Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'chassis'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum


There are no results to display.


  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 10 results

  1. Hi, I am replacing the brake hoses on my D2 with SS braided ones, but can't find any for the body to chassis links under the near-side wheel arch. The problem is the fitting which needs to be like the picture on both ends of each hose... Any advice would be welcomed! Oh, and they need to be about 8" long since I will be doing a body lift soon...
  2. Been practicing welding vertical lap joint, 3mm new stuff to ?mm chassis. After a few pigeon poo runs i managed this. I think it's ok but please, advice and guidance is welcomed. The image is correctly orientated ie the chassis section was stood on end. Upside-down next... <shudder>
  3. Hi, I am rebuilding a 1988 2.5TD and I have replaced the chassis with one from an abandoned project. The new chassis had engine mounting brackets in a different place, so I welded new brackets in where I thought they should go and the engine and gearbox fitted perfectly. Or so I thought! Everything was fine until I tried to put the steering pump in and I found that it fouled the new bracket. The 2.5TD engine block has two parallel sets of engine mount holes and my engine mounting bracket is in the front one. I now have a horrible suspicion that I should have welded the left side bracket further back and used the rear set of holes in the block. At the moment the slots in the brackets are the same distance back from the spring centres in they line up. My question is should they be slightly staggered. Thanks Tony.
  4. I want to replace the outriggers for the frond end of the springs on my SIII 109 (1980). Is it adviced to: - remove roof and sides first and thereafter lift the tub - remove roof sides and tub as one piece (or maybe just lift the whole bunch and leave it well above the chassis on a frame) other approaches welcome, same for instructions and hints on the wires / bolts that are often overlooked.
  5. I'm going to swap my '88 LR 90 chassis with a new galvanized one - just wondering what other parts/pieces/bolts/clips you recommend I get before undertaking the project? I'd like to do the complete swap in one weekend and don't want to waste time with multiple trips to the parts store.
  6. Bit of a daft sounding question, but is it ok to support a defender on axle stands below the axle? I know the clue is in the name, but on some vehicles it is not recommended as it can bend the axle tube.
  7. Hi, I am looking at a landy where the owner says the he replaced the chassis with a galvanised one in 2007. It does not look shiny like a galv chassis to me and is there rust in the second pic? Any help gratefully received...
  8. Does anyone have experience with hot zinc spraying? I was talking to a bloke who does it today and he was quoting me about £150 for shot blasting and spraying a chassis. I'm seriously tempted with the Lightweight chassis, it makes sense, especially when doing a second hand chassis, as you can ask the guy to preserve the chassis number and preserve the ID, which is important in some parts of the world. I know I'll have to waxoil the inside, but the sacrificial action of the zinc reduces the chance of rust by a lot anyway. It is also less likely to distort bulkheads and door frames, and the like, and it can be painted straight-away. Looking it up it is used on oil rigs, road and rail bridges and is a good alternative to hot-dip galvanising.
  9. Hello. I am going to paint my underside with Upol Zinc 182 Any idea how much i will need to paint an 88 chassis in it?
  10. Hello all: So far I have asked a few questions - so I thought it was about time I did something to contribute. I have a 90 with a failing rear cross member and rear chassis rails. I have patched it through the last few MOT's. This year looking it over in advance of MOT time revealed a big problem. The rear of the chassis rails has rotted through where it joins the rear Cross member - on both rails!. I did see if I stood a chance of patching it again - however it would have been the height of bodgery to do so..! I looked at the usual 'rear cross member with extensions' route and decided they didn't have enough meat to be sure I would have clean strong metal to weld to. So I have lashed out on a rear quarter Chassis. The item in question came approx a week after I ordered it - made for me specifcally in 3mm plate. So far I have: removed wheels, springs, exhaust rear section, Cut off the old chassis rear section - after making sure I didn't cut off too much ! Picture of the old rear chassis section, & webs that had rotted Next steps - paint /protect new chassis section - clean up old chassis rails - weld up new part to existing rails - refit all left over parts.. Piece of cake ( I will let you know ) - working on weekends only so far..
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy