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Found 141 results

  1. I am hoping to pick the brains of you defender wiring gurus out there. I have a 1991 110 that has been converted from 200TDI to 300 TDI, and am replacing the wiring looms when i come across this brown with red tracer wire from the main loom into the engine bay. Can anyone tell me what its for please? I have studied the wiring diagrams and cant seem to find said wire anywhere .
  2. Hi , I'm trying to find the nylon insert that fits in a square hole in the dash pinnacle ( and breaks it ) that the Hot and Cold/ Windscreen or Footwell controls cover fixes to ? Thanks Angus
  3. Hello All Brief Introduction - I was stationed in the UK from 2015-2019 and while there picked up my dream car. A USA importable defender 110. I love these cars as they don’t punish you (too badly) when working on them if you make a mistake. Needless to say ownerships has been everything I wanted and more. Now the bad part: Getting things fixed on these things is incredibly expensive unless you do it yourself. I know I know Captain Obvious right? So the Problem I am having is ATF is seeping down the front of my transfer case - its not the LT230 oil - its red and it tastes different. The transmission is a rebuilt Ashcroft with less than a 1000km on it so I am pretty sure the gearing and seals on the transmission are ok as for the T-Box I cant speak to that. I have combed the tech archive and haven’t found anything about this problem - then again I may not know exactly what I am looking for either. Any help you all can give will be much appreciated Thanks Again Santino
  4. Hi Fittingc a 200 tdi defender turbo to my 1988 90 , its got a discovery 200 tdi engine convertion, and want to fit the correct defender turbo. I have the turbo and exhaust and inlet manifold , but it looks like I need to move the altenator and power steering pump some ??. Has any one got image of the correct brackets etc I need to look for. Thanks Nick
  5. Hi all, My mates 2004 td5 defender has had a major electrical failure. His dipbeam, rear demister, dials/speedo etc, electric windows and air con have all suddenly died. We have checked fuses and relays and they are all good. Does anyone know if these are connected or what I could check next? Thanks for all your advice!
  6. I need some help. I have a pre-02 rear door on my Td5. I want to upgrade it to have heated rear glass and wash wipe. It doesn’t have a precut hole for the wiper so I’m looking for a template or exact measurements please
  7. With JVC having launched a mech-less double din head unit and the reviews being quite good, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and see if we couldn't make it fit into the 90.... Pull the dash apart to reveal dust from various parts of Europe.... Then set to some hacking.... The insert section was always a poor fit, so I decided to use some clear Gorilla Glue I had in the cupboard to bond it in... One edge sat proud so clamped overnight.... Some filling and hacking later..... I decided to fill the recess to sit the unit on the surface of the dash, mainly because I couldn't figure out how to make a recessed landing point to match the original.... The insert was still quite proud so that needed leveling with the DA sander. Quite a few fills and hacks later, using my favorite tool..... Time to key the paint and get a cover of colour back onto the panel... Problem..... Gorilla Glue reacted with the paint.... So.. Leave it all to dry, hack out the bad stuff and decide the only course of action is to fill the gap with the bad glue... While that was drying, a few wires to sort in the truck and a quick test run.... Then back in for some more sanding..... And a little while later after general 1000 grit smoothing... More paint... It's not perfect, but a few more coats on from this picture most of the little pits have been filled and it's looking ok. I plan to leave it to cure for a few days now and get the compressed air into the dash area, clean out some dust and add more lightness....
  8. Hi, I’m Wanting to get into the off-roading scene but don’t know what to do. I know that I want a defender but don’t know which model, I’d prefer it to be a Diesel engine and would be putting money into it to modify suspension and other things.(could do with help on that aswell😂) I want something that I can drive nice and smooth on the road as a daily but be able to go anywhere anytime I want all whilst still having enough space for one or more passengers(seats in the back) Any information/ help I get would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  9. Hi Hello I am new to this forum. Apologies if I am duplicating a thread. I did a search but could not find an answer. My 2003 defender has all round LED lights. I live in the countryside and it gets very dark because there no street lighting. The standard headlights are like candles and therefore useless. The LED lights are really good you can be seen and you can see things running into the road. Problem is the MOT inspector said he could not pass it unless I put the old ones back in. He did not explain the actual problem it is just the rules! So I am in a ludicrous situation where I need to swap headlights for inferior ones to get it through a test which is apparently there to make sure the car is safe. Problem is until I put the LED ones back in I can’t see where I am going. Given the number of after market LED lights available I assume this has been overcome by some. Anyone know what is going on and if you can put LED lights in a defender without falling foul of the bureaucracy that seems to be contradicting itself. I have found some that say they are ok for MOT but are not CE - which mine are. Thanks for you help
  10. Hi Folks, Had to remove the heater duct from my 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi to help route some cables over the wheel arch. That's another story for another thread. Looking to put back on now but have a few questions. Couple of images below to help. 1. Noticed that there is a rubber gasket/seal that goes around the inside of the flange end of the white spacer tube (Part 11). The rubber seal does not seem to be listed as a separate part. It has gone brittle on little pieces have come off. Can this part be sourced? 2. The spacer tube can move freely back and forth between the heater intake duct (Part 14) and the seal to the blower heater (Part 12). Is the intention that the space tuber is simply left pushed towards the heater and its seal. Many Thanks, Simon...
  11. Hi there, New to this forum so be gentle! I’m looking for some advice about my 04 Defender 90 Td5 - I get a metallic scraping scratching noise at about 30mph when I’m setting off - seems to be coming from left hand side fwd wheel but can’t place any closer than that! I’ve checked for rubbing on the wheel, and had a root around behind it but have yet to see any cause. My next thought is whether the wheel bearing is worn which I’m going to check this weekend when I’ve got time (hopefully!) but was wondering if anyone out there has had a similar problem or knows what else it could be? Thanks!
  12. Hi, I've recently been driving a new (2010) 130 which is lovely compared to my rattly One Ten but the brakes are odd and I'm looking for advice. The servo works fine and it brakes really well with a firm pedal (not as firm as mine but I have just replaced the brake system very recently except servo and pump) but if you brake to a stop and keep your foot pressing on the pedal, it slowly drops all the way to the floor. It is slow and not a sudden drop but it does sink all the way. Both their same aged vehicles do exactly the same. Their garage have checked it over, checked for leaks, checked brake fluid and checked the master cylinder for leaks (not sure how they did that) and then asked one of their "Ford time serviced mechanics" who said that its a transit engine and components, and that transits do exactly the same and release brake pressure after stopping and "they all do that". As anyone who has seen my previous posts on this forum knows, I'm no expert but this doesn't make sense to me.
  13. How far should the clutch pushrod protrude from the bellhousing/ slave cylinder joint face if all is well with clutch plate, release bearing and fork is the question, here's the history... 1986 ex MOD 90 FFR (FFS!) 12Jnad, I recently (about 1000 km) replaced the clutch, release bearing, master and slave cylinders, mostly with the mid-price 'OE suppliers' parts from Rimmer bros. Clutch felt/worked fine on re-assembly, if with a little more freeplay than I expected. It failed today, freeplay progressivly increasing until it wouldn't dis-engage, pedal to the floor. I have found no leaks in either the master or slave or the line, clutch fluid at reasonable level although black, which leads me to suspect seals in the master. However, on taking off the slave and pumping the clutch the slave piston moves seemingly normally. The clutch pushrod seems to be still attached to the fork and protrudes from the slave mating surface by about 12mm (half an inch in LR speak!). I'd like to know if that is normal, so allowing me to concentrate on the hydraulics, rather than diving into the clutch, not my favourite way of spending a saturday night. This is my first post on here so big thanks in advance for any help you can give me, the Landie is my only form of transport up here in the Sabine hills north of Rome, I get to go 'off road' every day, just to get the milk, and beer, so this is urgent...!🍻
  14. I have located the following online https://www.landroverworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2007/C0073 Where do these cables run from the harness back to the battery box? I assume they are the ones coming in the centre of the vehicle side?
  15. Can anyone tell me the part number of the retaining sleeve circled in red? They come in plastic or metal. Thanks
  16. I have new rock sisters from bearmach and cannot see how they are supposed to fit to the 110. anyone got any tips?
  17. I need to access and inspect the diff lock lever as it keeps popping out. Ive seen some people mention the best way is to remove the internal transmission tunnel and get to it from the top. Anyone got any photos or hints on how to do this in a 09 defender?
  18. Good day. Anyone knows which brand of soft top is used on cool and vintage defender please.
  19. May be a stupid question but is there a measurement so you can tell if your vehicle is fitted with standard wheel arch’s or plus 2’s for example? I need to replace one on my defender but want to make sure they are just standard ones cheers
  20. Hi all, my names Adam, Im a keen metal Detectorist, motorcyclist, and camper. Tomorrow (16.5.18) im going to look at a LR Defender 110 TD5 Country - Expedition Spec It will be my first ever Land Rover - and I know nothing about them, apart from they good off roaders which will be great for my camping and metal detecting. Here are the specs - Any pointers very welcome. 12 MONTHS MOT + 6 MONTHS WARRANTY* 2001 X LAND ROVER DEFENDER 110 2.5TD5 COUNTY SPEC UTILITY 5 SEATER, REBUILT & PREPARED IN 2016 WITH £££'s SPENT ON NEW PARTS INCLUDING GALVANISED CHASSIS, 16" BOOST ALLOY WHEELS FITTED WITH DISCOVERER COOPER AT TYRES, Four wheel-drive, Blue, FULL LENGTH ROOF RACK WITH REAR LADDER, UPGRADED HEADLIGHTS & SIDE LIGHTS, DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM, FRONT BUMPER, LIGHT GUARDS, OLD MAN EMU SUSPENSION, ELECTRICAL POINTS & MUCH MORE, the garage is looking for just shy of 13k - Is that about right? I have also printed a list of things to check from LRO.com I look forward to hearing from you all soon. Kind regards Adam
  21. Hi all, I am looking to replace either the barrel or whole lock assembly on my defender rear door but am having problems sourcing the correct part.
  22. Defender 90 (2002) TD5 - Really struggling to refit fuel tank and tank guard. Any tips greatly appreciated. There's just so little space to work in. Got the tank located but getting the guard into position seems impossible. Struggled for ages to get the front located over the chassis carriers but it all fell out went i tried to edge it forward to get the cross member studs in place. Big hammers, jacks, blocks of wood ...... should it really be this difficult? Thanks, Jim
  23. Hi Folks,Problem with the immobiliser on my Defender TD5 99'.Fitted new front LED spotlights yesterday. Disconnected battery using correct procedure. Disconnected old lights and wired in new lights. Reconnected battery before bolting new lights into place to check all was ok. Lights all working - no problems.Disconnected battery again using correct procedure and finished bolting lights into place. Checked connections one last time and all secure. Reconnected battery again.This time small blue light started flashing on top of the dash panel and when trying to start siren goes off and engine immobilised. Removed negative terminal and siren stops. When I reconnect the negative terminal there is no alarm only when I try to start engine.I've tried searching on the internet and these forums but it's a bit of mine field. Can any one explain to me what exactly is going on?Thanks in advance.Sam
  24. Hi everyone hope you can help me with this. From what I can work out the cooling system froze up in the cold weather we've had. It did have anti freeze in it but obviously not enough or something. Now water pours out as of a hole above the drain point for the cooling system as fast as I can pour it in, hopefully the pictures will make it a bit clearer. If anyone can let me know what this could be and how bad it possibly is, I'm worried that it's pretty bad at the minute and then engines coming out. thanks
  25. Hey guys, I have 2000 Defender 90 TD5. It's the XS model so came with ABS. Over the last year it had developed the infamous 3 amigos. But they didn't all light at once. When you started up ABS and TC remained lit. Then upon using the brakes for the first time after starting, there was little to no braking power. It felt like the brakes were grinding. After letting off the brake and braking again they worked perfectly (without ABS) but the brake warning lamp came on and stayed on. I had the codes read with a Hawkeye Pro and it was throwing everything related to ABS. The mechanic suggested removing ABS entirely and replacing with non-ABS braking system. He specialises in Land Rovers had done it previously to another Defender. So now the jobs all done, braking is perfect, but the 3 lights are constantly illuminated. Reading the codes shows the following: "ECU ground or Reference ground fault" "Front Left sensor electrical failure" Clearing the codes gets rids of the sensor fault but ECU ground fault stays, and the 3 amigos never go out. Has anyone has any similar experiences or idea on where to start looking? I used a multi-meter to test the ground from ECU to -ve terminal and it was fine.
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