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Found 25 results

  1. Having rebuilt my 1989 CSW it is now time to get an MOT It is now a solid 200tdi with disc brakes all round. I have rebuilt the brake system with a disc braked rear axle, rebuilt callipers all round, new pipes and flexi hoses. The pedal box, servo and master cylinder are form a 300tdi vehicle, and were bought as a complete second hand unit from a breakers. Upon test driving the vehicle I was shocked at how poorly the brakes performed, and after some reading on here I found the usual crack in the front of the servo. I fitted a new TRW servo for a 300tdi defender (LR013488) this looks identical to the old one, however when fitted it simply would not cause the brake pedal to sink under pressure when the engine was started. I spent several hours messing around with this, it did seem to hold a vacuum, but I just could not get the pedal to sink when the engine was started. I eventually removed the new servo and refitted my old cracked unit with some tape over the crack to seal it up, when tested this seemed to work as it should, the pedal sank when the engine was started, and upon test driving the vehicle the brakes felt fine. (The rest of the system remained unchanged during this test, I simply swapped the new servo for my old unit) I concluded that the new servo must be faulty, and the vendor although shocked that someone had a bad TRW unit agreed to accept it back for a refund. I purchased another replacement TRW unit but upon fitting it behaves the same as the one I returned. It holds a vacuum fine. When driven, the brakes are excellent, probably the best Land Rover brakes I have ever had, the servo clearly works. HOWEVER if you hold the Brake pedal down and start the engine the pedal does not drop. (I am pressing the pedal a few time prior to starting empty the vacuum) I believe this to be an MOT failure? I am at my wits end with this the brakes are excellent now, I simply can not get the pedal to sink when it is held down while the engine is started. I have tried a second vacuum pump.and also a second new non return valve, purely out of desperation. I have tested the vacuum from the pump by putting my thumb over the end of the pipe, and it seems to suck very well. With the old (bodged with tape) servo re-fitted every thing works as expected. Is this an MOT failure? Does any one have any ideas as to what the problem could be? My set up looks the same as the one pictured here Is it possible that I have purchased and fitted the wrong servo? I only have the breakers word that my pedal box / master cylinder was from a 300TDI. The new servo looks to be the same size and shape as the one I removed. I am at my wits end with this now and any input would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Hippo
  2. Hi, I've recently been driving a new (2010) 130 which is lovely compared to my rattly One Ten but the brakes are odd and I'm looking for advice. The servo works fine and it brakes really well with a firm pedal (not as firm as mine but I have just replaced the brake system very recently except servo and pump) but if you brake to a stop and keep your foot pressing on the pedal, it slowly drops all the way to the floor. It is slow and not a sudden drop but it does sink all the way. Both their same aged vehicles do exactly the same. Their garage have checked it over, checked for leaks, checked brake fluid and checked the master cylinder for leaks (not sure how they did that) and then asked one of their "Ford time serviced mechanics" who said that its a transit engine and components, and that transits do exactly the same and release brake pressure after stopping and "they all do that". As anyone who has seen my previous posts on this forum knows, I'm no expert but this doesn't make sense to me.
  3. Very odd problem. For weeks I have been chasing a problem around to fix my sticking and binding brakes. Everything is new. And I’ve swapped out master cylinders and flex pipes etc again with more new kit. The pedal has plenty of free play. The wheel cylinders return no problem, and springs are all correctly orientated, etc...But just noticed that once the pressure builds up, if I yank up on the brake pedal with my foot or hand the pressure releases!!!! You can hear it release. What the hell could be the cause of this? What’s the fix? series 3 lightweight dual circuit brakes 1975
  4. Hi there,I am new in the forum. I just bought a Land Rover Defender 110 Puma 2008. Thanks in advance for the support.It has an issue that it goes slightly to the left when I break. I have taken the wheels off and assessed the brakes / disc brakes, finding the following:Front brakes:Left:pad left: 10mmdisc brake: 7mm & 7mmpad right: 10mmregular wear along both pads, they seem fairly new (new 12 - 12.7mm)disc has slight depression of circa 1mmRight:pad left:9mmdisc brake: 8mm left, 6.5-7mm rightpad right: 8.5-9mmregular wear along each pad, but disc seems slightly more worn on right / outer side.disc also has slight depression of circa 1mmNOTE: See photos attached, for the left and right wheel.According to the manual, the disc breaks should be around 24 mm (they now are around 21-22mm) and the new break pads should be around 12.7mm (only needing to be replaced when they are 3mm).Any advice on what could be causing the issue and whether I should replace the break pads and/or disc breaks? If so, what manufacturer would you recommend, where could I buy the parts in Cape Town and what price should I expect?Thanks,Javier
  5. Hey guys, I have 2000 Defender 90 TD5. It's the XS model so came with ABS. Over the last year it had developed the infamous 3 amigos. But they didn't all light at once. When you started up ABS and TC remained lit. Then upon using the brakes for the first time after starting, there was little to no braking power. It felt like the brakes were grinding. After letting off the brake and braking again they worked perfectly (without ABS) but the brake warning lamp came on and stayed on. I had the codes read with a Hawkeye Pro and it was throwing everything related to ABS. The mechanic suggested removing ABS entirely and replacing with non-ABS braking system. He specialises in Land Rovers had done it previously to another Defender. So now the jobs all done, braking is perfect, but the 3 lights are constantly illuminated. Reading the codes shows the following: "ECU ground or Reference ground fault" "Front Left sensor electrical failure" Clearing the codes gets rids of the sensor fault but ECU ground fault stays, and the 3 amigos never go out. Has anyone has any similar experiences or idea on where to start looking? I used a multi-meter to test the ground from ECU to -ve terminal and it was fine.
  6. Hello, over the weekend I bled the brakes on my 110 which has disks at the front and drums on the rear. On Monday evening I set off and tested the brakes before leaving the drive - they were nice and sharp responding crisply to pressure on the pedal. However after using them a few times they have reverted to being a little 'squidgy' . While not as bad as before they are not as good as when I first tried them. The bleeding was done with a Gunsson brake bleed kit and fresh off the shelf unopened DOT4 fluid. (I drained all the old fluid out. ) Can anyone enlighten me as to why the brakes go softer? Do I need to re-bleed or just leave the bleeding things alone and be thankful I have something that works a little better than a rusty ship anchor to slow me down? ;-) regards, Richard
  7. I've had a quick search on the forum but can't really find the answer I'm looking for so here goes, I'm rebuilding a Salisbury rear axle with disk brakes to replace my drum braked unit with a broken diff, in your opinions yay or nay to the brake disks guards some people I speak to says yes others say no . Thought this might be a worthy forum topic.
  8. Hi all, im sure this has been covered but i cant find the answer im looking for. My 02 td5 90 brake lights have stopped working. The tail light parts work when the lights are turned on but when i press the brake pedal they dont brighten up as the should the just go off altogether. If i dont have the lights on and brake nothing happens. So bulbs look fine, fuse fine. So would it be the brake switch? I cant seem to licate the switch, does anyone have a photo to help me find it? Or is there a relay for the brake lights? Many thanks in advance Joe
  9. Hi, Can anyone offer advice on fitting 110 calipers and discs on the front axle of my 1989 Defender 90. Happy to keep the drums on the rear but would like a little sharper braking. Do I need to also change out the brake servo and master cylinder for 110 items. If so what are the part numbers. Last question, do new calipers come with stainless steel pistons. Thanks in advance for any replies. Sean
  10. Hi, I've got a G reg One Ten CSW and the brake warning light comes on under heavy braking and I can't work out why. I recently had to remove a caliper to replace a wheel bolt and my fluid dropped lower than I would have liked. I don't think it got down to below minimum but it could have done as I can't remember now. I bled all of the brakes but I am still getting the warning light coming on under heavy braking (and even staying on sometimes unless I dab the pedal). The fluid is topped up and not dropping so no leaks I've bled all the brakes again. No bubbles and fresh fluid coming out at all four corners. The pedal is pretty firm, certainly firmer than before this process Rear drums were replaced about 3 months ago and front pads are pretty new What should I be checking next? thanks. Heds
  11. Hi, Just bought a new Defender 90 and absolutely love it. The only problem I have are the brakes... Does have or know about the brakes developed by Bowler and Alcon and are they any good? Cheers
  12. Hi All, I realise there are a few different threads about Disc brake conversions however I'm struggling to find out the answer to a fairly simple question... What is the issue of a straight part swap? And what machining is required to make them fit? For some context, I have a 69 SIIa LR Cheers
  13. Good evening, Since owning my 1992 2 Door Manual, I have always experienced odd brake pedal behaviour. When I go to touch the pedal, it kicks back at me 80% of the time. I get some minute travel at first, then I feel the hard push back. Usually this is accompanied by harsh initial braking, which can be very jolting in slow traffic. Reapplying the pedal after letting off usually allows me to modulate the braking force better. After the kick back, the pedal is very hard. This also happens with the ignition off. Another symptom of something not being quite right is the ABS pump. When I first got the car I could always hear this pump whirring when I switched the ignition on. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but have since learnt it is the ABS pump. This comes on for about 45s when the ignition is first switched on. If I switch the ignition off for a few seconds and turn it back on again, I can hear the pump going again, but this time for about 3-5 seconds. Something to note is that, with the ignition on, if I press the brake pedal, the pump kicks in again for another few seconds. The ABS pump itself looks newish, it must have been replaced in the past couple of years looking at the condition compared to the rest of the system. I have lived with the car for a few months and had just assumed this was a RRC 'thing', I have no experience to suggest otherwise. The reason for the forum post now is a near miss on a drive to the mountains this weekend gone. The car two in front slammed on the anchors for a pedestrian crossing. I reacted, but the stopping power wasn't as great as I expected and with further pedal force the wheels locked. I narrowly escaped an accident. Thankfully no coffee was spilled. Either way, the lack of ABS worried me somewhat, so now I'm coming to you lot for advice. Any said advice gratefully received. - Richard
