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Found 117 results

  1. Hey guys, I have 2000 Defender 90 TD5. It's the XS model so came with ABS. Over the last year it had developed the infamous 3 amigos. But they didn't all light at once. When you started up ABS and TC remained lit. Then upon using the brakes for the first time after starting, there was little to no braking power. It felt like the brakes were grinding. After letting off the brake and braking again they worked perfectly (without ABS) but the brake warning lamp came on and stayed on. I had the codes read with a Hawkeye Pro and it was throwing everything related to ABS. The mechanic suggested removing ABS entirely and replacing with non-ABS braking system. He specialises in Land Rovers had done it previously to another Defender. So now the jobs all done, braking is perfect, but the 3 lights are constantly illuminated. Reading the codes shows the following: "ECU ground or Reference ground fault" "Front Left sensor electrical failure" Clearing the codes gets rids of the sensor fault but ECU ground fault stays, and the 3 amigos never go out. Has anyone has any similar experiences or idea on where to start looking? I used a multi-meter to test the ground from ECU to -ve terminal and it was fine.
  2. Hi to All, I am in the process of rebuilding a 200tdi defender engine I recently purchased. After inspecting the cylinder head I noticed some marks next to the valves as shown in the pictures. Does anyone know what is this and what caused it? Do I ignore it or more attention is needed? Thanks in advance!!
  3. Hi Folks, Rebuilding dash on 1997 Defender 300 Tdi Trying to source some original screws/washers (4 of them) that hold the instrument panel (speedo/fuel/temp/clock) into the dash. Similarly, also looking for the set of 4 screws/washers that hold the metal plate plate behind the instrument panel. Have attached an image from the handbook and highlighted the screws that interested in, i.e. 8 screws in total. If you have the different types of washers too that'd be brill. Apologies if this seems odd. Trying to do a rebuild of the dash with original parts. Land Rover no longer have them. The screws will be black - Example image attached also. 4 x No8 5/8" 4 x No6 1/2" Many Thanks, Simon...
  4. Good evening everyone, I'm new to the world of the Defender having purchased my first one on Sunday. I know the heaters in these things are renowned for being woeful, however my heater control lever is jammed solid, with no movement whatsoever available. Has anyone encountered this before, and have any tips on how to free it? Many thanks in advance.
  5. I have always enjoyed driving the 300 TDI since 1997, i currently face problems when i drive over an hour and the engine is heated. Once i turn off the engine, my car can't be started anymore. There isn't even any cranking, relay or solenoid sound. Does anyone here face this similar problem? Would you please share your experience and suggest what's wrong with my car?
  6. 300Tdi Defender no horn

    1) Hi, my horn has stoped working. Horn works when supplied with 12v (purple/black) and 12v arrives at Fuse 10 fom the switch (purple/black). Supply lost somewhere between the horn switch/fuse 10 and the horn itself. I can't find the horn on the RAVE wiring diagram for this car but surprisingly the switch is shown on the Engine Immobilisation schematic. It feeds Fuse 10 then the alarm relay (R200). The horn is not shown. Any clues as to how the supply gets to the horn would be appreciated. 2. I have checked the alarm relay and it is fine but not as shown on the schematic. The schematic shows 87A connected to 87 internally, I do not believe this to be correct. I understood that if the relay has 87A it should be a changeover, normally made contact with 30 as the common. My relay doesn't have 87A but has 87B which is a double pole single throw relay with 30 as the common. I have had the vehicle for 14 years and never changed a relay and the horn worked until recently. Can anyone throw any light on this? 3) I checked the alarm function and it flashes the indicators but makes no sound. I do not have a sounder shown as D110 on the schematic but have a battery backed unit shown as D154. I assume this to be faulty. I did (long after having no horn, so unconnected) let the vehicle's battery go flat a few days ago and wondered how long it takes to charge the sounder battery. I not that the manual says it charges from the generator so presumably needs the ignition on to do so. I guess, if that is the case, it is to stop the vehicke battery being discharged by charging the sounder battery. Any info appreciated.
  7. ATTENTION: Land Rover 110 1984

    I have a 1984 110 and i wanted to know if i can fit the new defender doors with the up and down windows hopefully electrical ones. I just want to know if they fit and if they do which models are the right fit,
  8. Hi all, I have a Defender 91" 200tdi and recently the clutch pedal has started to feel soft and the biting point has dropped. On one occasion it was very hard to change gears. The clutch is about 2yrs old heavy duty ( last time it went it was the bearing/ pivot ball I think). Pedal has always been slightly soft for the first inch, but now is noticeable softer till about an inch or two off the bottom. No leaks or noticeable drop in fluid in the reservoir. I thought it might just need the pedal to be adjusted which I've done but still no luck. Any suggestions? Cheers, Ben
  9. Intercooler TD5

    My TD5 Defender 2000MY passed it's MOT with advisory of impending Intercooler failure. See picture. I bought it 4 years ago and been tidying it up all round and last year found turbo boost up to nearly 2bar. Reduced to around 1.5 max now. Is this a result of that over boosting?! Got a new one to fit now and looking at easiest way without removing coolant rad. Looking at previous I'm thinking of putting a tie wrap around the middle to support the lower frame?
  10. Faulty Stat?

    Hi guys Had a hose blow in the engine bay, chucked coolant everywhere. Replaced the section of hose and topped up the expansion vessel with coolant. Temp gauge still reading off the scale even though the engine block doesn't feel that hot. Is my first point of call the thermostat? Or something else? Thanks
  11. Hello everybody. This is my first post on this forum. First of all sorry for my English, it is not good =) We are a team based on Turkey. That name called "Land Rover Adventure Team Turkey". We have been touring for 10 years. This july we went to Iran but before we made a Turkey tour with many defenders after that 4 defenders went to Iran. We took 10550 km in 30 days. I upload some images. I Hope you will enjoy Next year we will be on East EuropeYou can follow us on Instagram (I hope giving a link is not a problem). I will post more about our tours festivals.https://www.instagram.com/landroveradventureturkiyeRegards,
  12. My RC Defender 90 :)

    Here's a few pics of my custom built D90 Landy. Hope you like. To see the build thread see this link... http://www.scalerc.co.uk/forum/forums-finest-builds/10372-bones-scx10-landrover-d90-build.html https://youtu.be/2HV4FX6JKn8 https://youtu.be/KnMF9lsc64o https://youtu.be/GgKrSRFsvLA
  13. PTO Winch help

    Hi Guys Cant find anything on this site or any others about this particular topic. Ive got a PTO winch on my 90 that is bolted on to the back of the transfer box, having never had one before it's all very mysterious to me. When stripping down the truck for a clutch change I stupidly took a bolt out of the bottom of the PTO box and got covered in oil that I wasn't expecting to be there! Question is does anyone know what oil I need to put back in there and how I go about doing it thanks in advance Farky
  14. Hi Everyone New to LR ownership but recently bought a 1987 90, with a 200 tdi and a few issues! Most pressing of these is the clutch, was getting hard to get into gear and then would not go into gear at all with engine running. Goes through gears fine with engine off. Clutch pedal very slack with almost no bite at all but no signs of leaking. After reading a lot on here I replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder and bled but that made no difference, so now decided that next step is probably to replace the clutch, or at least get in there to have a look. im a pretty amateur mechanic but having read the walk throughs feel alright about doing it myself. The issue I have is that I don't have an engine hoist or funds to buy one at the moment. My question is, how possible is it to do without one, and if it's very hard does anyone anywhere near oxford have one that they might consider lending/renting out for a weekend (hopefully won't take me longer than that)? Thanks Jake
  15. Well, after 3 years of sourcing, building and assembly...we've tested the rig enough to do a good beat down...here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAEs6Ojo77cLots of great tech from Hardline...so hope you like it...now: need some stickier/skinner big tires!
  16. Glass not level

    Hi all, This is my first post on here, was wondering if anyone could offers some advice. I have changed the winding mechanism, and the glass channel on my 89 plate defender. But have developed a bit of a problem. Ever since doing so, the glass doesn't seem to raise perpendicular with the frame. At the fully elevated position, the rear end of the glass is up as far as it will go whilst the front has about a cm gap before even touching the channel. Does anyone have any ideas on how to adjust this ? Regards KMW
  17. I'm have a bit of trouble with my trusty old Defender TD5 from 2000 The trouble started last week when it suddenly wouldn't start. All I got was no cranking over and rapid ticking from the starter. It have acted like that once before - which turned out to be a bad earth connection on the starter, so that was the first thing I checked. I also checked and cleaned all the other connection while under there. It turned out to be a dead battery instead. Easy fix. Then after I couple of days it wouldn't start again. But this time it cranks over like it should, but now I have no yellow glow plug or engine light when turning the key. The purring from the pump in the back is obviously also gone too. Here is what I have done so far which turned out fine (or at least I think so): Checked and cleaned the earth points underneath and under the seat (ECU) Checked all the relays for corrosion Checked all the fuses for corrosion Checked the ECU for oil (There was a tiny hint of oil, but I doubt thats the sinner) Checked the fuelpump by bypassing the relay It can't be the immobiliser as it doesn't have one. Battery, it's brand new. The temperature gauge moves a bit when I turn the key, but the goes straight back down to blue (C) again. If I remove the 30A Main Relay fuses under the seat and turn the key the temperature gauge goes into red (H) when the key is turned. I must have read everything there is on this topic, but still stuck so I would appreciate any pointers. I have attached a few images of the relays and ECU if thats any help. Thanks Jens
  18. Oil Service Warning

    Hello, I have a 2014 Defender 90 Hard Top E. I live in a part of Spain that is a long distance from an authorized service garage, so I had a local mechanic do the yearly oil change. I have every reason to believe that they really did perform the oil change (i.e. they showed me the box of oil containers they ordered specifically for me and then after showed me the empties on the floor which I asked to see) however, whenever I start the Defender the "OIL SERVICE" warning appears on the console momentarily. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this and/or what needs to be done to rectify it? I'm also concerned because I read somewhere in the manual that the warranty is void if the oil service is not performed on schedule. Any assistance would be appreciated. -David
  19. Hi all, I run a 300 TDI 110 CSW 1996 and I wonder if anyone has had a similar problem to this one. I have purchased the Bosch relay (0986335058) to provide an adjustable delay on the intermittent wipe for the front screen. It's a direct plug-in for the existing relay behind the fuse board in the cab and it's something I've known about for a long time and finally I bought one. It's a £40 upgrade so not cheap. It's a straight plug in, nothing else. However I can't get it to work. I can't set the interval and it will do multiple wipes - like two , three or even four. If I replace the old one I get the standard two / three seconds so I don't suspect there's a wiring fault. The supplier very willingly sent a replacement but this behaves in exactly the same way, so it can't be the relay. I have a healthy battery etc (I have a Fluke voltmeter so I know that battery volts are OK). At least 12.4v with no engine and up at 14.1 / 14.2 when charging. I'm beginning to suspect that there must be lower volts at the relay base (than at the battery terminals) and that this might affect the delay circuit (electronics) in the new relay. I hope to get chance to have a poke about with a voltmeter on the relay pins tomorrow. However I just wondered if anyone has any ideas or experience of this? Thank you
  20. Hi all, I'm having a few issues with the 130 aircon, it's a 2004 130 TD5 defender with the under dash AC unit. Currently I can not get it working, I've checked the obvious stuff like fuses and wiring. I'v connected diagnostics and could engage the compressor clutch from the relay, but not via the AC switch. It has gas so it should not be the pressure switch. I tested both switches and they are working fine. It has lost its lowest fan speed which made me think it was a fan resistor and I (with great difficulty) removed the resistor unit and tested both resistor coils and bother were good, I went to plug it back in and it only has three wires running to it, so one resistor coil does nothing? Is this standard? Maybe i'm completely wrong. I have had a look through the forums and can't find anyone who has had a similar issue and want to get it sorted before a trip planned in August. Thanks in advance for any help. cheers Mick
  21. Hello, before i ask my question i have to say i am a novice when it comes to mechanics but i have some common sense, so please forgive me for sounding odd in this topic. I am here on before of my dad who owns a "2008 Land Rover Defender 110 LWB 2.4TDCi Hard Top". recently he has been having a starter motor issue, essentially it is knackered and we need a replacement (hitting it with a hammer has stopped working). How ever when we were looking at it under the hood it does not look easy to get to, there are way to many pipes and wires in the way. So my question is, Does anyone know if there is a way of taking it out without having to unhook half the engine? or is it relatively safe to unhitch most of pipes that are attached with pipe fasteners that are in the way ? a friend of ours who is a mechanic on lorries said that if he could get down there he did not think there was enough space to pull it out because its right next to an engine mount, BUT i guess with some clever suggestive fiddling it will come loose ? I have looked online for other defenders and they seemed pretty simple but there were hardly any pipes in the way and there seems to be a lot of space around the starter motor where as with ours it does not seem that way. Anyway enough rambling, thank you for reading my post and i hope some of you guys have some enlightening input. Sorry again for the novice questioning. Adam P.S here are some images i uploaded to imgur as i could not upload on here : imgur.com/a/mafbt
  22. OK, maybe not an ideal subject among all you hardened Laners, but I would just love to find a way to fit electric adjustable mirrors to my '95 300 TDi. At my age, 70, I find I really miss the simplicity of using internal joy-sticks to vary the mirror angles as required while driving in perfect safety, which my wife's car had. I've been eyeing up various vans as possible doners, but can't decide which would give the best result. (I've no problem with making up some glassfibre cover between the existing hinge(s) and the 'new' Mirror(s)). Surely, somebody has carried out this conversion and I would love to hear how it went. Anybody?
  23. TD5 R380 to a 4.6 V8

    I haven't found the info i need between thousand of read pages.. so i just though of posting this here. any help would be greatly aprecciated. so i just got lucky, and a friend was tossing his td5 r380 gearbox, which obviously i wasnt going to let that happen. So i had an old lt77 suffix E which has some synchro problems. Is the input shaft from the lt77 interchangeable with the r380 one? i know the td5 r380 input shaft measures 22mm ish diameter and a bout 350 mm ish long, (measured from the front face of the 4th gear pinion) I have acces to a lathe and can modify the input shaft if needed. What are the exact measures im looking for?? what about the bell housing? could i use the lt77 one?
  24. Stumped - Knocking 300tdi

    Hi Guys, I'm stumped...my 1998 Defender 300tdi (422 000km clocked) is making a loud knocking sound. I have listened with a DIY stethoscope and can't seem to pin point it's origin. From inside the cab it sounds like drivers side. I have checked the vacuum pump...not that. Lift pump fine...pumping fuel. Head gasket was changed about to years ago. Checked for leak behind block ...cylinder no4...nothing. All clean. Not using water but is using oil...burning a little blue when idling at robots and slow traffic. Been meaning to replace stem seals. Leaking oil around sump area Recently did oil change, fuel/air filter, tappets and timing...was running smoothly and quietly. ( as Landy's go) for a couple of days. Then back to square one. The Annoying knock seems to occur when accelerating. Not all the time but mostly. There's no power loss at all. Done all the basic checks..so where do I go from here... Before you say engine overhaul (im cash strapped and cannot afford that now) but what can I check to narrow it down and get to the bottom of this. Thanks Guys
  25. Hi, Just bought a new Defender 90 and absolutely love it. The only problem I have are the brakes... Does have or know about the brakes developed by Bowler and Alcon and are they any good? Cheers