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Found 81 results

  1. Hi all, My mates 2004 td5 defender has had a major electrical failure. His dipbeam, rear demister, dials/speedo etc, electric windows and air con have all suddenly died. We have checked fuses and relays and they are all good. Does anyone know if these are connected or what I could check next? Thanks for all your advice!
  2. With JVC having launched a mech-less double din head unit and the reviews being quite good, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and see if we couldn't make it fit into the 90.... Pull the dash apart to reveal dust from various parts of Europe.... Then set to some hacking.... The insert section was always a poor fit, so I decided to use some clear Gorilla Glue I had in the cupboard to bond it in... One edge sat proud so clamped overnight.... Some filling and hacking later..... I decided to fill the recess to sit the unit on the surface of the dash, mainly because I couldn't figure out how to make a recessed landing point to match the original.... The insert was still quite proud so that needed leveling with the DA sander. Quite a few fills and hacks later, using my favorite tool..... Time to key the paint and get a cover of colour back onto the panel... Problem..... Gorilla Glue reacted with the paint.... So.. Leave it all to dry, hack out the bad stuff and decide the only course of action is to fill the gap with the bad glue... While that was drying, a few wires to sort in the truck and a quick test run.... Then back in for some more sanding..... And a little while later after general 1000 grit smoothing... More paint... It's not perfect, but a few more coats on from this picture most of the little pits have been filled and it's looking ok. I plan to leave it to cure for a few days now and get the compressed air into the dash area, clean out some dust and add more lightness....
  3. While doing some work on the TD5 Disco the other day I accidentally caught the steel coolant pipe that runs behind the rad-stack with a grinder and put a little groove in it. It's not right through but I think that with temperature cycling and vibrations it would not be a good idea to leave it since it would almost certainly crack. Since that pipe is expensive and looks like a bit of a pain to fit I was thinking of mig welding it in situ. I have drained that coolant, but there may still be a small amount of it behind where I would be welding. Is that likely to be a problem? (I am good enough that I won't be blowing through the steel, and I would clean the area first) Cheers Rog
  4. Defender Td5 110 2003MY The fuel feeder (fuel tank > engine) pipe of my Defender was scrubbing against one of the mounting brackets welded on the chassis. This caused a leak and I had to replace the whole line 🙁 from the tank to the engine.. As the new line comes with all quick release connectors already mounted, I now have the following problem: The space between the chassis cross member (the one just in front of the fuel filter) and the upper body is not large enough to allow the connector through this space. When removing the old line I just cut it. But feeding the connector through the gap does not work as the gap is just too small. What to do? Raise the body 5 mm from the chassis to widen the gap? That's a lot of work. Is there another method while leaving the expensive replacement fuel line intact? See picture (I temporary led the line below the cross member, but it has to go above, between the cross member and the body). Anyone having experience with this? Kind regards Rob
  5. Hi there, New to this forum so be gentle! I’m looking for some advice about my 04 Defender 90 Td5 - I get a metallic scraping scratching noise at about 30mph when I’m setting off - seems to be coming from left hand side fwd wheel but can’t place any closer than that! I’ve checked for rubbing on the wheel, and had a root around behind it but have yet to see any cause. My next thought is whether the wheel bearing is worn which I’m going to check this weekend when I’ve got time (hopefully!) but was wondering if anyone out there has had a similar problem or knows what else it could be? Thanks!
  6. Got up to maybe £12k to spend, want another Disco (started chasing rust on the current TD5), so the options are a really good TD5 or a not quite so good TDV6. I am not in a hurry and will be looking for less than 80,000 on the clock. I am interested in ALL opinions, even trivial ones like 'I don't like the shape', but technical reasons would be nice. Cheers Roger p.s. I don't like rust... I really don't like rust!
  7. Morning All, Happy New Year everyone! It's been a while since I posted here, but I am a few weeks in to a '03 TD5 double-cab, so a whole host of new issues to sort out! (an 'upgrade' from the 300Tdi 90). Currently on my mind is the alarm. As far as I can tell, this doesn't work at all. The light flashes about once a second all the time I'm driving, but doesn't come on at all when I lock with the central locking (key doesn't work in the door - another issue!). Also, possibly related, the interior light doesn't come on when the doors open - it's fine on the switch on the light, but not the doors. I've assumed that both of these have been switched off in the ECU for some reason. I'm also assuming that the alarm was switched off because there was some issue with it, but maybe a previous owner had a dog and was getting false triggers? (here's hoping!). I don't get any warning sound if I try to lock with the door open. So, a few questions if anyone can shed some light for me... Can the lights and alarm be switched on/off in the ecu through Nanocom? Does this mean that any toe-rag with a nanocom can break in and simply switch off the alarm and immobiliser? Assuming there was some issue with either the alarm or immobiliser, how hard is it to diagnose and fix such issues - does nanocom tell me why the alarm was triggered so that I can fault-find it? Does anyone know of a group-buy for nanocom atm?! Is there a handy guide to the alarm/immobiliser somewhere? Many thanks everyone, John
  8. Good evening, You guys have been invaluable during various parts of my TD5 overhaul. I’ve got a leaking rocker cover gasket, and I’m about to replace for the first time. Any advice would be extremely appreciated. Kind regards Fox
  9. Hello all, I'm looking for a source for the nut and bolts for the defender TD5 2003 to rebuild the dash. The dog got the cardboard withthe screws in and fubared that up. Now I need to put it back together. Part list / where it all goes is what I'm after. Thanks, Sean
  10. Hello, I've had a very tight Defender TD5 2003 oil sump bolt removed by a garage, as it was wedged in. Tried all sorts, and they had to weld bolts on to get it off. Up shot is that it's leaking, I've taken it back and they have said bring it back, but it's time and fuel bringing it back over. I was looking to get an oversized oil sump bolt to replace it with. Helicoil I've heard mix things, and then when I come to change the oil next time I don't want to faffe about. I've read that the bolt is a M16, 16.5mm 1.5m thread, would the following Sealey set be the right thing to fix it with? Sealey VS617 Oil Drain Plug Thread Repair Set - M17
  11. Afternoon all, Does anyone know if the TD5 washer pump wiring is man enough to run a second washer pump of the older type ? If it is, does anyone know where I can buy the plastic housings with the 2 lucas spades to fit on the older pump ? I know 2 spades will do but a connector always looks better 😉 Cheers Mo
  12. Hi I have a Defender TD5, year 2000 and recently I've had some serious overheating issues. It first occurred when I was on the M25 and all of a sudden the gauge got very high so I pulled over and steam was coming out of the expansion tank. I then put 10 litres in and went on my way, which worked fine, then on the way back (so having travelled about 60 miles) the same happened again and the tank appeared to be empty again. Since then its got worse and there are no visible leaks from any pipes so I was very confused. Having taken it to the garage they have replaced the Thermostat, Water pump, heat gasket and had the head skimmed, but still the problem persists. Anyone please got any suggestions? Thanks
  13. I just thought some people might be interested in this... 53reg Discovery TD5 automatic with 18" wheels wearing BFG AT2's I recently drove from Aberdeenshire to Portsmouth, then around the Picos De Europa for a few days, then back from Portsmouth to Aberdeenshire, and (Unusually for me) I kept a note of fuel and mileage. The numbers are below. Miles litres MPG Notes 518.8 74.29 31.75 Mainly motorway cruising at 60mph (Aberdeenshire to Portsmouth) 243.2 44.78 24.69 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 149.1 26.34 25.73 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 309.6 58.82 23.93 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 186.0 39.25 21.54 Spain - sedate driving on mountain roads 550.8 75.40 33.20 Mainly motorway cruising at 60mph (Portsmouth to Aberdeenshire) Totals: Miles Litres Average MPG 2508.3 404.28 28.2 Other points of note about this trip: I find it interesting that the Spanish bits vary so much in fuel consumption, and also that I used less fuel coming home from Portsmouth to Aberdeenshire (since it's uphill, obviously) than I did going The engine had a mild oil leak when we set out (probably rear cam cover), and it no longer has (and yes - there IS still oil in it ) The suspension noticeably smoothed out during the trip - like maybe the shockers needed some exercise? (the car has been standing for a while before this trip) The tyres (brand new BFG AT2s) were noticeably quiet to start with, but more noisy after a few hundred miles, to the extent that I was wondering about wheel bearings) I got an XYZ warning light (M+S) once, but tazzing the stick back and forth with the ignition off cleared it I got an ACE warning once (amber) but that also cleared by turning the ignition off and on again. There were no other problems at all... All in all I had a great trip and the Disco is a wonderful touring vehicle.
  14. I have a Disco 2 in which the air conditioning allows separate temparature control of the left and right sides. I drive alone quite often and I want to be able to affect both sides with one switch... So my question is: If I simply wire in a couple of jumpers between the switches, will a click on one switch affect both sides? (I am also thinking of having a switch in the jumpers so that I can have them isolated if I want)
  15. Ok so I have always been aware of the wiring on the TD5's leaking oil down the cabling. I have been experiencing a misfire and cutting out for a few days and had it booked in to get it looked at when it finally came to a halt. The engine would fire and run but as soon as any revs were put on the engine the engine management light would go on.Basically limpped into town in low box and idle. The AA man was stumped but he read the fault codes ad there were many of them. I the remembered a conversatio with my LR Technicia fried ad decided to lift out the ECU. The ECU ad conections looked fie but I decided to unplug the cables to have a look and foud a nice blob of oil in the red plug. AA man used solvet cleaner and that cured the problem. Very interesting and neither he or I could beleive the difference. Now does anybody know the part number for the replacement wiring?
  16. Hi all, my names Adam, Im a keen metal Detectorist, motorcyclist, and camper. Tomorrow (16.5.18) im going to look at a LR Defender 110 TD5 Country - Expedition Spec It will be my first ever Land Rover - and I know nothing about them, apart from they good off roaders which will be great for my camping and metal detecting. Here are the specs - Any pointers very welcome. 12 MONTHS MOT + 6 MONTHS WARRANTY* 2001 X LAND ROVER DEFENDER 110 2.5TD5 COUNTY SPEC UTILITY 5 SEATER, REBUILT & PREPARED IN 2016 WITH £££'s SPENT ON NEW PARTS INCLUDING GALVANISED CHASSIS, 16" BOOST ALLOY WHEELS FITTED WITH DISCOVERER COOPER AT TYRES, Four wheel-drive, Blue, FULL LENGTH ROOF RACK WITH REAR LADDER, UPGRADED HEADLIGHTS & SIDE LIGHTS, DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM, FRONT BUMPER, LIGHT GUARDS, OLD MAN EMU SUSPENSION, ELECTRICAL POINTS & MUCH MORE, the garage is looking for just shy of 13k - Is that about right? I have also printed a list of things to check from LRO.com I look forward to hearing from you all soon. Kind regards Adam
  17. Defender 90 (2002) TD5 - Really struggling to refit fuel tank and tank guard. Any tips greatly appreciated. There's just so little space to work in. Got the tank located but getting the guard into position seems impossible. Struggled for ages to get the front located over the chassis carriers but it all fell out went i tried to edge it forward to get the cross member studs in place. Big hammers, jacks, blocks of wood ...... should it really be this difficult? Thanks, Jim
  18. Hi Folks,Problem with the immobiliser on my Defender TD5 99'.Fitted new front LED spotlights yesterday. Disconnected battery using correct procedure. Disconnected old lights and wired in new lights. Reconnected battery before bolting new lights into place to check all was ok. Lights all working - no problems.Disconnected battery again using correct procedure and finished bolting lights into place. Checked connections one last time and all secure. Reconnected battery again.This time small blue light started flashing on top of the dash panel and when trying to start siren goes off and engine immobilised. Removed negative terminal and siren stops. When I reconnect the negative terminal there is no alarm only when I try to start engine.I've tried searching on the internet and these forums but it's a bit of mine field. Can any one explain to me what exactly is going on?Thanks in advance.Sam
  19. Afternoon all... I'm having an intermittent starting issue with my W plate Disco 2 TD5, and it's been getting worse recently. I'll try to start it, and it won't crank, all the lights illuminate on the dash, and it starts bonging at me. I also get that weird 'B' symbol on the LCD display, which apparently means the immobiliser has kicked in. Disconnecting the battery for a minute sorts it, but it is getting quiet annoying to have to do that. If it makes any difference, I'm unlocking it with the key, and locking it again with the switch on the dash via the passenger door. This is to prevent the alarm arming itself, as the remote part of the key is long since kaputt. Where should I start looking for the fault? Thanks all Matt
  20. Hey guys, I have 2000 Defender 90 TD5. It's the XS model so came with ABS. Over the last year it had developed the infamous 3 amigos. But they didn't all light at once. When you started up ABS and TC remained lit. Then upon using the brakes for the first time after starting, there was little to no braking power. It felt like the brakes were grinding. After letting off the brake and braking again they worked perfectly (without ABS) but the brake warning lamp came on and stayed on. I had the codes read with a Hawkeye Pro and it was throwing everything related to ABS. The mechanic suggested removing ABS entirely and replacing with non-ABS braking system. He specialises in Land Rovers had done it previously to another Defender. So now the jobs all done, braking is perfect, but the 3 lights are constantly illuminated. Reading the codes shows the following: "ECU ground or Reference ground fault" "Front Left sensor electrical failure" Clearing the codes gets rids of the sensor fault but ECU ground fault stays, and the 3 amigos never go out. Has anyone has any similar experiences or idea on where to start looking? I used a multi-meter to test the ground from ECU to -ve terminal and it was fine.
  21. When I got my 1999 td5 110 some years ago I was quite excited about the fact it had factory air con in it. Having lived with it for a bit I am now less than impressed with it and am wondering if some kind folk here can help me improve the general performance of the system. In particular, I am not impressed with the lack of heat circulation - I'm used to early 110s and always tended to have a decent amount of air directed to the footwell which worked quite well for me. With the aircon system I don't seem to get significant amounts of heat down there at all and with all the hot air going onto the windscreen my feet are freezing! Is this normal for early style dash air con defenders or am I going to have to delve deeper into the system and look for missing hoses etc?
  22. Nothing to see here... Move along please.. Yep... Everything looks normal here... Ahh, now that is getting interesting
  23. A friend has recently bought a 2002 TD5 90 and he asked me to have a go in it today to see what I thought. All seemed lovely, except I noticed the clutch felt heavy versus mine (300tdi) and the gearchange rather vague (I'm assuming the latter is the bush at the base of the gearstick being worn). I thought that maybe the clutch return spring had broken, as I have had that happen twice (the new 'clothes peg' type). However to my surprise, when I looked the clutch pedal had a coil return spring which was fine, but that accounted for at least some of the extra clutch effort needed. I understood maybe incorrectly the clothes peg spring was the latest condition, and had been in use since the 300tdi, hence how come he has a coil? The parts references I looked at suggested that was the case. I know LR would have used whatever handy if short of what they should have used, but looking through the forum eg linky it looks like he is not alone. Has anybody any ideas whether this is intentional, ie there is a sound engineering reason for regressing or just supply problems maybe? It would probably get changed at some point if there was no good reason not to. Nigel
  24. I have alloy wheels on my Disco 2, and the nuts have corroded under the caps, meaning that I can't get my impact socket on them without a struggle. (I have to use a rattle-gun to undo my wheelnuts since I am not as strong as I used to be). I don't particularly want to replace them with the same so... A while ago I found some wheelnuts for sale on ebay that were intended as replacements for the standard alloy-wheel nuts with the silly cap thing, but were solid machined steel, but now I can't find them. Can anyone help please? I guess as an alternative I could buy the normal ones and boil them in Linklife before use - that should stop them corroding
  25. Hi all, The basic question: any opinions on replacing rockers and/or rollers on a Td5 rocker shaft? They're not available as separate parts (wonder why), so it would be with donor parts. My rockers show two codes: nos 1 & 5 show the code V8294 E6 while the three middle ones are V8294 E1. Some context: yesterday while replacing the injector seals during car mechanics course, we discovered some wear on the camshaft lobe and rocker roller of the middle cylinder. We replaced the rocker shaft assembly by a 10p (A-type) rocker shaft which was at hand. The 15p-type (B-type) rocker shaft (part no MUI000040) supercedes the 10p-type (part no ERR7231), so we assumed that the reverse is possible. Later on I found mixed opinions on the interchangeability. In the English workshop manual only (so not in the Dutch version which I used at the time !) Land Rover states that the 15p version/B-Type can be used in the 10p, but warns that the correct one needs to be used. This worries me. Later on, an indie told me that he has rebuild some rocker shafts, so I'm now considering this an alternative to replacing the complete shaft. He also didn't replace the camshafts but for one which had 2mm deep scoring. Meanwhile the Defender seems to run fine, and has done approx 100 miles before getting home from the workshop, although I seem to feel some lightly more intense vibration that can also be attributed to doubts/paranoia. Regards, Joris
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