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Found 21 results

  1. Hi all, new to this forum. I am based in the UK...(down in the sunny south west) I own & drive a 1994 110 CSW...like everyone else it’s a love hate relationship....My 110 is pretty tidy apart from the dreaded rot fairy has taken hold of my doors. They look great outside but are being eaten from the inside out 😒 I am sure this Q? may have come up before but times move on and new outfits enter the market I’ve been researching alternatives to replacement of my doors with stock or galvanised aftermarket parts. Can I ask if anyone has 1st hand experience with fibreglass defender doors?....how are they?...do they feel good and tactile?....is there more road noise?...how robust are they?I came across a company here in the Uk Acorn fibreglass who make doors and have messaged them. I am awaiting a response. Are there any other alternatives out there to fibreglass?...in this day and age surely there must be someone that’s solved the age old issue of the Landy rot fairyThe idea of rot proof lightweight doors appeals to me but suspect there may be some drawbacks?... All the best.... the Cornishman
  2. Hello, I have a 1987 90 in the Caribbean and I would like to install the Deluxe Series Seats by Exmoortrim on a series 1 1988 tygan vinyl seat base. Would this be possible? Need to know before I buy as shipping it hellish and once they arrive they can't be returned. Link Below from Craddock: Seat Base - https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/ext393-ty-tygan-vinyl-seat-base-8688-series-1-raf-blue.html Seats - https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/ext378-1-deluxe-black-vinyl-full-seat-set-series-3-by-exmoor.html This is the little devil.
  3. I’m a new Defender owner and have a lot to learn. The truck has been fully serviced and inspected. Mechanic said she is in good shape. My current issue seemed to happen overnight. When I try to shift into 1 or reverse after starting up the stick is blocked from going in. When I turn off the truck and shift it slides in easily. I was told sometimes you need to “reset” the 4x4 stick to open the pathways but it doesn’t seem to work. I have set the 4x4 to the off position. Any ideas or tips would be appreciated!
  4. Hi Guys, I have a simple question that I cannot find the answer to anywhere.. I've just had the roof and side panels on my TDCI off and can't remember what spacers were used to set the gap between the tub and side panels. Can anyone suggest what spacers + a link if possible.
  5. My son has a 1992 (K reg) landrover 90 that he drove for a few years before deciding to strip it down to do it up. He has now moved away and would like to sell it. The question is how much is this worth, in a partly disembled state and missing a gearbox and tranfer case? Would it be better to try and get a gearbox etc so I am selling a complete vehicle or is it not worth it? Where is the best place to sell the vehicle - ebay or is there a site for enthusiasts that I should try. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  6. Hey guys, I have 2000 Defender 90 TD5. It's the XS model so came with ABS. Over the last year it had developed the infamous 3 amigos. But they didn't all light at once. When you started up ABS and TC remained lit. Then upon using the brakes for the first time after starting, there was little to no braking power. It felt like the brakes were grinding. After letting off the brake and braking again they worked perfectly (without ABS) but the brake warning lamp came on and stayed on. I had the codes read with a Hawkeye Pro and it was throwing everything related to ABS. The mechanic suggested removing ABS entirely and replacing with non-ABS braking system. He specialises in Land Rovers had done it previously to another Defender. So now the jobs all done, braking is perfect, but the 3 lights are constantly illuminated. Reading the codes shows the following: "ECU ground or Reference ground fault" "Front Left sensor electrical failure" Clearing the codes gets rids of the sensor fault but ECU ground fault stays, and the 3 amigos never go out. Has anyone has any similar experiences or idea on where to start looking? I used a multi-meter to test the ground from ECU to -ve terminal and it was fine.
  7. Here's a few pics of my custom built D90 Landy. Hope you like. To see the build thread see this link... http://www.scalerc.co.uk/forum/forums-finest-builds/10372-bones-scx10-landrover-d90-build.html https://youtu.be/2HV4FX6JKn8 https://youtu.be/KnMF9lsc64o https://youtu.be/GgKrSRFsvLA
  8. Hi Guys Cant find anything on this site or any others about this particular topic. Ive got a PTO winch on my 90 that is bolted on to the back of the transfer box, having never had one before it's all very mysterious to me. When stripping down the truck for a clutch change I stupidly took a bolt out of the bottom of the PTO box and got covered in oil that I wasn't expecting to be there! Question is does anyone know what oil I need to put back in there and how I go about doing it thanks in advance Farky
  9. Hi all, I have a small, rusted hole in the bulkhead, just to the inside of one of the bonnet hinges. I was going to weld it initially, but I can no longer get hold of a mig, so I'm coming up with alternative suggestions... I'm currently looking at Evo-Stik's hard & fast metal epoxy putty, and my plan is to strip all the paint and rusty metal off, apply an anti-rust solution (any recommendations?), allow that to dry, then fill the entire hole with the epoxy putty (and thereby hopefully prevent it from coming away at the edges). Conveniently enough, my 90 matches smooth white Hammerite perfectly, so I was then going to paint over the putty with Hammerite. If it doesn't work out, I'll just have to get it welded in the future, but can anyone see any problems with my current plan? I'd appreciate any advice you can give me! Cheers, Will P.S. I also have a reasonably large dent in one of the wheel arches. Any tips on getting dents out?
  10. Hi guys I've just joined as thinking of my first defender, had a couple range rovers. Question, I know the answer is over loaded but have no choice. I've got a 4.3 ton chevy which is coming to Italy on the back of a trailer, as I said I know I'm gonna be to,d it's over weight. I'm think of a 90 to do the job as it with be kept and upgraded when in Italy, will a remap help towing this wait as didn't realise that land rover where so short on power. I will take advice and listen to criticism, I've been really ill with cancer twice and realise that my Mrs home land is so much better. I've up to £11,000 to spend on the right vehicle. My bother says a discovery but we have a farm in Italy and defender will be better. Thanks
  11. I'm completing an abandoned project that has had new springs fitted, I think they are longer than standard to improve the ground clearance but the propshafts look standard. What is the unloaded length of standard coils (LR is a short WB 1992 year). Advice will be much appreciated.
  12. Can anyobne point me in the right direction please? I have a 50th anniversay defender 90. It has the factory fit 3.9L V8 engine and has aftermarket LPG. On LPG it drives brilliantly. When I switch over to petrol it really struggles. Its just had new lambda sensors and a MAF sensor fitted and ti much improved - however it still starts to stutter +++ at about 3000 revs when on petrol. Recently I broke down and was rescued by the AA (out of LPG gas and so using petrol at the time). It just wouldn't start. The very nice man from the AA got it going by spraying sure start into the air filter and I was able to get to a garage and get LPG again. He also pointed out there is a whining noise coming from the petrol tank and a bit of a slurping sound. So... is it the fuel pump perhaps? A blockage eg fuel filter? or some other thing? I think they have a fuel delivery unit as well as a pump dont they?? I have spent a lot with garages who cannot work out what wrong already and have replaced lots of bits sometimes without any real benefit at all. Plugging him into the garage computer shows no faults at all. I wonder if the symptoms are obvious to someone who knows these well? - He is absolutely fine on LPG - Quite a lot of black exhaust fumes when switching over to petrol - but much better since the new sensors were fitted. - Struggling to idle without cutting out - but better since new sensors were fitted - Old lambda sensors absolutely black with soot. - Once you get him going he's okay but struggles at about 3000 revs and becomes quite "blustery". - When driving he feels restricted if using petrol. If you switch over to LPG from petrol its like you let the handbrake off while driving and he's fine (til you run out of LPG!). - He only eer broke down after replacing all the sensors. Before that everything was really sluggish - now its not - but he cut out and would not start again. - After being left for about an hour (waiting for the AA) he started first go, but then cut out again and would not start at all until the man used some Holts Easy Start in the air filter. - There is a bit of a high pitched whining noise from the petrol tank which continues so long as its on petrol mode. It stops when you switch over to LPG. - There is a separate slurping sound from the petrol tank sometimes - like he's low on petrol perhaps - but he isn't. - When driving along on both petrol and LPG - the fuel gauge is a bit bouncy. Thanks for any help )
  13. Morning folks.. Hoping to do a few touch-ups here and there, and was wondering if anyone could have a stab at the shade of red my wagon is.. Thanks for any insight!
  14. Hi I'm new here so I'm sorry if this isn't the right place but I'm doing some repairs on my 1986 90 CSW and need to no what paint colour it is. I have been trying to look it up but have been struggling its a shade of white I'm just not sure what one so I was hoping somebody mite be able to help any ideas would be apriciated
  15. Good morning, I have just completed a 5 year (yes 5 year) body off resto. on my 1987 90 (19J engine). It took a bit longer than expected but got there! I am now rather keen (once bitten..still not shy!) on a 110 as it would suit my need a little better (family etc) and so I am asking a little advice on potential value as I don't have too much of a clue and don't want to fall into the classic trap of "well I put my heart and soul into so its worth £0000000000's". Details: 1987 2.5td hardtop: 155,000 on clock, body off full nut and bolt resto. Chassis: new rear cross member with extensions fully blasted, 3 plates on entire chassis needed so totally solid, primed and painted in KBX 3 part system. Body: newer rear tub fitted, undertub struts removed and entire thing stripped, straightened, etch primed, sealed underneath, side panels stripped etch primed, door bottoms replaced, stripped, etch primed, roof (smooth with sun roof from later 90) stripped, all joins sealed. new rear door (no spare wheel mount), all new hinges all round, all new stainless bolts all round, all glazing and body rubber is new as are all door seals, new front screen, full headlining, ply lined and insulated rear, bonnet from later model with soundproofing underneath, new bonnet release mechanism, new wiper mounts and blades and arms, new mirrors and arms, jackable sills, 3mm black chequer plate on wings and rear corners. Full respray in coach enamel tamar blue. Footwells replaced, battery box replaced. ALL panels joined with new fixings, isolated with either correct seals or sealant, D bar on front and new front bumper. ALL NEW headlight surrounds and grille, all fixing stainless steel Running Gear: ALL new dampers and coils, full polybush yellow kit, all new suspension bolt kit, new bumpstops, new coil retention plates, new axle and hub seals, front and rear output seals on transfer done, input and output shaft selas between gearbox and transfer box done, all fluids replaced and done 10 miles, new HD clutch, bearing and arm kit, shifter yoke replaced. Braking: New front calipers, ALL new piping throughout, new front discs and pads, new rear cylinders and shoes, new handbrake shoes and springs, new fluid. Engine: Full service and new filters and fluid, replaced front and rear crankshaft oil seals, new water pump, new starter motor, new crankshaft pulley, new timing kit, fully rebuilt heater (now hot in cab!!), new viscous unit, new fan, new belts throughout, ALL breathers raised and brought to a manifold ready for a raised air intake, runs as sweet as a nut so strongly suspect its had major work before I got it. Electrical: fuse boxes changed from glass to blade type, ALL new lights throughout (inc halogen main conversion from sealed), new headlamp bowls, ALL working like new (inc fog and reverse!!) Interior: SAMS trim seat reupholstered and new foam (2 seats) in black and PINK!! vinyl ( I know!!), mountney boss and 14" wheel (running nicely after lathing boss to fit properly)all new knobs, full headlining, rear ply and insulated. Wheels: 16" 8 spoke with 265 75 16 wildcat AT with decent tread. I also just before MOT's on Monday (19th Jan 14) replaced all fluids in boxes, engine, new filters (inc gearbox fliter) to make sure. If I have forgotten anything please ask, or if you have a 110 csw/110 crew cab you fancy doing a bit of trading with then let me know!! Advice and guidance much appreciated, Its my first ever project so I would imagine I should have done some things differently! I have included a couple of pics too! cheers Andy
  16. Hi guys, I have a bit of a problem with my Defender 90 TD5. At first the fuel pump was making it's loud noise, this was for like 2 days or so. On the third day after I parked up the car, it wouldn't start afterwards. When the key is in the ignition, the fuel pump makes it's noise. I thought it might be the filter, so I replaced it. However, it still won't start after having purged it a number of times. The fuel was running pretty low before it stopped working, so I've now added 5L, but that hasn't seemed to help either. Have you guys had this problem? Any way of telling what it might be? Thanks a lot for taking a look!
  17. Hi All, Simple question really, what is the consensus on a decent alarm to add to a 90 that already has a few more visible deterrents (clutch claw, steering bar etc.) and other bits and bobs? I am not really looking at more then the £300 mark tops and would rather have something that counts towards the insurance, so Thatcham class 1 I guess? A few people have suggested Toad (and the ai606 especially) with the optional tilt sensor but not a lot else. Does that seem like a good starting point or should I be looking elsewhere? Also heard that the Clifford ones do not suit our trucks all that well. As my truck was quite messed up after a recent attempt to steal it I am inclined to add anything extra that just makes stealing it more awkward (knowing that if they want it they will take it).
  18. Hello, We are asking for help, our 90 was stolen from outside our house this morning, We live in a village near Washington, Tyne and Wear. 1988 land rover 90 with 300tdi running gear. 3" lift, winch bumper and winch, steering guard, snorkel and 4 roof mounted rectangular spotlights. REG: E862 LPT. Green respray, white roof, save our countryside tyre cover. It has a dog guard and a gun rack. We've only had it for a month and are quite gutted! The police have been made aware and so if anyone sees it can you please contact us, or washington police. many thanks Helen
  19. i'm close to finishing the pref work, sanding every panel flat, filling holes etc etc...... the plan was to do the paint job myself but having never done it before i really dont want to ruin all my hard work + i would only be able to do the work using a roller rather than spary job, which is what i would prefer. anyone recommend someone who does a good job or any idea's on a rough cost to get it done, considering all painwork prepared? thanks
  20. My 1993 defender 90 200tdi was started in gear it jumped and then died. Does anybody know what could have happened? It bump starts fine. So im thinking it is something to do with the starter motor. Any help will be appreciated.
  21. Sorry if this has been asked before I'm after some advice on getting my defender 90 300tdi (97/98) insured. I've read quite a few forum posts but none are up to date. What are the best and cheapest ways to get myself insured? as a 20 year old. Van insurance/classic/standard. And with what companies are people finding cheapest for under 21. Thank in advance.
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