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Found 14 results

  1. I've searched here and couldn't quite find the answers I was looking for, but please post links if you think I've missed it. I'm fed up with the brakes on my 300 tdi defender 90 being useless. I changed to td5 110 vented fronts with new calipers and 110 rear calipers"with a slight mod" I've tried fitting a td5 abs model servo and master cylinder too without success. I've got a scrap disco2 I'm breaking and a discovery 300tdi that I'm breaking. could I fit the abs module from the discovery2 to my 90? and use the axles of the 300 tdi discovey? will the disco2 abs ecu be able to read 300tdi abs censors? Would I be able to fit the flywheel censor of the disco 2 for the ecu engine speed censor? or has someone made a module to convert alternator W sine wave onto suitable square wave for the ecu? I thought if I'm going to the effort of fitting ABS I may as well try and get the TC and hill decent to work as well. I've got axles sat here with upgraded internals and arb lockers but this is for my towing and work vehicle not an outright rip up the mud play toy. I don't mind the work involved and I don't see I have much expense as I have all the major components here in working order.
  2. Hey guys, I have 2000 Defender 90 TD5. It's the XS model so came with ABS. Over the last year it had developed the infamous 3 amigos. But they didn't all light at once. When you started up ABS and TC remained lit. Then upon using the brakes for the first time after starting, there was little to no braking power. It felt like the brakes were grinding. After letting off the brake and braking again they worked perfectly (without ABS) but the brake warning lamp came on and stayed on. I had the codes read with a Hawkeye Pro and it was throwing everything related to ABS. The mechanic suggested removing ABS entirely and replacing with non-ABS braking system. He specialises in Land Rovers had done it previously to another Defender. So now the jobs all done, braking is perfect, but the 3 lights are constantly illuminated. Reading the codes shows the following: "ECU ground or Reference ground fault" "Front Left sensor electrical failure" Clearing the codes gets rids of the sensor fault but ECU ground fault stays, and the 3 amigos never go out. Has anyone has any similar experiences or idea on where to start looking? I used a multi-meter to test the ground from ECU to -ve terminal and it was fine.
  3. Hi New here and looking for help on what seems to be a past time for land rover owners! i will try not to make it to long winded......but it is, please bare with it. i had the 3 amigos about a year ago shortly after buying the discovery 2 , ignition off and on, it all cleared and that was that. About a month ago i was was getting fed up with a rumbling from the front and decided, time to change the bearings, found out that you cant do that and need the complete hubs, bought 2 and fitted the front right(looking from inside the car). No problems but still rumbling. Changed the front left hub, cured. While i was at it i put new pads in both sides. Now-the embarrassing bit!- i managed to get a pad in back to front! it didnt make any noise at first as i had covered the backs in copper slip but it got really really grindy and grounchy over the next few days! i thought i could make it untill i had some daylight at the weekend but could not stand it anymore so donned the head torch and headed out for a cold dark January night sat in the drive taking the wheel off to find it was in wrong, the disc was grooved and worn as was the pad! Obviously! when i changed the right hand one i also changed the sensor for the one that came with the new hub, however, thinking that i was not getting any problems with any lights i didn't bother changing the one on the left! chucked out the old hubs and one new sensor! WHY! i dont know, but the bin men took it away. It then drove fine,even bracking but got the 3 amigos up. I thought this is obviously where i had the old sensor on the left, so ordered a new one, went to put it on and found that it is different to the right, it goes through the engine bay into the cab under the glove box and was spliced into whatever its spliced into!. I decided that this was way to difficult so broke into the existing sensor wire in the engine bay area as its a lot more accessible. All the lights cleared on start up. Yipee....reversed out of the drive, turned and pulled away and the TC light came on the the brakes came on with some pumping/whiring noise. So, it drives fine in a straight line and no lights on the dash. Turn a left hand corner fine and no lights. Turn a right hand corner/roundabout and the TC light comes back on and the brakes go on stopping the car slowly. Unless i take my foot off the accelerator-then the brakes come off and i can coast into a straight line again. I have been driving around with the R10 fuse out, its fine to drive but lights are on the dash and i have an MOT in 2 weeks! so-everything i have read, people say get the codes read first. I bought an icarsoft930i reader from paddocks.seems pretty good to my untrained eye! The wheels are all at 1.7km when sat still which seems to be right. I have just been and put the fuse back in and plugged the reader straight in, this is what came up... DTC shown shuttle valve switch electrical failure. Pump failure 2 (pump not running when actuated). I clear the DTCs and drive around the block, i get these... manifold pressure circuit fault. logged low. inlet air temp fault.logged low. multiplexpressure curcuit fault. logged low. 1%reference voltage. fault logged low. driver demand fault.logged low ambient pressure circuit. fault logged low I dont think the above 6 have anything to do with my problem but i dont know! probably something for another day! when i try reading abs faults while driving around the block and the TC light comes on there are no DTCs! So, my next thing to try as it is free, is try re-seating the sensor in the hubs maybe without the rubber seal. recheck the hubs and wheels are nice and tight. i have made sure the tyres are the same pressure. i am tempted to start on the shuttle switch and pump failure but unsure what the electrical problem could be unless it is reading codes from when i had the R10 fuse out.. weird that it is only right hand turns! What would you try next????????
  4. I have a 2002 p38 (4.6 HSE). A couple of days ago, I took the car in to replace all brake pads and rotors. They recommended a BG brake flush etc so i said ok. It went in with zero idiot lights illuminated. When I picked the car up they said the the ABS light and Traction control lights are illuminated, (and they still are). I get the ABS and Traction faults in the message center. I left instead of continuing to argue about the reason b/c it was Friday at 1700 and I was late to happy hour etc.. Has anyone ever experienced this issue? I think it has something to do with the brake flush. Yes the car is 15 years old, yes the 3 lights (abs, brake tc) come on very briefly and then off when I would initiate a sudden hard stop. But did a part fail coincidentally when i had this work performed?? Seems like baloney to me. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  5. hello there i have defender 2006 TD5 Two days ago I had a problem on my ABS module it shows me TC/ABS light,so i order a new wabco module same as was mine but now after install the new one it shows ABS/Handbrake lights on, seems like the abs on driving actually works but why it shows me the warning fults? thanks for helping
  6. I have a low mileage ABS front axle that I want to replace the swivel joints on and fit to a non ABS vehicle It seems simplest to me to buy the non abs swivel ball kit and use that but I was wondering if anyone had tried this and found any issues with doing it. I am also wondering if there might be an issue using the ABS CV joint inside the non ABS swivel ball and pins The alternative would be to use the ABS parts and either cut the ABS cable or tie wrap it out of the way Either way I plan on fitting the correct non abs disks and callipers If anyone has any experience in this area I would be grateful for your comments before I buy parts that I shouldn't have
  7. Good evening, Since owning my 1992 2 Door Manual, I have always experienced odd brake pedal behaviour. When I go to touch the pedal, it kicks back at me 80% of the time. I get some minute travel at first, then I feel the hard push back. Usually this is accompanied by harsh initial braking, which can be very jolting in slow traffic. Reapplying the pedal after letting off usually allows me to modulate the braking force better. After the kick back, the pedal is very hard. This also happens with the ignition off. Another symptom of something not being quite right is the ABS pump. When I first got the car I could always hear this pump whirring when I switched the ignition on. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but have since learnt it is the ABS pump. This comes on for about 45s when the ignition is first switched on. If I switch the ignition off for a few seconds and turn it back on again, I can hear the pump going again, but this time for about 3-5 seconds. Something to note is that, with the ignition on, if I press the brake pedal, the pump kicks in again for another few seconds. The ABS pump itself looks newish, it must have been replaced in the past couple of years looking at the condition compared to the rest of the system. I have lived with the car for a few months and had just assumed this was a RRC 'thing', I have no experience to suggest otherwise. The reason for the forum post now is a near miss on a drive to the mountains this weekend gone. The car two in front slammed on the anchors for a pedestrian crossing. I reacted, but the stopping power wasn't as great as I expected and with further pedal force the wheels locked. I narrowly escaped an accident. Thankfully no coffee was spilled. Either way, the lack of ABS worried me somewhat, so now I'm coming to you lot for advice. Any said advice gratefully received. - Richard
  8. Can anyone tell me of any factual legislation that could prevent the removal of ABS & SRS from a vehicle. Lots of hear say on t'internet, nobody can ever link a relevant paragraph or page to substantiate though.
  9. I have a problem with my 2007 TDV8 Vogue. The power steering is heavier than it should be (and compared to my other TDV8 vogue). Had the car a month and issue has been there since I bought it (it was very cheap so couldn't say no). Symptoms: Steering is heavy regardless of engine speed Road speed seems to make no difference (although less noticeable at higher speed due to less steering input required) Very occasionally, the steering will be light after start up but not managed to link it to any other event that would cause it to go light Sometimes when starting, the instrument cluster turns off for a split second and then goes through it's start up procedure when the engine is started. Not sure if this is related Things Tried: New servotronic valve New BCU (or GEM as they are known on the 07MY). Hours of internet forum searching. I understand that on models up to 2007, the servotronic valve was controlled by the BCU and would open and close depending on a speed signal the BCU got from the ABS ECU. However reading the 2007MY workshop manual, the BCU has now been renamed the GEM (general electronics module) and the description of it's function makes no mention of the Servotronic valve. I was hoping to find some wiring diagrams to confirm that. One other 'specialist' said the steering column joints may be stiff, but that doesn't explain why it would go light occasionally. I'm unsure if the quirky instrument cluster is related or not, it could cause a CAN BUS fault, but on the 06MY the speed signal from the ABS ECU to the BCU was hardwired and did not use CANBUS, and the servotronic valve was hardwired to the BCU so cant see that would cause the issue. One person on the web fixed their instrument cluster with a new ignition switch (was only providing 9v output on the switched live during cranking hence the instrument cluster went down, cranking power to the engine was 12.6v). I will check the ignition switch this weekend, but dont hold out hope of that fixing my steering issue. Anyone have any ideas, or come across the issue before? There is a serious drink (or cash alternative) to anyone that comes up with the solution!!!!! Thanks in advance Neil
  10. Got a question for you, why does the abs pump on my disco td5 keep running, will only stop when i disconnect cable from pump. Thanks
  11. ABS problems - I need your help please! I have been restoring a 94 Vogue SE over the last 12 months and have hit a brick wall. All work completed and booked in for MOT and on the way the brakes started sticking on. The garage were stumped, I was stumped. It is certainly not the calipers as they have been rebuilt. It is not the booster unit as I have replaced it with a second hand unit. I have re-bled the system and...... the problem is back. The pump is not running constantly and there are no lights on the dash. Perhaps it is the pressure switch or a valve, all I know is that something is putting the brakes on and it is not me! Any ideas, where can I start (again)...... Thanks all, Chris
  12. BigP

    Brake woes

    Have the 'ABS light won't go out problem'. Also have the problem that the light will go out but, that then causes a BIG scare; Now, the light is normally always on & brakes work well but, occasionally it goes out. When this happens there appears to be no pedal movement & there's a terrible grating noise & 'scratchy' feeling in the pedal & no brakes. If I come off the brake & press it straight away there is normal pedal movement & feeling. I've replaced all 4 callipers, discs & pads & still have the problem. It's bloody frightening when it happens. Any help greatly appreciated. Paul
  13. Does ABS make it worse? I slid for about approximately 300 metres (or yards – if you prefer – approximately!) down our hill this morning on a layer of frost – I have a 110 Puma XS – the ABS was chuntering away but it didn’t seem to slow us up. (But we did go in a stright line) Normally I head for the verge and that slows me up just fine! - today I decided to see how far before I stopped Whilst I’m not a luddite, nor a great believer in old wives tales, I’m starting to wonder if the persistent rumours about ABS are true, and that in slippery conditions (Mud, ice, and snow) the ABS makes things worse! My previous 110 CSWs 300 Tdi and Td5 (Both W/O ABS) seemed to be better? Could this be true? I may have missed something obvious (and not for the first time!) If it were to be true, is there an easy way to turn the ABS on or off? Thanks
  14. Hello all, my 1st post may be a doozy! 1. Two nights in a row as I accelerated hard to get up to speed (80kph) I blew the #4 fuse under the dash apparently for the ABS ??? this killed power to my fuel pump & thusly had my engine loose power & die. I have all wire diagrams & scratch my head as to HOW in the bloody hell the ABS is even connected to the fuel delivery system...??? I can get away with new fuse & slow steady build up to the higher speed but heaven forbid I gun her. ~HELP~ 2. Signal/Hazard flasher relay buzzes when engaged>>??? -Replaced flasher AND Hazard switch but still buzzz. I jumped the hazard switch & the signal lights work but I am at a loss. I am thinking possibly the flasher module is not making a good enough contact in the fuse block? *bought a terminal puller* pull clean & lube maybe in order? Thanks guys any help be great! ~Christian~ 1998 Disco 1 4.0L GEMS
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