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Found 111 results

  1. ATTENTION: Land Rover 110 1984

    I have a 1984 110 and i wanted to know if i can fit the new defender doors with the up and down windows hopefully electrical ones. I just want to know if they fit and if they do which models are the right fit,
  2. Hi all, I have a Defender 91" 200tdi and recently the clutch pedal has started to feel soft and the biting point has dropped. On one occasion it was very hard to change gears. The clutch is about 2yrs old heavy duty ( last time it went it was the bearing/ pivot ball I think). Pedal has always been slightly soft for the first inch, but now is noticeable softer till about an inch or two off the bottom. No leaks or noticeable drop in fluid in the reservoir. I thought it might just need the pedal to be adjusted which I've done but still no luck. Any suggestions? Cheers, Ben
  3. Intercooler TD5

    My TD5 Defender 2000MY passed it's MOT with advisory of impending Intercooler failure. See picture. I bought it 4 years ago and been tidying it up all round and last year found turbo boost up to nearly 2bar. Reduced to around 1.5 max now. Is this a result of that over boosting?! Got a new one to fit now and looking at easiest way without removing coolant rad. Looking at previous I'm thinking of putting a tie wrap around the middle to support the lower frame?
  4. Faulty Stat?

    Hi guys Had a hose blow in the engine bay, chucked coolant everywhere. Replaced the section of hose and topped up the expansion vessel with coolant. Temp gauge still reading off the scale even though the engine block doesn't feel that hot. Is my first point of call the thermostat? Or something else? Thanks
  5. Hello everybody. This is my first post on this forum. First of all sorry for my English, it is not good =) We are a team based on Turkey. That name called "Land Rover Adventure Team Turkey". We have been touring for 10 years. This july we went to Iran but before we made a Turkey tour with many defenders after that 4 defenders went to Iran. We took 10550 km in 30 days. I upload some images. I Hope you will enjoy Next year we will be on East EuropeYou can follow us on Instagram (I hope giving a link is not a problem). I will post more about our tours festivals.https://www.instagram.com/landroveradventureturkiyeRegards,
  6. My RC Defender 90 :)

    Here's a few pics of my custom built D90 Landy. Hope you like. To see the build thread see this link... http://www.scalerc.co.uk/forum/forums-finest-builds/10372-bones-scx10-landrover-d90-build.html https://youtu.be/2HV4FX6JKn8 https://youtu.be/KnMF9lsc64o https://youtu.be/GgKrSRFsvLA
  7. PTO Winch help

    Hi Guys Cant find anything on this site or any others about this particular topic. Ive got a PTO winch on my 90 that is bolted on to the back of the transfer box, having never had one before it's all very mysterious to me. When stripping down the truck for a clutch change I stupidly took a bolt out of the bottom of the PTO box and got covered in oil that I wasn't expecting to be there! Question is does anyone know what oil I need to put back in there and how I go about doing it thanks in advance Farky
  8. Hi Everyone New to LR ownership but recently bought a 1987 90, with a 200 tdi and a few issues! Most pressing of these is the clutch, was getting hard to get into gear and then would not go into gear at all with engine running. Goes through gears fine with engine off. Clutch pedal very slack with almost no bite at all but no signs of leaking. After reading a lot on here I replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder and bled but that made no difference, so now decided that next step is probably to replace the clutch, or at least get in there to have a look. im a pretty amateur mechanic but having read the walk throughs feel alright about doing it myself. The issue I have is that I don't have an engine hoist or funds to buy one at the moment. My question is, how possible is it to do without one, and if it's very hard does anyone anywhere near oxford have one that they might consider lending/renting out for a weekend (hopefully won't take me longer than that)? Thanks Jake
  9. Well, after 3 years of sourcing, building and assembly...we've tested the rig enough to do a good beat down...here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAEs6Ojo77cLots of great tech from Hardline...so hope you like it...now: need some stickier/skinner big tires!
  10. Glass not level

    Hi all, This is my first post on here, was wondering if anyone could offers some advice. I have changed the winding mechanism, and the glass channel on my 89 plate defender. But have developed a bit of a problem. Ever since doing so, the glass doesn't seem to raise perpendicular with the frame. At the fully elevated position, the rear end of the glass is up as far as it will go whilst the front has about a cm gap before even touching the channel. Does anyone have any ideas on how to adjust this ? Regards KMW
  11. I'm have a bit of trouble with my trusty old Defender TD5 from 2000 The trouble started last week when it suddenly wouldn't start. All I got was no cranking over and rapid ticking from the starter. It have acted like that once before - which turned out to be a bad earth connection on the starter, so that was the first thing I checked. I also checked and cleaned all the other connection while under there. It turned out to be a dead battery instead. Easy fix. Then after I couple of days it wouldn't start again. But this time it cranks over like it should, but now I have no yellow glow plug or engine light when turning the key. The purring from the pump in the back is obviously also gone too. Here is what I have done so far which turned out fine (or at least I think so): Checked and cleaned the earth points underneath and under the seat (ECU) Checked all the relays for corrosion Checked all the fuses for corrosion Checked the ECU for oil (There was a tiny hint of oil, but I doubt thats the sinner) Checked the fuelpump by bypassing the relay It can't be the immobiliser as it doesn't have one. Battery, it's brand new. The temperature gauge moves a bit when I turn the key, but the goes straight back down to blue (C) again. If I remove the 30A Main Relay fuses under the seat and turn the key the temperature gauge goes into red (H) when the key is turned. I must have read everything there is on this topic, but still stuck so I would appreciate any pointers. I have attached a few images of the relays and ECU if thats any help. Thanks Jens
  12. Oil Service Warning

    Hello, I have a 2014 Defender 90 Hard Top E. I live in a part of Spain that is a long distance from an authorized service garage, so I had a local mechanic do the yearly oil change. I have every reason to believe that they really did perform the oil change (i.e. they showed me the box of oil containers they ordered specifically for me and then after showed me the empties on the floor which I asked to see) however, whenever I start the Defender the "OIL SERVICE" warning appears on the console momentarily. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this and/or what needs to be done to rectify it? I'm also concerned because I read somewhere in the manual that the warranty is void if the oil service is not performed on schedule. Any assistance would be appreciated. -David
  13. Hi all, I run a 300 TDI 110 CSW 1996 and I wonder if anyone has had a similar problem to this one. I have purchased the Bosch relay (0986335058) to provide an adjustable delay on the intermittent wipe for the front screen. It's a direct plug-in for the existing relay behind the fuse board in the cab and it's something I've known about for a long time and finally I bought one. It's a £40 upgrade so not cheap. It's a straight plug in, nothing else. However I can't get it to work. I can't set the interval and it will do multiple wipes - like two , three or even four. If I replace the old one I get the standard two / three seconds so I don't suspect there's a wiring fault. The supplier very willingly sent a replacement but this behaves in exactly the same way, so it can't be the relay. I have a healthy battery etc (I have a Fluke voltmeter so I know that battery volts are OK). At least 12.4v with no engine and up at 14.1 / 14.2 when charging. I'm beginning to suspect that there must be lower volts at the relay base (than at the battery terminals) and that this might affect the delay circuit (electronics) in the new relay. I hope to get chance to have a poke about with a voltmeter on the relay pins tomorrow. However I just wondered if anyone has any ideas or experience of this? Thank you
  14. Hi all, I'm having a few issues with the 130 aircon, it's a 2004 130 TD5 defender with the under dash AC unit. Currently I can not get it working, I've checked the obvious stuff like fuses and wiring. I'v connected diagnostics and could engage the compressor clutch from the relay, but not via the AC switch. It has gas so it should not be the pressure switch. I tested both switches and they are working fine. It has lost its lowest fan speed which made me think it was a fan resistor and I (with great difficulty) removed the resistor unit and tested both resistor coils and bother were good, I went to plug it back in and it only has three wires running to it, so one resistor coil does nothing? Is this standard? Maybe i'm completely wrong. I have had a look through the forums and can't find anyone who has had a similar issue and want to get it sorted before a trip planned in August. Thanks in advance for any help. cheers Mick
  15. Hello, before i ask my question i have to say i am a novice when it comes to mechanics but i have some common sense, so please forgive me for sounding odd in this topic. I am here on before of my dad who owns a "2008 Land Rover Defender 110 LWB 2.4TDCi Hard Top". recently he has been having a starter motor issue, essentially it is knackered and we need a replacement (hitting it with a hammer has stopped working). How ever when we were looking at it under the hood it does not look easy to get to, there are way to many pipes and wires in the way. So my question is, Does anyone know if there is a way of taking it out without having to unhook half the engine? or is it relatively safe to unhitch most of pipes that are attached with pipe fasteners that are in the way ? a friend of ours who is a mechanic on lorries said that if he could get down there he did not think there was enough space to pull it out because its right next to an engine mount, BUT i guess with some clever suggestive fiddling it will come loose ? I have looked online for other defenders and they seemed pretty simple but there were hardly any pipes in the way and there seems to be a lot of space around the starter motor where as with ours it does not seem that way. Anyway enough rambling, thank you for reading my post and i hope some of you guys have some enlightening input. Sorry again for the novice questioning. Adam P.S here are some images i uploaded to imgur as i could not upload on here : imgur.com/a/mafbt
  16. OK, maybe not an ideal subject among all you hardened Laners, but I would just love to find a way to fit electric adjustable mirrors to my '95 300 TDi. At my age, 70, I find I really miss the simplicity of using internal joy-sticks to vary the mirror angles as required while driving in perfect safety, which my wife's car had. I've been eyeing up various vans as possible doners, but can't decide which would give the best result. (I've no problem with making up some glassfibre cover between the existing hinge(s) and the 'new' Mirror(s)). Surely, somebody has carried out this conversion and I would love to hear how it went. Anybody?
  17. TD5 R380 to a 4.6 V8

    I haven't found the info i need between thousand of read pages.. so i just though of posting this here. any help would be greatly aprecciated. so i just got lucky, and a friend was tossing his td5 r380 gearbox, which obviously i wasnt going to let that happen. So i had an old lt77 suffix E which has some synchro problems. Is the input shaft from the lt77 interchangeable with the r380 one? i know the td5 r380 input shaft measures 22mm ish diameter and a bout 350 mm ish long, (measured from the front face of the 4th gear pinion) I have acces to a lathe and can modify the input shaft if needed. What are the exact measures im looking for?? what about the bell housing? could i use the lt77 one?
  18. Stumped - Knocking 300tdi

    Hi Guys, I'm stumped...my 1998 Defender 300tdi (422 000km clocked) is making a loud knocking sound. I have listened with a DIY stethoscope and can't seem to pin point it's origin. From inside the cab it sounds like drivers side. I have checked the vacuum pump...not that. Lift pump fine...pumping fuel. Head gasket was changed about to years ago. Checked for leak behind block ...cylinder no4...nothing. All clean. Not using water but is using oil...burning a little blue when idling at robots and slow traffic. Been meaning to replace stem seals. Leaking oil around sump area Recently did oil change, fuel/air filter, tappets and timing...was running smoothly and quietly. ( as Landy's go) for a couple of days. Then back to square one. The Annoying knock seems to occur when accelerating. Not all the time but mostly. There's no power loss at all. Done all the basic checks..so where do I go from here... Before you say engine overhaul (im cash strapped and cannot afford that now) but what can I check to narrow it down and get to the bottom of this. Thanks Guys
  19. Hi, Just bought a new Defender 90 and absolutely love it. The only problem I have are the brakes... Does have or know about the brakes developed by Bowler and Alcon and are they any good? Cheers
  20. rebuilt defender 200tdi oil leak

    A cautionary tale that might help others as well as a chance for those more experienced to chortle at a schoolboy error. Having finished the complete rebuild of my 200tdi last weekend the fateful moment came when you can't put off turning the key and seeing if all that hard work (and expense) has worked out. Key was turned and after not too much churning it started the oil pressure light went out smartly and everything sounded good. Whilst it warmed up I was feeling pretty smug until one of the kids asked where that large and growing puddle of oil was coming from. It was coming from the front wading plug hole in the timing cover and it clearly wasn't going to stop. Long story shortened the source of the leak was the bolt in the centre of the timing belt adjuster. I had fitted the gasket that effectively seals the thread of the adjuster securing bolt off from the oil coming from the nose of the camshaft that runs down the front of the block and back into the sump to the wrong hole. In my defense the manual seems to show the gasket going on the top hole and the you tube video I watched definitely shows it going on the top one . Obviously I should have checked by offering up the timing cover chest when I was building the engine and seen that in my case the bolt was going through the bottom hole but to be honest I didn't get the significance of the gasket. After sulking for a while I pulled the front of the engine apart changed the gasket along with all the others and the engine is now leak free as well as sounding good. Am I the first numpty to make this mistake I wonder?
  21. Hi all, I have a small, rusted hole in the bulkhead, just to the inside of one of the bonnet hinges. I was going to weld it initially, but I can no longer get hold of a mig, so I'm coming up with alternative suggestions... I'm currently looking at Evo-Stik's hard & fast metal epoxy putty, and my plan is to strip all the paint and rusty metal off, apply an anti-rust solution (any recommendations?), allow that to dry, then fill the entire hole with the epoxy putty (and thereby hopefully prevent it from coming away at the edges). Conveniently enough, my 90 matches smooth white Hammerite perfectly, so I was then going to paint over the putty with Hammerite. If it doesn't work out, I'll just have to get it welded in the future, but can anyone see any problems with my current plan? I'd appreciate any advice you can give me! Cheers, Will P.S. I also have a reasonably large dent in one of the wheel arches. Any tips on getting dents out?
  22. Best Vehicle for towing

    Hi guys I've just joined as thinking of my first defender, had a couple range rovers. Question, I know the answer is over loaded but have no choice. I've got a 4.3 ton chevy which is coming to Italy on the back of a trailer, as I said I know I'm gonna be to,d it's over weight. I'm think of a 90 to do the job as it with be kept and upgraded when in Italy, will a remap help towing this wait as didn't realise that land rover where so short on power. I will take advice and listen to criticism, I've been really ill with cancer twice and realise that my Mrs home land is so much better. I've up to £11,000 to spend on the right vehicle. My bother says a discovery but we have a farm in Italy and defender will be better. Thanks
  23. Defender transfercase oil leak

    I seem to have a fairly serious oil leak centered around the transfercase and looking at the oil spray pattern (see picture) it seems to be coming from the front output shaft. I am just beginning this Defender DIY ownership journey so I could use any advice i can get! I would love to not have to pay the $100 an hour for my mechanic, but I also dont have much experience with vehicle repairs.
  24. Speedo drive LT230

    I'm rebuilding a Defender 200tdi bought as an unfinished project. I can't see what holds the speedo cable into the drive fitting on the transfer box. The square cable end goes into the hollow square drive OK, but there's nothing to hold it in. Should there be some sort of a clip to hold the flange on the cable outer to the gearbox? Any ideas please. John
  25. Parameters

    So when I plug in my diagnostic tool to the 2.4 puma I get no fault codes but lots of other data from just about everything. My question is, where would I find a list of acceptable parameters? I see all this data but have no idea if anything is off as I don't know what the figures should be, or within range of.. I only want to know as she is running a bit rough and with no fault codes I want to check everything else is about right.