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Found 5 results

  1. I am replacing nearly all of the brake pipes and hoses on the D2 after corrosion lead to a split pipe and total brake failure a few days ago (that was exciting, but is another story!) During the removal of the old pipes the corrosion was so bad that one pipe broke in two places. At this time I have the new pipes and hoses in position and am about to make the pipe ends and connect it all up. But.... I was talking to a friend who hill-climbs a rather nice mini, and I mentioned the fiddliness of making some of the pipe ends in situ, and he said that he hasn't done that for years since he just runs SS/PTFE hoses the whole way from m/cyl to each wheel now... With the ABS setup on the D2 that would be just 4 hoses, it removes 8 joints from the system (and we all know that joints are the weak point of any system), and it would be generally easier to do. So I have three questions to put to the collective wisdom of LR4x4.com: Would this be an effective system, ie would there be either no change or an improvement in performance and reliability, ease of bleeding, etc, etc.? Would it be legal, MoT worthy and ok with insurers - I am wondering if some people in authority might be happier with a like for like replacement of the system? Are the threads/fittings in the ABS block anything special or would a standard male hose end go in there ok? Thanks in advance Roger
  2. Hi, I am replacing the brake hoses on my D2 with SS braided ones, but can't find any for the body to chassis links under the near-side wheel arch. The problem is the fitting which needs to be like the picture on both ends of each hose... Any advice would be welcomed! Oh, and they need to be about 8" long since I will be doing a body lift soon...
  3. Hi All, Long time listener, first time caller My 1998 Discovery 1 (3.9 V8i) recently failed an MOT due to corrosion on the brake lines (sections from the ABS unit to rear wheels), I've had a bit of a look online and can find some general information on replacing brake lines but not too much specific to Discos... Has anyone done this? How hard is it to do myself? I would say I'm generally able to use tools and know the right end of a spanner, previously replaced things like pads, rotors, oil, filters, etc. but haven't really ventured any further upstream in the braking system. If not what kinda price would you expect from a garage to do this, got a quote of £400 from the MOT place but would be interested to hear what others have paid for this in the past. I'm selling the car too so would like to avoid spending lots on it if possible but obviously want it to be safe and in decent condition. I read that they come with steel brake lines but when replacing it makes sense to go with copper for anti corrosion reasons and ease of fitting, is this sensible? TL;DR - Advice on replacing corroded brake lines please. Many thanks, Dan
  4. Evening all. Vehicle in question is a '79 Series 3, 88". After an interesting moment today when I realised that I had very little in the way of braking force at all on the near side front wheel, I pulled over and had a quick peek at the inside of the wheel. It seems that the EP90 in the swivel has somehow made its way into the brake drum. From the drawings in the manual, I can only see one seal - a 'double lipped seal' part number RTC3510. Is this is only one that could be leaking? Are there any others I should order before I strip the whole lot down? Bearings and swivels are both good. Thanks!
  5. Since my servo has started leaking I've ordered a new one (type 80), but also out of idle curiosity splashed the extra £8 on a repair kit (AEU2741), which doesn't look like it contains an awful lot, but if it gets me a spare servo sat on the shelf for £8 I'll give it a go. However, I can't see any instructions on how to use it, my RAVE manual is too new to include it, so has anyone ever actually used one and got any info on what's involved?
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