Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '300tdi'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum


There are no results to display.


  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Found 70 results

  1. 1996 110 SW My windscreen has started to leak through the rubber seal along the bottom of the glass and I’ve started to chase the leak with rtv but it’s not working. Is replacing this glass seal a diy job or should I use the experts? As the glass isn’t broken there’s no insurance possibility. At the same time I thought maybe a heated screen would be a good upgrade. I wonder what experience there is with out there with these ones http://www.heatedwindscreen.com I’m thinking fit, quality and effectiveness of heating elements. As ever, any advice is gratefully received. Thanks
  2. Hey guys, my defender has broken down and do not know where to start troubleshooting. It was driving normally until I turned it off for 15 mins and when I turned it back on it had a bad knocking sound coming from the engine bay, I thought I might make it home, started driving and the noise got louder and eventually engine cut out about 5kms down the road, had to get a tow truck back home. It still cranks over, It is a 1996 300tdi with 260000kms on it. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
  3. 300Tdi Defender no horn

    1) Hi, my horn has stoped working. Horn works when supplied with 12v (purple/black) and 12v arrives at Fuse 10 fom the switch (purple/black). Supply lost somewhere between the horn switch/fuse 10 and the horn itself. I can't find the horn on the RAVE wiring diagram for this car but surprisingly the switch is shown on the Engine Immobilisation schematic. It feeds Fuse 10 then the alarm relay (R200). The horn is not shown. Any clues as to how the supply gets to the horn would be appreciated. 2. I have checked the alarm relay and it is fine but not as shown on the schematic. The schematic shows 87A connected to 87 internally, I do not believe this to be correct. I understood that if the relay has 87A it should be a changeover, normally made contact with 30 as the common. My relay doesn't have 87A but has 87B which is a double pole single throw relay with 30 as the common. I have had the vehicle for 14 years and never changed a relay and the horn worked until recently. Can anyone throw any light on this? 3) I checked the alarm function and it flashes the indicators but makes no sound. I do not have a sounder shown as D110 on the schematic but have a battery backed unit shown as D154. I assume this to be faulty. I did (long after having no horn, so unconnected) let the vehicle's battery go flat a few days ago and wondered how long it takes to charge the sounder battery. I not that the manual says it charges from the generator so presumably needs the ignition on to do so. I guess, if that is the case, it is to stop the vehicke battery being discharged by charging the sounder battery. Any info appreciated.
  4. Clutch master cyclinder : gunk

    My '97 300 TDI Defender started weaping from the clutch master cyclinder into the foot well - so naturally wanted to replace it with OEM The new cyclinder is fitted and surprisingly I have most of the skin on my knuckles too; the old cyclinder had alot of black gunk at the bottom of the reservoir which I presume is from the degradation of the seals and the fluid was a muddy dark color. So my question - given the state of the fluid I was going to drain out all the old fluid from the slave and refil with fresh. Is there anything else I can or should do to remove any additional gunk ? thanks in advance
  5. Side steps

    I bought standard folding side steps for my 300tdi 90. Passenger side no problem but diesel tank is in the way on the driver's side. Can't get access to side rail to bolt it on and no exposed chassis to put the strut onto. Is there a different step for this?
  6. Rev Counter - 300Tdi

    Hi Folks, 1997 Defender 110 300Tdi - Installation of a rev counter into instrument dash. Essentially removing the clock and replacing with a rev counter - albeit likely to fit next to speed and shift over the fuel gauge. Thinking then of mounting a clock (rectangular old style) on the centre dash between rear wash wipe and cigarette lighter. However, have to put this project on ice for a little while. Before I forget though, would like to have some feedback on my thoughts on how to wire this all up. Thinking of a piggy back blade onto the ignition switch (inline fuse) and connecting/extending the existing C914 clock connector ouput. Trying to keep as simple as possible while keeping the wiring loom as per factory. Please see image attached. Thoughts? Many Thanks, Simon...
  7. Oil Pump Failure

    On our way back from Lightning Ridge to have a look at my neighbors opal mine the alarm went off 22 K's north of Gilgandra - no turbo pressure, no oil pressure. I turned the engine off and coated onto the grass verge on the side of the road. From there we arranged for a tow into Gilgandra, not the best town in the west - they dont even have a taxi service ! I initially thought that maybe the turbo bearing(s) had blown but that wasn't the case, I disconnected the oil feed line to the oil cooler, pulled off the fuel solenoid power supply to stop the motor from running and turned the motor over for a good 45 seconds - no oil ! the level in the sump was on the mark so it wasn't due to lack of engine oil in the sump and I've been since advised that the inner "gear" on the oil pump have been known to crack in two resulting in zero oil flow --- has anyone heard of this before ? I'm secretly hoping its just the oil pick-up pipe that's come adrift but I wont know until Saturday after I drive there with a trailer to pick the Disco up.
  8. Brake vacuum problem

    Hi all Having a problem with a lack of vacuum assistance on my 300tdi 90 (conversion, running td5 axles with vented front disks for what it's worth) . Having to absolutely stand on the brakes to slow down, it's not great. So far I've replaced the brake servo with a brand new one (not blue box, replaced o ring to master cylinder as well), tested that there is vacuum, tested the one way valve. Nothing has worked! Pumping the pedal until hard when the engine is off, then maintaining pressure as I start the engine and the brake pedal doesn't change at all. When I checked the vacuum I wasn't sure how strong it's meant to be, I found it much more noticeable with the engine a couple of hundred rpm above idle. Incidentally I also noticed when I changed the brake pads a couple of weeks ago that it took a herculean effort to push the pistons back in, which isn't a problem I've had before. The caliper pistons don't look that bad to me either. Not sure if that could be connected?
  9. Hello all, Been an avid reader on here for a few years and always found it to be a great source of guidance and inspiration so thank you all very much. I own a '97 90 300tdi that I am in the process of a complete rebuild onto a galvanised Richards Chassis. Attempted to fit the bulkhead to it yesterday.... only to find the bulkhead doesn't fit :-( The holes in the chassis are 12mm further apart than the holes at the bottom of the bulkhead A pillars. The bulkhead is the original item although I have welded in new footwells and had it galvanised. Whilst never expecting a perfect fit, 12mm does seem to be a bit much to force the A pillars apart to make it fit. Wondering if anyone has come across a similiar problem and can offer any guidance as to whats best to do? Chassis measures 1505 mm hole center hole to center. Bulkhead measures 1493 hole to hole center.
  10. Disco 1 windscreen washer pump

    Hi all, I've got myself into a problem with my windscreen washer pump. As you can see from the photos, the connection isn't the regular run of the mill, possibly down to my disco 1 300tdi being one of the last to roll off the production line. The male connector has two prong with a metal cube attached to each prong. One of these "cubes" managed to fall out and it can't make a proper connection with the pump anymore. End result is a blown fuse with each attempt to wash the windscreen. I overcame this by swapping the tubing so that when i press rear wash button it sprays my windscreen but this has now become an issue for my MOT. Any suggestions on how i might rectify this? I've ordered a standard washer pump which takes the standard two pin connector (same as what my rear washer pump has) and was hoping to get my hands on a male connector (white) to wire up to replace my red two prong connector. Is this easily done? FYI both pumps have two wires connected, a black and a green. Thanks in advance, Frank
  11. I have a Defender 110 300TDI with a Puma dash conversion. I need to get the rev-counter, temperature gauge and fuel gauge to work. The speedometer works btw. I understand that the rev counter can be made to work by getting a signal from the W terminal in the alternator, but I am unsure if that will work with a Puma gauge cluster, I don't wanna risk ruining the gauges. So how can I get these gauges to work?
  12. My '95 land rover discovery auto diesel with the 300tdi engine was sitting for afew months and when i got it going again its got this weird issue with the engine. when you push down the accelerator the revs will go up like normal but will soon drop down to just below 1500rpm and stay there, no matter how far you push the peddle in it wont go any higher it is possible to get it working steady but only if the peddle is pumped up over 3000rpm Heres a video showing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdaEkRXyZWM I have fresh fuel, cleaned the sedimenter, new fuel filter, new lift pump, checked injectors were working correctly, usual exhaust emissions. would love to get out driving again as its my kayak wagon, any help greatly appreciated.
  13. I am looking for a new engine for my Defender 300tdi, appreciate it is a long shot but does anyone know where I can purchase one new in the crate? I am based in NZ, so will be shipping International, so an exchange unit is not ideal. Alternatively can you give feedback on the various engine re-conditioners in UK. Thanks V much P
  14. Okay, as some of you may be aware I'm going to be driving down the Canning Stock route from Halls Creek to Wiluna in Western Australia riding shotgun for a mate who intends cycling the 1800 odd kilometers, of sand dunes, corrugations and salt lakes in a planned 10 days or less. He intends cycling at least 10 hours a day so lil' old me will be pottering along some 2 k's behind him at around 19 kph. I am not allowed to give assistance merely to carry his spares and tools. He has to carry his own food, water bedding tent etc. WA has received an extraordinary and unseasonable amount of rain this year and the spinifex has grown. Now, for those of you who haven't encountered spinifex imagine a nasty vindictive vegetable porcupine rooted deep into the soil. It may be a form of tussock grass but trust me it can and in my case the sharp stalks have punctured my tyres both in the side walls and right through the tread. The problem is that the stalks are so thin that external detection of the leak with soapy water is almost impossible, the only solution is fully immersing the wheel in a tank of water - and tanks of water are rare in the desert. The solution is to remove the case and fit a new one, I carry a pneumatic bead breaker and tyre levers and although I'd rather get someone else to do it, - because its bloody hard exhausting work - I can and have replaced several tyre cases. So, okay I will be taking around 10 wheel/tyres with me, Mounted on my six rims will be 6 Bridgestone Desert Duellers - these are 235/70R16. I also have 4 Maxxis 225/75R16. My question to the forum is this; the rolling diameter of the Bridgestones is a theoretical 29" (if they were brand new with 100% tread, which they are not, they all have around 7mm of tread depth to the limit bar) the Maxxis are a theoretical 29 1/4" - again if they were brand new with full tread, again they are not, they also have around 7mm of tread to the limit bar. So, can I use the Bridgestones and the Maxxis together on the same axle with reasonable impunity with only 1/4" (6mm) diameter difference bearing in mind that if I get a puncture in the desert they will be running around 16 psi - do I have to use the same tyre brand/size on the same axle or can I mix-match as and if I get a puncture ?
  15. After my 300 TDI wouldn't stay timed I opened up the case and stared at it for a long time. After a while I realized the crankshaft timing gear wasn't quite aligned with the outer woodruff key cutout. After pretty much destroying my gear puller and 8 M5 bolts I was able to get it off. Make sure you use a hammer and chisel to knock it back in line before going after it with a puller. I replaced it with what I think is a higher quality gear and put the crank pulley bolt on good and tight. Now she is right as rain.
  16. Hi all, I'm new to the forum and was looking for a part number or specific size of the two bolts which secure the fuel lift pump to the block on a discovery 1 300tdi. I somehow managed to lose a bolt while i was putting on a new delphi pump on mine today. Don't ask! Rough measurement of the bolt i have is a hex flange m8x25mm. Is that correct? Have searched high and low online for a part number but to no avail. Thanks in advance, Frank
  17. 300tdi turbo wastegate

    Hi a quick update of the saga so far. My 110 had always been a bit smokey under power, but fine off boost. I had a look at the fuel pump, and sure enough it had been twiddled with. I turned the top back about 30 degrees towards the original witness mark on the conical pin, and things were improved, though there was a small loss in acceleration. That was where I left it until sourcing an EGT gauge, and now a boost gauge. The max EGT was 770 degrees on a long hill towing, so I shudder to think what it was before turning the top of the pump back. I have now finally got a boost gauge, and have adjusted the wastegate push rod to give additional boost. I made an adjustment of two turns shortening the rod, and went back to the same incline. Boost has increased from 1 bar to 1.1~ 1.2 bar, and the EGT has dropped to 695 degrees. It's too dark to discern the smoke now, but looking at the headlights behind, it seems to be greatly improved. more fettling tomorrow to see if the initial acceleration can be improved. Mike
  18. Timing Belt tensioner

    Hi everyone I have a Turner 300TDi 21L (from Disco I think) in my 1996 110 and I'm preparing to do the timing belt. I asked a supplier about a kit and they've asked me if the belt tensioner has a lip on it or not (even though I told them it's a 21L). Is there a definitive answer based on the engine code, should I ask Turners or would I need to wait till I can see it? Thanks
  19. Hi there all. My 300tdi got some issue recently, been reading all the threads but none seem to match exactly.. The disco got 180000 on clock, but engine was from a range with less mileage. Has always run well over last 7years. Took it to spain couple of years ago, up the Sierra Nevada 3000m skiing. Was bloody cold! At that point I had semisynthetic GTX oil in to cope with the cold.. on leaving the Sierra a few days parked at sub zero C. It smoked blue like a smoke machine for a little while.. Downhill steep. Totally cleared in 10min. it has since been getting a little more smoke over time. Untill it completely covered the hole car in blue smoke!! Could see nothing at a junction. My workshop was round the corner.. Power was fine. More smoke when accelerating.. While running took oil filler cap off.. Lots of pressure. Little smoke. Checked cyclone was working fine.. Oil dripping out of exhaust joint after turbo. the next day I degreased engine and drove it into workshop. Definitely little smokey but not as badly as before, also no pressure at oil filler any more..? Turbo: took hoses off. Little play side to side but no fire and aft. So fine as per gencoe website. While running, no oil on cold side. removed manifolds: no oil in inlet manifold, none in exhaust.. Slight oily gasket at cylinder 4 Started engine without manifolds.. Engine cold, this is the next day.. oil started collecting in all four exhaust ports?!? The rear two it was puddling quite soon... I started to remove head.. I know now I should have done a compression test, but don't have a tester.. to my surprise the gasket seems to be in good condition..??!!? Still see crosshatch on bores. That's as far as I've got.. Btw first real engine work for me, apart from my scooter rebuild 20 years ago.. Will clean it all up today find a straight edge and check head flatness.. What next?? Could it be piston rings? Or valve seals/guides? How to check.. anything else..? All comments appreciated.. Well.. DD
  20. To keep me amused during the coming winter months (to us in Oz thats any temperature below 10 degrees C) I am in the process of rebuilding a 300TDi. Once built it will go into my Disco and I'll sell the incumbant - 370,000 kilometers - to recover some of the costs. At the moment the crank is off being nitrided, it has already been X-rayed and has no cracks or defects, the nitriding process hardens the surface and makes the whole crank more durable, once that has been done the jurnals will be reground to suit new main and big end bearings. Once this is done the entire crank, flex plate and main pulley will be ballanced to spin at 12000 rmp, well over the expected maximum of 4000 so it should spin very sweetly. Currently the block has been stripped down and the welsh plugs removed, the water ways were shot blasted with glass beads and some 1/2 a cup of foundry sand removed (and this from a 1999 engine that has done over 400,000 kilometres!) the block was then immersed in a chemical bath to totally remove every last vestige of paint and grease and its now in the process of being repainted - in BMC spruse green - mainly because I have a couple of tins over from doing up a Cooper S motor some years back! The next step will be to have it sleaved and rebored back to standard, currently its 0.090" oversize. The conrods will then be checked to make sure that they are all exactly the same lenght and if not then stretched to match the longest one before being ballanced - all equal to teh lightest rod. The new pistons will be checked to ensure that the volume of teh combustion chambers are all equal, if not then the smaller will be polised out to equal that of the largest volume before they too are measured for length from gudgeon pin to crown, again, some lapping may be required to ensure they are all the same length. Land Rover are fairly slack in this area with different cylinders having compressions of up to 70 psi being acceptable, I'm aiming for no more than 15 psi between any cylinder. A new camshaft will be fitted with new camshaft bearings and oil pump drive, at the same time I'll be investigating to see if I am able to fit IVECO hydraulic tappets and if so what additional oil ways will need to be drilled. I'll keep you informed as work progresses.
  21. I am having power problems on my 1995 Discovery 300tdi. One of the items to check is the Lift Fuel pump, which I changed. However, even is I put cylinder #1 on top, the fuel pump press again the cam a few mm and thus, deactivates the lift pump lever and I can not use the lever to purge the line. I got a second lift pump and it is the same. I am missing something?
  22. Hi Can I ask an easy question and get a quick answer? Hope so... One of the last checks I want to make on my 300 tdi is that the waste gate is opening. I'm planning to fit a pressure gauge so that I can see the boost and if necessary adjust the time that it occurs but I don't have that yet. I firstly thought I'd verify that the gate does in fact open and as I haven't any experience I don't know if my normal driving experience would show this - it probably would if I knew what to look for. So my quick Q is that I have removed the pipe to the FIP and stuck an airline into the fitting that also goes to the waste gate actuator but nothing happens. I have air compressor tank pressure of 2 or 3 Bar (I can have more) and I'm using a trigger blow gun thing with a short length of tube on it. Most of the air comes back out of the turbo intake (I have the in-feed pipe from the air filter off at the moment). Should I bang in enough air, put my hand over the turbo inlet or what? The engine is in the vehicle. (be gentle) Thanks
  23. Last year we did a first road trip in our 1996 110 CSW 300 TDi - having done loads by car. This time we wanted the chance to drive off road (just a little) and not worry about getting stuck. This is how we looked on our way through Austria - the first night where we didn't put up the tent and slept in the back and here's a few of our sleeping platform too The route: Ferry Hull to Rotterdam, Holland, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Serbia, Macedonia, Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, France and ferry from Calais. In all 6,160 miles and about eight weeks. I will add to the post over the coming days with a few pics - hopefully is will help anyone contemplating going to that area. Most travellers either go to Greece by ferry from Italy or drive round the back from Hungary to Bulgaria. We went into Serbia and although we only spent a night there, it was a lovely experience and I can recommend it.
  24. Not wanting to clutter the other thread where I have used the head-still-on method to change my seals (here) I'd like to use a new thread to ask more advice from the wealth of knowledge on this forum. When I changed the seals the first time, the blue smoke was worse, not clearing at all with the engine idling on the drive. I had a look at what I'd done and realised that I hadn't correctly located some of the seals onto the tops of the valve guides. So I did it again, repeating the method but trying to ensure that they were tapped on properly. I use the same seals as they all looked ok without any damage. However the blue smoke persistsed - clearing after 200m. So I looked a third time yesterday. Here are a couple of pics. As you can see, two seals have lifted. If I push them back on they pull off with slight finger pressure. One responded to a firmer tap and wouldn't then pull off so easily but one of the new seals won't locate as well as an old one. So I fitted an old one - picked one that seems to drag on the stem (hope that means a oil tight fit). Put it back together a third time, reset tappets and left overnight. It wasn't as cold this morning but I still got 200m of blue smoke. Hmm... Now I suspect the new seals and wonder if anyone else has had poor quality ones? I paid £2.89 +vat each for genuine parts but they have absolutely no manufacturer marks on them and they were in a plain bag. I've asked the (reputable) supplier to confirm that they are genuine but that was only yesterday and no reply received yet. Can I suspect the seals themselves? It can't be too difficult to seat them properly can it? If my blue smoke clears after 200m then it can't be anything else can it? Got to get it sorted as it's very anti-social as you drive through campsites (or down the road past the neighbours).
  25. Hi all, I've started to think about my 300TDi engine and what might need doing after ~110K miles. One item on the list, is to have a look at the injectors. I approached a local diesel overhaul specialist (great testimonials on the www, mainly for pump overhauls) and was advised that testing is £5 each and reconditioning £70 (probably plus VAT). As a cross check (and not having a clue about costs in this area) I looked at the price of new and saw quickly that Bosch injectors are £68+ VAT each. So is this a case that sometimes it's no more expensive to buy new? Or is it that new are nowadays not of the same quality as a set that have probably been on the engine for 19 years? I'm a bit confused and need some direction! Thanks