  14. Evening all I have a 1984/85 range rover classic 4door non abs. Ive renewed the majority of brake pipes and stripped the calipers to renew dust seals and clean everything up. I've rebuilt everything back onto the car and I'm into trying to bleed the system now. I have filled the master cylinder left all the bleed nipples open to see if gravity took its course which it did to the front calipers but not the back. I took the pipes back off again and followed the fluid to see where I was getting it to and I managed to get it rights to the rear off side caliper but only just dribbling out the pipe. I have stripped the master cylinder and everything seemed fine. It's as though the master cylinder isn't pushing enough fluid out through the system. Does any one have any ideas what could be wrong or what else I could try? I don't want to go out and buy a new master cylinder if it isn't that. Thanks in advance.
  15. A while back I replaced the front discs on my Td5 130 with Paddocks own and the pads with Mintex. Since then I have put up a terrible squealing whilst braking. I have tried the mintex grease for the backs of the pads and copper grease - great for a few miles only. It concerned me that the mintex pads came with no backing or retaining clips (the originals were worn). The paddocks discs now need replacing - any advice on how to avoid the same problem again ?
  16. I have been researching brake upgrades as my car will have 300+ bhp I've narrowed down a couple of options ie 6 pot calipers from Tarox and AP which offer defender systems will these fit without issues? Any alternate suggestions?
  17. Problem with the brakes today, first time on the road in almost 6months and an hour long ride to the RDW Keuringcentrum in Elsloo to get my papers stamped and the starter turning on getting the yellow plates on. Trouble is, the brakes stick on, not like a seized caliper, but I have to hook the pedal up with which ever foot is free to stop braking, whats gone wrong? I would like to get that sorted before I actually get plates on it as all I'll wanna do is drive once we can go again.
  18. Hi, I am a new member to this forum. I have bought a 1959 series 2a SWB Landrover with a hardtop and 2.25 petrol engine. It is an ex RAF vehicle. It has been badly "restored", if you can actually use that word to describe the state of it. The steering has a bit of back-lash in the steering box, but it is still drive-able. The issue I have with it is the brakes. The are very poor. They are not servo assisted and pull to the left slightly. I really have to lean on the brake pedal to get it to stop. It is as agricultural as my 1970's International Harvester tractor. Are there any upgrades that are possible with the brakes to improve them? I would like to at least fit some form of brake servo. Is it possible to retro-fit any brake servo from another Landrover? It has freewheel hubs and I would like to keep it as original as possible, but I would fit a servo on the brakes if it can be done without any major surgery. I would like to do it so it is "un-doable" if I ever wanted to restore it to it's original condition for a 1959 vehicle. Any ideas? Thanks in advance... Cheers, Rob
  19. Strange request but does anybody have a list of individual brake pipe lengths for a '93 Classic without ABS....? I bet someone has made a record ...especially if as geeky as me
  20. Afternoon Guys Recent MOT failure on my 1989 2.5TD 19J 90 CSW, owned for four years, did ALOT of work for first MOT (but nothing on brakes). Sorted everything else other than the excess brake pedal travel. Just about to bleed the brakes as I believe this is the problem, some months ago my warning light came on and I "topped" up the brake fluid which had emptied the cylinder (thus assuming air has now got in!!). Question comes in two parts. 1. Had a quick look at bleed nipples which have different sized bleed nuts - assume previous owner has only replaced 1 side at a time. What size nut is on the "newer" replacements? 2. Bought a e-zee bleed one way kit, but doesn't fit over one of the nipples - is this just because this is the old one is that old that they are not used anymore? Cheers Alan
  21. ABS problems - I need your help please! I have been restoring a 94 Vogue SE over the last 12 months and have hit a brick wall. All work completed and booked in for MOT and on the way the brakes started sticking on. The garage were stumped, I was stumped. It is certainly not the calipers as they have been rebuilt. It is not the booster unit as I have replaced it with a second hand unit. I have re-bled the system and...... the problem is back. The pump is not running constantly and there are no lights on the dash. Perhaps it is the pressure switch or a valve, all I know is that something is putting the brakes on and it is not me! Any ideas, where can I start (again)...... Thanks all, Chris
  22. Help/ideas please with an odd problem. 93 200TDi, non-abs The rear brakes are wearing unevenly, the inside pads are nearly worn to the metal, outside pads hardly used. The pads are only 6 months old, maybe 6K KM. On the last change this was only happening on one side, so I put it down to a pad jamming and gave the caliper a good clean up. Mintex pads fitted. This time both sides are doing the same thing. I swapped the "slim" pad over, and got someone to press the pedal; both pistons moved fine and both pads gripped the disc. Pistons push back easily. The inside of the discs are nice and clean, outside getting a bit pitted, I guess from lack of use. I am loath to replace the calipers as all seems to move. But OTOH the outside pads are not being made to do any work, as evidenced by the disc surfaces. Any ideas of what to check before I take the expensive route?
  23. Righty ho, i finally started on my rear disc conversion. This is going to be a slow build as time is becoming difficult to manage. So as a start, i will have to have a disclaimer, i am doing this on my vehicle, i am in no way responsable for some spanner monkey who wants to do the same, and or injur himself while making or testing the parts. these are brakes we are mentioning here! Remember. To start off i did not want to stay without a landy so the first step was to find a doner axle, so i can take my time and do it right. The plan is to build and refurbish the axle complete with brakes and then swap it over to the landy. I managed to lay my hands (free) on 1 semi stripped salisbury axle a few years ago from a good freind, for another project (home made difflock), it was a bare with missing shafts and brakes and just 1 hub. This was stripped down further to see if it was usable. It had fried pinion bearings so i put it all aside and looked for another. About a year ago another axle was aquired (free again) complete. So i did the same a set to dismantle it, the first bad sign was creamy oil! Upon further inspection (cover off) the whole gear set is scrap (rusty), so are the main bearings and 1 pinion bearing. The axle was left with water contaminated oil for quite a long time. So again this one seems to be going to the scrap man. So i will revert back to my first axle and change the pinion bearings, as the gear set is fine plus i have the modified cross shaft for the experimental homemade difflock to go with it. I will use the shafts from the scrap axle. Now to the build, once again i will be using parts from the land rover parts bin. I will be using late stub axles (same bearings) so i can fit the front 90/110 hubs. I started mocking up the parts i have to see what need to be fitted and/or modified. So i stuck the stub axle on, then the 110 rear caliper bracket, then the 90/110 fron hubs, then drive flange and shaft, it all seems to fit. I still need the caliper to confirm the exact spacing i need for the bracket or the hat hieght of the disc. Hopefully i will get the calipers some time soon. Initial observations are that the bracket need slight grinding, and so does the axle tube. For the rest it looks like it will work. I have a lot of painting and cleaning to do to all the bits that will go on this axle. At this point its a pile of rusty parts. A couple of weeks later i finally managed to get all the parts to have the assembly mocked up. Parts list as follows 90 rear calipers, 110 stub axles, 110/90 front hubs, front discs, 110 caliper brackets. From various trial and errors in trying to assemble the the whole lot, i tried using 90/disco rear discs but that involved trimming the brackets down by 3mm. I did not like the idea so i went to front disks (or 110 rears). The problem with this is that again the brackets will not line up with the discs so i have to make a 5mm spacer between the bracket and axle tube. Pictures will make this simpler to understand. Calipers Brackets Stub axle and bracket Washers being used as spacers for mock up. Front hub on a 110 rear stub axle Caliper in place This the thickness i need and the spacer cut in cardboard as a template Rendering in sketch up Next steps are to have every thing cleaned up and refurbed, painted, and new seals and discs installed. Here are couple of pics of the slight diff shave, thought it was worth attacking it with the grinder! I guess thats it for now. G
  24. Hi there, I have a 1997 300 TDi which requires a N/S Front caliper. I have found 3 types to buy but i'm unsure as to which ones i should buy. The choices are as most of you will probably know : 1. Allmakes 2. Britpart 3. Bearmach. After trawling the net i think Bearmach might be the ones to go for, but i'd rather ask those in the know.
  25. Hi all, while rebuilding my front hubs I want to do an upgrade from single to vented discs, I got the vented disc kit from paddocks and also the calipers RTC6776/7 for vented discs but the bolt holes on the calipers are too small for the mounting bolts. Is the wrong caliper set? Is it ok to drill the holes out? Anyone else done this? It's a D1 1994 300tdi Dave
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