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Found 105 results

  1. Here's a few pics of my custom built D90 Landy. Hope you like. To see the build thread see this link...
  2. Well, after 3 years of sourcing, building and assembly...we've tested the rig enough to do a good beat's the video: of great tech from hope you like need some stickier/skinner big tires!
  3. Hi all, This is my first post on here, was wondering if anyone could offers some advice. I have changed the winding mechanism, and the glass channel on my 89 plate defender. But have developed a bit of a problem. Ever since doing so, the glass doesn't seem to raise perpendicular with the frame. At the fully elevated position, the rear end of the glass is up as far as it will go whilst the front has about a cm gap before even touching the channel. Does anyone have any ideas on how to adjust this ? Regards KMW
  4. Hi Everyone New to LR ownership but recently bought a 1987 90, with a 200 tdi and a few issues! Most pressing of these is the clutch, was getting hard to get into gear and then would not go into gear at all with engine running. Goes through gears fine with engine off. Clutch pedal very slack with almost no bite at all but no signs of leaking. After reading a lot on here I replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder and bled but that made no difference, so now decided that next step is probably to replace the clutch, or at least get in there to have a look. im a pretty amateur mechanic but having read the walk throughs feel alright about doing it myself. The issue I have is that I don't have an engine hoist or funds to buy one at the moment. My question is, how possible is it to do without one, and if it's very hard does anyone anywhere near oxford have one that they might consider lending/renting out for a weekend (hopefully won't take me longer than that)? Thanks Jake
  5. I'm have a bit of trouble with my trusty old Defender TD5 from 2000 The trouble started last week when it suddenly wouldn't start. All I got was no cranking over and rapid ticking from the starter. It have acted like that once before - which turned out to be a bad earth connection on the starter, so that was the first thing I checked. I also checked and cleaned all the other connection while under there. It turned out to be a dead battery instead. Easy fix. Then after I couple of days it wouldn't start again. But this time it cranks over like it should, but now I have no yellow glow plug or engine light when turning the key. The purring from the pump in the back is obviously also gone too. Here is what I have done so far which turned out fine (or at least I think so): Checked and cleaned the earth points underneath and under the seat (ECU) Checked all the relays for corrosion Checked all the fuses for corrosion Checked the ECU for oil (There was a tiny hint of oil, but I doubt thats the sinner) Checked the fuelpump by bypassing the relay It can't be the immobiliser as it doesn't have one. Battery, it's brand new. The temperature gauge moves a bit when I turn the key, but the goes straight back down to blue (C) again. If I remove the 30A Main Relay fuses under the seat and turn the key the temperature gauge goes into red (H) when the key is turned. I must have read everything there is on this topic, but still stuck so I would appreciate any pointers. I have attached a few images of the relays and ECU if thats any help. Thanks Jens
  6. Hello, I have a 2014 Defender 90 Hard Top E. I live in a part of Spain that is a long distance from an authorized service garage, so I had a local mechanic do the yearly oil change. I have every reason to believe that they really did perform the oil change (i.e. they showed me the box of oil containers they ordered specifically for me and then after showed me the empties on the floor which I asked to see) however, whenever I start the Defender the "OIL SERVICE" warning appears on the console momentarily. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this and/or what needs to be done to rectify it? I'm also concerned because I read somewhere in the manual that the warranty is void if the oil service is not performed on schedule. Any assistance would be appreciated. -David
