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Found 82 results

  1. Hi, I'm having a problem with my 1998 300tdi. Slow to start, sits fine at idle, dies on acceleration. Sounds familiar, simple fix, change the lift pump. But no! Lift pump changed, no difference. So changed fuel filter, air filter, oil filter (not related but I was in a filter mood). Engine starts slowly runs on idles, dies on acceleration. Possible dodgy replacement lift pump? Off it comes and another one put on. Tested both for blow/suck on activating the pump lever. All good. Start it up, fine on idle, (you know where this is going) dies on acceleration. So I crack the banjo bolts on the fuel filter and there's a healthy flow coming through. Checked the bleed screw, expecting some bubbles then fuel. Nothing coming out at all. I take the bleed screw out completely, still nothing. Out of curiosity I put my finger over the bleed hole and there's positive air pressure building up behind it. So much so that it gives a good hiss when I take my finger off, like if you had your thumb over the end of a bike pump... There's no obvious drips or leaks, of fuel anyway! Any thoughts on what could be causing my issue or whats next in the check list?
  2. I will link to this thread from my re-build thread but thought a separate question might be a good idea. A couple of days ago I started-up and there was a lot of white smoke which eventually disappeared. A few miles later on another re-start it was clear, just the usual black puff. Yesterday it did the same and then again today. So I have started thinking. 300TDi, 165K miles and 15K / 2.5 years since the timing belt was changed. I'm in the UK and today was 4C / 39F max so it isn't cold. The things I think that I need to check are: 1. FIP timing - I can "roughly" check this using the flywheel pin for TDC and pin in the FIP but I haven't got a DTI kit to check at the back of the pump. I'd be expecting to need to advance slightly but I don't know why it would require this "suddenly". 2. Cam timing / crank sprocket position - need to remove the crank pulley and timing case - so this is a last resort? I'd be expecting a slight move of the crank sprocket but I am sure that I torqued the crank pulley correctly when I did the belt. 3. Injectors - these are as old as the engine but were cleaned and checked at a specialist 3+ years and 25K miles ago. Should I spend £300 or whatever they are now? Almost forgot 4. Head gasket leak of air. There is no coolant loss. Any advice as to what to do first?
  3. In the cold weather in Jan 2011 I noticed an oil leak which was worse than usual and tracked it down to the oil filter which had come quite loose and was dripping a drop of oil every 5 yards or so - not far off coming off completely, with the predictable unwelcome consequences. I have since kept an eye open for this problem, and it has not recurred, but we had little cold weather last winter. This evening my better half mentioned a patch of black snow where the Landy had been, and sure enough the oil filter had loosened about 10th turn. I have always used LR or good aftermarket filters, smeared the rubber washer with oil before fitting and done them up by hand as tight as I could from underneath (getting a strap wrench in on a Def 90 300TDI is a pain). And two filters a year in normal weather - no problem. However, very cold UK weather (down to -10degC) and then a warm engine does seem to cause them to come loose. On the race cars, we lockwire oil filters on because of the vibration, but that is not so easy on a 300TDi. Has anyone seen this before or is it just me ? If so is there a simple solution this side of lockwire, or crawling underneath in the snow and checking ? Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere. Regards Richard
  4. I have a RRC with a 2.5L VM diesel with LT77 5-speed. I have access to a running 300tdi from a Defender. What parts do I need to get the motor swapped into my Range Rover Classic? I would like to keep my LT77 as the Defender's R380 needs rebuilding and my LT77 is just fine. Appreciate the input! Eric
  5. Hi, I've got a manual 300tdi disco. The speedo stopped working the other day, but then half way through my journey it just picked back up and continued fine. It's done this a couple more times now. Any ideas what component is at fault? Cheers.
  6. Hi folks, I'm hoping one of you landy lovers can help me with my disco1 it's a 300tdi 1998 auto 2.5 All was good, mot due November and I planned to take her off the road over winter for some new panels body mounts etc . I've always had a dodgy fob(ALWAYS) where the battery cradle solders broke and I just occasionally reposition it if it ever fails. Couple weeks ago my wife borrowed it but couldn't sort immobilizer so I went to it jiggled it and away we went. But she said get that spare fob programmed at the garage up the road.(know for programming these 2button old rover style in the past). He was busy and said leave with him the day...... I turn up and he muttered something about no good it won't program.. BUT now it doesn't even start! He towed it out the work shop gave me a hand held diagnostics to play with for a day(he used some ol' tall computer trolley job ) locked up and that was that.! Btw we do know each other and I'm familiar with diagnostics tools hence the loan . I called someone for a slow tow back home . He also gave me 2 spare fobs to try that he couldn't get to learn . After he I thought start at the beginning... Including the spare I gave him and the 2 others he had , not a battery between them! New battery in one and I learned the key within a minute.BUT still locks unlocks turns over but no fire. Here's what I've done so far.. Removed dash .. no spider behind radio Checked there is a live feed to single wire solenoid .. yes. Renewed solenoid switch Renewed lift pump. Fitted today a small fuel pump inline. So there fuel getting to pump but not from there to injectors? It's the pump with 7wire multi plug on the side going to a black box bolted to the other side of pump ..🙈 Any help very much appreciated.
  7. The 300tdi runs fine in my 90. 137k miles. Sometimes starting isn't so good. Turn key and it fires then dies. Then follows plenty cranking 10 secs at a time for three or four times. Then a few fire and die cycles then a lumpy start and settles fine. Rarely does it second start of the day and sometimes goes a week starting first turn. Thinking it may be a fuel problem. Perhaps a leak letting air in and draining pipes down to tank. Can't see any fuel leaks. Any suggestions as to where to start looking? Thanks
  8. I have a constant niggle; the throttle cable adjuster keeps winding itself forward and loosening the cable. It moves very easily on its thread.I have put a P clip on the spiral threaded part of the cable to try to prevent it and that worked for a while but it is doing it again. I have had a look and can't see I am missing any parts, eg a clip. Can anyone suggest a cure or am I missing something? If it needs a new cable, fine, but I have a feeling the problem would continue. Regards Nigel
  9. Can anyone tell me the part number of the retaining sleeve circled in red? They come in plastic or metal. Thanks
  10. I have been told that the army versions of the 300 Tdi are slightly stronger - as in more BHP - and have been build to a better quality than their civilian versions. Although I'm aware that they came usu. in 24 volt form, this claim is new to me. My questions are : 1 - is this extra power a myth ? 2 - 24 volt worth keeping ? 3 - Is there any way, apart from the rebuild plate, to trace the history of an engine ? Thanks.
  11. Hi all, I've managed to snap the barbed hose fitting off the banjo fitting on one of the injectors on my 200tdi. Numpty. I know that these banjos take a 6mm bolt and the barb fits a 3.2mm or 1/8 ID pipe. But I can't find such a thing for sale anywhere and want to avoid replacing the whole spill rail if possible. Can anyone help with a source for a replacement banjo union? Cheers!
  12. Cruise control not working. It's a very late model 300tdi ES auto. Seem to remember it worked when I bought the car about 10 years ago but never really bothered with it - would like to get it going, it's the latest thing on a long list I've been working through! So far I've replaced all the vacuum hoses - including the one to the brake pedal. Taken the pump out, direct wired to a 12v battery and system vacuums up ok - can see the bellows contracting, pump works ok etc. I've now replaced the pedal switch with a new one, still no joy. There didn't seem to be anything wrong with the old one (on a visual inspection) but it was the cheapest part to replace. I've checked all the brake lights, they work ok - I'm not sure if that would make a difference but checked anyway. ABS light comes on with ignition, goes off when moving etc all as it's supposed to. CC switch lights up when button pushed so power to there. It just doesn't do anything when I try to set it with the steering column switches. Noted that speed needs to be above 28mph so made sure I was going over that when testing. So, where do I go from here? I'm not an electrician but I tend to think it might be an electrical fault. Is there an easy way to check this (don't have a multimeter). Over the years the only things I've changed have been installing a tow bar (LR specialist fitted) and I did have the brake light switch replaced - not the CC one - when I realised I had no brake lights! (dealer fitted at same time as MOT). Not sure either of these would be a cause but I'm noting it to give the full story. Any ideas gratefully received! Have been looking through loads of posts on various forums about this, most seem to suggest hoses or brake light switch - but that doesn't really help me i'm afraid.
