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Found 30 results

  1. A friend has just bought a single seat hill-climb car and (luckily) decided to strip it before driving it... There are multiple bodges (asymmetric rear suspension due to putting the tie rods on different sides of the upright for example) but this one I just had to photograph... it's the clutch cable:
  2. Hello all, My LR after running for a while in highway lost clutch pressure, and difficult or even impossible to engage/disengage any gear. This issue is making me crazy for a while, because, both master, slave cylinder and even the circuit are all new. This malfunction appears after running for a while, but in normal roads it doesn't happen. After some time and after pumping the clutch it eventually works again. ALL points to air/leak in the hydraulic circuit but it was redone for the 2nd time already... Any idea?
  3. Hi guys Looking to replace the clutch in a 200tdi asked a few people on the easiest way to repair it, I am wondering if it is best to take out the engine or to drop back the gearbox?
  4. Good evening, I’ve recently been doing a bit of work on my Range Rover. Lower steering column, pads and rotors, clutch master and slave... I drove to work in the rain for a test drive, everything seemed fine. I fired her up and drove home, nothing to report, apart from when parking up in the garage... After reversing in, I started to smell burning. I hurried in, switched off and opened the bonnet. I could see two spots glowing red around the new slave cylinder. Has anyone experience this before? I was hypothesising that I had installed the heat shield mat slightly off and it was touching the cat. The whole setup seems flawed by design, with the slave being that close to the slave, it made the change a right PITA, as none of the bolts was visible. Awful picture sorry, hard to see the glowing. Any tips? Is the heat shielding doing more harm then good? Any help appreciated, - Richard
  5. So I thought I had got to the point in my slow rebuild process where I was ready to drive it out of the garage for the first time under its own steam. I pressed the clutch, it felt normal. Tried to put it into gear, the clutch wouldn't disengage. Bled the clutch again, exactly the same. Checked the slave cylinder (new maybe 10k miles ago), that move fine with no leaks. As far as I am aware, since I have owned it, my Defender has never had the little clip to hold the slave push rod onto the release fork (FRC3327, I just ordered one) so I thought maybe the push rod was missing the 'hole' in the fork. I smeared it in red rubber grease, tried it again and it has transferred grease it into the hole in the fork but there is no red trail elsewhere. So I have taken the gearbox off. Flywheel had some surface rust, it hasn't moved since I fitted the clutch maybe 2 years ago(!). On removing the pressure plate, the friction plate was stuck to the flywheel so I thought I might have found the problem, but then a gentle tap freed it off. I did notice evidence that the release bearing has touched the 'fingers' on the pressure plate. I don't want to put the gearbox back in until the little clip has arrived so in the meantime have I missed anything really obvious? It has had a new AP clutch, new HD release fork and also a new master cylinder and pedal assembly (my old pedal was the old type which wouldn't accept the assist spring). Whatever length the push rod in the slave cylinder is, it is the one which used to operate this car's clutch fine. I am assuming the new master cylinder pushes the same amount of fluid as the old one? (new one is from a Puma, old one is probably the original NA Diesel one). I don't want to have to put the old one back on to find it makes no difference! The Defender is a 300Tdi with R380. Thanks!
  6. A friend has recently bought a 2002 TD5 90 and he asked me to have a go in it today to see what I thought. All seemed lovely, except I noticed the clutch felt heavy versus mine (300tdi) and the gearchange rather vague (I'm assuming the latter is the bush at the base of the gearstick being worn). I thought that maybe the clutch return spring had broken, as I have had that happen twice (the new 'clothes peg' type). However to my surprise, when I looked the clutch pedal had a coil return spring which was fine, but that accounted for at least some of the extra clutch effort needed. I understood maybe incorrectly the clothes peg spring was the latest condition, and had been in use since the 300tdi, hence how come he has a coil? The parts references I looked at suggested that was the case. I know LR would have used whatever handy if short of what they should have used, but looking through the forum eg linky it looks like he is not alone. Has anybody any ideas whether this is intentional, ie there is a sound engineering reason for regressing or just supply problems maybe? It would probably get changed at some point if there was no good reason not to. Nigel
  7. When in normal mode my 2.2 2012 Freelander 2 judders when I get to around 30, 40 and 50 mph. It lasts 4 to 5 seconds. When in sports mode it doesn't seen to do it, which makes me think its something to do with the transmission control module. I towed a caravan with it and it made no difference to the problem. Its done 65,000 miles and FSH, I've only had it two weeks. Has anybody had similar problems? Thanks, Greg.
  8. Hi all, I have a Defender 91" 200tdi and recently the clutch pedal has started to feel soft and the biting point has dropped. On one occasion it was very hard to change gears. The clutch is about 2yrs old heavy duty ( last time it went it was the bearing/ pivot ball I think). Pedal has always been slightly soft for the first inch, but now is noticeable softer till about an inch or two off the bottom. No leaks or noticeable drop in fluid in the reservoir. I thought it might just need the pedal to be adjusted which I've done but still no luck. Any suggestions? Cheers, Ben
  9. Hi Everyone New to LR ownership but recently bought a 1987 90, with a 200 tdi and a few issues! Most pressing of these is the clutch, was getting hard to get into gear and then would not go into gear at all with engine running. Goes through gears fine with engine off. Clutch pedal very slack with almost no bite at all but no signs of leaking. After reading a lot on here I replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder and bled but that made no difference, so now decided that next step is probably to replace the clutch, or at least get in there to have a look. im a pretty amateur mechanic but having read the walk throughs feel alright about doing it myself. The issue I have is that I don't have an engine hoist or funds to buy one at the moment. My question is, how possible is it to do without one, and if it's very hard does anyone anywhere near oxford have one that they might consider lending/renting out for a weekend (hopefully won't take me longer than that)? Thanks Jake
  10. Hi guys, New user and first post. My father-in-law has a defender 90 (2.5L 1996) that has an issue, was hoping you guys could help point us in the right direction Was driving the defender and he lost the clutch, he had a pedal but couldn't get any drive. So you put your foot down on the pedal and select a gear then when you start to lift it make a grinding / rattle noise. Get no movement at all. With the engine off you can cycle through and select every gear. We have tried it in high and low box. Diff locked and diff unlocked. Still can't get any movement. We suspected the slave cylinder, so took that off and all is well, re-assembled and reverse bled the system. Still have a clutch pedal but the problem persists. Jacked up all four corners to see if we could get any movement in any gear. Wheels don't move at all. Has anyone come across anything like this before? We don't know if its gearbox related or clutch related, was hoping for some feedback so we know where to check next! Any help would be appreciated, we don't mind doing any of the work we just need to know where to start. Cheers
  11. Good afternoon, I am a newbie to the forum and also to Land Rover defenders, I have not had much experience with trucks either. I have just bought myself a 2007 (57 reg) defender 110 pickup single cab, to tow my vintage tractor. After a few days of use I noticed that gear selection at junctions became hard and virtually impossible to select any gear. Playing around with how I used the clutch I found that depressing the peddle half way down I could select the appropriate gear however depressing the peddle fully would result in hard selection of any gear. Once in gear if the clutch was depressed fully with the brake off the vehicle would start to creep forward (or reverse if selected). When coming to a junction pressing the clutch peddle fully down and coasting (I know one shouldn't coast) up to the junction will result in a squealing sound coming from the clutch, lifting the peddle half way will stop the noise. This only happens when the vehicle has done a few miles. From cold the clutch/gear selection appears to be normal with the peddle fully depressed. I do not sit with my foot on the clutch always removing it and placing it on the floor. I have done a quick search of the forum but can't find this problem listed. The 110 has a puma engine and has done 26,000 miles. Any ideas that I can take with me to the garage next week?
  12. My wife's 2003 TD4 Freelander Mk 1 has given us many years of happiness until now. 1st thing in the morning trying to get 1st or reverse is nigh on impossible unless put in gear before starting up. The pedal is very low. Once warmed up gear changes are a little better but not brilliant. I believe the clutch hydraulics are a sealed system. Clutch shows no sign of slipping. Gearbox oil level has been checked and seemed over full as once the level plug had been removed plenty of oil came out. Car was level so thought that a little strange. Clutch pedal does not fill spongy but there is no pressure until pedal is nearly touching floor. My Question is Can the clutch system be bleed if so how as if sealed how do we top up fluid. Do you think this could be the problem or has any other member had a similar experience. You advice and help would be gratefully received. Many Thanks MartinT
  13. I've enjoyed playing around with a cheap Series 2a over the last year or so but it has to go to help pay for a costly 110 rebuild. I have found a buyer but he wanted me to fix the clutch. Fair enough, except I am now stumped! Can anyone help? The issue is that the clutch depresses smoothly (if a little heavily but I believe that is due to the way the non-standard Holden motor was fitted) but, when you release it, the pedal returns immediately (courtesy of its own spring) but the clutch takes up over several seconds. It means manoeuvring or taking off requires patience and gear changes require planning. There is no slipping, no bad noise or any other issue. Just the very slow uptake. I have stripped and honed both master and slave cylinders as sticky pistons are not unusual for a Land Rover that is sometimes submerged but that made no difference. I am convinced that the problem is in the master cylinder. This is because, with the floor out and spanner at the ready, it is possible to push the clutch in, then loosen the bleeder while the lever returns. As soon as I do that, the clutch lever from the bell housing instantly returns, while fluid sprays out of the bleeder. Clearly there is some sort of hydraulic damping going on but I am quite baffled. The master cylinder does have an odd valve assembly in it, though I can't see how it could be fitted wrongly and it seems free to move. I don't really want to fork out for new bits until I know for sure I need them and what the problem is. Any help would be hugely appreciated! Strangely, I have got so used to it being like this, as did the previous owner, that I feel a bit indignant the buyer can't just learn to live with it...
  14. Been 200kms on the new clutch but tonight I managed to slap it into 3rd not 1st and when booting it off the roundabout it slipped like a slippery thing on a slippery surface, an instant "Doh" moment and a drop into second got us on our way. But what went wrong? Any special procedures for bedding the clutch in? Never had this before so looking for ideas here.....
  15. Ok new heavy duty clutch, clutch fork, rod etc etc on 09/08/2006 8-12 month ago new clutch pedal, master and slave clutch cylinders but she not even done 1000 miles (slave was a Lockheed, Lucas master) The clutch pedal would engage the clutch about half way down Leave home she drives ok with in a few mile I notice when I put my foot down she starts to slip and not pull away with hard acceleration Keep driving and the slip is still there if I accelerate gently she bits and pulls if I accelerate hard she slips. Mainly in first gear Within 5 mile the slipping gets far worse in all gears until I've vitally no pull at all 20-30 mph max teasing her along I go to turn round and my clutch pedal hits the floor and stays there . I pick up my clutch pedal and try again nothing at all. The master cylinder is empty and I had clutch fluid out my bell housing hole. Now had the seals on the slave cylinder failed or had I pushed the piston out by lifting the clutch and depressing it again. When the slave was removed the piston was out now I may of pulled it out when removing the slave I don't know. Ok two days of messing about trying to get the push rod in and that horrid plastic clip in but eventually its mended with a completely new slave cylinder not a seal kit. I pick it up from my friend who spent a day getting the clip in for me and drive about a mile with every thing being fine....I did notice the clutch pedal had to be depressed a lot lower to engage the clutch about 3-4 inches from the floor. After a mile or so all was ok and I put my stereo on when I reached home 6 miles later I turned of the stereo and noticed I would push the clutch pedal down and half way down a sort of rubbing grinding sound ....push the pedal flat to the floor and that would go ...there may of be a slight squeak when the pedal was flat. Let the pedal up and the same sound , With the engine just running no horrid sounds. An hour later I decide to do a test drive. every time a change gear and use the pedal I get the noise mentioned. 400 meter odd from home the pedal goes flat to the floor again. I get home on the drive. I look in the master cylinder and its full look under the bell housing and no fluid. I then try the pedal and then fluid out the bell housing. All the time now the engine is running I have a sequel sound. Just to add the first time the cylinder failed and with the engine running was no horrid sounds So any ideas any one ???
  16. HELP needed please. I've just converted a N/A 110 to a 300tdi with R380 box and fitted new clutch kit, release bearing, fork, push rod together with master and slave cylinders. The problem is that although the hydraulics are bled OK and the clutch feels fine, when you press the clutch you can't engage gear. Turning the engine off, selecting gear and restarting the engine works and the with the clutch pressed the car will stay put with a light pressure on the brake. Driving it gearchanges are OK but when you stop you can't get it out of gear.... I've rebled the system, checked the adjustment of the master cyl push rod and even tried a spacer in the slave cyl to increase travel all to no avail..... Has anybody got any ideas as what little hair I've got left is going fast!! Bob
  17. just to say my 1998 freelander 1 all repaired with clutch slave kit plastic one new,also new clutch release bearing and clutch and finger assembly. all lovely now clutch use to pull vigorously as if oil on but clutch springs fell out 118000 miles neede changing at 80.000 should help.... my slave was pants at 118.000 amazing to last that long my clutch was in pices with only a few bits left at 118,000 miles how it got there is amazing. release bearing worn and rattling at 118000 so had new one fitted ,all cool now if you cant get in gear its clutch,release brg or slave cylinder........if it ratchets in and out of mesh and wont go in gear,take to garage and have all the above fitted for a new car feel,felt like brand new out the showroom. well happy
  18. I have a really strange problem that has completely baffled me and am hoping somone can shed some light on it, I have a military series 3 ffr about a year back i done a 200di conversion which is great, anyway to the problem, I drove up to north yorkshire for christmas a 260 mile trip spent a week exploring with no problems, halfway home pulled into the service station to give us and the landy a bit of a rest and found i couldn't select 1st or 2nd gear, i had a quick check nothing seemed out of place so as we was on the motorway the whole way home decided to carry on home, no strange noises or any other problems apart from selecting 1st and 2nd. Got home and found one of the gearbox mounts had split right through and the other was looking a bit tierd. No problem i thought i replaced the mounts hoping it would solve the problem which as far as selecting the gears it did. Now for the strange part, when i reverse, as soon as i dip the clutch the landy stops sharp as if i had pulled up on the hand brake, if there is drive from the engine it's fine it only does it when i dip the clutch, it's fine in neutral and all forward gears. i adjusted the hand brake all the way off just incase it was something to do with that but it has made no difference. if anyone has any idea what could cause this i would be eternally grateful for any help. cheers John
  19. Hi I just picked up a 1998 WOLF and whilst test driving it i had no problems with the clutch although it did seem a bit 2 stage (from floor to half way did nothing, then it strung into action)......i checked the clutch fluid and it was full but very darl brown so god knows how long that had been in there. anyway, on my drive back and when i got in to traffic i found that it started getting stuck on the floor when i used it and i had to put my toe under it to spring it back up.....not easy! I've now changed the fluid and its much better and doesn't have any 2 stage feeling any more, but it does feel like it still wants to get stuck, albeit not as much Any thoughts?
  20. I have a 2004 TD5 Defender that I've owned for about a year and it's now done 105,000km. 1 previous lady owner who used it until 85k as a shopping trolley around town. Ever since owning it 2nd,3rd and reverse have been a bit 'notchy'. Double de clutching and slowing the gear changing makes it ok but I can't make a really swift gettaway from the lights (even if it is a Defender!). I haven't owned a TD5 before so don't know what the 'normal' gear shift is like. Anyhow I noticed a bit of slip every now and again a few months back so took advantage of a trip to UK to get a replacement clutch and cover kit (Valeo). Since then the slipping has got more noticeable...so am 'nursing it' at present...not too bad for now. Doing some reading up and I see the dual mass flywheel seems to come in a replacement kit. Now that is getting pricey...especially from down here in NZ. So my questions please to the Landy world.... 1.Is the 'notchy' gear change a feature of (a) worn synchro rings, (b) clutch wear or © both!? 2.Is it the norm to replace the dual mass flywheel with clutch replacement and/or is it a case of 'whilst you have the box out you may as well replace it'? If not how do I know when it is worn and needs replacing? Many thanks!!!
  21. Suggestions Please on:[for raudiduncan, split from another topic post] Clutch kit (paddock britpart @ £50) Shockers (seen brit part springs and shockers for £200 on john craddock) Also I need some wings! cheers Duncan
  22. Oakmaster

    No Clutch

    I followed the advice gained here, Fitted a BIG battery, and after a lot of cranking - She fired-up. Whoop Whoop ! celebration was short lived - next problem is the clutch wont work -I have no clutch at all, She has been standing for 6 months, was fine before that. Any advice welcome. thanks
  23. A tale of woe with a (so far) happy ending. While on holiday in the Lake District last weekend, the clutch started to slip in 4th gear, after we had been parked up for the day in Grizedale. ( no slipping from the site to Grizedale ) I changed down to third and kept the revs down to get back to the site. Left the 110 parked up the next day as wanted to try to limp home on the Monday towing the tin tent. The following morning, the problem was still there, but no worse with 1.6 tonne on the back. Drove home at 50mph in 4th gear on the motorway, with no slipping. When close to home, changed up to fifth and floored it up to 60 mph - no slipping! Had a conversation with the guru at Overlandrs, and he suggested rather than a clutch, to try replacing the hydraulic hose to the slave cylinder, as hydraulics seem to cause the most problems on older vehicles. Lo and behold, the hose that was on had a very sharp turn out of the slave, and when draining the fluid, it appeard to be very thin and watery looking. Since changing the hose, I have not had any problems with the clutch slipping, but ave only driven about 50 miles so far. I am guessing that there was sone water in the fluid, and combined with a partial obstruction, the colder temperatures in the Lakes turned the fluid to slush which was slow to come back out of the slave. Certainly worth spending a couple of quid on a hose rather than taking the engine out! Mike
  24. Hoping that someone might be able to shed some light on this. Sorry its a bit long. We had to get a new Clutch sorted out and also the steering was a bit loose, so took it into a 4x4 specialist who has done work on the car previously. He changed the Clutch, tightened up the steering, and I drove it round the block just to make sure that it appeared to be running OK, which it was. Drove home that night and the next day we set off on our trip, which was 4,000 kilometers in 5 days. Car drove at normal velocity, 110km per hour, no vibration, no problems etc. After about 800 kilometers we blew a tyre, rear driver side, so we changed for the spare and tried to get the original one repaired, but it was a goner, balloon type bulge from the inside out. We managed to get a used spare just to make sure we were covered and off we went. When we parked up at night, it was the first time that we had driven slow or, in a tight circle, and we were getting tyre screech at less than 10 km per hour, which I put down to the type of tarmac. We continued on the rest of the way, and apart from a little bit of a noisy clutch change there was nothing too untoward. We stopped at a tyre centre with the intent of buying two new tyres, and mentioned about the screechy tyres, but they could not see any problems, and perhaps it was a little bit of an allignment problem, although there was no vibration, and we should get it alligned once we had completed our journey. They did not have our tyre size. On the way back, another tyre blew, this time the rear passenger side, and we were forced into using the used spare, so that we could drive the 5 kilometers to the nearest town. It became apparent that the tyre screech was now a lot worse, so we drove at about 20 kilometers per hour, just to get to the nearest town and buy new tyres. We did not arrive, big bang, and after looking under the car we saw that the oil was pouring out of the rear Diff, caused by a piece of metal that had speared its way through the casing from the inside out, which appears to be a broken Differential Cross Shaft. Later when I looked, I noticed that the Differential Lever was in forward position, Diff position, but the car had been driving normally, at normal speeds, and I remembered the mechanic telling his guy to take the car out of Diff as he was pulling out of the yard so that I could test drive it. And it drove normally, and I had no need to either check the lever or alter it. So can someone please tell me what the hell happened, I am assuming that they did something wrong when they put the new clutch in, because the Diff lever is positioned wrong, but as I said it was driving at normal speeds, not with a Diff engaged. On reading up later I noticed about squeaky tyres, blown tires etc on other 4 x 4 vehicles so have just put it all together, but I have to go back to this mechanic and see what happened, and would prefer to know what it could be. Any help would be appreciated.
  25. Hello everybody, I have a 54 Defender and wanted to run this one past you as I'm quite inexperienced. I was towing my father in laws old Mazda pickup up the yard ( slight incline) and three times as I took up the slack my Landy stalled no matter what revs I gave it. Revs died and engine stalled. As soon as it needed to make an effort it just died! I resorted to switching to low range which did the job but not too convincingly. Wasn't a huge weight to tow. I should be able to tow 2 ton of cattle trailer with this thing!! Could this be a problem with the clutch - haven't noticed any obvious slipping but does occasionally it gives a little "bump bump bump/ judder" when pulling away in first. Feels like it couldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding...... Thanks a lot for your help - I'm learning slowly but surely!
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