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  1. Hi guys, I hope you are all doing well during these challenging days. I am new to this forum, but have been a rover enthusiast for ages. My current rover is a 1989 range rover converted to a 200tdi. I have gone through an exhaustive process of tuning the FIP noting every change and recording the resulting data, both qualitative and quantitative. I would like to post my method soon, when I have a little bit of time, because maybe it will be useful to those who need to start over without any reference to the factory settings. My FIP was not original, as it was obviously from a 300Tdi w
  2. So a couple of weeks ago, I was driving to work in my '97 300tdi defender and there was a thud and the engine came to a stop. And I immediately knew what had happened... So after getting towed back home, I decided to take the job on myself and try and fix her up. Over the last few weeks I've been ordering various parts and tools and have slowly been getting there. And Today I thought I would be done. I got the engine all re-timed up (at least I think I have) The wood ruff key was at 12 o'clock to the arrow and the timing pin was in the bell housing. The Injector pu
  3. I will link to this thread from my re-build thread but thought a separate question might be a good idea. A couple of days ago I started-up and there was a lot of white smoke which eventually disappeared. A few miles later on another re-start it was clear, just the usual black puff. Yesterday it did the same and then again today. So I have started thinking. 300TDi, 165K miles and 15K / 2.5 years since the timing belt was changed. I'm in the UK and today was 4C / 39F max so it isn't cold. The things I think that I need to check are: 1. FIP timing - I can "roughly" check this
  4. Hi, I'm having a problem with my 1998 300tdi. Slow to start, sits fine at idle, dies on acceleration. Sounds familiar, simple fix, change the lift pump. But no! Lift pump changed, no difference. So changed fuel filter, air filter, oil filter (not related but I was in a filter mood). Engine starts slowly runs on idles, dies on acceleration. Possible dodgy replacement lift pump? Off it comes and another one put on. Tested both for blow/suck on activating the pump lever. All good. Start it up, fine on idle, (you know where this is going) dies on acceleration. So I crack
  5. In the cold weather in Jan 2011 I noticed an oil leak which was worse than usual and tracked it down to the oil filter which had come quite loose and was dripping a drop of oil every 5 yards or so - not far off coming off completely, with the predictable unwelcome consequences. I have since kept an eye open for this problem, and it has not recurred, but we had little cold weather last winter. This evening my better half mentioned a patch of black snow where the Landy had been, and sure enough the oil filter had loosened about 10th turn. I have always used LR or good aftermarket filters, sme
  6. I have a RRC with a 2.5L VM diesel with LT77 5-speed. I have access to a running 300tdi from a Defender. What parts do I need to get the motor swapped into my Range Rover Classic? I would like to keep my LT77 as the Defender's R380 needs rebuilding and my LT77 is just fine. Appreciate the input! Eric
  7. Hi, I've got a manual 300tdi disco. The speedo stopped working the other day, but then half way through my journey it just picked back up and continued fine. It's done this a couple more times now. Any ideas what component is at fault? Cheers.
  8. Hi folks, I'm hoping one of you landy lovers can help me with my disco1 it's a 300tdi 1998 auto 2.5 All was good, mot due November and I planned to take her off the road over winter for some new panels body mounts etc . I've always had a dodgy fob(ALWAYS) where the battery cradle solders broke and I just occasionally reposition it if it ever fails. Couple weeks ago my wife borrowed it but couldn't sort immobilizer so I went to it jiggled it and away we went. But she said get that spare fob programmed at the garage up the road.(know for programming these 2button old rover style in the
  9. The 300tdi runs fine in my 90. 137k miles. Sometimes starting isn't so good. Turn key and it fires then dies. Then follows plenty cranking 10 secs at a time for three or four times. Then a few fire and die cycles then a lumpy start and settles fine. Rarely does it second start of the day and sometimes goes a week starting first turn. Thinking it may be a fuel problem. Perhaps a leak letting air in and draining pipes down to tank. Can't see any fuel leaks. Any suggestions as to where to start looking? Thanks
  10. I have a constant niggle; the throttle cable adjuster keeps winding itself forward and loosening the cable. It moves very easily on its thread.I have put a P clip on the spiral threaded part of the cable to try to prevent it and that worked for a while but it is doing it again. I have had a look and can't see I am missing any parts, eg a clip. Can anyone suggest a cure or am I missing something? If it needs a new cable, fine, but I have a feeling the problem would continue. Regards Nigel
  11. Can anyone tell me the part number of the retaining sleeve circled in red? They come in plastic or metal. Thanks
  12. I have been told that the army versions of the 300 Tdi are slightly stronger - as in more BHP - and have been build to a better quality than their civilian versions. Although I'm aware that they came usu. in 24 volt form, this claim is new to me. My questions are : 1 - is this extra power a myth ? 2 - 24 volt worth keeping ? 3 - Is there any way, apart from the rebuild plate, to trace the history of an engine ? Thanks.
  13. Hi all, I've managed to snap the barbed hose fitting off the banjo fitting on one of the injectors on my 200tdi. Numpty. I know that these banjos take a 6mm bolt and the barb fits a 3.2mm or 1/8 ID pipe. But I can't find such a thing for sale anywhere and want to avoid replacing the whole spill rail if possible. Can anyone help with a source for a replacement banjo union? Cheers!
  14. Cruise control not working. It's a very late model 300tdi ES auto. Seem to remember it worked when I bought the car about 10 years ago but never really bothered with it - would like to get it going, it's the latest thing on a long list I've been working through! So far I've replaced all the vacuum hoses - including the one to the brake pedal. Taken the pump out, direct wired to a 12v battery and system vacuums up ok - can see the bellows contracting, pump works ok etc. I've now replaced the pedal switch with a new one, still no joy. There didn't seem to be anything wrong with the old one
  15. I have a 1995 300 TDI Defender 110. I am trying to find the rear axle number but it is not in the location that is shown in the Workshop Manual. I've seen some comments online about others not finding it either. The front axle is clearly marked 63L07376A. Does anyone know if Land Rover didn't stamp the rear axle for that year?
  16. 1996 110 SW My windscreen has started to leak through the rubber seal along the bottom of the glass and I’ve started to chase the leak with rtv but it’s not working. Is replacing this glass seal a diy job or should I use the experts? As the glass isn’t broken there’s no insurance possibility. At the same time I thought maybe a heated screen would be a good upgrade. I wonder what experience there is with out there with these ones http://www.heatedwindscreen.com I’m thinking fit, quality and effectiveness of heating elements. As ever, any advice is gratefully received.
  17. Hey guys, my defender has broken down and do not know where to start troubleshooting. It was driving normally until I turned it off for 15 mins and when I turned it back on it had a bad knocking sound coming from the engine bay, I thought I might make it home, started driving and the noise got louder and eventually engine cut out about 5kms down the road, had to get a tow truck back home. It still cranks over, It is a 1996 300tdi with 260000kms on it. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
  18. 1) Hi, my horn has stoped working. Horn works when supplied with 12v (purple/black) and 12v arrives at Fuse 10 fom the switch (purple/black). Supply lost somewhere between the horn switch/fuse 10 and the horn itself. I can't find the horn on the RAVE wiring diagram for this car but surprisingly the switch is shown on the Engine Immobilisation schematic. It feeds Fuse 10 then the alarm relay (R200). The horn is not shown. Any clues as to how the supply gets to the horn would be appreciated. 2. I have checked the alarm relay and it is fine but not as shown on the schematic
  19. My '97 300 TDI Defender started weaping from the clutch master cyclinder into the foot well - so naturally wanted to replace it with OEM The new cyclinder is fitted and surprisingly I have most of the skin on my knuckles too; the old cyclinder had alot of black gunk at the bottom of the reservoir which I presume is from the degradation of the seals and the fluid was a muddy dark color. So my question - given the state of the fluid I was going to drain out all the old fluid from the slave and refil with fresh. Is there anything else I can or should do to remove any additional gunk ?
  20. I bought standard folding side steps for my 300tdi 90. Passenger side no problem but diesel tank is in the way on the driver's side. Can't get access to side rail to bolt it on and no exposed chassis to put the strut onto. Is there a different step for this?
  21. Hi Folks, 1997 Defender 110 300Tdi - Installation of a rev counter into instrument dash. Essentially removing the clock and replacing with a rev counter - albeit likely to fit next to speed and shift over the fuel gauge. Thinking then of mounting a clock (rectangular old style) on the centre dash between rear wash wipe and cigarette lighter. However, have to put this project on ice for a little while. Before I forget though, would like to have some feedback on my thoughts on how to wire this all up. Thinking of a piggy back blade onto the ignition switch (inline fuse) and conne
  22. On our way back from Lightning Ridge to have a look at my neighbors opal mine the alarm went off 22 K's north of Gilgandra - no turbo pressure, no oil pressure. I turned the engine off and coated onto the grass verge on the side of the road. From there we arranged for a tow into Gilgandra, not the best town in the west - they dont even have a taxi service ! I initially thought that maybe the turbo bearing(s) had blown but that wasn't the case, I disconnected the oil feed line to the oil cooler, pulled off the fuel solenoid power supply to stop the motor from running and turned the m
  23. Hi all Having a problem with a lack of vacuum assistance on my 300tdi 90 (conversion, running td5 axles with vented front disks for what it's worth) . Having to absolutely stand on the brakes to slow down, it's not great. So far I've replaced the brake servo with a brand new one (not blue box, replaced o ring to master cylinder as well), tested that there is vacuum, tested the one way valve. Nothing has worked! Pumping the pedal until hard when the engine is off, then maintaining pressure as I start the engine and the brake pedal doesn't change at all. When I checked the vacuum I wa
  24. Hello all, Been an avid reader on here for a few years and always found it to be a great source of guidance and inspiration so thank you all very much. I own a '97 90 300tdi that I am in the process of a complete rebuild onto a galvanised Richards Chassis. Attempted to fit the bulkhead to it yesterday.... only to find the bulkhead doesn't fit :-( The holes in the chassis are 12mm further apart than the holes at the bottom of the bulkhead A pillars. The bulkhead is the original item although I have welded in new footwells and had it galvanised. Whilst never expecti
  25. Hi all, I've got myself into a problem with my windscreen washer pump. As you can see from the photos, the connection isn't the regular run of the mill, possibly down to my disco 1 300tdi being one of the last to roll off the production line. The male connector has two prong with a metal cube attached to each prong. One of these "cubes" managed to fall out and it can't make a proper connection with the pump anymore. End result is a blown fuse with each attempt to wash the windscreen. I overcame this by swapping the tubing so that when i press rear wash button it sprays my windscreen bu
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