  13. I have a 1995 300 TDI Defender 110. I am trying to find the rear axle number but it is not in the location that is shown in the Workshop Manual. I've seen some comments online about others not finding it either. The front axle is clearly marked 63L07376A. Does anyone know if Land Rover didn't stamp the rear axle for that year?
  14. 1996 110 SW My windscreen has started to leak through the rubber seal along the bottom of the glass and I’ve started to chase the leak with rtv but it’s not working. Is replacing this glass seal a diy job or should I use the experts? As the glass isn’t broken there’s no insurance possibility. At the same time I thought maybe a heated screen would be a good upgrade. I wonder what experience there is with out there with these ones http://www.heatedwindscreen.com I’m thinking fit, quality and effectiveness of heating elements. As ever, any advice is gratefully received. Thanks
  15. Hey guys, my defender has broken down and do not know where to start troubleshooting. It was driving normally until I turned it off for 15 mins and when I turned it back on it had a bad knocking sound coming from the engine bay, I thought I might make it home, started driving and the noise got louder and eventually engine cut out about 5kms down the road, had to get a tow truck back home. It still cranks over, It is a 1996 300tdi with 260000kms on it. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
  16. 1) Hi, my horn has stoped working. Horn works when supplied with 12v (purple/black) and 12v arrives at Fuse 10 fom the switch (purple/black). Supply lost somewhere between the horn switch/fuse 10 and the horn itself. I can't find the horn on the RAVE wiring diagram for this car but surprisingly the switch is shown on the Engine Immobilisation schematic. It feeds Fuse 10 then the alarm relay (R200). The horn is not shown. Any clues as to how the supply gets to the horn would be appreciated. 2. I have checked the alarm relay and it is fine but not as shown on the schematic. The schematic shows 87A connected to 87 internally, I do not believe this to be correct. I understood that if the relay has 87A it should be a changeover, normally made contact with 30 as the common. My relay doesn't have 87A but has 87B which is a double pole single throw relay with 30 as the common. I have had the vehicle for 14 years and never changed a relay and the horn worked until recently. Can anyone throw any light on this? 3) I checked the alarm function and it flashes the indicators but makes no sound. I do not have a sounder shown as D110 on the schematic but have a battery backed unit shown as D154. I assume this to be faulty. I did (long after having no horn, so unconnected) let the vehicle's battery go flat a few days ago and wondered how long it takes to charge the sounder battery. I not that the manual says it charges from the generator so presumably needs the ignition on to do so. I guess, if that is the case, it is to stop the vehicke battery being discharged by charging the sounder battery. Any info appreciated.
  17. My '97 300 TDI Defender started weaping from the clutch master cyclinder into the foot well - so naturally wanted to replace it with OEM The new cyclinder is fitted and surprisingly I have most of the skin on my knuckles too; the old cyclinder had alot of black gunk at the bottom of the reservoir which I presume is from the degradation of the seals and the fluid was a muddy dark color. So my question - given the state of the fluid I was going to drain out all the old fluid from the slave and refil with fresh. Is there anything else I can or should do to remove any additional gunk ? thanks in advance
  18. I bought standard folding side steps for my 300tdi 90. Passenger side no problem but diesel tank is in the way on the driver's side. Can't get access to side rail to bolt it on and no exposed chassis to put the strut onto. Is there a different step for this?
  19. Hi Folks, 1997 Defender 110 300Tdi - Installation of a rev counter into instrument dash. Essentially removing the clock and replacing with a rev counter - albeit likely to fit next to speed and shift over the fuel gauge. Thinking then of mounting a clock (rectangular old style) on the centre dash between rear wash wipe and cigarette lighter. However, have to put this project on ice for a little while. Before I forget though, would like to have some feedback on my thoughts on how to wire this all up. Thinking of a piggy back blade onto the ignition switch (inline fuse) and connecting/extending the existing C914 clock connector ouput. Trying to keep as simple as possible while keeping the wiring loom as per factory. Please see image attached. Thoughts? Many Thanks, Simon...
