Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'TD5'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
    • New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
    • The New Ineos Grenadier
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Blogs

  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Hi, My TD5 defender has failed its MOT because of a “tiny” hole in the bulkhead but I am told it can’t be welded and I need a new bulkhead. 😞 Have heard of all sorts of scare stories but maybe today’s fitters expect to be able to swap out identical parts without the coach building like fitting techniques required to build a defender. Anyway there seam to be 2 options .. shielder (but if a bashing on here) and terrain tech. Can anyone say which one today might be easier to fit ? Is there a better manufactured bulkhead and if so by who ?. If anyone knows of someone good near Glasgow who they can recommend for a bulkhead replacement then please let me know. Thanks
  2. Hello Gentlemen, After rebuilding the Salisbury axle on my 1999 110 TD5 and welding on a new rear quarter, I'm now reassembling and as a first step, attempting to reinstall the plastic fuel tank. I'm doing so single-handed (although I understand assistance is recommended). So far, I haven't sworn so much since the last time I hadn't sworn so much. I was able to fit the fuel pipes between the pump and the filter on the ground then waggle them through the chassis - as I did with the fuel filler and breather hoses. But trying to get the tank into a position to fit the longer fuel pipes to the pump has been a little bit frustrating. I'm trying to use a trolley jack to hold up the rear of the fuel tank guard and an axle stand to hold up the front part... but there's a lot of slipping and sliding. The fuel pipes just seem to be too short to line up with their sockets. Is it humanly possible to do this without help?
  3. I'm a new member of this here forum.i own an play with off road vehicles for 2 years still a bit of a beginner in UK.back home in north spain is an absolute paradise for this hobby with mountains,mud,snow,rocks etc.my friends there are very knowledgeable about mechanical an 4x4 affairs.very capable ppl.i would love to find that kind of know how ,camaraderie an become part of a group but with covid is probing very difficult with most clubs meet once a month in so an so pub. car is a discovery 2 td5 modified 2inch super gas lift,bumpers,winch,insa turbo 33s,chimney and lights.190kmiles I do use it off road nearly weekly(when it works)but nothing too extreme yet.like I said I'm new to UK 4x4 so still finding byways, tracks,like minded people etc live in london so is harder to get out to the good stuff. So I find myself in need of help.my experience with some of the independent land r garages not been the best I would say(terrible an very expensive ) so decided to make the st down my house my garage.....sounds great until reality kicks in an u realized eagerness cant fix ignorance lol.or when u need to lift car properly or press some bearings.sorry to bore u guys to death I'm coming to the actual problem car runs good normally .just fix idler pulley an tensioner pulley week before.car run perfect for a week then one night I hear the fuel pump whining but only briefly then I resume my way home an park.next morning we going offroad so early up 2 mates coming to my house an car wont start.got car working with some axe perfum but is plenty smoky .when it usually never is.....so cancel trip back to boxes.i txt my friend he says nearly sure is air in fuel sistem. I try to visually inspect lines,order no return valve an regulator valve an re fit.when I open no return valve is not even there.been running without one.re prime pulling lever 5o 6 times contact on .then repite couple of times Nothing ,nada,zilch.im at a loss here dont know what to do next.i think I need someone with expertise I could get car to their premises if need be.i live in kilburn area london.if anyone could help with any of this problems I will be their slave for the foreseeable future.i used to work as a spray painter in mercedes dealerships an other brands so if u have the premises I can help.......thanks in advance guys an gals
  4. I have a 2002 Landrover Discovery and I am wanting to turn ACE off as I spend my time in the outback. Basically the ride is way to hard. I have changed the shockers to Bilstien Gas & upgraded the springs to match. After owning a early model Range Rover and seeing how good their ride was I am trying to replicate it by turning off the ACE system. Does any one know if this is possible.
  5. Another one that I'm always being asked for. The connectors in this series are made exclusively for BMW by TE Connectivity (AMP), and aren't available commercially (except to Jaguar/Land Rover and a few other manufacturers). However - a 'zero coded' (universally keyed) version can be bought from a BMW dealer - The BMW part number for the female connector, is - 61 13 8 367 076 BMW's zero coded connectors are 'Water Blue' to denote that they are universally keyed Female terminals and seals have to bought separately (picture from BMW parts listing) - 2.5 - 4.0mm² cable Female terminal = 61 13 8 352 926 Seal = 61 13 8 352 924 1.0 - 2.5mm² cable Female terminal = 61 13 1 392 304 Seal = 61 13 1 383 791 0.5 - 1.0mm² cable Female terminal = 61 13 1 392 302 Seal = 61 13 1 383 789 .
  6. I get asked for these all the time. The glow plug connectors are not available from Land Rover, except as part of the complete engine harness. I’ve looked for a supplier – but, it’s not clear who actually makes them for Leoni Wiring Systems (Land Rover’s harness manufacturer). However, I’ve been reliably informed that the same connector is used on some VAG (VolksWagen, Audi, Seat, Skoda) vehicles, and is available from a VAG Dealer, as part number 028971782A In the Defender / Discovery-2 engine harnesses, the other ends from the glow plugs, are all crimped together to the yellow/black feed wire from the glow plug relay, and sleeved over. .
  7. Hi all, would need help about my defender 110, 1998 TD5. I came home previous night and the next day won't start up. First thing I notice is that glow plug indicator (yellow) and engine warning (red color) on dash board don’t light up with oil and batery light. Usually when i turn the key all of them light up and when i start the engine they turn off. Second thing i notice is that I didn’t hear the pump. Usualy, when i turn the key, i heard the pump for about 5-10 sec, then it stops, and i start the engine. Now i don't hear it, when i turn the key 1 step. I check all fuses and relays, all of them get 12V. Then I disconnect pump relay and put a wire in 30 and 87 on pump relay contact and the pump start work (there is noise) but glow plug indicator light isn’t there. Fuel tank show half full, and i did around 400km since i last tank it, so it should have for est 200km. When i try to start the engine it’s only starter working and nothing happens. Check all groundings and clean cables. We have 20-30 degrees celsius. Check fuel pump kill switch relay. I have doubts, that the diesel don't come to the engine (injectors). Is this pump problem? Or is some ground around ECU? that don't allow pump relay to start the pump? Please any help. Thanks
  8. greetings Land Rover people I have a fleet of Td5 safari vehicles in Botswana and the TD5's lives are coming to an end, some are dying around 2-300k km and others only at 400, 450+, but they are dying, and I am looking for an alternative, 300Tdi doesn't have enough power, our vehicles are 150" wheelbase 12 seaters that pull big trailers though thick botswana sand so we need an engine with lots of guts. Personally I love V8's but carrying around 250 litres of highly flammable fuel in a vehicle with 12 people in doesn't tickle my fancy. I was wondering if anyone has an experience with these engines: https://cumminsengines.com/repower and whether it would work as a replacement engine for a TD5. thanks Heiko
  9. A friend has recently bought a 2002 TD5 90 and he asked me to have a go in it today to see what I thought. All seemed lovely, except I noticed the clutch felt heavy versus mine (300tdi) and the gearchange rather vague (I'm assuming the latter is the bush at the base of the gearstick being worn). I thought that maybe the clutch return spring had broken, as I have had that happen twice (the new 'clothes peg' type). However to my surprise, when I looked the clutch pedal had a coil return spring which was fine, but that accounted for at least some of the extra clutch effort needed. I understood maybe incorrectly the clothes peg spring was the latest condition, and had been in use since the 300tdi, hence how come he has a coil? The parts references I looked at suggested that was the case. I know LR would have used whatever handy if short of what they should have used, but looking through the forum eg linky it looks like he is not alone. Has anybody any ideas whether this is intentional, ie there is a sound engineering reason for regressing or just supply problems maybe? It would probably get changed at some point if there was no good reason not to. Nigel
  10. Morning chaps, I got in the car this morning (2002 TD5) and started driving and soon after I hear a periodic smacking/clunking sound as if something attached to the wheel was hitting the underside of the car. the sound then suddenly stopped and the car then violently drifted to the right and then felt as if the front right tire was flat, so I pulled over and saw the tire was absolutely fine. I started driving again slowly and there was low grinding noise coming from somewhere in the drive train when in gear and coasting in neutral. My guess is the front right half shaft or wheel bearings have gone? On Monday I'm borrowing a mates lift so I'll be able to spin the wheels to try and find out where the sound is coming from. Any insight in the meanwhile is much is appreciated.
  11. Hi all, My mates 2004 td5 defender has had a major electrical failure. His dipbeam, rear demister, dials/speedo etc, electric windows and air con have all suddenly died. We have checked fuses and relays and they are all good. Does anyone know if these are connected or what I could check next? Thanks for all your advice!
