top of the old air intake grill. any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit stumped
  21. Hi guys Had a hose blow in the engine bay, chucked coolant everywhere. Replaced the section of hose and topped up the expansion vessel with coolant. Temp gauge still reading off the scale even though the engine block doesn't feel that hot. Is my first point of call the thermostat? Or something else? Thanks
  22. Hi all! I know this has been covered, but i can't find anything thats exact. I brought a 200tdi back to the states when i was stationed in the UK, and have since been doing a 13 month re build. Currently i want to install ONLY A SPEEDO form a td5 (not the whole instrument pack). For the life of me, i can't find data on just doing that; everything talks mostly about doing the whole thing. I know that i need the transducer, 3 core wire, and the speedo. I would rather not butcher up a td5 wire harness for this, so what can i do with the items mentioned? Thanks guys! Trying to spread the defender love back here in the lower 48! Andy
  23. Hello, I was wallowing under my 1989 110 SW 200TDi replacing the front diff input flange and seal to stop a leak there. (The axle breather is free and clear. ) Looking up I noticed the oil pressure switch is covered in, engine, oil. The oil appears to be leaking out at the switch. The switch itself works as the light on the dash seems to work as expected. So I'm thinking of ordering up a new oil pressure switch and fitting it. Is there anything else I should think about when doing this that it might be? ( I didn't get time to get a spanner on it and nip it up which I might try before replacing TBH. ) cheers, Rich T
  24. Hi there,I've bought a 200tdi which currently sits in my donor discovery. It hadn't ran for four years. I got it running today and at low rpm it sounded perfect. However I gave it a little throttle and a noise from the front of the engine came about. It now makes a noise at idle and up through the rev range. I took off all belts to eliminate alternator PAS etc. The noise still remains and sounds like it is from the crankshaft pulley area. It isn't a terribly bad noise but is a mechanical rubbing sound. I have checked that the crankshaft pulley seems tight and the mud washer/deflector seems tight and in place. The rubber in the vibration damper is perished and cracked in a few places but it isn't coming away from the damper. Once i have removed this engine i will change the cambelt so i will need to remove the crankshaft pulley anyway, just wondered if anyone had any ideas whilst I can still get it running in the disco.Thanks in advance!
  25. Greetings All ! I was given a Durite oil pressure gauge & sender and want to fit this to the 300 Tdi in the 110. However - one obviously needs some sort of "splitter" for this, so both the warning light switch and the gauge sender unit get to the (lack of..) oil pressure. I failed so far to find something to solve this/ What can I use please ?
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