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Found 64 results

  1. This is a father and son build , the plan is to leave the bodywork alone as it’s fairly solid although it has a few battle scars (and I hate bodywork/painting) but have it mechanically &chassis sound. so here’s the patient
  2. Hi, I've just walked 90 minutes home, leaving the 110 parked up. Although these event may not be linked, here's what's happened: a while back a steel line to a front caliper got mashed so I hammered it over to stop the leak and thought 'better deal with that soon' cos 3 amigos good, 3 brakes less so. Last week I fixed it and had to re-bleed a little but there was clearly summit else wrong. Very hard to get any brake fluid from the front nipples and the servo started making a big hiss every time the pedal was pressed. Drove around for a few days with no assistance, decided all was well with brakes at wheels but needed a servo, which I ordered but do not have yet (lrdirect?, not so much...). Anyway, tonight the front brakes are suddenly binding so severely that the heat build-up/expansion makes it undriveable - I had to use low range to get it safely off the road, it would no longer drive in high. So, I guess I need to add a master cylinder to the shopping list? Surely there's no other possibility...???? BUT I'd be interested to hear if anybody's has a similar tale, cos I've had brakes fail 'off' before, but never 'on'. Or am I missing something ? Cheers
  3. Hello folks, short intro first: owner for 7 years, went through seals and one master cyl. replacement (2017), had problem with slave seals replacement (reported to forum here: ( ). Soemtimes (not allways) I felt clutch slipping when driving in 5th after sudden accelerator pedal pushed to the floor - only the engine responds with higher revs, but no change in vehicle speed. Seldom gearbox rejected to shift in reverse, but on second try it went. Since last year, in a two months a tea spoon of clutch fluid would be needed to top-up the reservoir. About a month ago LR hasn't been used for about two weeks, it has been parked in sloped street, nose down (if that is important). Car was left there in perfectly running condition. Was in a hurry, jumped in and went off. Just after start it was clear that any gear cannot be selected w/o high force and grinding sound. Because I was in a hurry I continued and finished short trip w/o clutch. In a following days a check was made and conclusion was that every gear can be selected when engine off, but none when engine on :-(. In next days clutch was bled, no bubbles, only black fluid (can be seen in reservir as well), still cannot select any gear when engine running. Idea popped my mind to try to extend clutch plate travel by extending clutch slave rod travel by setting clutch pedal to higher distance from floor (than stated in manual). And voila! I can change gears even when engine running w/o grinding sounds! With a lot of confidence in own LR mechanical skills jumped in and went off. Cold shower - grinding sound again. Then new test has been made: when engine idling any gear cen be selected, but on higher revs - not any! For about two weeks now I drive LR 3 times a week, change gears up and down with double declutching (w/o accelerator pedal in between) and more time between gears (in order to cease engine revs). No any other problem evident. My question is: should I try to replace master + slave + flexi hose first, and then to go complete clutch replacement (plate, spring plate, rel. bearing, lever, spigot, rear main seal), or to go to complete set replacement at once (to shorten repair time), or there are other problems (gearbox...) that could produce problems like mine? Sorry for long post... Regards, Ivan.
  4. I have a 1989 Defender 90 fitted with a 200TDi. It has been garaged for quite a while, but out of the weather and no obvious deterioration. At the last MoT it needed a new steering box which was acquired but never fitted. It must have been about 3 years since it was last started and with a fresh battery it started very easily, but the smoke, oh the volume of smoke! I let it run for a while but it showed no signs of diminishing. I've started it a few times since and with the same volume of smoke (as this is being started in a council garage in a built up area, there are limits to how long I dare leave it running!) Any thoughts? It was an engine with no issues when it was stored. Cheers Peter
  5. Can anyone tell me the part number of the retaining sleeve circled in red? They come in plastic or metal. Thanks
  6. My son has a 1992 (K reg) landrover 90 that he drove for a few years before deciding to strip it down to do it up. He has now moved away and would like to sell it. The question is how much is this worth, in a partly disembled state and missing a gearbox and tranfer case? Would it be better to try and get a gearbox etc so I am selling a complete vehicle or is it not worth it? Where is the best place to sell the vehicle - ebay or is there a site for enthusiasts that I should try. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  7. Hi all, I've managed to snap the barbed hose fitting off the banjo fitting on one of the injectors on my 200tdi. Numpty. I know that these banjos take a 6mm bolt and the barb fits a 3.2mm or 1/8 ID pipe. But I can't find such a thing for sale anywhere and want to avoid replacing the whole spill rail if possible. Can anyone help with a source for a replacement banjo union? Cheers!
  8. Hi all the off road project (200tdi disco running gear) has been stood for around a year now while we have been building the workshop. Anyways.... jumped in it today and the clutch pedal is ridiculously heavy to push down and once down will not return..... if you manually pull the pedal up we still have drive and vehicle moves freely. Checked the simple things like return springs etc no issue there. Any idea on a quick fix to look for just so we can move it about and get it the workshop a little easier 😂
  9. Hi everyone hope you can help me with this. From what I can work out the cooling system froze up in the cold weather we've had. It did have anti freeze in it but obviously not enough or something. Now water pours out as of a hole above the drain point for the cooling system as fast as I can pour it in, hopefully the pictures will make it a bit clearer. If anyone can let me know what this could be and how bad it possibly is, I'm worried that it's pretty bad at the minute and then engines coming out. thanks
  10. Hi to All, I am in the process of rebuilding a 200tdi defender engine I recently purchased. After inspecting the cylinder head I noticed some marks next to the valves as shown in the pictures. Does anyone know what is this and what caused it? Do I ignore it or more attention is needed? Thanks in advance!!
  11. I've just done a clutch change on my 200tdi defender, don't remember removing an earth from the starter, but it clicks when turn the key and battery seems ok. Haven't tried hitting it with a stick yet.. Haynes manual suggests starter should be earthed to engine block? - some internet reading says this was not present to start with...? Never had any probelms starting pre clutch change. Since photobucket has shafted the interweb, does anyone have a photo of this area, as I've had a quick look but couldn't see any loose wires in the area.
  12. Hi all, I have a Defender 91" 200tdi and recently the clutch pedal has started to feel soft and the biting point has dropped. On one occasion it was very hard to change gears. The clutch is about 2yrs old heavy duty ( last time it went it was the bearing/ pivot ball I think). Pedal has always been slightly soft for the first inch, but now is noticeable softer till about an inch or two off the bottom. No leaks or noticeable drop in fluid in the reservoir. I thought it might just need the pedal to be adjusted which I've done but still no luck. Any suggestions? Cheers, Ben
  13. Hey, need some help with this Bought a 200tdi snorkel on eBay, it came without any adaptor to go inside the engine bay. It's a 200tdi disco engine in an old defender and fitting an air box seems more hassle then I want so planning on just running a pipe direct from the snorkel to the turbo and fitting an air filter up the top of my snorkel but have no real idea how to get a pipe to run and seal between my snorkel which is just bolted to the outside over the top of the old air intake grill. any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit stumped
  14. Hi guys Had a hose blow in the engine bay, chucked coolant everywhere. Replaced the section of hose and topped up the expansion vessel with coolant. Temp gauge still reading off the scale even though the engine block doesn't feel that hot. Is my first point of call the thermostat? Or something else? Thanks
  15. Hi all! I know this has been covered, but i can't find anything thats exact. I brought a 200tdi back to the states when i was stationed in the UK, and have since been doing a 13 month re build. Currently i want to install ONLY A SPEEDO form a td5 (not the whole instrument pack). For the life of me, i can't find data on just doing that; everything talks mostly about doing the whole thing. I know that i need the transducer, 3 core wire, and the speedo. I would rather not butcher up a td5 wire harness for this, so what can i do with the items mentioned? Thanks guys! Trying to spread the defender love back here in the lower 48! Andy
  16. Hello, I was wallowing under my 1989 110 SW 200TDi replacing the front diff input flange and seal to stop a leak there. (The axle breather is free and clear. ) Looking up I noticed the oil pressure switch is covered in, engine, oil. The oil appears to be leaking out at the switch. The switch itself works as the light on the dash seems to work as expected. So I'm thinking of ordering up a new oil pressure switch and fitting it. Is there anything else I should think about when doing this that it might be? ( I didn't get time to get a spanner on it and nip it up which I might try before replacing TBH. ) cheers, Rich T
  17. Hi there,I've bought a 200tdi which currently sits in my donor discovery. It hadn't ran for four years. I got it running today and at low rpm it sounded perfect. However I gave it a little throttle and a noise from the front of the engine came about. It now makes a noise at idle and up through the rev range. I took off all belts to eliminate alternator PAS etc. The noise still remains and sounds like it is from the crankshaft pulley area. It isn't a terribly bad noise but is a mechanical rubbing sound. I have checked that the crankshaft pulley seems tight and the mud washer/deflector seems tight and in place. The rubber in the vibration damper is perished and cracked in a few places but it isn't coming away from the damper. Once i have removed this engine i will change the cambelt so i will need to remove the crankshaft pulley anyway, just wondered if anyone had any ideas whilst I can still get it running in the disco.Thanks in advance!
  18. Greetings All ! I was given a Durite oil pressure gauge & sender and want to fit this to the 300 Tdi in the 110. However - one obviously needs some sort of "splitter" for this, so both the warning light switch and the gauge sender unit get to the (lack of..) oil pressure. I failed so far to find something to solve this/ What can I use please ?
  19. Hi Folks, I'm installing a Madmad EMS-2 unit to my 86" Def 200tdi 90. and I'm trying to get the oil monitoring senders as tidy as possible. It seems the "norm" to screw 1/8npt into M10x1.0 parallel now I know this has been done 1 million gazillion times successfully, but I don't want to do that, seems lazy and goes against my better judgement, so that kinda makes life a bit more tricky for me... I've used Ralphs posts of information with regard to the factory adaptor parts and got some bits on order, but due to choosing to stick with VDO 1/8NPT senders I need to make my own adaptors (as I'm sick to the teeth of trying to chase them pre made - half the suppliers out there don't have a clue) So I have a few questions which I've not been able to answer after many hours trawling the interweb... Questions 1) Which of these two locations is the best place to fit an oil temperature sender (only purely considering accuracy of measurement! - forget vulnerability etc due to location.) A) Engine Sump plug B) Blocked off extra port on oil filter housing (Plug Pt# ETC4021) (sender Pt# PRC4372) - Factory position? Question 2) Which also leads me to the question, what is the sump plug thread type/size of the early 200tdi's - apparently the same as some V8's (Plug Pt# 603659) Question 3) Effectiveness of senders protrustion in flow of measured medium... Now by the time you screw a 1/8 NPT VDO (Pt# VDO323/801/009/001C) sender into an adaptor, then fitted to the hole, I recon the protrusion of the sender head into the flow of water/oil is vastly reduced over the original correct sender, e.g. the new 1/8NPT sender maybe sticks into the flow 4mm compared to 12mm. After doing some run tests yesterday I was getting a steady coolant temperature of 78 degrees centigrade, this seemed a little low considering I had what I believe to be an 88 degree thermostat installed. Will the protrusion of the sender give me such a dip in measured temperature as to what I'm seeing per chance? Enough questions for now... Mav
  20. Lying under the vehicle whilst doing the 500 mile oil change on the newly rebuilt engine I noticed a slight sheen around the wading plug hole. Doing the touch and sniff test revealed a strong diesel smell which I assume indicates failure of the fuel injection pump driveshaft seal? My other question is given that diesel hardly pouring out of the pump if I pull my finger out and get the seal changed pronto can I get away without changing the timing belt? Given it's a Dayco belt with only 500 miles or so on it I really hope the answers no!
  21. Hello, First post.... Does anyone have a link to the wiring diagram for a 200 TDi, please? I've looked hard and can't find one. Any help would be gratefully received. Thanks
  22. A cautionary tale that might help others as well as a chance for those more experienced to chortle at a schoolboy error. Having finished the complete rebuild of my 200tdi last weekend the fateful moment came when you can't put off turning the key and seeing if all that hard work (and expense) has worked out. Key was turned and after not too much churning it started the oil pressure light went out smartly and everything sounded good. Whilst it warmed up I was feeling pretty smug until one of the kids asked where that large and growing puddle of oil was coming from. It was coming from the front wading plug hole in the timing cover and it clearly wasn't going to stop. Long story shortened the source of the leak was the bolt in the centre of the timing belt adjuster. I had fitted the gasket that effectively seals the thread of the adjuster securing bolt off from the oil coming from the nose of the camshaft that runs down the front of the block and back into the sump to the wrong hole. In my defense the manual seems to show the gasket going on the top hole and the you tube video I watched definitely shows it going on the top one . Obviously I should have checked by offering up the timing cover chest when I was building the engine and seen that in my case the bolt was going through the bottom hole but to be honest I didn't get the significance of the gasket. After sulking for a while I pulled the front of the engine apart changed the gasket along with all the others and the engine is now leak free as well as sounding good. Am I the first numpty to make this mistake I wonder?
  23. Hi guys, Recently my 200tdi Defender 90 has lost power preventing me from accelerating above 40mph, normally being forced to drop down into 3rd gear. When starting it can be erratic, sometimes straight away sometimes a bit slow, normally with some white smoke. 1st and 2nd gear the problem is not noticeable until you get the end of the drive of each gear which seems to happen much quicker than it use to. This symptom seems to be the same in 3rd as well, can't get there in 4th. Notes: - Recent clutch change - Using biofuel - no problems prior to this - Fuel line had loosened it self - just tightened it back up - Engine sounds a bit off - Sometimes idle I can feel like its about to stall, it wont. Any ideas what this could be? Cheers
  24. Hi everyone, Apologies if there's something similar out there but I couldn't find any! So I'm biting the bullet and getting my dream car - A Land Rover Defender 90 CSW. I've found one which is absolutely wonderful: 1988, 200tdi Disco engine swap, loads of money spent on it after various issues in the past (praying that the jobs were done well), and just generally a smart-looking truck. My problem is that I'm a bit of a beginner, and although I have a few friends that know a lot more than I, they're all working when I have my viewing - and it's a fair drive away! So, I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips with regards to what to look out for? I'll keep trying to have someone who knows something come with me, but I don't want to miss out if I can't! I should be going to view next Thursday! My other question would be, which company is best/cheapest for a young driver's insurance on a Landy? Thanks in advance, Will
  25. Evening all, Had hoped my first post would be a happy intro. Should have known better! Got myself a 1993 defender 90 200tdi (original engine). Vague service history and the previous owner covered 10k in 4 years. Now it's done 110k. Timing belt @ 96k. Not used much yet. Mainly a 100 mile journey home from purchase and she ran absolutely fine although no pushed hard. Have had the sump off to cure an oil leak, oil and filter change. Turns out leak may have been from where the dip stick enters the lower part of the block but had fun throwing oil all over the concrete anyway. Changed air filter - discovered thick oil at the seal end (outside seal, 2-3 teaspoons) and inside the old filter. Removed cyclone breather, washed through with petrol and thoroughly dried. Cleaned breather pipe with brake cleaner and dried. Removed hose between air filter and turbo - oily film inside and wet oil on outer underside (suggests split but couldn't find one although difficult as its a Flexi-hose). Cleaned a film of oil from around the turbo inlet. The turbo impeller had a very small amount of play along the line of the shaft (fore/aft). Also found oil remnants around the bottom inter cooler hose. Removed and cleaned but very little in hose (just a smear). No idea how much may be in intercooler though. Replaced all and double checked clips etc. She starts fine and ticks over happily. Bit of a puff and then a faint bit of blue smoke until warm, then it's almost invisible - this has always happened and I'm not overly concerned (yet). However if I Rev the engine (from under the bonnet) I'm getting a puff of blue smoke from the turbo unit! This is worrying me! It revs up fine, sounds fine and settles back to idle fine. But I'm guessing the turbo shouldn't be smoking!!!???? Hoping you might be able to enlighten me. Have heard about turbo seals going, but can't find this on any of the forums. Daren't drive the bloody thing in case it goes bang! Only thing I haven't done as planned is the fuel filter as I didn't have any fresh diesel to prime with. And haven't worked out how to flush the intercooler yet either. All help greatly appreciated, but as you've already guessed this is my first defender and I don't spend a great deal of time in nitrile gloves. Cheers.
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