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Found 10 results

  1. On my 200tdi i’ve been searching for the correct indicator cancel ring that attaches to my wheel. i have a classic 4spoke defender wheel. any idea on what the cancel ring is and where i can buy one. i’ve bought one before but it doesn’t even fit on my steering column. please help :/
  2. Looking for recommendations on improving my electrical situation. I just finished switching my 200 tdi one ten over to all LEDs (headlights, instruments, interior, indicators, etc..). I am also running an electric fan which has a fairly large draw. I have noticed that when the RPM are low and the fan is on I am dipping below 12 volts. When that happens the headlights and blinkers flicker. Are there voltage regulators that maintain a higher steady voltage? Should I be going with a dual-battery system?
  3. Hi Folks, Have been running some new separate electrical cables for the front headlights on my 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi. Upgrading with dedicated relays and new cable runs. Will post a link to blog on then once finished. However, when feeding the new loom (in conduit) from behind the heater and across the inside top of the NS wheel arch, noticed that the tape protecting the original cables had taken some abuse. That said, not enough to damage the cables (yet). Thought it would be worth posting this since trying to figure out these sort of electric problems can be tricky and this might be a common failure point longer term. To ensure indicator and side light cables not going to be at risk, have decided to cover this portion of the original loom with split conduit. Simon...
  4. Bonjour, I'm going to rewire the Ninety and looking into building, as usual, the wiring loom myself. However, I'd rather not use the 3 mm female bullet connectors as I did with other vehicles but use the LR type multiplugs. We're talking about the switches on the right bottom of the dash - like rear heating etc. - with the round pins. Any idea where to get the plugs for these ? Thanks
  5. Hi all, im sure this has been covered but i cant find the answer im looking for. My 02 td5 90 brake lights have stopped working. The tail light parts work when the lights are turned on but when i press the brake pedal they dont brighten up as the should the just go off altogether. If i dont have the lights on and brake nothing happens. So bulbs look fine, fuse fine. So would it be the brake switch? I cant seem to licate the switch, does anyone have a photo to help me find it? Or is there a relay for the brake lights? Many thanks in advance Joe
  6. Can anybody tell me what the problem is in the pic, and what parts I need to fix it? Also.. While I'm firing questions about, The 15amp fuse for the turn light, headl/tail lights and break lights keeps blowing every time I turn my 1996 Es 300tdi on, sometimes just when I'm driving to.. When I indicate right rhe trailer light flashes asswell, not sure if that's relevant.. But o haven't got a clue where to start looking for the short, any ideas? I'm new to all this land rover business, I'm pretty aware mechanically but I can't speak the language ? So any help would be great ? Thanks
  7. Hi has anyone relocated the front electric window switches from the arm rest to the blanks either side of the ash tray? If so what's involved?
  8. Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum & Land Rovers in general. I now own a 1991 Defender 90 pick up truck (2.5 NA Diesel) & I'm in the process of tidying it up as it was purchased from a farm (lots of encrusted animal poo included). Most of the panels are a mismatch in colour & the wheels were/are awful (tidying the steelies up). Onto my electrical problem; My headlights have started playing up. My OS light works on sidelight, normal beam & high beam, whereas my NS light only works on the high beam? I've searched the internet/forums & most point to the light switch/stalk, but mine works on full beam so doesn't that rule it out? I've then gone into the fuse box & this is the diagram. In red is the number of the fuse actually in the holder. In blue are the bits that I've managed to find out it's use: I pulled fuses 11-14 all out, & the lights still worked (as described before)?. At first I thought the fuse box had been screwed in upside down due to the strange fuse locations, but I found the fog light fuse ruling out that thought. I have no idea what 15-17 do either. Any advice on what it could be, what I would need to test certain parts & also how to do those tasks (as I know very little about the electrics) would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance - Robert (Rabit)
  9. Probably not what Dan had in mind for the "Special Projects" forum but I thought it kinda fitted the description. As I've found myself wiring various vehicles over the years, it's always struck me that the available fuseboxes are never quite right - they don't hold enough fuses, or they are a pain to mount, or they are huge, or it's not easy to get power in to all of the circuits, etc. etc. So, while waiting for my code to compile, I had a go with the crayons and knocked up something to see how it turned out. Built up with some fuses fitted: Added feature - fuse blown LED indicators: I went a bit OTT with it really - the footprints for the connections allow for blade terminals facing up, or at 90degrees as seen here, or wires soldered in. The main connection is 6mm or 8mm screws/bolts for ring terminals (or solder in a fat cable I suppose) with more spade/wire terminal holes if required. All the fuses are bussed from the main feed. Interestingly, while testing to see if it would handle the current, I discovered that one of the 30A fuses was getting quite warm at ~20A. Investigation revealed that the fuse was dropping about 0.2v across it! Swapping for a different 30A fuse (presumably a better made one) knocked this on the head and the drop went down by a factor of ten. One minor restriction is you can't run loads of amps through it, the back of the envelope suggests perhaps 80A max in total, although aside from an electric fan or two there's not much on a car that will be drawing more than 10A all the time, so overall it should be more than happy unless you run 12 pairs of spotlights off it all at once (I know there are some people...) I was aiming to get it smaller than the 12-way bussed Marine fuseboxes (165mm x 95mm x 57mm) that are the best solution I've found so far, the overall size is 100mm x 90mm, and allowing for 6mm spacers underneath it's 28mm tall. I could shave some off but I wasn't sure of how accessible the fuses/connections would be so I erred on the large side. 2nd time round I may compact it all, or add more fuses. What do people think? Will I sell a million?
  10. Am I right in thinking that on my 1991 200TDi 90 the clock and the interior light are fused/ connected together. My interior light is missing and the clock is stopped too. Cheers.
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