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Found 12 results

  1. Hi guys! Hippo needs rescue. Please help! Freelander 2004, TD4, manual. 93k. I keep getting the same code P1190- Fuel Rail Pressure Plausibility. Car starts limping usually in second and third gear around 2k revs +/- I tried many things already, cleared the code, but so far it keeps coming back when I go for a ride..... UNLESS I disconnect the fuel rail pressure sensor. Without the sensor connected the car doesn't limp anymore. Code comes with MAF disconnected for example. Injectors are fine. I do get live readings of 350+Kpa for LP and 26k+ at idle for HP pump, which goes up to 120k. Can't go past 3k revs in 5th gear, 70MPH. Unless downhill. I have videos if you need more evidence. But maybe you guys can explain why car doesn't go in MIL limp mode when fuel pressure sensor is disconnected. I checked the cables. They have 5v and 0.5v return at ignition. Can this mean 100% the sensor is broken? Any help sooo much appreciated!! I've been dealing with this for some time and have no idea what can be wrong. And how can I test what is broken....
  2. About to undertake a coolant bleed on. Freelander 2, diesel 2.2 ‘09. The workshop manual at step 13(or 14) lists a step as “connect exhaust extraction hose’ as a step towards reconnecting everything back. But don’t see this as being disconnected in the previous steps. Any ideas what this is or if needs doing is appreciated. Also (although the right step) is it necessary to disconnect the radiator hose to flush the radiator or (a lazy ass) coolant bleed to replace the coolant will do the job? I’ve only ever topped the (current) coolant with the coolant mix.
  3. Truck A is a xmod 90 2.5 na diesel (87) fitted with a Sedimenter along with the fuel filter, this works quite well seems. truck B is a 110 PU with a 200tdi (84) only a fuel filter , a project. the 90 has same size fuel lines to & from filters fuel tank., the 110 has smaller return line to fuel tank,. Is this normal for the two engines or is spec different for xmod? planning to add a Sedimenter to 110 & was wondering about the difference 2.5na & 200tdi engine parameters.
  4. Hi, My name is Dirk, I live in Belgium, in Sint-Niklaas and recently bought a 1979? diesel series 3 Station Wagon (chassis 93933397C). I'm the 3rd owner. It only ran for 6,5 years, from mid 1980 until beginning of 1987 and sat for 30 years. The previous owner had started out on a thourough renovation but stopped after having removed the wheels, suspension, axels, seatbox , front floor, radiator and waterpump. I sort of stumbled over it and now me and my sons will give it a try. My engine number seems a bit odd. Anybody has a clue? Apart from that, I have many more questions to ask since I am neither a trained mechanic or body worker. Thank you for your reactions!
  5. Just home from meeting up with some fellow enthusiasts whome I met at Budel. Three new friends all running series Land Rovers, one thing in common, all run a different engine than LR made them with, two of the three petrol and one diesel. Jos has a series 3 ligh. Iight weight with a rover 2ltr turbo petrol engine. Eric with a swb series 3 pick up with a Ford Essex V6 2.9 injection. Marlon with a series 2a lwb running a 200Di (less the turbo). I really liked the petrol powered trucks but the diesel engined lwb was just too loud for me!!! We talked a lot about the trend in the UK to stick a 200Tdi and now more commonly a 300Tdi motor in a series, and I pointed out the tax issue here as a persuasion to petrol but even Marlon agreed, if it hadn't been for the fact that his barge was 40+ and the conversion already done, he'd happily run a petrol in his series. Why? All said the noise of a clattery diesel was too much to bare in a series cab, all of them claimed figures of around the 10~10.5ltrs/100kms so diesel might not offer the saving grace of best consumption! I just thought I'd share as a former petrol powered series owner, I still don't see the fascination of fitting a 200 or 300Tdi in a series when there are so many smashing petrol lumps out there that can out do a diesel in everything except higher torque I suppose. I know there will be a few who will for sure knock petrol engines especially modetn electronically controlled ones in favor of diesels but I really don't see the fascination?
  6. My first post to the forum, I'm a Brit living in Norway. 2007 FL2 HSE, Diesel, Auto, 100k Kms Advice please - The other morning I was pulling out from a T-junction when the engine cut out, the 'Reduced Power' warning came on (like it used to when the DPF needed cleaning) the engine cut out completely & it wouldn't start again, though the it turns over fine. The fuel tank is a third full after being filled last week. There was no mechanical noise or rattle & no stutter from the engine, it just cut out. The local LR dealer has removed the high pressure pump & says he can see inside the the end of the cylinder head that the camshaft driving the pump is broken off near the end. His explanation being that a small piece of dirt had got through the fuel filter causing the pump to stall momentarily. This would have tried to stop everythign else turning that it was connected to & the end of the camshaft (being thinner cross-sectional area) had snapped off. He says all parts linked to the pump should be changed - fuel pump, both camshafts, timng belt, water pump, timing chain & tensioner) this comes to £5000 plus labour!! He doesn't list the fuel filter for some reason. I have 3 questions: 1 - Does this sound like a plausible scenario given that the 'reduced power warning came on for a few seconds & there was no 'bang' or rattle when it happened? 2 - If that's what happened, is it really necessary to replace all those other parts that probably look OK. 3 - What's to stop another piece of dirt blocking the pump again the week after I get ti repaired? I appreciate any advice & suggestions. My current plan is to move the car to a private mechanic (not LR specialist) recommended by a friend & try to source whatever parts are really needed from the UK. Thanks guys!
  7. In an effort to try to get everything working I am now tackling the electrical stuff that is under the bonnet, I say stuff as some of this is additional add on's and not fitted by me so therefore I don't know if it works or whether it is wired up correctly (a lot of previous repairs and work done on this truck is of questionable standard). This is a pic of the filter housing and the wires to the fuel pre-heater. I am not really interested on how it is wired up currently but how it "should" be wired up. Should it work in common with the glow plug relay? Should it have a timer relay of it's own? What should be the trigger for it? Any ideas, the net just yields new ones for sale and no instructions on how it should be wired in.
  8. The question is, will the engine run OK under road conditions, when the only fuel return is from the spill rail to the top of the fuel filter? At the moment the normal return to the tank is blocked, as the tank it goes to is removed for repair. The background is: I'm currently trying to make roadworthy an ex military 109" with twin underseat tanks, where a PO has changed the 2.25 Petrol to a 2.25 Diesel. The RH tank is leaky, and out of the vehicle for repair. The PO fitted just one fuel return, to this tank, and I've currently blocked it off. Using fuel in the LH tank, I have successfully started the engine, and run it on tickover for long enough to get the thermostat open. The 'return' from the spill rail goes to the top of the fuel filter, and it was this junction I opened to bleed the system before starting the engine. Thanks.
  9. Quick question. Is it possible to tee the leak off (return line) from Inj pump into the filter, to be circulated back into pump, without going to tank first? Or would lift pump pressure / return pressures fight against each other? Cheers
  10. Hi All, I was just wondering, are Land Rovers stopped to see if they have Red Diesel more than other cars? Are there similar dye based restrictions in Europe? Thanks, Mike
  11. Hi guys, I am looking at buying a 90 and have seen one in great condition, but it is a petrol and I have heard that this may not be great for towing horses and actually moving at any great speed. Please could you all have a look at the link and let me know your thoughts? http://www.walton-motors.co.uk/land-rover-defender-90-25-petrol-station-wagon-only-97000-in-cranliegh-surrey-2372894 Chassis great, interior great. Test drive - it moved (sorry, not an expert) Cheers, Ross
  12. I hope i'm not violating some rule, if so, please take into consideration i'm new at this site... I'm looking to convert my 94 Defender which has seen many miles and much abuse into a 300 TDI (wouldn't turn my nose up at a 200, but they seem to be harder to find in good shape) Diesel Defender. Mostly for the offroad torque and of course the mileage wouldn't hurt either, as Fuel (both Petrol and Diesel) are about US $5 / gallon here. I hear its even worse in the UK, you have my sympathy. ANyway, i've looked over this site and a few others, but mostly this site. I am currently a displaced American living in South America. Guyana (formerly British Guiana, remember that little territory?) Its difficult to get things into and out of here, so i have to do this all in one shot if possible. I want to get ALL the PARTS NECESSARY in one shot. I'm traveling to London in about 2 weeks and won't have much time there as i'll be traveling with family. Can anyone help by telling me, besides the motors and all ancillaries, what else i will need to make this conversion? Seems there are different opinions about the amount of work (skilled machinist work, welding etc is available here - fairly reasonable) but not parts! If i don't get it all shipped together, the headache is enormous! Obviously, i need the 300TDI (looking in case anyone has a good one...) I see possibly new motor mounts? all the ancillaries including radiator, pas pump, hoses, fuel lines, etc. is what i have picked up from the forums? But apparently some feel that fabricating a down pipe is not worth it as long as there are available pre made from Steve Parker or similar? Like i said, i'm going to be in the UK for a few days very soon, but i have to grab it and go. I'm also looking for any help anyone might be able to offer on shipping this stuff to Guyana. Anyone know of a reasonable shipper? So far, i have a quote from an ebayer selling a complete 300TDI who says he can get it shipped to the port for 450 British Pounds. WOW, that sounds like a lot of money! Am i being a cheapskate? Its the same price as his motor! Seems like a lot of money to ship. Any ideas? I sure would appreciate any advice from local's who might have had to use shippers before. Around here, they can all quote vastly different prices. As important as not throwing money away, is getting a good quality used 300 or 200 and all the other parts i need in one shot. If i open the box here and find out then that i need a 'left handled jiggle bolt' and a 'sky hook' , it'll take months to get it, and thats after i FIND one! I really appreciate any help. ps - currently i have a 4 cyl 2.5 Petrol and an R380 Trans that work fine, but its a little short on torque. The transmission was rebuilt by a local Landrover specialist with 38 years of experience working on Landrovers almost exclusively. Also the Transfer case. They both work fine and shift rather well, but there is a loud whine in 5th gear at a certain speed (around 55 or 60 mph) that goes away if you either accelerate or decelerate but stays a loud whining noise if you keep a constant speed in 5 th gear. I've been driving it for 2 years with the same whine, so maybe its just that it's my first landrover and ive only had it 3 years and i'll just get used to it? i've alreay gotten used to the drips of oil from everywhere all over the yard! It doesn't affect performance, its just noisy! if its a problem, id like to get it fixed but if not, well, leave well enough alone. The trans had a new main shaft from Ashcroft Transmissions, a new mainshaft bearing, new baulk rings, seals and a few other parts. Reused many other parts. again, any help you guys can offer would be REALLY appreciated, especially if it saves me from having the thing down for a few months while i realize after tearing it down, that i should have picked up a $10 parts while in the UK!
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