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  1. Not wanting to clutter the other thread where I have used the head-still-on method to change my seals (here) I'd like to use a new thread to ask more advice from the wealth of knowledge on this forum. When I changed the seals the first time, the blue smoke was worse, not clearing at all with the engine idling on the drive. I had a look at what I'd done and realised that I hadn't correctly located some of the seals onto the tops of the valve guides. So I did it again, repeating the method but trying to ensure that they were tapped on properly. I use the same seals as they all looked ok without any damage. However the blue smoke persistsed - clearing after 200m. So I looked a third time yesterday. Here are a couple of pics. As you can see, two seals have lifted. If I push them back on they pull off with slight finger pressure. One responded to a firmer tap and wouldn't then pull off so easily but one of the new seals won't locate as well as an old one. So I fitted an old one - picked one that seems to drag on the stem (hope that means a oil tight fit). Put it back together a third time, reset tappets and left overnight. It wasn't as cold this morning but I still got 200m of blue smoke. Hmm... Now I suspect the new seals and wonder if anyone else has had poor quality ones? I paid £2.89 +vat each for genuine parts but they have absolutely no manufacturer marks on them and they were in a plain bag. I've asked the (reputable) supplier to confirm that they are genuine but that was only yesterday and no reply received yet. Can I suspect the seals themselves? It can't be too difficult to seat them properly can it? If my blue smoke clears after 200m then it can't be anything else can it? Got to get it sorted as it's very anti-social as you drive through campsites (or down the road past the neighbours).
  2. Oddly enough on my 200tdi i’ve got a 300tdi Bulkhead which uses a different metal dash support. (the metal frame underneath the dash)(200tdi has tabs inline with the vehicle whilst 300s bolt parallel to the bulkhead) . i’ve attempted bending and modifying it to fit it but with no success. i believe i found the part on lr workshop however can’t find the part for sale anywhere new or used. Could anyone help me source this part.
  3. On our way back from Lightning Ridge to have a look at my neighbors opal mine the alarm went off 22 K's north of Gilgandra - no turbo pressure, no oil pressure. I turned the engine off and coated onto the grass verge on the side of the road. From there we arranged for a tow into Gilgandra, not the best town in the west - they dont even have a taxi service ! I initially thought that maybe the turbo bearing(s) had blown but that wasn't the case, I disconnected the oil feed line to the oil cooler, pulled off the fuel solenoid power supply to stop the motor from running and turned the motor over for a good 45 seconds - no oil ! the level in the sump was on the mark so it wasn't due to lack of engine oil in the sump and I've been since advised that the inner "gear" on the oil pump have been known to crack in two resulting in zero oil flow --- has anyone heard of this before ? I'm secretly hoping its just the oil pick-up pipe that's come adrift but I wont know until Saturday after I drive there with a trailer to pick the Disco up.
  4. Hi guys, I hope you are all doing well during these challenging days. I am new to this forum, but have been a rover enthusiast for ages. My current rover is a 1989 range rover converted to a 200tdi. I have gone through an exhaustive process of tuning the FIP noting every change and recording the resulting data, both qualitative and quantitative. I would like to post my method soon, when I have a little bit of time, because maybe it will be useful to those who need to start over without any reference to the factory settings. My FIP was not original, as it was obviously from a 300Tdi with provisions for the EGR fitment. The anti-tamper collar and plug were previously removed and the diaphragm had already been adjusted and it was a bit of a dog. Anyway, I worked through a process to tune the FIP from scratch, based on the fundamentals of each adjustment and it seems to be running powerfully and efficiently without any smoke issues. If there is interest I will post my method. As to my question of EGTs, it is well documented that ~730 C is a hard maximum for sustained temperatures in the 200/300Tdi, with some scattered anecdotes of people running much higher. The main factor for this limit is usually linked to damage to turbine vanes. My question is, does anyone have reliable knowledge about the safe limits of the other engine components, such as the head and pistons? I have an aftermarket Billet Hybrid Turbo Turbocharger CHRA, from Turbo Rebuild Ltd, for which they recommend a maximum safe limit of 850 C (1562 F) and I am wondering how much I can safely, if at all, push the rest of the engine beyond 730 C. Currently, my engine is pulling hard up to ~4000 RPM at 16 PSI of boost, but the EGTs rise quickly during hard acceleration and will easily exceed 1400 C on a steep incline . I know I can get a few more PSI out of the turbo (maximum recommended 22 PSI) which will reduce EGTs, but right now I am unwilling to go beyond 18 or 19 PSI, as I do not know the history of the engine or the condition of the head gasket. At the moment I can easily moderate the temps with my foot, and keep it between 1200 and 1350 when pushing it hard on the highway, especially while overtaking vehicles or climbing hills. I like having the extra power when I need it, but I also want to be able to keep my eyes on the road during those times rather than down on my poorly located gauge. I plan on refining the FIP settings to get the temps down a little more, but I hope to keep the level of performance where it currently is. Thanks!
  5. So a couple of weeks ago, I was driving to work in my '97 300tdi defender and there was a thud and the engine came to a stop. And I immediately knew what had happened... So after getting towed back home, I decided to take the job on myself and try and fix her up. Over the last few weeks I've been ordering various parts and tools and have slowly been getting there. And Today I thought I would be done. I got the engine all re-timed up (at least I think I have) The wood ruff key was at 12 o'clock to the arrow and the timing pin was in the bell housing. The Injector pump had the locking pin in it. And the camshaft sprocket was aligned with the marking on the sprocket and the casing. Everything was torqued to spec and I re-did all the valve clearances after putting the new push rods and rocker shaft back in. (btw all the cam followers were in great shape and not cracked) I went to start her a few hours ago and it started fine but it seems to "chug", I did take the radiator/ intercooler and oil cooler off. I'm assuming the chugging is low oil pressure or the intercooler not being connected? I've linked a video below: and would love to hear what you guys think. Cheers. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Taevy3CObC6Hu0Vlt5fR29gusiVal6ev/view?usp=sharing
  6. I will link to this thread from my re-build thread but thought a separate question might be a good idea. A couple of days ago I started-up and there was a lot of white smoke which eventually disappeared. A few miles later on another re-start it was clear, just the usual black puff. Yesterday it did the same and then again today. So I have started thinking. 300TDi, 165K miles and 15K / 2.5 years since the timing belt was changed. I'm in the UK and today was 4C / 39F max so it isn't cold. The things I think that I need to check are: 1. FIP timing - I can "roughly" check this using the flywheel pin for TDC and pin in the FIP but I haven't got a DTI kit to check at the back of the pump. I'd be expecting to need to advance slightly but I don't know why it would require this "suddenly". 2. Cam timing / crank sprocket position - need to remove the crank pulley and timing case - so this is a last resort? I'd be expecting a slight move of the crank sprocket but I am sure that I torqued the crank pulley correctly when I did the belt. 3. Injectors - these are as old as the engine but were cleaned and checked at a specialist 3+ years and 25K miles ago. Should I spend £300 or whatever they are now? Almost forgot 4. Head gasket leak of air. There is no coolant loss. Any advice as to what to do first?
  7. Hi, I'm having a problem with my 1998 300tdi. Slow to start, sits fine at idle, dies on acceleration. Sounds familiar, simple fix, change the lift pump. But no! Lift pump changed, no difference. So changed fuel filter, air filter, oil filter (not related but I was in a filter mood). Engine starts slowly runs on idles, dies on acceleration. Possible dodgy replacement lift pump? Off it comes and another one put on. Tested both for blow/suck on activating the pump lever. All good. Start it up, fine on idle, (you know where this is going) dies on acceleration. So I crack the banjo bolts on the fuel filter and there's a healthy flow coming through. Checked the bleed screw, expecting some bubbles then fuel. Nothing coming out at all. I take the bleed screw out completely, still nothing. Out of curiosity I put my finger over the bleed hole and there's positive air pressure building up behind it. So much so that it gives a good hiss when I take my finger off, like if you had your thumb over the end of a bike pump... There's no obvious drips or leaks, of fuel anyway! Any thoughts on what could be causing my issue or whats next in the check list?
  8. In the cold weather in Jan 2011 I noticed an oil leak which was worse than usual and tracked it down to the oil filter which had come quite loose and was dripping a drop of oil every 5 yards or so - not far off coming off completely, with the predictable unwelcome consequences. I have since kept an eye open for this problem, and it has not recurred, but we had little cold weather last winter. This evening my better half mentioned a patch of black snow where the Landy had been, and sure enough the oil filter had loosened about 10th turn. I have always used LR or good aftermarket filters, smeared the rubber washer with oil before fitting and done them up by hand as tight as I could from underneath (getting a strap wrench in on a Def 90 300TDI is a pain). And two filters a year in normal weather - no problem. However, very cold UK weather (down to -10degC) and then a warm engine does seem to cause them to come loose. On the race cars, we lockwire oil filters on because of the vibration, but that is not so easy on a 300TDi. Has anyone seen this before or is it just me ? If so is there a simple solution this side of lockwire, or crawling underneath in the snow and checking ? Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere. Regards Richard
  9. I have a RRC with a 2.5L VM diesel with LT77 5-speed. I have access to a running 300tdi from a Defender. What parts do I need to get the motor swapped into my Range Rover Classic? I would like to keep my LT77 as the Defender's R380 needs rebuilding and my LT77 is just fine. Appreciate the input! Eric
  10. Hi, I've got a manual 300tdi disco. The speedo stopped working the other day, but then half way through my journey it just picked back up and continued fine. It's done this a couple more times now. Any ideas what component is at fault? Cheers.
  11. Hi folks, I'm hoping one of you landy lovers can help me with my disco1 it's a 300tdi 1998 auto 2.5 All was good, mot due November and I planned to take her off the road over winter for some new panels body mounts etc . I've always had a dodgy fob(ALWAYS) where the battery cradle solders broke and I just occasionally reposition it if it ever fails. Couple weeks ago my wife borrowed it but couldn't sort immobilizer so I went to it jiggled it and away we went. But she said get that spare fob programmed at the garage up the road.(know for programming these 2button old rover style in the past). He was busy and said leave with him the day...... I turn up and he muttered something about no good it won't program.. BUT now it doesn't even start! He towed it out the work shop gave me a hand held diagnostics to play with for a day(he used some ol' tall computer trolley job ) locked up and that was that.! Btw we do know each other and I'm familiar with diagnostics tools hence the loan . I called someone for a slow tow back home . He also gave me 2 spare fobs to try that he couldn't get to learn . After he I thought start at the beginning... Including the spare I gave him and the 2 others he had , not a battery between them! New battery in one and I learned the key within a minute.BUT still locks unlocks turns over but no fire. Here's what I've done so far.. Removed dash .. no spider behind radio Checked there is a live feed to single wire solenoid .. yes. Renewed solenoid switch Renewed lift pump. Fitted today a small fuel pump inline. So there fuel getting to pump but not from there to injectors? It's the pump with 7wire multi plug on the side going to a black box bolted to the other side of pump ..🙈 Any help very much appreciated.
  12. The 300tdi runs fine in my 90. 137k miles. Sometimes starting isn't so good. Turn key and it fires then dies. Then follows plenty cranking 10 secs at a time for three or four times. Then a few fire and die cycles then a lumpy start and settles fine. Rarely does it second start of the day and sometimes goes a week starting first turn. Thinking it may be a fuel problem. Perhaps a leak letting air in and draining pipes down to tank. Can't see any fuel leaks. Any suggestions as to where to start looking? Thanks
  13. I have a constant niggle; the throttle cable adjuster keeps winding itself forward and loosening the cable. It moves very easily on its thread.I have put a P clip on the spiral threaded part of the cable to try to prevent it and that worked for a while but it is doing it again. I have had a look and can't see I am missing any parts, eg a clip. Can anyone suggest a cure or am I missing something? If it needs a new cable, fine, but I have a feeling the problem would continue. Regards Nigel
  14. Can anyone tell me the part number of the retaining sleeve circled in red? They come in plastic or metal. Thanks
  15. I have been told that the army versions of the 300 Tdi are slightly stronger - as in more BHP - and have been build to a better quality than their civilian versions. Although I'm aware that they came usu. in 24 volt form, this claim is new to me. My questions are : 1 - is this extra power a myth ? 2 - 24 volt worth keeping ? 3 - Is there any way, apart from the rebuild plate, to trace the history of an engine ? Thanks.
  16. Hi all, I've managed to snap the barbed hose fitting off the banjo fitting on one of the injectors on my 200tdi. Numpty. I know that these banjos take a 6mm bolt and the barb fits a 3.2mm or 1/8 ID pipe. But I can't find such a thing for sale anywhere and want to avoid replacing the whole spill rail if possible. Can anyone help with a source for a replacement banjo union? Cheers!
  17. Cruise control not working. It's a very late model 300tdi ES auto. Seem to remember it worked when I bought the car about 10 years ago but never really bothered with it - would like to get it going, it's the latest thing on a long list I've been working through! So far I've replaced all the vacuum hoses - including the one to the brake pedal. Taken the pump out, direct wired to a 12v battery and system vacuums up ok - can see the bellows contracting, pump works ok etc. I've now replaced the pedal switch with a new one, still no joy. There didn't seem to be anything wrong with the old one (on a visual inspection) but it was the cheapest part to replace. I've checked all the brake lights, they work ok - I'm not sure if that would make a difference but checked anyway. ABS light comes on with ignition, goes off when moving etc all as it's supposed to. CC switch lights up when button pushed so power to there. It just doesn't do anything when I try to set it with the steering column switches. Noted that speed needs to be above 28mph so made sure I was going over that when testing. So, where do I go from here? I'm not an electrician but I tend to think it might be an electrical fault. Is there an easy way to check this (don't have a multimeter). Over the years the only things I've changed have been installing a tow bar (LR specialist fitted) and I did have the brake light switch replaced - not the CC one - when I realised I had no brake lights! (dealer fitted at same time as MOT). Not sure either of these would be a cause but I'm noting it to give the full story. Any ideas gratefully received! Have been looking through loads of posts on various forums about this, most seem to suggest hoses or brake light switch - but that doesn't really help me i'm afraid.
  18. I have a 1995 300 TDI Defender 110. I am trying to find the rear axle number but it is not in the location that is shown in the Workshop Manual. I've seen some comments online about others not finding it either. The front axle is clearly marked 63L07376A. Does anyone know if Land Rover didn't stamp the rear axle for that year?
  19. 1996 110 SW My windscreen has started to leak through the rubber seal along the bottom of the glass and I’ve started to chase the leak with rtv but it’s not working. Is replacing this glass seal a diy job or should I use the experts? As the glass isn’t broken there’s no insurance possibility. At the same time I thought maybe a heated screen would be a good upgrade. I wonder what experience there is with out there with these ones http://www.heatedwindscreen.com I’m thinking fit, quality and effectiveness of heating elements. As ever, any advice is gratefully received. Thanks
  20. Hey guys, my defender has broken down and do not know where to start troubleshooting. It was driving normally until I turned it off for 15 mins and when I turned it back on it had a bad knocking sound coming from the engine bay, I thought I might make it home, started driving and the noise got louder and eventually engine cut out about 5kms down the road, had to get a tow truck back home. It still cranks over, It is a 1996 300tdi with 260000kms on it. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
  21. 1) Hi, my horn has stoped working. Horn works when supplied with 12v (purple/black) and 12v arrives at Fuse 10 fom the switch (purple/black). Supply lost somewhere between the horn switch/fuse 10 and the horn itself. I can't find the horn on the RAVE wiring diagram for this car but surprisingly the switch is shown on the Engine Immobilisation schematic. It feeds Fuse 10 then the alarm relay (R200). The horn is not shown. Any clues as to how the supply gets to the horn would be appreciated. 2. I have checked the alarm relay and it is fine but not as shown on the schematic. The schematic shows 87A connected to 87 internally, I do not believe this to be correct. I understood that if the relay has 87A it should be a changeover, normally made contact with 30 as the common. My relay doesn't have 87A but has 87B which is a double pole single throw relay with 30 as the common. I have had the vehicle for 14 years and never changed a relay and the horn worked until recently. Can anyone throw any light on this? 3) I checked the alarm function and it flashes the indicators but makes no sound. I do not have a sounder shown as D110 on the schematic but have a battery backed unit shown as D154. I assume this to be faulty. I did (long after having no horn, so unconnected) let the vehicle's battery go flat a few days ago and wondered how long it takes to charge the sounder battery. I not that the manual says it charges from the generator so presumably needs the ignition on to do so. I guess, if that is the case, it is to stop the vehicke battery being discharged by charging the sounder battery. Any info appreciated.
  22. My '97 300 TDI Defender started weaping from the clutch master cyclinder into the foot well - so naturally wanted to replace it with OEM The new cyclinder is fitted and surprisingly I have most of the skin on my knuckles too; the old cyclinder had alot of black gunk at the bottom of the reservoir which I presume is from the degradation of the seals and the fluid was a muddy dark color. So my question - given the state of the fluid I was going to drain out all the old fluid from the slave and refil with fresh. Is there anything else I can or should do to remove any additional gunk ? thanks in advance
  23. I bought standard folding side steps for my 300tdi 90. Passenger side no problem but diesel tank is in the way on the driver's side. Can't get access to side rail to bolt it on and no exposed chassis to put the strut onto. Is there a different step for this?
  24. Hi Folks, 1997 Defender 110 300Tdi - Installation of a rev counter into instrument dash. Essentially removing the clock and replacing with a rev counter - albeit likely to fit next to speed and shift over the fuel gauge. Thinking then of mounting a clock (rectangular old style) on the centre dash between rear wash wipe and cigarette lighter. However, have to put this project on ice for a little while. Before I forget though, would like to have some feedback on my thoughts on how to wire this all up. Thinking of a piggy back blade onto the ignition switch (inline fuse) and connecting/extending the existing C914 clock connector ouput. Trying to keep as simple as possible while keeping the wiring loom as per factory. Please see image attached. Thoughts? Many Thanks, Simon...
  25. Hi all Having a problem with a lack of vacuum assistance on my 300tdi 90 (conversion, running td5 axles with vented front disks for what it's worth) . Having to absolutely stand on the brakes to slow down, it's not great. So far I've replaced the brake servo with a brand new one (not blue box, replaced o ring to master cylinder as well), tested that there is vacuum, tested the one way valve. Nothing has worked! Pumping the pedal until hard when the engine is off, then maintaining pressure as I start the engine and the brake pedal doesn't change at all. When I checked the vacuum I wasn't sure how strong it's meant to be, I found it much more noticeable with the engine a couple of hundred rpm above idle. Incidentally I also noticed when I changed the brake pads a couple of weeks ago that it took a herculean effort to push the pistons back in, which isn't a problem I've had before. The caliper pistons don't look that bad to me either. Not sure if that could be connected?
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