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Found 12 results

  1. Hi guys! Hippo needs rescue. Please help! Freelander 2004, TD4, manual. 93k. I keep getting the same code P1190- Fuel Rail Pressure Plausibility. Car starts limping usually in second and third gear around 2k revs +/- I tried many things already, cleared the code, but so far it keeps coming back when I go for a ride..... UNLESS I disconnect the fuel rail pressure sensor. Without the sensor connected the car doesn't limp anymore. Code comes with MAF disconnected for example. Injectors are fine. I do get live readings of 350+Kpa for LP and 26k+ at idle for HP pump, which
  2. About to undertake a coolant bleed on. Freelander 2, diesel 2.2 ‘09. The workshop manual at step 13(or 14) lists a step as “connect exhaust extraction hose’ as a step towards reconnecting everything back. But don’t see this as being disconnected in the previous steps. Any ideas what this is or if needs doing is appreciated. Also (although the right step) is it necessary to disconnect the radiator hose to flush the radiator or (a lazy ass) coolant bleed to replace the coolant will do the job? I’ve only ever topped the (current) coolant with the coolant mix.
  3. Truck A is a xmod 90 2.5 na diesel (87) fitted with a Sedimenter along with the fuel filter, this works quite well seems. truck B is a 110 PU with a 200tdi (84) only a fuel filter , a project. the 90 has same size fuel lines to & from filters fuel tank., the 110 has smaller return line to fuel tank,. Is this normal for the two engines or is spec different for xmod? planning to add a Sedimenter to 110 & was wondering about the difference 2.5na & 200tdi engine parameters.
  4. Hi, My name is Dirk, I live in Belgium, in Sint-Niklaas and recently bought a 1979? diesel series 3 Station Wagon (chassis 93933397C). I'm the 3rd owner. It only ran for 6,5 years, from mid 1980 until beginning of 1987 and sat for 30 years. The previous owner had started out on a thourough renovation but stopped after having removed the wheels, suspension, axels, seatbox , front floor, radiator and waterpump. I sort of stumbled over it and now me and my sons will give it a try. My engine number seems a bit odd. Anybody has a clue? Apart from that, I have many more questions to ask sin
  5. Just home from meeting up with some fellow enthusiasts whome I met at Budel. Three new friends all running series Land Rovers, one thing in common, all run a different engine than LR made them with, two of the three petrol and one diesel. Jos has a series 3 ligh. Iight weight with a rover 2ltr turbo petrol engine. Eric with a swb series 3 pick up with a Ford Essex V6 2.9 injection. Marlon with a series 2a lwb running a 200Di (less the turbo). I really liked the petrol powered trucks but the diesel engined lwb was just too loud for me!!! We talked a lot about the trend in the UK to stick
  6. My first post to the forum, I'm a Brit living in Norway. 2007 FL2 HSE, Diesel, Auto, 100k Kms Advice please - The other morning I was pulling out from a T-junction when the engine cut out, the 'Reduced Power' warning came on (like it used to when the DPF needed cleaning) the engine cut out completely & it wouldn't start again, though the it turns over fine. The fuel tank is a third full after being filled last week. There was no mechanical noise or rattle & no stutter from the engine, it just cut out. The local LR dealer has removed the high pressure pump & says he can see inside
  7. In an effort to try to get everything working I am now tackling the electrical stuff that is under the bonnet, I say stuff as some of this is additional add on's and not fitted by me so therefore I don't know if it works or whether it is wired up correctly (a lot of previous repairs and work done on this truck is of questionable standard). This is a pic of the filter housing and the wires to the fuel pre-heater. I am not really interested on how it is wired up currently but how it "should" be wired up. Should it work in common with the glow plug relay? Should it have a timer relay of it'
  8. The question is, will the engine run OK under road conditions, when the only fuel return is from the spill rail to the top of the fuel filter? At the moment the normal return to the tank is blocked, as the tank it goes to is removed for repair. The background is: I'm currently trying to make roadworthy an ex military 109" with twin underseat tanks, where a PO has changed the 2.25 Petrol to a 2.25 Diesel. The RH tank is leaky, and out of the vehicle for repair. The PO fitted just one fuel return, to this tank, and I've currently blocked it off. Using fuel in the LH tank, I have successful
  9. Quick question. Is it possible to tee the leak off (return line) from Inj pump into the filter, to be circulated back into pump, without going to tank first? Or would lift pump pressure / return pressures fight against each other? Cheers
  10. Hi All, I was just wondering, are Land Rovers stopped to see if they have Red Diesel more than other cars? Are there similar dye based restrictions in Europe? Thanks, Mike
  11. Hi guys, I am looking at buying a 90 and have seen one in great condition, but it is a petrol and I have heard that this may not be great for towing horses and actually moving at any great speed. Please could you all have a look at the link and let me know your thoughts? http://www.walton-motors.co.uk/land-rover-defender-90-25-petrol-station-wagon-only-97000-in-cranliegh-surrey-2372894 Chassis great, interior great. Test drive - it moved (sorry, not an expert) Cheers, Ross
  12. I hope i'm not violating some rule, if so, please take into consideration i'm new at this site... I'm looking to convert my 94 Defender which has seen many miles and much abuse into a 300 TDI (wouldn't turn my nose up at a 200, but they seem to be harder to find in good shape) Diesel Defender. Mostly for the offroad torque and of course the mileage wouldn't hurt either, as Fuel (both Petrol and Diesel) are about US $5 / gallon here. I hear its even worse in the UK, you have my sympathy. ANyway, i've looked over this site and a few others, but mostly this site. I am currently a displaced Amer
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