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Found 8 results

  1. Anyone dealt with brake failure on a 2015 defender? Saw that there was a recall of some of them in Australia.
  2. I’m in the shake down stages of a rebuild and rechassis of a 1985 Ninety. It now has a 300tdi and an auto box from a 1996 Disco. All new servo, master cylinder, brake lines, calipers, discs, and pads fitted. The system bleed was straightforward and the brakes work perfectly at startup. However after 30 minutes or so of leisurely driving on farm tracks with minimal use of the brakes, all 4 discs start to bind and the brake pedal becomes solid. To the point where it will not even coast. Leave it to cool off and all returns to normal again. Is this a known issue? Thoughts / commen
  3. Having rebuilt my 1989 CSW it is now time to get an MOT It is now a solid 200tdi with disc brakes all round. I have rebuilt the brake system with a disc braked rear axle, rebuilt callipers all round, new pipes and flexi hoses. The pedal box, servo and master cylinder are form a 300tdi vehicle, and were bought as a complete second hand unit from a breakers. Upon test driving the vehicle I was shocked at how poorly the brakes performed, and after some reading on here I found the usual crack in the front of the servo. I fitted a new TRW servo for a 300tdi defender
  4. Hi, I've recently been driving a new (2010) 130 which is lovely compared to my rattly One Ten but the brakes are odd and I'm looking for advice. The servo works fine and it brakes really well with a firm pedal (not as firm as mine but I have just replaced the brake system very recently except servo and pump) but if you brake to a stop and keep your foot pressing on the pedal, it slowly drops all the way to the floor. It is slow and not a sudden drop but it does sink all the way. Both their same aged vehicles do exactly the same. Their garage have checked it over, checked for leaks,
  5. Very odd problem. For weeks I have been chasing a problem around to fix my sticking and binding brakes. Everything is new. And I’ve swapped out master cylinders and flex pipes etc again with more new kit. The pedal has plenty of free play. The wheel cylinders return no problem, and springs are all correctly orientated, etc...But just noticed that once the pressure builds up, if I yank up on the brake pedal with my foot or hand the pressure releases!!!! You can hear it release. What the hell could be the cause of this? What’s the fix? series 3 lightweight dual circuit brakes 1975
  6. Hi there,I am new in the forum. I just bought a Land Rover Defender 110 Puma 2008. Thanks in advance for the support.It has an issue that it goes slightly to the left when I break. I have taken the wheels off and assessed the brakes / disc brakes, finding the following:Front brakes:Left:pad left: 10mmdisc brake: 7mm & 7mmpad right: 10mmregular wear along both pads, they seem fairly new (new 12 - 12.7mm)disc has slight depression of circa 1mmRight:pad left:9mmdisc brake: 8mm left, 6.5-7mm rightpad right: 8.5-9mmregular wear along each pad, but disc seems slightly more worn on right / outer
  7. Hey guys, I have 2000 Defender 90 TD5. It's the XS model so came with ABS. Over the last year it had developed the infamous 3 amigos. But they didn't all light at once. When you started up ABS and TC remained lit. Then upon using the brakes for the first time after starting, there was little to no braking power. It felt like the brakes were grinding. After letting off the brake and braking again they worked perfectly (without ABS) but the brake warning lamp came on and stayed on. I had the codes read with a Hawkeye Pro and it was throwing everything related to ABS. The me
  8. Hello, over the weekend I bled the brakes on my 110 which has disks at the front and drums on the rear. On Monday evening I set off and tested the brakes before leaving the drive - they were nice and sharp responding crisply to pressure on the pedal. However after using them a few times they have reverted to being a little 'squidgy' . While not as bad as before they are not as good as when I first tried them. The bleeding was done with a Gunsson brake bleed kit and fresh off the shelf unopened DOT4 fluid. (I drained all the old fluid out. ) Can anyone enlighten me as to why the
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