  7. Hi all, I run a 300 TDI 110 CSW 1996 and I wonder if anyone has had a similar problem to this one. I have purchased the Bosch relay (0986335058) to provide an adjustable delay on the intermittent wipe for the front screen. It's a direct plug-in for the existing relay behind the fuse board in the cab and it's something I've known about for a long time and finally I bought one. It's a £40 upgrade so not cheap. It's a straight plug in, nothing else. However I can't get it to work. I can't set the interval and it will do multiple wipes - like two , three or even four. If I replace the old one I get the standard two / three seconds so I don't suspect there's a wiring fault. The supplier very willingly sent a replacement but this behaves in exactly the same way, so it can't be the relay. I have a healthy battery etc (I have a Fluke voltmeter so I know that battery volts are OK). At least 12.4v with no engine and up at 14.1 / 14.2 when charging. I'm beginning to suspect that there must be lower volts at the relay base (than at the battery terminals) and that this might affect the delay circuit (electronics) in the new relay. I hope to get chance to have a poke about with a voltmeter on the relay pins tomorrow. However I just wondered if anyone has any ideas or experience of this? Thank you
  8. Hi all, I'm having a few issues with the 130 aircon, it's a 2004 130 TD5 defender with the under dash AC unit. Currently I can not get it working, I've checked the obvious stuff like fuses and wiring. I'v connected diagnostics and could engage the compressor clutch from the relay, but not via the AC switch. It has gas so it should not be the pressure switch. I tested both switches and they are working fine. It has lost its lowest fan speed which made me think it was a fan resistor and I (with great difficulty) removed the resistor unit and tested both resistor coils and bother were good, I went to plug it back in and it only has three wires running to it, so one resistor coil does nothing? Is this standard? Maybe i'm completely wrong. I have had a look through the forums and can't find anyone who has had a similar issue and want to get it sorted before a trip planned in August. Thanks in advance for any help. cheers Mick
  9. Hello, before i ask my question i have to say i am a novice when it comes to mechanics but i have some common sense, so please forgive me for sounding odd in this topic. I am here on before of my dad who owns a "2008 Land Rover Defender 110 LWB 2.4TDCi Hard Top". recently he has been having a starter motor issue, essentially it is knackered and we need a replacement (hitting it with a hammer has stopped working). How ever when we were looking at it under the hood it does not look easy to get to, there are way to many pipes and wires in the way. So my question is, Does anyone know if there is a way of taking it out without having to unhook half the engine? or is it relatively safe to unhitch most of pipes that are attached with pipe fasteners that are in the way ? a friend of ours who is a mechanic on lorries said that if he could get down there he did not think there was enough space to pull it out because its right next to an engine mount, BUT i guess with some clever suggestive fiddling it will come loose ? I have looked online for other defenders and they seemed pretty simple but there were hardly any pipes in the way and there seems to be a lot of space around the starter motor where as with ours it does not seem that way. Anyway enough rambling, thank you for reading my post and i hope some of you guys have some enlightening input. Sorry again for the novice questioning. Adam P.S here are some images i uploaded to imgur as i could not upload on here :
  10. OK, maybe not an ideal subject among all you hardened Laners, but I would just love to find a way to fit electric adjustable mirrors to my '95 300 TDi. At my age, 70, I find I really miss the simplicity of using internal joy-sticks to vary the mirror angles as required while driving in perfect safety, which my wife's car had. I've been eyeing up various vans as possible doners, but can't decide which would give the best result. (I've no problem with making up some glassfibre cover between the existing hinge(s) and the 'new' Mirror(s)). Surely, somebody has carried out this conversion and I would love to hear how it went. Anybody?
  11. I haven't found the info i need between thousand of read pages.. so i just though of posting this here. any help would be greatly aprecciated. so i just got lucky, and a friend was tossing his td5 r380 gearbox, which obviously i wasnt going to let that happen. So i had an old lt77 suffix E which has some synchro problems. Is the input shaft from the lt77 interchangeable with the r380 one? i know the td5 r380 input shaft measures 22mm ish diameter and a bout 350 mm ish long, (measured from the front face of the 4th gear pinion) I have acces to a lathe and can modify the input shaft if needed. What are the exact measures im looking for?? what about the bell housing? could i use the lt77 one?
  12. Hi Guys, I'm 1998 Defender 300tdi (422 000km clocked) is making a loud knocking sound. I have listened with a DIY stethoscope and can't seem to pin point it's origin. From inside the cab it sounds like drivers side. I have checked the vacuum pump...not that. Lift pump fine...pumping fuel. Head gasket was changed about to years ago. Checked for leak behind block ...cylinder no4...nothing. All clean. Not using water but is using oil...burning a little blue when idling at robots and slow traffic. Been meaning to replace stem seals. Leaking oil around sump area Recently did oil change, fuel/air filter, tappets and timing...was running smoothly and quietly. ( as Landy's go) for a couple of days. Then back to square one. The Annoying knock seems to occur when accelerating. Not all the time but mostly. There's no power loss at all. Done all the basic where do I go from here... Before you say engine overhaul (im cash strapped and cannot afford that now) but what can I check to narrow it down and get to the bottom of this. Thanks Guys
  13. Hi, Just bought a new Defender 90 and absolutely love it. The only problem I have are the brakes... Does have or know about the brakes developed by Bowler and Alcon and are they any good? Cheers
  14. A cautionary tale that might help others as well as a chance for those more experienced to chortle at a schoolboy error. Having finished the complete rebuild of my 200tdi last weekend the fateful moment came when you can't put off turning the key and seeing if all that hard work (and expense) has worked out. Key was turned and after not too much churning it started the oil pressure light went out smartly and everything sounded good. Whilst it warmed up I was feeling pretty smug until one of the kids asked where that large and growing puddle of oil was coming from. It was coming from the front wading plug hole in the timing cover and it clearly wasn't going to stop. Long story shortened the source of the leak was the bolt in the centre of the timing belt adjuster. I had fitted the gasket that effectively seals the thread of the adjuster securing bolt off from the oil coming from the nose of the camshaft that runs down the front of the block and back into the sump to the wrong hole. In my defense the manual seems to show the gasket going on the top hole and the you tube video I watched definitely shows it going on the top one . Obviously I should have checked by offering up the timing cover chest when I was building the engine and seen that in my case the bolt was going through the bottom hole but to be honest I didn't get the significance of the gasket. After sulking for a while I pulled the front of the engine apart changed the gasket along with all the others and the engine is now leak free as well as sounding good. Am I the first numpty to make this mistake I wonder?
  15. Hi all, I have a small, rusted hole in the bulkhead, just to the inside of one of the bonnet hinges. I was going to weld it initially, but I can no longer get hold of a mig, so I'm coming up with alternative suggestions... I'm currently looking at Evo-Stik's hard & fast metal epoxy putty, and my plan is to strip all the paint and rusty metal off, apply an anti-rust solution (any recommendations?), allow that to dry, then fill the entire hole with the epoxy putty (and thereby hopefully prevent it from coming away at the edges). Conveniently enough, my 90 matches smooth white Hammerite perfectly, so I was then going to paint over the putty with Hammerite. If it doesn't work out, I'll just have to get it welded in the future, but can anyone see any problems with my current plan? I'd appreciate any advice you can give me! Cheers, Will P.S. I also have a reasonably large dent in one of the wheel arches. Any tips on getting dents out?
  16. Hi guys I've just joined as thinking of my first defender, had a couple range rovers. Question, I know the answer is over loaded but have no choice. I've got a 4.3 ton chevy which is coming to Italy on the back of a trailer, as I said I know I'm gonna be to,d it's over weight. I'm think of a 90 to do the job as it with be kept and upgraded when in Italy, will a remap help towing this wait as didn't realise that land rover where so short on power. I will take advice and listen to criticism, I've been really ill with cancer twice and realise that my Mrs home land is so much better. I've up to £11,000 to spend on the right vehicle. My bother says a discovery but we have a farm in Italy and defender will be better. Thanks
  17. I seem to have a fairly serious oil leak centered around the transfercase and looking at the oil spray pattern (see picture) it seems to be coming from the front output shaft. I am just beginning this Defender DIY ownership journey so I could use any advice i can get! I would love to not have to pay the $100 an hour for my mechanic, but I also dont have much experience with vehicle repairs.
  18. I'm rebuilding a Defender 200tdi bought as an unfinished project. I can't see what holds the speedo cable into the drive fitting on the transfer box. The square cable end goes into the hollow square drive OK, but there's nothing to hold it in. Should there be some sort of a clip to hold the flange on the cable outer to the gearbox? Any ideas please. John
  19. So when I plug in my diagnostic tool to the 2.4 puma I get no fault codes but lots of other data from just about everything. My question is, where would I find a list of acceptable parameters? I see all this data but have no idea if anything is off as I don't know what the figures should be, or within range of.. I only want to know as she is running a bit rough and with no fault codes I want to check everything else is about right.
  20. I have a 1999 TD5 defender with a pump problem. When the ignition is turned on, the fuel pump relay does not energise. Then I manually close the fuel pump relay the pump starts. So the fuel pumps works correctly. I get 12v on pin 86 of the relay when the ignition is on. (between chassis and pin contact and between pins 85 and 86). I have checked continuity between the relay pin 85 and the ECU connector, the blue and purple wire. The main relay and inertia switch are ok. If I short out the relay to start the pump the engine still won't start. Am I looking at a new ECU or can there be another problem.
  21. Hi All, Was looking for some advice... I recently took a gamble and purchased a cheap 4.6L V8 petrol engine which I believe came from a P38 Rangey. The question is will it go in my 1990 defender 90 and how much modification will be required. I also have no idea about gearboxes etc. My defender currently has a LT77 gearbox with a 200tdi disco engine in but im also concerned about propshaft sizes whether a standard one will fit or not. I basically need an exact list of all the items I need. Another obstacle I have is I have no idea if the engine actually runs or not and as I don't own/work in a garge I am not sure how I can find this out. As you can probably tell im a bit of a novice at this but there is only one way to learn! Any ideas/advice given would be greatly appreciated.
  22. Evening, I have a problem with the central locking on one of the doors on my defender td5 110. Everything seems to work, it clunks, and everything works except for the offside midrow door where the knob goes down but the door doesn't actually lock... I'm not familiar enough with the mechanism to know how it works, anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
  23. Hi Folks, Anybody know of any breakers yards that would be good for sourcing Defender dash trims, side trims, etc... near Bristol. Thanks, Simon...
  24. Hi all, My Defender 110 TD5 has been a bit sluggish for a while, and the posts on this forum and others have been extremely helpful in narrowing down the cause - but as there are quite a few posts on TD5s lacking power, I thought it might be helpful to others to see one with closure and the issue resolved - but also to draw attention to a potentially serious issue which could have resulted in quite serious engine damage had I not discovered it when I did. So I went through all the usual things, checked fuel pressure, checked boost pressure, checked the waste gate was properly adjusted, cleaned out the intercooler, cleaned the MAP sensor which was really badly clogged and fitted an EGR bypass kit. Changed the MAF sensor, checked for oil in the red plug, changed air and fuel filters, changed the accelerator pedal for a second-hand unit, fixed the low ratio sensor in the transfer box (which was permanently telling the ECU it was in low ratio so the throttle response was poor). I also fitted a straight-through pipe to replace the centre exhaust box, although this wasn't really related to fixing the issue, just because it was given to me by a friend whose wife wouldn't let him keep it... All of the above made small incremental improvements, but none actually seemed to get to the bottom of the issue entirely. Then came the breakthrough. Aside from any previous issues, it started to develop the early signs that the injector seals were on the way out, fuel pump was running more than normal, and it was intermittently cantankerous at starting. On taking the rocker cover off to sort the injector seals I discovered the problem shown in the attached photo. The pins around which the cam followers rotate in the rockers on no1 and no4 cylinders have lost their retaining dowels, and have migrated almost all of the way out of the rockers. The cast webs in the cylinder head have prevented them from escaping altogether, with the result that the rockers still act on the injectors as they should, albeit with quite excessive play. The engine appears to have been running like this for quite a long time with no untoward noises, in fact no symptoms at all other than the slight loss of power, as confirmed by the grooves worn in the aluminium by the ends of the escaped pins. According to my local dealer, Land Rover don't sell the retaining dowels except as part of a complete replacement rocker shaft assembly. So my solution was to remove all 5 retaining dowels, cam followers and pins from the rocker shaft - run a 3.5mm drill bit through the dowel holes, then tap them with M4 threads - then refit the whole lot with M4 grubscrews and loctite retaining them. So far it's up to about 400 miles on this fix and it doesn't appear to have exploded again yet, and I'm pleased to report that it now goes like stink. The truck is 1999, V reg, ex electricity board, was then owned by a local business and I am its 3rd owner, it appears to have been professionally maintained with quite a bit of documented history prior to my ownership. It has done 185k miles and had a new head fitted at 120k by the previous owners. I hope this is helpful to someone. I really wish I had found this issue sooner, and for the sake of 10 minutes of anybody's time, if there is any suspected issue then it must be worth popping the rocker cover off and having a look underneath just in case.
  25. Hi I have found a '98 110 defender with a dead engine and bought it for my next project - the problem is its in the middle of nowhere in the French alps. I need to shift it about 100km but the first 20 or so are v steep over a big pass with lots of tight hairpins - up and down. All the steep stuff is paved. Tow truck/trailer v expensive and difficult anyway because of narrow bridges so plan is to use a longish towrope and take it v v easy. Tow vehicle is a RR V8 so got the gas for it. Brakes and steering seem serviceable, have fluid etc. Any tips/warnings please? done plenty of tows before but not like this - will test of course. Thanks Adam