  12. With JVC having launched a mech-less double din head unit and the reviews being quite good, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and see if we couldn't make it fit into the 90.... Pull the dash apart to reveal dust from various parts of Europe.... Then set to some hacking.... The insert section was always a poor fit, so I decided to use some clear Gorilla Glue I had in the cupboard to bond it in... One edge sat proud so clamped overnight.... Some filling and hacking later..... I decided to fill the recess to sit the unit on the surface of the dash, mainly because I couldn't figure out how to make a recessed landing point to match the original.... The insert was still quite proud so that needed leveling with the DA sander. Quite a few fills and hacks later, using my favorite tool..... Time to key the paint and get a cover of colour back onto the panel... Problem..... Gorilla Glue reacted with the paint.... So.. Leave it all to dry, hack out the bad stuff and decide the only course of action is to fill the gap with the bad glue... While that was drying, a few wires to sort in the truck and a quick test run.... Then back in for some more sanding..... And a little while later after general 1000 grit smoothing... More paint... It's not perfect, but a few more coats on from this picture most of the little pits have been filled and it's looking ok. I plan to leave it to cure for a few days now and get the compressed air into the dash area, clean out some dust and add more lightness....
  13. While doing some work on the TD5 Disco the other day I accidentally caught the steel coolant pipe that runs behind the rad-stack with a grinder and put a little groove in it. It's not right through but I think that with temperature cycling and vibrations it would not be a good idea to leave it since it would almost certainly crack. Since that pipe is expensive and looks like a bit of a pain to fit I was thinking of mig welding it in situ. I have drained that coolant, but there may still be a small amount of it behind where I would be welding. Is that likely to be a problem? (I am good enough that I won't be blowing through the steel, and I would clean the area first) Cheers Rog
  14. Defender Td5 110 2003MY The fuel feeder (fuel tank > engine) pipe of my Defender was scrubbing against one of the mounting brackets welded on the chassis. This caused a leak and I had to replace the whole line 🙁 from the tank to the engine.. As the new line comes with all quick release connectors already mounted, I now have the following problem: The space between the chassis cross member (the one just in front of the fuel filter) and the upper body is not large enough to allow the connector through this space. When removing the old line I just cut it. But feeding the connector through the gap does not work as the gap is just too small. What to do? Raise the body 5 mm from the chassis to widen the gap? That's a lot of work. Is there another method while leaving the expensive replacement fuel line intact? See picture (I temporary led the line below the cross member, but it has to go above, between the cross member and the body). Anyone having experience with this? Kind regards Rob
  15. Hi there, New to this forum so be gentle! I’m looking for some advice about my 04 Defender 90 Td5 - I get a metallic scraping scratching noise at about 30mph when I’m setting off - seems to be coming from left hand side fwd wheel but can’t place any closer than that! I’ve checked for rubbing on the wheel, and had a root around behind it but have yet to see any cause. My next thought is whether the wheel bearing is worn which I’m going to check this weekend when I’ve got time (hopefully!) but was wondering if anyone out there has had a similar problem or knows what else it could be? Thanks!
  16. Got up to maybe £12k to spend, want another Disco (started chasing rust on the current TD5), so the options are a really good TD5 or a not quite so good TDV6. I am not in a hurry and will be looking for less than 80,000 on the clock. I am interested in ALL opinions, even trivial ones like 'I don't like the shape', but technical reasons would be nice. Cheers Roger p.s. I don't like rust... I really don't like rust!
  17. Morning All, Happy New Year everyone! It's been a while since I posted here, but I am a few weeks in to a '03 TD5 double-cab, so a whole host of new issues to sort out! (an 'upgrade' from the 300Tdi 90). Currently on my mind is the alarm. As far as I can tell, this doesn't work at all. The light flashes about once a second all the time I'm driving, but doesn't come on at all when I lock with the central locking (key doesn't work in the door - another issue!). Also, possibly related, the interior light doesn't come on when the doors open - it's fine on the switch on the light, but not the doors. I've assumed that both of these have been switched off in the ECU for some reason. I'm also assuming that the alarm was switched off because there was some issue with it, but maybe a previous owner had a dog and was getting false triggers? (here's hoping!). I don't get any warning sound if I try to lock with the door open. So, a few questions if anyone can shed some light for me... Can the lights and alarm be switched on/off in the ecu through Nanocom? Does this mean that any toe-rag with a nanocom can break in and simply switch off the alarm and immobiliser? Assuming there was some issue with either the alarm or immobiliser, how hard is it to diagnose and fix such issues - does nanocom tell me why the alarm was triggered so that I can fault-find it? Does anyone know of a group-buy for nanocom atm?! Is there a handy guide to the alarm/immobiliser somewhere? Many thanks everyone, John
  18. Good evening, You guys have been invaluable during various parts of my TD5 overhaul. I’ve got a leaking rocker cover gasket, and I’m about to replace for the first time. Any advice would be extremely appreciated. Kind regards Fox
  19. Hello all, I'm looking for a source for the nut and bolts for the defender TD5 2003 to rebuild the dash. The dog got the cardboard withthe screws in and fubared that up. Now I need to put it back together. Part list / where it all goes is what I'm after. Thanks, Sean
  20. Hello, I've had a very tight Defender TD5 2003 oil sump bolt removed by a garage, as it was wedged in. Tried all sorts, and they had to weld bolts on to get it off. Up shot is that it's leaking, I've taken it back and they have said bring it back, but it's time and fuel bringing it back over. I was looking to get an oversized oil sump bolt to replace it with. Helicoil I've heard mix things, and then when I come to change the oil next time I don't want to faffe about. I've read that the bolt is a M16, 16.5mm 1.5m thread, would the following Sealey set be the right thing to fix it with? Sealey VS617 Oil Drain Plug Thread Repair Set - M17
  21. Afternoon all, Does anyone know if the TD5 washer pump wiring is man enough to run a second washer pump of the older type ? If it is, does anyone know where I can buy the plastic housings with the 2 lucas spades to fit on the older pump ? I know 2 spades will do but a connector always looks better 😉 Cheers Mo
  22. Hi I have a Defender TD5, year 2000 and recently I've had some serious overheating issues. It first occurred when I was on the M25 and all of a sudden the gauge got very high so I pulled over and steam was coming out of the expansion tank. I then put 10 litres in and went on my way, which worked fine, then on the way back (so having travelled about 60 miles) the same happened again and the tank appeared to be empty again. Since then its got worse and there are no visible leaks from any pipes so I was very confused. Having taken it to the garage they have replaced the Thermostat, Water pump, heat gasket and had the head skimmed, but still the problem persists. Anyone please got any suggestions? Thanks
  23. I just thought some people might be interested in this... 53reg Discovery TD5 automatic with 18" wheels wearing BFG AT2's I recently drove from Aberdeenshire to Portsmouth, then around the Picos De Europa for a few days, then back from Portsmouth to Aberdeenshire, and (Unusually for me) I kept a note of fuel and mileage. The numbers are below. Miles litres MPG Notes 518.8 74.29 31.75 Mainly motorway cruising at 60mph (Aberdeenshire to Portsmouth) 243.2 44.78 24.69 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 149.1 26.34 25.73 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 309.6 58.82 23.93 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 186.0 39.25 21.54 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 550.8 75.40 33.20 Mainly motorway cruising at 60mph (Portsmouth to Aberdeenshire) Totals: Miles Litres Average MPG 2508.3 404.28 28.2 Other points of note about this trip: I find it interesting that the Spanish bits vary so much in fuel consumption, and also that I used less fuel coming home from Portsmouth to Aberdeenshire (since it's uphill, obviously) than I did going The engine had a mild oil leak when we set out (probably rear cam cover), and it no longer has (and yes - there IS still oil in it ) The suspension noticeably smoothed out during the trip - like maybe the shockers needed some exercise? (the car has been standing for a while before this trip) The tyres (brand new BFG AT2s) were noticeably quiet to start with, but more noisy after a few hundred miles, to the extent that I was wondering about wheel bearings) I got an XYZ warning light (M+S) once, but tazzing the stick back and forth with the ignition off cleared it I got an ACE warning once (amber) but that also cleared by turning the ignition off and on again. There were no other problems at all... All in all I had a great trip and the Disco is a wonderful touring vehicle.
  24. I have a Disco 2 in which the air conditioning allows separate temparature control of the left and right sides. I drive alone quite often and I want to be able to affect both sides with one switch... So my question is: If I simply wire in a couple of jumpers between the switches, will a click on one switch affect both sides? (I am also thinking of having a switch in the jumpers so that I can have them isolated if I want)
  25. Ok so I have always been aware of the wiring on the TD5's leaking oil down the cabling. I have been experiencing a misfire and cutting out for a few days and had it booked in to get it looked at when it finally came to a halt. The engine would fire and run but as soon as any revs were put on the engine the engine management light would go on.Basically limpped into town in low box and idle. The AA man was stumped but he read the fault codes ad there were many of them. I the remembered a conversatio with my LR Technicia fried ad decided to lift out the ECU. The ECU ad conections looked fie but I decided to unplug the cables to have a look and foud a nice blob of oil in the red plug. AA man used solvet cleaner and that cured the problem. Very interesting and neither he or I could beleive the difference. Now does anybody know the part number for the replacement wiring?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy