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Found 17 results

  1. cypermethrin

    Removing back plate of handbrake

    I have '97 300 TDI Defender - am planning to fit new handbrake cable and service the handbrake drum etc is it possible to get the handbrake back plate drum without removing the drive flange thing ? Thanks in advance
  2. With thanks to Cotleigh Crasher I have changed the stem seals on my 300 TDi, with the head on. This is to try to eliminate the start-up blue smoke that can be a little embarrassing as I leave the drive. I know that this is a relatively simple job but for people like me it feels like a major one - the first time you do something new it always does doesn't it? First job was to fabricate the tool with the help of a vice, cutting disc, and file Removed the air filter, rocker cover, cyclone breather and glow plug cables. Then as I intended to spin the engine using a ratchet in the crank bolt, I thought that removing the glow plugs would help by reducing the compression. #1 was easy to undo but #3 and #4 were very tight. I persevered with penetrating oil and turning slowly to and fro but as I removed the third one I realised that the thread had picked-up on the head as I removed. So I was wishing that I hadn't. I decided to leave #2 well alone. However two of the three that I did remove don't work. (tested by putting battery volts across them). So with three plugs out I could move the engine rather than moving the vehicle in gear.
  3. Igol

    Fuel filler neck

    One of the many minor fixes for my MOT was sharp bits on the rear quarter panel due to accident damge. This happened back in 08 and has passed since then but hey ho a bit of plating and filler and jobs jobbed and she passes on the retest. Yesterday I had to fill up for the first time since the MOT and noticed some diesel was by passing the tank and pouring out over the mudflap bracket. It seems I have managed to drill into the filler neck when I was rivetting the plate on, whoops. Now as it should be a neat little hole I'm hoping that some fettling with the soldering iron will let me do a bit of plastic welding, but other than the easy jubilee clips for the breather and filler pipe is it just the grommet holding the pipe in place and should I assume that it will be destroyed in the process and get one in?
  4. When coming back from the Alps last year, the 110 (300 Tdi) seemed to have lost a few ponies.. Eventually, it died en route and suffered the Recovery truck and another 200 miles on our own trailer behind the Ninety.. Replaced the fuel filters, blew the fuel lines and replaced the fuel lift pump. Everything seemed to working again and the 110 went back to work. 2,000 kms - or about 1,250 miles in your money - it started having trouble working under load. Would not die, but loose power. Replaced, filters, blew the fuel lines and replaced the fuel lift pump. No real improvement but the thing had to work so off it went and did, apart from another Holland trip with a big trailer, 2 Alps trips and a Spain recovery bash.. So, getting fed up with the lack of power, I again replaced the filters and found no difference. Replaced the fuel lift pump and all was well. Did a 430 mile test drive today and it drove very, very nice. Morale of the story : don't trust any part these days, just because they are new, branded or in a box from a well known brand, to be good. Deep Sigh....
  5. As you guys are a great source of wisdom, etc... I hope you can tell me what this is ? I was led to believe it is a thermosstat housing for the R380 and attaches the oil cooler to ? And the "sensor" ? Warning light or gauge sensor... Thanks
  6. I'm posting this again in the correct thread in the hope that someone can help. I've completed the change of timing belt and tensioner etc on my 300TDi. Everything has gone well, I've followed the thread in the tech archive and I am right at the end but don't know how to tighten the crank bolt to 80Nm plus 90degs. I don't have the locking tool and it had undone very easily using the bar under the chassis. I'm using a clicky torque wrench - can't confirm its provenance but I can get to 80 but when I try harder to turn it through 90degs I'm just fighting the engine and gearbox (in 4th). So, firstly, should I put threadlock on the bolt (can't see definitive answers when I search) and secondly, how to I ensure it's tight enough? Thanks in advance.
  7. Greetings All ! I was given a Durite oil pressure gauge & sender and want to fit this to the 300 Tdi in the 110. However - one obviously needs some sort of "splitter" for this, so both the warning light switch and the gauge sender unit get to the (lack of..) oil pressure. I failed so far to find something to solve this/ What can I use please ?
  8. Hi Guys. Ive been running my old girl (300 Tdi - 368400 km) on CALTEX diesel ever since i took ownership, that being around 6 years now. I have always believed and maintained that you should run and keep running an engine on one specific brand of fuel. Well...I may be changing those beliefs. Although i have been tinkering the last month or two. Had an annoying ticking sound in relation to engine revs, especially after climing hills. Engine flush, new oil/filter, fuel, and airfilter. Did another 2 engine oil changes in the last 3 weeks. Was running 15w - 40, have switched to a high Mileage 20w - 50. New lift pump fitted this past wekend (old one seemed dodge). Kept running her on CALTEX 50ppm...and she seemed to be running better now, than before the oil changes etc. I was running low on fuel and had to fill up at another garage (ENGEN). Put in 500ppm standard diesel fuel.....and WOW !!! It's been 2 days now, and She's never run better. great accelaration, power and running smoothly. Has anyone else experienced anything like this ? I would love to hear about it. Will keep running her on ENGEN fuel to see if i'm correct in my obsevations.
  9. DefenderKt

    98 Defender 130 Door rebuilding

    Hi there, I'm new to these forums however not new to auto work. I've come into a few issues recently after starting a new engineering job. The boss has a few personal projects lying around that he can't attend regularly as he's quite busy so I've been given the task of rebuilding his 98' LR Defender 130. It wouldn't be so hard except the muppet he had disassemble it just chucked every bolt into a big basin and all the weather seals, lock mechanisms, interior door cards and anything else thats part of the doors, bonnet or roof into a giant box. Now I usually wouldn't come and ask for help, but I'm completely stuck. I've started to reassemble the doors, I've got as far as reattaching the sheet steel with the interior door handle back to the door frames, (which the frames have been recently powder coated, so I've got the tap and die set out cause all the threads are now gummy coated too), and the window regulators (manual) back in. But short of all this, I'm not even sure if I'm on the right track. I've tried looking over some manuals, but I was wondering if someone whose done this before could brief me on the overall process and in what order. I can upload photos if it would help. The manuals only really detail individual steps as if I had removed the lock and wanted to put it back, but not so much about an entirely exploded door, that needs complete reassembly. As I said before this wouldn't be that bad a task if the guy who disassembled it all had taken necessary precautions labelling etc, but I can't complain as this is what the new job entails but any help or guidance will be much appreciated. If anyone knows good sources for this kind of information and parts lists, that would be great. My boss got a hell of alot of the rust out after the guy he employed disassembled everything, but I still need to get some bolts and stuff and probably a few body parts. Cheers
  10. Hi I'm in the vapour build or preplaning of my 109" STW rebuild, which will include a 300(T)DI conversion, this will need to release its exhaust some how and i'm wondering which system to go for, keeping the complete build as standard/simple as possible, using standard parts where ever possible. i recon it will need to be of a larger diameter than the standard 2,25 exhaust, so thats ruled out from the start. so does any one know or have they tried using some of these solution? please give me your pros, cons and needed mods, thanks 6 cyl petrol exhaust system all the way - I'm not liking the idea of it hanging on the out side of the chassis, i think i'll mess it up first time off-roading..... Stage I V8 exhaust system all the way, except the front pipe ? - a more snug fit in my eyes, but front pipe needs making, maybe combined with a XXX front pipe 300 TDI exhaust system all the way - this was not designed for this chassis or leafs but maybe fits? 200 TDI exhaust system all the way - this was not designed for this chassis or leafs but maybe fits? any other ideas ? this is the 109" in for the transplant...
  11. 300 tdi engine knocking at idle with significant white smoke when cold start. Knock gets louder under load like switching A/con on or Auto Gear engaged. Tried everything i could think of but cant get rid of of the loud knock which goes from piston slap clack-clack-clack at idle to metallic thunk thunk thunk when A/con is switched on. I already check / did the following in chronoligical order but no solution: 1. Changed valve stem seals & adjusted valve lash 0.2mm - minimal adjusment required, no cure 2. Checked turbo impeller for oil and freeplay - no faults 3. Checked for rocker shaft / pedestal / loose bolt stud faults - no faults 4. Checked with stethescope sound like at top of block below head - not vacuum oir fule lift pump 5. Remove auxialary beltings - same knock, no joy 6. Retarded FIP timing as much as practicable - smokes, slightly less knock but real sluggish 6. Open T.case checked timing and various adjustments to cam and FIP - same knock, no cure 7. Checked Crankshaft pulley key way - its perfect 8. Ran engine without timing front cover - same knock, no faults found 8. Bosch specialist tested injectors, cant hold pressure - change 4 nozzles, no joy same knock 9. Specialist rebuilt pump - new plunger coz keyway damage and new supply pump, same knock Then the current biggie but still no cure, knocks even louder: 10. Engine out, top and bottom off - change piston no.4 (old injury with broken valve stem... another long story) - changed con rod no.1 coz piston height unecven front higher than back by 0.3mm - inspected crankshaft / cam shaft in situ - bearing / lobe surfaces looks good - inspected auto gear flex plate - not broken looks serviceable - Replaced all little end, big end and main bearings (bearings looks good but small end loose) - rechecked crankshaft thrust bearing - still std size coz oversize cant fit in at all - replaced 1 bent pus rod and 1 damaged tappet slide - other all ok - fitted 1.4mm elring head gasket (all pistons below 0.6mm and its got a new cyl head) Retarded FIP timing but still knocking miuch louder than my 23 year old 200 tdi, but less smoke though. Looking back I should have remove the crankshaft, cam shaft and oil pump but what else should I do other than to pull the motor out again. Sorry for long post but I really need your collective expert advice.
  12. JimDay

    Disco Newbie

    Hi all I'm Jim & have just bought myself a bargin a 1995 Disco 300 TDi in need of lots of TLC so I may well be picking your brains for information to sort it out the biggest problem is tin worm plus a worn out brake servo vacuum pump, but the pump is soon to be delivered courtesy of disc_al on here & the welding is under way.So please be gentle with me . Jim
  13. JimDay

    Alternator regulator

    Is it possible to change the regulator / diode pack on a 300 TDi alternator
  14. tidyshow

    What Calipers Should I Buy

    Hi there, I have a 1997 300 TDi which requires a N/S Front caliper. I have found 3 types to buy but i'm unsure as to which ones i should buy. The choices are as most of you will probably know : 1. Allmakes 2. Britpart 3. Bearmach. After trawling the net i think Bearmach might be the ones to go for, but i'd rather ask those in the know.
  15. So I am in need of a new front prop to hoefully cure the resonation from the front suspensions. But there are a bewildering slection to choose from wrt manufacturers. see here https://www.lrdirect.com/TVB100610-Propshaft-Front-Ds1-Def-4Cyl/?sfi=TVB100610&keep_https=yes I am strangely not drawn to Britpart - but then noticed that that Hardy Spicer were the source. What is the view on the All-Makes which on the above link does seem to be abit of a bargain at 60 pounds delivered. Thanks
  16. TheRecklessEngineer

    Radiator rubber bushes

    Can anyone find the part numbers for the 4 x bushes that sit between the locating pins and holes on the 300 tdi radiator/intercooler pack?
  17. I just noticed a tiny coolant weep on the gasket joint of my cooling pump and as these things have an bad habit of getting worse before too long I'm going to have to pull the pump face off and replace the gasket. My question without notice is this, does anyone have a record of the lengths of the bolts -- I believe there are 7 in total and of various lengths -- and the bolt pitch(s), which I believe is 8mm dia. x 1.25 pitch. The reason I ask is I know from when I re-assembled the engine that the hexangles on the bolts were getting rounded and I'd rather get new stainless ones before I pull it apart. Oh, and the very best seasons wishes to you all and may your new year be better than the last.
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