Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Lift Pump'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
    • New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
    • The New Ineos Grenadier
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Blogs

  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 6 results

  1. Hi, I'm having a problem with my 1998 300tdi. Slow to start, sits fine at idle, dies on acceleration. Sounds familiar, simple fix, change the lift pump. But no! Lift pump changed, no difference. So changed fuel filter, air filter, oil filter (not related but I was in a filter mood). Engine starts slowly runs on idles, dies on acceleration. Possible dodgy replacement lift pump? Off it comes and another one put on. Tested both for blow/suck on activating the pump lever. All good. Start it up, fine on idle, (you know where this is going) dies on acceleration. So I crack the banjo bolts on the fuel filter and there's a healthy flow coming through. Checked the bleed screw, expecting some bubbles then fuel. Nothing coming out at all. I take the bleed screw out completely, still nothing. Out of curiosity I put my finger over the bleed hole and there's positive air pressure building up behind it. So much so that it gives a good hiss when I take my finger off, like if you had your thumb over the end of a bike pump... There's no obvious drips or leaks, of fuel anyway! Any thoughts on what could be causing my issue or whats next in the check list?
  2. Anyone offer a perspective on this please? I've got both air heater and water heaters (Eberspacher) in my 110. The water heater has been in there 15 years and works fine, the air heater only installed last year (works fine too). For both I tee'd into the fuel line at the lift pump before the fuel filter as has been commonly suggested. However although both heaters work ok I've had an ongoing problem with the vehicle's running - ok at low to moderate speeds but runs out of steam at higher speeds. Injectors are serviced, new lift pump & fuel filter and fully overhauled FIP a few weeks ago (for the second time!). I know my FIP was knackered and it was fixed, and the lift pump was faulty too, but its all tip top and shiny new and I'm still experiencing poor full-load running (going up hills specifically). I'm starting to suspect this could *possibly* be a fuelling issue and might be related to the tee'd heater lines. I've got clear pipe on the water heater and when the lift pump is operating it causes the fuel in the heater line to visibly 'bounce' up and down. I'm wondering if the addition of the two T's to the fuel line is having an effect on the lift pump efficiency when the engine is running. I've checked all the pipe connections to the heaters and they appear to be tight so my initial assumption that air might be getting in seems rather unlikely. The Eberspachers wont fire up with air in the system as the heater shuts down and flags up an error code, and thats not happening so I'm *guessing* it indicates all is ok. However...is it possible that the lift pump pressure is enough to pull air in somewhere down the heater line without it being obvious to the heater sensors? As the heaters run ok its only the vehicle running that concerns me. Would an electric lift pump (which might be a good thing anyway as I've used 5 lift pumps in the last three years) be a good move as it might more reliably lift the required volume of fuel despite the tee'd take offs? Or tap into the fuel line at the tank exit (on the side 110HT 1989) and run a dedicated fuel line to the heaters? Or tap into the tank at top (I've cut the rear tub floor already and put a wee hatch in it so can get access easily to the top of the fuel tank) and insert a dedicated into-tank line for the heaters? So I guess the wider question is - is it conceivable that the additional fuel take-offs are affecting fuelling at high rpms?
  3. Defender 200tdi - Noticed diesel smell yesterday and had a look and the side of the engine and I've got diesel on the block and down on to the prop and chassis crossmember. Only small amounts - drips it seems and as far as I can see it's coming from the bottom of the lift pump where it's mated to the block. I've not run the engine and watched yet, but there doesn't appear to be any leaks higher up - the pipes are all intact and dry and the upper body of the pump is dry too. I've recently replaced the spill pipes on the injectors and they all seem ok and not the culprit. So, if something fails inside the lift pump (is there a rubber membrane that creates a vacuum?) would this cause diesel to run into the rest of the lift pump and come out the bottom, maybe even through the lift pump casing?
  4. Hi all, I'm new to the forum and was looking for a part number or specific size of the two bolts which secure the fuel lift pump to the block on a discovery 1 300tdi. I somehow managed to lose a bolt while i was putting on a new delphi pump on mine today. Don't ask! Rough measurement of the bolt i have is a hex flange m8x25mm. Is that correct? Have searched high and low online for a part number but to no avail. Thanks in advance, Frank
  5. I am having power problems on my 1995 Discovery 300tdi. One of the items to check is the Lift Fuel pump, which I changed. However, even is I put cylinder #1 on top, the fuel pump press again the cam a few mm and thus, deactivates the lift pump lever and I can not use the lever to purge the line. I got a second lift pump and it is the same. I am missing something?
  6. Recent discussions about running veg oils and FIP pumps got me thinking, how do you field test a lift pump (mine is a 200 TDi Disco) to ensure that it still working and that the FIP isn't drawing the fuel from the tank?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy