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Found 14 results

  1. Hi, Just curious as to what I should expect to pay a mechanic for a 300 tdi cam belt change? Any advice appreciated. Cheers
  2. Hi, I've got a manual 300tdi disco. The speedo stopped working the other day, but then half way through my journey it just picked back up and continued fine. It's done this a couple more times now. Any ideas what component is at fault? Cheers.
  3. Hi, My 200 tdi has suddenly become hard to start if it hasn't run for a while. If it has just run it fires up straight away. When starting it will crank over and over and over then catch and stop then catch again, run very lumpily then start running normally with a blip of the throttle. There is always white smoke on start up which clears as it heats up. Once running it is fine, there is plenty of power and I can't detect any issues. No hunting, surging etc etc. My plugs are only a few years old but I haven't taken them out to test on the bench. I'm getting 10v at each one My battery is at 12.5v Earth strap is fine (tested with jump cable from battery negative to chassis and also engine) Starter isn't sluggish and spins at normal speed New fuel filter fitted New leak off pipes between injectors fitted (but not pipe back to FIP) FIP was replaced in 2011 Injectors have had no love since I bought the car (100K +) so that is on the list to do. Today I took out the fuel filter housing bleed screw and unplugged the FIP stop solenoid wire and cranked the engine over while watching it on a video camera. There was no fuel coming out of the bleed hole despite plenty of cranking. I then replaced the solenoid wire and tried again and there was instantly a gush of fuel from the bleed hole. Now. I'm not the brightest sandwich in the tool box but I'm pretty sure the lift pump is manual so I think the FIP solenoid wire has no bearing on the lift pump and this was a coincidence. Which means that fuel is possibly leaking back from the filter back to the tank and I had to crank it a lot to prime the line again. Based on the symptoms and bits and bobs I've played with. What tests should I try and what should I be looking at next? Many thanks.
  4. I have always enjoyed driving the 300 TDI since 1997, i currently face problems when i drive over an hour and the engine is heated. Once i turn off the engine, my car can't be started anymore. There isn't even any cranking, relay or solenoid sound. Does anyone here face this similar problem? Would you please share your experience and suggest what's wrong with my car?
  5. I'm of the opinion that the cylinder head on my tdi 200 isn't in the best of health, worn valve guides and the like, etc and was thinking of getting it reconditioned. The two serious reconditioners, Turners and ACR, both have a "performance" version of the head for not a lot more money. Has anyone fitted one of these heads? What was the experience before and after? I'm just wondering if it's worth it? G.
  6. Hello folks, Just a thought of mine but would it be possible to make a chip/Micro-controller to replace the engine ECU that allows an older engine to be installed in a Disco 2 Td5 but still retain all the features that makes the D2 so lovely What I am proposing is a plug in chip to replace the engine ECU with the following features: Can read a crank sensor on the new engine. Can read the oil pressure switch. Can read the temperature sensor. Puts out a 12v feed for the stop solenoid. Controls an electric actuator on the fuel pump for throttle control (no changes to interior or pedal box and retains cruise control function). Basically meaning the all the D2 ECUs are happy and the car drives like a normal D2 with fully functioning gauges etc but has a Veggie oil friendly simple engine under the hood and lets the auto work correctly. So id like to open up a discussion on this idea... what does the engine ecu need to tell the rest of the car? Is this feasible technically? Over to you
  7. Hi all! I have came to the conclusión that the 200 Tdi Discovery that my brother gave me (rotten and with broken engine) is beyond repair. I will buy my own Discovery. Secondhand late 200 and early 300 are in the same price range. The preparation of the 300 will be cheaper, because I save the 10 to 24 spline conversion (I could use a 200 and 10 spline lockers and HD shafts, but they are more expensive than 24 spline ones). In the 300 I can fit a EGR blanking kit but, what about electronics? A friend bought the "spider" bypass loom AMR4956 for the immobilizer, but was unable to locate where to plug it (suposedly the connector is located at the back of the ICE). I have two spare 200Tdi engines. The big question is: can I fit the non-immobilizer injection pump from the 200 as a direct replacement for the 300 one? What about the injectors? That will create an absolutely electronic free 300. As some of you will know, one of my "vapour build" projects is a 20 speed Mitsibishi-Rover gearbox. The 300 is suposed to be located further front into the engine bay, something desirable when fitting a longer gearbox. I have tried to tell the 200 vs 300 engine location difference by looking to propshaft lengths, but they are the same. Seems that R380 is longer than LT77. How much? LT77 is 94cm long drum brake to belhousing/flywheel housing joint.
  8. Quick question. Is it possible to tee the leak off (return line) from Inj pump into the filter, to be circulated back into pump, without going to tank first? Or would lift pump pressure / return pressures fight against each other? Cheers
  9. I recently had a Britpart fuel pump fail on me. Interested to what I would find inside, I decided to cut it apart. This is what I found. I was actually quite surprised. The general quality of construction is quite reasonable. The rubber in the diaphragm and valves is of good quality. However, what caused it to fail was the filter on the inlet clogging up. I have come across TDi fuel pumps with a removable cover that houses an inlet filter. This one was not removable so you cannot clean it without cutting the pump open. So my conclusion: Sure, use a Britpart fuel pump, but fit something like this on the inlet to keep the internal filter clean.
  10. I hope i'm not violating some rule, if so, please take into consideration i'm new at this site... I'm looking to convert my 94 Defender which has seen many miles and much abuse into a 300 TDI (wouldn't turn my nose up at a 200, but they seem to be harder to find in good shape) Diesel Defender. Mostly for the offroad torque and of course the mileage wouldn't hurt either, as Fuel (both Petrol and Diesel) are about US $5 / gallon here. I hear its even worse in the UK, you have my sympathy. ANyway, i've looked over this site and a few others, but mostly this site. I am currently a displaced American living in South America. Guyana (formerly British Guiana, remember that little territory?) Its difficult to get things into and out of here, so i have to do this all in one shot if possible. I want to get ALL the PARTS NECESSARY in one shot. I'm traveling to London in about 2 weeks and won't have much time there as i'll be traveling with family. Can anyone help by telling me, besides the motors and all ancillaries, what else i will need to make this conversion? Seems there are different opinions about the amount of work (skilled machinist work, welding etc is available here - fairly reasonable) but not parts! If i don't get it all shipped together, the headache is enormous! Obviously, i need the 300TDI (looking in case anyone has a good one...) I see possibly new motor mounts? all the ancillaries including radiator, pas pump, hoses, fuel lines, etc. is what i have picked up from the forums? But apparently some feel that fabricating a down pipe is not worth it as long as there are available pre made from Steve Parker or similar? Like i said, i'm going to be in the UK for a few days very soon, but i have to grab it and go. I'm also looking for any help anyone might be able to offer on shipping this stuff to Guyana. Anyone know of a reasonable shipper? So far, i have a quote from an ebayer selling a complete 300TDI who says he can get it shipped to the port for 450 British Pounds. WOW, that sounds like a lot of money! Am i being a cheapskate? Its the same price as his motor! Seems like a lot of money to ship. Any ideas? I sure would appreciate any advice from local's who might have had to use shippers before. Around here, they can all quote vastly different prices. As important as not throwing money away, is getting a good quality used 300 or 200 and all the other parts i need in one shot. If i open the box here and find out then that i need a 'left handled jiggle bolt' and a 'sky hook' , it'll take months to get it, and thats after i FIND one! I really appreciate any help. ps - currently i have a 4 cyl 2.5 Petrol and an R380 Trans that work fine, but its a little short on torque. The transmission was rebuilt by a local Landrover specialist with 38 years of experience working on Landrovers almost exclusively. Also the Transfer case. They both work fine and shift rather well, but there is a loud whine in 5th gear at a certain speed (around 55 or 60 mph) that goes away if you either accelerate or decelerate but stays a loud whining noise if you keep a constant speed in 5 th gear. I've been driving it for 2 years with the same whine, so maybe its just that it's my first landrover and ive only had it 3 years and i'll just get used to it? i've alreay gotten used to the drips of oil from everywhere all over the yard! It doesn't affect performance, its just noisy! if its a problem, id like to get it fixed but if not, well, leave well enough alone. The trans had a new main shaft from Ashcroft Transmissions, a new mainshaft bearing, new baulk rings, seals and a few other parts. Reused many other parts. again, any help you guys can offer would be REALLY appreciated, especially if it saves me from having the thing down for a few months while i realize after tearing it down, that i should have picked up a $10 parts while in the UK!
  11. Basically, ive got a petrol Series 3.. Am going to convert to 200tdi. Question being, how is best to connect up the return fuel pipe? Should i get the proper bit that screws in the tank, from a diesel, so it has the feed and return pipe? Or just drill and solder a fitting to the one i already have? Then it gets complicated... I've got dual fuel tanks. The feed goes through a diverter switch, connecting either tank, and the fuel gauge sender of the relevant tank. Are there any diverter switch that switch feed and return? Or will i need to get a seperate switch and link the two some how? Any thoughts on this / how to go about linking two switches? Cheers
  12. I'm getting rolling on replacing the V8 and series gearbox in my 88" with an R380 and 300 TDi. I've got the old engine and gearbox out, and I've been wandering around with a tape measure: It seems they won't fit (easily). These are the options: Move the engine and box back far enough to fit everything in. The problem here is the transfer box lever ends up more or less in the middle seat and the gear change will be by the driver's elbow (not comfortable) Get the gearlevers in the right place, with the engine forward, but use a defender front end to create room for the radiator. This also solves the issue of where to put the intercooler - currently not enough room to put it side by side with the rad. Get a stumpy bellhousing, correct placement of gearlevers, series front end remains. (£300 ish for the conversion I think) Use a charge air cooler and put the radiator in the back. I see the best option for least faf and best value as fitting a defender front end, but I'm not keen on doing this as I want it to look like a series! Any other options I haven't though of?
  13. Apologies for posting this in international, but as it pertains to all flavours of 300TDi I didn't want to post in multiple forums (fora?) Current situation: 300TDi transplant into an 88". It's a tight squeeze, but I've managed to make the standard Defender downpipe fit without too much drama. I'm now experimenting with various ideas for the middle section. It looks like the standard Defender middle/exit will fit with a bit of jiggling - but it's £75 for the middle section with a silencer - I'm not sure I'm willing to spend that much! So, the question is: How noisy is a 300TDi without a silencer? Noisy enough to justify £75?
  14. Recent discussions about running veg oils and FIP pumps got me thinking, how do you field test a lift pump (mine is a 200 TDi Disco) to ensure that it still working and that the FIP isn't drawing the fuel from the tank?
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