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Found 7 results

  1. Morning All, Happy New Year everyone! It's been a while since I posted here, but I am a few weeks in to a '03 TD5 double-cab, so a whole host of new issues to sort out! (an 'upgrade' from the 300Tdi 90). Currently on my mind is the alarm. As far as I can tell, this doesn't work at all. The light flashes about once a second all the time I'm driving, but doesn't come on at all when I lock with the central locking (key doesn't work in the door - another issue!). Also, possibly related, the interior light doesn't come on when the doors open - it's fine on the switch on the light, but not the doors. I've assumed that both of these have been switched off in the ECU for some reason. I'm also assuming that the alarm was switched off because there was some issue with it, but maybe a previous owner had a dog and was getting false triggers? (here's hoping!). I don't get any warning sound if I try to lock with the door open. So, a few questions if anyone can shed some light for me... Can the lights and alarm be switched on/off in the ecu through Nanocom? Does this mean that any toe-rag with a nanocom can break in and simply switch off the alarm and immobiliser? Assuming there was some issue with either the alarm or immobiliser, how hard is it to diagnose and fix such issues - does nanocom tell me why the alarm was triggered so that I can fault-find it? Does anyone know of a group-buy for nanocom atm?! Is there a handy guide to the alarm/immobiliser somewhere? Many thanks everyone, John
  2. 1) Hi, my horn has stoped working. Horn works when supplied with 12v (purple/black) and 12v arrives at Fuse 10 fom the switch (purple/black). Supply lost somewhere between the horn switch/fuse 10 and the horn itself. I can't find the horn on the RAVE wiring diagram for this car but surprisingly the switch is shown on the Engine Immobilisation schematic. It feeds Fuse 10 then the alarm relay (R200). The horn is not shown. Any clues as to how the supply gets to the horn would be appreciated. 2. I have checked the alarm relay and it is fine but not as shown on the schematic. The schematic shows 87A connected to 87 internally, I do not believe this to be correct. I understood that if the relay has 87A it should be a changeover, normally made contact with 30 as the common. My relay doesn't have 87A but has 87B which is a double pole single throw relay with 30 as the common. I have had the vehicle for 14 years and never changed a relay and the horn worked until recently. Can anyone throw any light on this? 3) I checked the alarm function and it flashes the indicators but makes no sound. I do not have a sounder shown as D110 on the schematic but have a battery backed unit shown as D154. I assume this to be faulty. I did (long after having no horn, so unconnected) let the vehicle's battery go flat a few days ago and wondered how long it takes to charge the sounder battery. I not that the manual says it charges from the generator so presumably needs the ignition on to do so. I guess, if that is the case, it is to stop the vehicke battery being discharged by charging the sounder battery. Any info appreciated.
  3. Hi Folks, Hopefully you can help. In the process of sorting out the dashboard on my 1997 Defender 110 - Clearly been played around with before - bundles of screws missing etc... on the dash - fixing this up. Anyway, wondering how the alarm remote antenna should be fitted. Images attached. It almost looks as if the internal keying on the antenna should fit onto something? Possibly the ignition barrel? Thanks in advance, Simon...
  4. It seems that more Land Rovers are being stolen than ever before, bundled off to some remote depot, stripped, containerised and exported. Other instances of them being used for ram raids, ripping ATMs out of alls etc are prevalent. What is the best security to prevent our vehicles being stolen? I understand that despite security devices of various types it only takes about 4 minutes to get in and drive off. Tracking devices are good but expensive (and only of use on motorways where cameras and other measures can detect them) And expensive at £700 or so.
  5. Hi I have posted this in the wanted section as well, but really need to get hold of a bracket and switch for the bonnet alarm on a Defender. It is the one which mounts near to the servo. Can anyone assist? Picture attached Mike
  6. Hi All, Simple question really, what is the consensus on a decent alarm to add to a 90 that already has a few more visible deterrents (clutch claw, steering bar etc.) and other bits and bobs? I am not really looking at more then the £300 mark tops and would rather have something that counts towards the insurance, so Thatcham class 1 I guess? A few people have suggested Toad (and the ai606 especially) with the optional tilt sensor but not a lot else. Does that seem like a good starting point or should I be looking elsewhere? Also heard that the Clifford ones do not suit our trucks all that well. As my truck was quite messed up after a recent attempt to steal it I am inclined to add anything extra that just makes stealing it more awkward (knowing that if they want it they will take it).
  7. Having a bit of a nightmare. I have just unlocked the car, got in a few minutes later and as I went to put the key in the alarm went off. No response from the key fob. The alarm continued for a minute or two, changed its song & then stopped as soon as I put the key in the ignition. It is now completely dead as if there is no battery connected at all. There is history to this. The problem happened last week, called the RAC out who said I had a dead battery in the fob, we changed it, played about for a few minutes trying yhr unlock/lock and suddenly all started working again. Any thoughts please.
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