  20. On our way back from Lightning Ridge to have a look at my neighbors opal mine the alarm went off 22 K's north of Gilgandra - no turbo pressure, no oil pressure. I turned the engine off and coated onto the grass verge on the side of the road. From there we arranged for a tow into Gilgandra, not the best town in the west - they dont even have a taxi service ! I initially thought that maybe the turbo bearing(s) had blown but that wasn't the case, I disconnected the oil feed line to the oil cooler, pulled off the fuel solenoid power supply to stop the motor from running and turned the motor over for a good 45 seconds - no oil ! the level in the sump was on the mark so it wasn't due to lack of engine oil in the sump and I've been since advised that the inner "gear" on the oil pump have been known to crack in two resulting in zero oil flow --- has anyone heard of this before ? I'm secretly hoping its just the oil pick-up pipe that's come adrift but I wont know until Saturday after I drive there with a trailer to pick the Disco up.
  21. Hi all Having a problem with a lack of vacuum assistance on my 300tdi 90 (conversion, running td5 axles with vented front disks for what it's worth) . Having to absolutely stand on the brakes to slow down, it's not great. So far I've replaced the brake servo with a brand new one (not blue box, replaced o ring to master cylinder as well), tested that there is vacuum, tested the one way valve. Nothing has worked! Pumping the pedal until hard when the engine is off, then maintaining pressure as I start the engine and the brake pedal doesn't change at all. When I checked the vacuum I wasn't sure how strong it's meant to be, I found it much more noticeable with the engine a couple of hundred rpm above idle. Incidentally I also noticed when I changed the brake pads a couple of weeks ago that it took a herculean effort to push the pistons back in, which isn't a problem I've had before. The caliper pistons don't look that bad to me either. Not sure if that could be connected?
  22. Hello all, Been an avid reader on here for a few years and always found it to be a great source of guidance and inspiration so thank you all very much. I own a '97 90 300tdi that I am in the process of a complete rebuild onto a galvanised Richards Chassis. Attempted to fit the bulkhead to it yesterday.... only to find the bulkhead doesn't fit :-( The holes in the chassis are 12mm further apart than the holes at the bottom of the bulkhead A pillars. The bulkhead is the original item although I have welded in new footwells and had it galvanised. Whilst never expecting a perfect fit, 12mm does seem to be a bit much to force the A pillars apart to make it fit. Wondering if anyone has come across a similiar problem and can offer any guidance as to whats best to do? Chassis measures 1505 mm hole center hole to center. Bulkhead measures 1493 hole to hole center.
  23. Hi all, I've got myself into a problem with my windscreen washer pump. As you can see from the photos, the connection isn't the regular run of the mill, possibly down to my disco 1 300tdi being one of the last to roll off the production line. The male connector has two prong with a metal cube attached to each prong. One of these "cubes" managed to fall out and it can't make a proper connection with the pump anymore. End result is a blown fuse with each attempt to wash the windscreen. I overcame this by swapping the tubing so that when i press rear wash button it sprays my windscreen but this has now become an issue for my MOT. Any suggestions on how i might rectify this? I've ordered a standard washer pump which takes the standard two pin connector (same as what my rear washer pump has) and was hoping to get my hands on a male connector (white) to wire up to replace my red two prong connector. Is this easily done? FYI both pumps have two wires connected, a black and a green. Thanks in advance, Frank
  24. I have a Defender 110 300TDI with a Puma dash conversion. I need to get the rev-counter, temperature gauge and fuel gauge to work. The speedometer works btw. I understand that the rev counter can be made to work by getting a signal from the W terminal in the alternator, but I am unsure if that will work with a Puma gauge cluster, I don't wanna risk ruining the gauges. So how can I get these gauges to work?
  25. My '95 land rover discovery auto diesel with the 300tdi engine was sitting for afew months and when i got it going again its got this weird issue with the engine. when you push down the accelerator the revs will go up like normal but will soon drop down to just below 1500rpm and stay there, no matter how far you push the peddle in it wont go any higher it is possible to get it working steady but only if the peddle is pumped up over 3000rpm Heres a video showing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdaEkRXyZWM I have fresh fuel, cleaned the sedimenter, new fuel filter, new lift pump, checked injectors were working correctly, usual exhaust emissions. would love to get out driving again as its my kayak wagon, any help greatly appreciated.
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