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Found 12 results

  1. Hi, I am replacing the brake hoses on my D2 with SS braided ones, but can't find any for the body to chassis links under the near-side wheel arch. The problem is the fitting which needs to be like the picture on both ends of each hose... Any advice would be welcomed! Oh, and they need to be about 8" long since I will be doing a body lift soon...
  2. Anyone on here got a D2 with difflock, more specifically the cable selected difflock? I'm after a VIN number for parts hunting purposes for my merc conversion in the 90. Thanks in advance!
  3. I currently have a petrol 2000 Discovery 2 in Los Angeles, California. It has 110,000 miles and has been a hard worker these past 17 years! Running exceptionally all these years! Without having any expert knowledge, I have managed to maintain with standard services as recommended by Atlanta British (coolant hoses, 02 sensors, etc etc.) which has saved me thousands over taking it to a shop. The head gaskets have never been replaced and the vehicle has run great this entire time. Just recently I am noticing a loss of oil and coolant without any obvious external leaking. A car of this age is known to start needing many things replaced. The cost of the head gaskets is just one part, as while you have it taken apart it is recommended to replace hoses, gaskets, and a myriad of other things— not to mention the potential of engine failure even after this work has been completed. Having a vehicle for this long has really made it part of the family and I can't really face the reality of getting rid of it. I really really want to keep this Disco, but I am afraid I can't afford doing the head gaskets if it means I could still very likely have very expensive problems with the engine in the coming months / years. Most people in the forums recommend a complete rebuild if you do not want any surprises down the road. Robinson Service Blog Estimates a proper rebuild to be $12,000 http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2013/10/should-you-rebuild-or-replace-your-land.html My current budget maximum is not much, only $4,000— which is making me think I just keep driving it topping off oil/coolant until the bitter end. I would love any thoughts and recommendations! Thanks
  4. D2s have rear radius arms and a "Watts linkage", is it possible to get rid of the watts for a panhard rod or go back to an "A" frame and ball joint on a D2 rear axle? Has anyone got rid of the pesky watts for something that lasts?
  5. I want/need to remove the rear seats in my D2 but the release cable wires have rusted off and I can't lift the seats to access the Torx bolts (which I'll have to grind/cut off anyway as they're also well rusted in!). Does anyone have pics of the rearseat locking mechanism, or indeed any advice? Cheers, DT
  6. Hello folks, Just a thought of mine but would it be possible to make a chip/Micro-controller to replace the engine ECU that allows an older engine to be installed in a Disco 2 Td5 but still retain all the features that makes the D2 so lovely What I am proposing is a plug in chip to replace the engine ECU with the following features: Can read a crank sensor on the new engine. Can read the oil pressure switch. Can read the temperature sensor. Puts out a 12v feed for the stop solenoid. Controls an electric actuator on the fuel pump for throttle control (no changes to interior or pedal box and retains cruise control function). Basically meaning the all the D2 ECUs are happy and the car drives like a normal D2 with fully functioning gauges etc but has a Veggie oil friendly simple engine under the hood and lets the auto work correctly. So id like to open up a discussion on this idea... what does the engine ecu need to tell the rest of the car? Is this feasible technically? Over to you
  7. First things first, this will be a fairly slow moving project, women, holidays and life seems to absorb my money at the moment! A little while ago i purchased a RRC of RangeyRover on these forums, and i started a small thread in the members section http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78270&hl= Following that, my girlfriend started talking about loads of crazy expensive ideas, so i figured Im probably not going to get another chances anytime soon to build a challenge truck. My initial plans were to build a truck like Chris Abels range rover but with the plan to fit Discovery 2 axles with a homebrew/cheap four link system. I tossed some ideas about and the RRC body really doesnt lend itself to being a competitive challenge truck with the sport at the current level. So off came the RRC body. I decided when your running a v8, you've GOT to have Megasquirt... right? So I built a board Now, Ive got a chassis, axles, engine, and EFI set up. What else do you need? ROLL CAGE! I purchased a roll cage with outriggers (not in photo) from Tornado Motorsport, and what a terribly nice bloke Dave is! Hopefully I shall find time soon to get the cage and out riggers welded up, engine plonked in and axles/suspension set up in the next few weeks. I will be aiming for a 110inch wheelbase, to help fit 40inch rubber in. My ambition is to enter KOV and similar events in 2014. But possibly with a 4.6 or a diesel engine with some cheeky modifications. DirtyDiesel doesnt live to far away from me, so he can expect to have his brains thouroughly picked on engine choice. Axle-wise, The D2 axles wont last too long i dont think. Looking at finding something strong and proven. maybe even Dana...
  8. I'm looking for a new headlight/sidelight/indicator assembly, which incorporates a motor for adjusting the headlight angle which is a non-servicable item it seems, for a Discovery 2 TD5. Searching on the internet I have come across several makes of product and a number of suppliers. Apart from Land Rover branded product, I've seen reference to Britpart, Allmakes, Bearmach - the last three products being considerably lower cost than the first. Bearing in mind that I am after a light assembly, I would be most grateful for objective comments on how good these lower cost products are likely to be in comparison with the 'genuine' article. Any and all help would be gratefully received. Thank you.
  9. I'm looking at tyres for my newly aquired D2. It has 16inch alloys , so perhaps opens the field up to more than the 18inch would allow. It has 255/65/16 Scorpion S/T on it at the moment. On the 110, i run BFG ATs and i love them - a good all round tyre, well behaved on the road, dont have to worry about the ice and snow in the winter, or the odd muddy lane or field and also massive mileages out of a set. So i was considering the same for the D2, but is this overkill and should i be looking at something more road biased? The D2 will spend most of its time on the road, but i want something that is also sufficient to do the winter months without changing them and the odd lane/field (no hardcore off roading). Do the General Grabber ATs offer a better alternative (i've seen some that recomend them) without such a hit on the fuel economy as the BFG, or should i be going even more road biased. I hate making this decision as its a lot of money and time running on them if i get it wrong as i'll feel i have to stick with what i decide on until they need changing!
  10. Hey has anyone tried WCD105900 - non-cat downpipe for the D2 Thor V8 engine? My down pipe has sheared and the cats are blowing, so the rules as they are here mean that I can replace with a non-cat pipe. Not many places seem to sell it and wondered if anyone had any experience at all?
  11. Hi Just got a Discovery 2 2000 model most things are ok but have a major leak of fluid from the Electric Valve on the offside of the car below the Drivers seat.. has anyone seen a issue like this or any idea what could be wrong? I am hoping to keep the air on the car due to be used 90% on the road but 10% will be offroad as I am a marshall for Challenge South West events. Any Advice most welcome thanks in advance
  12. Anybody know the type of bulb used? T5, T10, 595, etc? Could do with replacing a few, so I can see which buttons to press, and how much fuel is in the tank.
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