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  1. Hi, My TD5 defender has failed its MOT because of a “tiny” hole in the bulkhead but I am told it can’t be welded and I need a new bulkhead. 😞 Have heard of all sorts of scare stories but maybe today’s fitters expect to be able to swap out identical parts without the coach building like fitting techniques required to build a defender. Anyway there seam to be 2 options .. shielder (but if a bashing on here) and terrain tech. Can anyone say which one today might be easier to fit ? Is there a better manufactured bulkhead and if so by who ?. If anyone knows of someone good near Glasgow who they can recommend for a bulkhead replacement then please let me know. Thanks
  2. Oddly enough on my 200tdi i’ve got a 300tdi Bulkhead which uses a different metal dash support. (the metal frame underneath the dash)(200tdi has tabs inline with the vehicle whilst 300s bolt parallel to the bulkhead) . i’ve attempted bending and modifying it to fit it but with no success. i believe i found the part on lr workshop however can’t find the part for sale anywhere new or used. Could anyone help me source this part.
  3. Hi guys, I hope you are all doing well during these challenging days. I am new to this forum, but have been a rover enthusiast for ages. My current rover is a 1989 range rover converted to a 200tdi. I have gone through an exhaustive process of tuning the FIP noting every change and recording the resulting data, both qualitative and quantitative. I would like to post my method soon, when I have a little bit of time, because maybe it will be useful to those who need to start over without any reference to the factory settings. My FIP was not original, as it was obviously from a 300Tdi with provisions for the EGR fitment. The anti-tamper collar and plug were previously removed and the diaphragm had already been adjusted and it was a bit of a dog. Anyway, I worked through a process to tune the FIP from scratch, based on the fundamentals of each adjustment and it seems to be running powerfully and efficiently without any smoke issues. If there is interest I will post my method. As to my question of EGTs, it is well documented that ~730 C is a hard maximum for sustained temperatures in the 200/300Tdi, with some scattered anecdotes of people running much higher. The main factor for this limit is usually linked to damage to turbine vanes. My question is, does anyone have reliable knowledge about the safe limits of the other engine components, such as the head and pistons? I have an aftermarket Billet Hybrid Turbo Turbocharger CHRA, from Turbo Rebuild Ltd, for which they recommend a maximum safe limit of 850 C (1562 F) and I am wondering how much I can safely, if at all, push the rest of the engine beyond 730 C. Currently, my engine is pulling hard up to ~4000 RPM at 16 PSI of boost, but the EGTs rise quickly during hard acceleration and will easily exceed 1400 C on a steep incline . I know I can get a few more PSI out of the turbo (maximum recommended 22 PSI) which will reduce EGTs, but right now I am unwilling to go beyond 18 or 19 PSI, as I do not know the history of the engine or the condition of the head gasket. At the moment I can easily moderate the temps with my foot, and keep it between 1200 and 1350 when pushing it hard on the highway, especially while overtaking vehicles or climbing hills. I like having the extra power when I need it, but I also want to be able to keep my eyes on the road during those times rather than down on my poorly located gauge. I plan on refining the FIP settings to get the temps down a little more, but I hope to keep the level of performance where it currently is. Thanks!
  4. On my 200tdi i’ve been searching for the correct indicator cancel ring that attaches to my wheel. i have a classic 4spoke defender wheel. any idea on what the cancel ring is and where i can buy one. i’ve bought one before but it doesn’t even fit on my steering column. please help :/
  5. Anyone dealt with brake failure on a 2015 defender? Saw that there was a recall of some of them in Australia.
  6. Hi Hello I am new to this forum. Apologies if I am duplicating a thread. I did a search but could not find an answer. My 2003 defender has all round LED lights. I live in the countryside and it gets very dark because there no street lighting. The standard headlights are like candles and therefore useless. The LED lights are really good you can be seen and you can see things running into the road. Problem is the MOT inspector said he could not pass it unless I put the old ones back in. He did not explain the actual problem it is just the rules! So I am in a ludicrous situation where I need to swap headlights for inferior ones to get it through a test which is apparently there to make sure the car is safe. Problem is until I put the LED ones back in I can’t see where I am going. Given the number of after market LED lights available I assume this has been overcome by some. Anyone know what is going on and if you can put LED lights in a defender without falling foul of the bureaucracy that seems to be contradicting itself. I have found some that say they are ok for MOT but are not CE - which mine are. Thanks for you help
  7. I’m in the shake down stages of a rebuild and rechassis of a 1985 Ninety. It now has a 300tdi and an auto box from a 1996 Disco. All new servo, master cylinder, brake lines, calipers, discs, and pads fitted. The system bleed was straightforward and the brakes work perfectly at startup. However after 30 minutes or so of leisurely driving on farm tracks with minimal use of the brakes, all 4 discs start to bind and the brake pedal becomes solid. To the point where it will not even coast. Leave it to cool off and all returns to normal again. Is this a known issue? Thoughts / comments welcome.
  8. 110 Defender 2014 2.2Tdci Puma (LHD) Wipers wouldn't turn off in any position (once switched on), so I went out an bought a Bosch programmable relay (model number: 0986335058) and fitted it as per : Unfortunately made it worse, wipers wouldn't self park when put in park position (off) they'd just halt where they were when I put it in park, so I'd need to time it right and have the wiper near the bottom of the screen. Also, when I put on intermittent, it would carry on wiping (like position 1). So I thought it must be the wiper park switch. The below details how to do this on a TD5 (I think?) : I couldn't find anything detailing how to do this on a Puma 2.2Tdci so I had to resort to the Haynes (which was very good). For anyone else working on an LHD model, everything is flipped, the wiper motor is on the passenger side, and to make matters worse the wiper motor is itself flipped, so the park switch is now against the bulkhead. So you'll most likely have to take the entire wiper motor out. I would highly recommend taking lots of photo's of all connections before unplugging (helped me a load when getting it all back together). Fiddly job to put back, but again unfortunately made no difference - same problem as before (wipers wouldn't self park, and intermittent just acted as position 1). So now I'm at a bit of a loss as to what could be the problem, any ideas? I think it could be a faulty relay again (perhaps the Bosch programmable was not designed for this model?).
  9. Good evening everyone, I'm new to the world of the Defender having purchased my first one on Sunday. I know the heaters in these things are renowned for being woeful, however my heater control lever is jammed solid, with no movement whatsoever available. Has anyone encountered this before, and have any tips on how to free it? Many thanks in advance.
  10. I am hoping to pick the brains of you defender wiring gurus out there. I have a 1991 110 that has been converted from 200TDI to 300 TDI, and am replacing the wiring looms when i come across this brown with red tracer wire from the main loom into the engine bay. Can anyone tell me what its for please? I have studied the wiring diagrams and cant seem to find said wire anywhere .
  11. Hi , I'm trying to find the nylon insert that fits in a square hole in the dash pinnacle ( and breaks it ) that the Hot and Cold/ Windscreen or Footwell controls cover fixes to ? Thanks Angus
  12. Hello All Brief Introduction - I was stationed in the UK from 2015-2019 and while there picked up my dream car. A USA importable defender 110. I love these cars as they don’t punish you (too badly) when working on them if you make a mistake. Needless to say ownerships has been everything I wanted and more. Now the bad part: Getting things fixed on these things is incredibly expensive unless you do it yourself. I know I know Captain Obvious right? So the Problem I am having is ATF is seeping down the front of my transfer case - its not the LT230 oil - its red and it tastes different. The transmission is a rebuilt Ashcroft with less than a 1000km on it so I am pretty sure the gearing and seals on the transmission are ok as for the T-Box I cant speak to that. I have combed the tech archive and haven’t found anything about this problem - then again I may not know exactly what I am looking for either. Any help you all can give will be much appreciated Thanks Again Santino
  13. Hi Fittingc a 200 tdi defender turbo to my 1988 90 , its got a discovery 200 tdi engine convertion, and want to fit the correct defender turbo. I have the turbo and exhaust and inlet manifold , but it looks like I need to move the altenator and power steering pump some ??. Has any one got image of the correct brackets etc I need to look for. Thanks Nick
  14. Hi all, My mates 2004 td5 defender has had a major electrical failure. His dipbeam, rear demister, dials/speedo etc, electric windows and air con have all suddenly died. We have checked fuses and relays and they are all good. Does anyone know if these are connected or what I could check next? Thanks for all your advice!
  15. I need some help. I have a pre-02 rear door on my Td5. I want to upgrade it to have heated rear glass and wash wipe. It doesn’t have a precut hole for the wiper so I’m looking for a template or exact measurements please
  16. With JVC having launched a mech-less double din head unit and the reviews being quite good, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and see if we couldn't make it fit into the 90.... Pull the dash apart to reveal dust from various parts of Europe.... Then set to some hacking.... The insert section was always a poor fit, so I decided to use some clear Gorilla Glue I had in the cupboard to bond it in... One edge sat proud so clamped overnight.... Some filling and hacking later..... I decided to fill the recess to sit the unit on the surface of the dash, mainly because I couldn't figure out how to make a recessed landing point to match the original.... The insert was still quite proud so that needed leveling with the DA sander. Quite a few fills and hacks later, using my favorite tool..... Time to key the paint and get a cover of colour back onto the panel... Problem..... Gorilla Glue reacted with the paint.... So.. Leave it all to dry, hack out the bad stuff and decide the only course of action is to fill the gap with the bad glue... While that was drying, a few wires to sort in the truck and a quick test run.... Then back in for some more sanding..... And a little while later after general 1000 grit smoothing... More paint... It's not perfect, but a few more coats on from this picture most of the little pits have been filled and it's looking ok. I plan to leave it to cure for a few days now and get the compressed air into the dash area, clean out some dust and add more lightness....
  17. Hi, I’m Wanting to get into the off-roading scene but don’t know what to do. I know that I want a defender but don’t know which model, I’d prefer it to be a Diesel engine and would be putting money into it to modify suspension and other things.(could do with help on that aswell😂) I want something that I can drive nice and smooth on the road as a daily but be able to go anywhere anytime I want all whilst still having enough space for one or more passengers(seats in the back) Any information/ help I get would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  18. Hi Folks, Had to remove the heater duct from my 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi to help route some cables over the wheel arch. That's another story for another thread. Looking to put back on now but have a few questions. Couple of images below to help. 1. Noticed that there is a rubber gasket/seal that goes around the inside of the flange end of the white spacer tube (Part 11). The rubber seal does not seem to be listed as a separate part. It has gone brittle on little pieces have come off. Can this part be sourced? 2. The spacer tube can move freely back and forth between the heater intake duct (Part 14) and the seal to the blower heater (Part 12). Is the intention that the space tuber is simply left pushed towards the heater and its seal. Many Thanks, Simon...
  19. Hi there, New to this forum so be gentle! I’m looking for some advice about my 04 Defender 90 Td5 - I get a metallic scraping scratching noise at about 30mph when I’m setting off - seems to be coming from left hand side fwd wheel but can’t place any closer than that! I’ve checked for rubbing on the wheel, and had a root around behind it but have yet to see any cause. My next thought is whether the wheel bearing is worn which I’m going to check this weekend when I’ve got time (hopefully!) but was wondering if anyone out there has had a similar problem or knows what else it could be? Thanks!
  20. Hi, I've recently been driving a new (2010) 130 which is lovely compared to my rattly One Ten but the brakes are odd and I'm looking for advice. The servo works fine and it brakes really well with a firm pedal (not as firm as mine but I have just replaced the brake system very recently except servo and pump) but if you brake to a stop and keep your foot pressing on the pedal, it slowly drops all the way to the floor. It is slow and not a sudden drop but it does sink all the way. Both their same aged vehicles do exactly the same. Their garage have checked it over, checked for leaks, checked brake fluid and checked the master cylinder for leaks (not sure how they did that) and then asked one of their "Ford time serviced mechanics" who said that its a transit engine and components, and that transits do exactly the same and release brake pressure after stopping and "they all do that". As anyone who has seen my previous posts on this forum knows, I'm no expert but this doesn't make sense to me.
  21. How far should the clutch pushrod protrude from the bellhousing/ slave cylinder joint face if all is well with clutch plate, release bearing and fork is the question, here's the history... 1986 ex MOD 90 FFR (FFS!) 12Jnad, I recently (about 1000 km) replaced the clutch, release bearing, master and slave cylinders, mostly with the mid-price 'OE suppliers' parts from Rimmer bros. Clutch felt/worked fine on re-assembly, if with a little more freeplay than I expected. It failed today, freeplay progressivly increasing until it wouldn't dis-engage, pedal to the floor. I have found no leaks in either the master or slave or the line, clutch fluid at reasonable level although black, which leads me to suspect seals in the master. However, on taking off the slave and pumping the clutch the slave piston moves seemingly normally. The clutch pushrod seems to be still attached to the fork and protrudes from the slave mating surface by about 12mm (half an inch in LR speak!). I'd like to know if that is normal, so allowing me to concentrate on the hydraulics, rather than diving into the clutch, not my favourite way of spending a saturday night. This is my first post on here so big thanks in advance for any help you can give me, the Landie is my only form of transport up here in the Sabine hills north of Rome, I get to go 'off road' every day, just to get the milk, and beer, so this is urgent...!🍻
  22. I have located the following online https://www.landroverworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2007/C0073 Where do these cables run from the harness back to the battery box? I assume they are the ones coming in the centre of the vehicle side?
  23. Can anyone tell me the part number of the retaining sleeve circled in red? They come in plastic or metal. Thanks
  24. I have new rock sisters from bearmach and cannot see how they are supposed to fit to the 110. anyone got any tips?
  25. I need to access and inspect the diff lock lever as it keeps popping out. Ive seen some people mention the best way is to remove the internal transmission tunnel and get to it from the top. Anyone got any photos or hints on how to do this in a 09 defender?
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