Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'R380'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
    • New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
    • The New Ineos Grenadier
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum


There are no results to display.


  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 12 results

  1. I have an oil cooler adapter that came with an LT77 Discovery gearbox but can not work out the correct thread size, pitch and type for the in and out ports so that I can make up some hoses. Does anyone know the correct threads for these ports?
  2. Hello folks, short intro first: owner for 7 years, went through seals and one master cyl. replacement (2017), had problem with slave seals replacement (reported to forum here: ( ). Soemtimes (not allways) I felt clutch slipping when driving in 5th after sudden accelerator pedal pushed to the floor - only the engine responds with higher revs, but no change in vehicle speed. Seldom gearbox rejected to shift in reverse, but on second try it went. Since last year, in a two months a tea spoon of clutch fluid would be needed to top-up the reservoir. About a month ago LR hasn't been used for about two weeks, it has been parked in sloped street, nose down (if that is important). Car was left there in perfectly running condition. Was in a hurry, jumped in and went off. Just after start it was clear that any gear cannot be selected w/o high force and grinding sound. Because I was in a hurry I continued and finished short trip w/o clutch. In a following days a check was made and conclusion was that every gear can be selected when engine off, but none when engine on :-(. In next days clutch was bled, no bubbles, only black fluid (can be seen in reservir as well), still cannot select any gear when engine running. Idea popped my mind to try to extend clutch plate travel by extending clutch slave rod travel by setting clutch pedal to higher distance from floor (than stated in manual). And voila! I can change gears even when engine running w/o grinding sounds! With a lot of confidence in own LR mechanical skills jumped in and went off. Cold shower - grinding sound again. Then new test has been made: when engine idling any gear cen be selected, but on higher revs - not any! For about two weeks now I drive LR 3 times a week, change gears up and down with double declutching (w/o accelerator pedal in between) and more time between gears (in order to cease engine revs). No any other problem evident. My question is: should I try to replace master + slave + flexi hose first, and then to go complete clutch replacement (plate, spring plate, rel. bearing, lever, spigot, rear main seal), or to go to complete set replacement at once (to shorten repair time), or there are other problems (gearbox...) that could produce problems like mine? Sorry for long post... Regards, Ivan.
  3. I've recently bought an X-Eng/Foundry Gear lock for my 200tdi/R380 One Ten but can't fit it. I've spoken to them about the issue and they say that the transfer lever is bent and this is what is causing the issue. Looking at it, it looks normal to me but what do I know (very very little)... So I've spoken to someone today who says I may have a disco box in there and not a Defender one. Is it possible to tell from the picture if I have a Disco or Defender box and is the lever "normal"? Thanks, Heds
  4. So I thought I had got to the point in my slow rebuild process where I was ready to drive it out of the garage for the first time under its own steam. I pressed the clutch, it felt normal. Tried to put it into gear, the clutch wouldn't disengage. Bled the clutch again, exactly the same. Checked the slave cylinder (new maybe 10k miles ago), that move fine with no leaks. As far as I am aware, since I have owned it, my Defender has never had the little clip to hold the slave push rod onto the release fork (FRC3327, I just ordered one) so I thought maybe the push rod was missing the 'hole' in the fork. I smeared it in red rubber grease, tried it again and it has transferred grease it into the hole in the fork but there is no red trail elsewhere. So I have taken the gearbox off. Flywheel had some surface rust, it hasn't moved since I fitted the clutch maybe 2 years ago(!). On removing the pressure plate, the friction plate was stuck to the flywheel so I thought I might have found the problem, but then a gentle tap freed it off. I did notice evidence that the release bearing has touched the 'fingers' on the pressure plate. I don't want to put the gearbox back in until the little clip has arrived so in the meantime have I missed anything really obvious? It has had a new AP clutch, new HD release fork and also a new master cylinder and pedal assembly (my old pedal was the old type which wouldn't accept the assist spring). Whatever length the push rod in the slave cylinder is, it is the one which used to operate this car's clutch fine. I am assuming the new master cylinder pushes the same amount of fluid as the old one? (new one is from a Puma, old one is probably the original NA Diesel one). I don't want to have to put the old one back on to find it makes no difference! The Defender is a 300Tdi with R380. Thanks!
  5. Hi all, My 2004 TD5 Defender has the dreaded stuck in gear problem. I had reversed into a parking spot, put it in first and when I released the clutch it stalled as if I was in 3rd. Now if I start the engine without the clutch down I lurch forward and no matter how I manoeuver the gearstick it creeps forward in what I believe to be 3rd. I've searched around on here and have seen various people describing releasing the detent and massaging it back into neutral. My problem is I'm vaguely mechanically minded (I've done some basics like replacing the intercooler, changed to braided brake hoses, etc), but I've never worked on gearboxes before. So when I read people's descriptions of how to go about fixing it, I am a little confused by some of it. After wrestling the tunnel and sound deadening off, I didn't recognise what people were describing. Lifting the middle seat and cover, I THINK I have found the detent, but I wanted to confirm that it was what I was looking for (see picture). Questions for the gurus on here; 1) Is that hole what I am aiming for ? If not, where am I looking ? 2) Assuming that is what I am aiming for, what is the correct procedure for releasing the spring and getting it back into neutral ? Any help would be most appreciated. Craig
  6. As you guys are a great source of wisdom, etc... I hope you can tell me what this is ? I was led to believe it is a thermosstat housing for the R380 and attaches the oil cooler to ? And the "sensor" ? Warning light or gauge sensor... Thanks
  7. I haven't found the info i need between thousand of read pages.. so i just though of posting this here. any help would be greatly aprecciated. so i just got lucky, and a friend was tossing his td5 r380 gearbox, which obviously i wasnt going to let that happen. So i had an old lt77 suffix E which has some synchro problems. Is the input shaft from the lt77 interchangeable with the r380 one? i know the td5 r380 input shaft measures 22mm ish diameter and a bout 350 mm ish long, (measured from the front face of the 4th gear pinion) I have acces to a lathe and can modify the input shaft if needed. What are the exact measures im looking for?? what about the bell housing? could i use the lt77 one?
  8. HI I've a quick question about my R380 oil. I don't know what was put in my gearbox at the previous oil change but I've decided to change and use MTF94 which I have bought from Smith & Allan. I've drained the oil (what a messy job with the cross member in the way) and just about to squirt the new stuff in but it's the consistency of water (almost). It's so different from what was in so I presume 1) previous is ATF and 2) MTF makes cold gear shifts easier because I've had some difficulty with 2nd on the first selection or two on a cold morning. Is the watery MTF94 OK??!! I've read-up so much before choosing it that I'm sure it must be but a second and third opinion would help. Thanks
  9. Following or rather during my over the mountains trip to Melbourne (as detailed in trips) I've developed a high pitched gear whine which is predominant in 4th and 5th but also noticeable in the lower gears when climbing steep rocky dirt roads -- of which we drive over 500 kilometers. I've noticed that the whine seems to almost completely vanish when I power off. Any ideas as to what I should look for ?
  10. Hi All, Although I've been following this forum for some time now, this is my first post here. I bought a 1996 Disco 1 with a busted engine and a ruined BMW auto box. I rebuilt the engine and overhauled the Bosch VE pump. But that have not given me the engine output i desired(acceleration & torque) and I am now considering a gearbox replacement. And heres my problem. Should I get a fully overhauled ZF auto box (cheaper option) or go for a full manual conversion (expensinve option, but will pay for it self in the long run through better fuel consumption) with a used R380 manual gear box which I dont know in which condition it is, wear & tear wise.
  11. Hi Chaps I recently got my old RRC a new MOT and back on the road after nearly 10 years. Either I have gone soft or got some of my hearing back, but it is WAY noisier than I remember - and I think a new gearbox will be in short order. It currently has the original gearbox & transfer case in one (lt35?) which makes more noise than the engine at idle when I let the clutch out (layshaft bearings?), and seems like it is going to explode in a shower of cogs beyond about 40mph. It's got oil in it.... I have an autobox which was originally intended to replace it but I can't bring my self to fit it - I kinda like shifting! So...hopefully I can tap some knowledge on my replacement options. This is what I think I know so far: 1. A santana would be strongest, but on the rare side. Given the rather tame offroading I am likely to do probably un-necessary. Annoyingly I turned one of these down about a year a go! 2. R380 next preferred alternative. Looking at ebay I think this will be too expensive for me though. 3. LT77 most likely. I guess I have to look for one off a V8 with the right length bellhousing - so that means off a disco right? Also I have a 1.4:1 LT230 off a TDI which I intended to fit to lower the ratios to suit the bigger wheels. I was thinking about this the other day and thought why, on a diesel engine which revs lower, would you lower the ratio rather than raising it? Have I bought the wrong one? Finally, is there any funny stick arrangements I should be aware of. I'm hoping for a fairly drop-in replacement. (looking forward to being rid of the vacuum difflock tho!) Saw this as an example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170974830323?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 ...is this what I'm looking for? Sorry about the load of questions, but the more I looked the more I confused myself! Need an expert to tell me how it is. Rob
  12. I'm getting rolling on replacing the V8 and series gearbox in my 88" with an R380 and 300 TDi. I've got the old engine and gearbox out, and I've been wandering around with a tape measure: It seems they won't fit (easily). These are the options: Move the engine and box back far enough to fit everything in. The problem here is the transfer box lever ends up more or less in the middle seat and the gear change will be by the driver's elbow (not comfortable) Get the gearlevers in the right place, with the engine forward, but use a defender front end to create room for the radiator. This also solves the issue of where to put the intercooler - currently not enough room to put it side by side with the rad. Get a stumpy bellhousing, correct placement of gearlevers, series front end remains. (£300 ish for the conversion I think) Use a charge air cooler and put the radiator in the back. I see the best option for least faf and best value as fitting a defender front end, but I'm not keen on doing this as I want it to look like a series! Any other options I haven't though of?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy