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Found 17 results

  1. Hi, In the world of diff locks there are some names that build great reputation. Kam is solid brand but the typical solution was costly thanks to the retrofitting required to install their locker. Now; maybe some time ago, I just notice a few days ago; they were able to solve that problem presenting the Drop in Locker. Anyone installed this solution? What is your opinion about this locker? Thanks
  2. HELP pleeeeese !!! I have a 1991 200Tdi 110 Defender, and while on visit during April I bought a new centre portion for my front diff in South Africa. I live in Madagascar. I sailed back and started the dismantling of the old and to my horror found out that I have the 10 spline side shaft diff and the new one is 24 spline. No way I can hop back quickly and replace . . . so what do I do now? Can I use the 2 old side shaft gears in the new one (there are 2 spider gears and the 2 gears on the side shafts – page 410 No 2 in parts catalogue) OR can I buy 2 new 24 spline side shafts and replace my old 10 spline side shafts with them? OR am I stuck???? Any help will be well appreciated. My nearest LR dealer is 1000km’s away. Dries
  3. Afternoon, I have just replaced my rear brake discs and repacked the bearings which were replaced 3 months ago. The hubs spin freely and easily. The job was relatively straight forward and I thought I was home dry. Until... I reinstalled the halfshaft on the RHS, and gasketed and sealed the drive flange. When I went for a final test spin of the hub I could hear/feel a rumble/dg dg dg dg dg noise. I initially thought this was the wheel bearings, so I removed the drive flange again and spun the hub, all ok. I then spun the halfshaft independently, and the noise was there. It sounds like it's coming from the outboard end. Here's a video: http://vid25.photobucket.com/albums/c51/Dookie_1988/IMG_4781.mp4 Ignore the pad noise, but 'behind' that noise you can hear what I'm talking about if you listen carefully. I used an endoscope to see if something was dislocated or broken, and I can't see anything untoward: Any ides? - Richard
  4. Clutch or gearbox issue?

    Hi guys, New user and first post. My father-in-law has a defender 90 (2.5L 1996) that has an issue, was hoping you guys could help point us in the right direction Was driving the defender and he lost the clutch, he had a pedal but couldn't get any drive. So you put your foot down on the pedal and select a gear then when you start to lift it make a grinding / rattle noise. Get no movement at all. With the engine off you can cycle through and select every gear. We have tried it in high and low box. Diff locked and diff unlocked. Still can't get any movement. We suspected the slave cylinder, so took that off and all is well, re-assembled and reverse bled the system. Still have a clutch pedal but the problem persists. Jacked up all four corners to see if we could get any movement in any gear. Wheels don't move at all. Has anyone come across anything like this before? We don't know if its gearbox related or clutch related, was hoping for some feedback so we know where to check next! Any help would be appreciated, we don't mind doing any of the work we just need to know where to start. Cheers
  5. 97 Discovery SD will only drive when the Diff lever is engaged in 4 High. Whenever diff is in neutral the transmission will not engage in Reverse or Drive also if set to Park I can hear an awful grinding of the gears. Is this a diff issue or is it in the transmission, I want to be more certain before I take it to a mechanic.
  6. Hi Newbie here. Have used your forums as a non-member for a while...always good info 1995 300Tdi 110 CSW 200K miles. Last week, driving at 20mph in town traffic, suddenly lost drive...diff lock on and made it home. I thought 'drive flanges'. Over the weekend did the swivels and hubs etc (this was planned as had been due for a while...wobble at 55mph), and today got the chance to look at the rear drive. Well, the off side flange was worn...but not to the point it didn't work, and had eaten its circlip, and the near side flange wasn't too bad at all although the half shaft was protruding by an inch or so. Also excessive wheel bearing play (really really excessive). What's bothering me is that, in neutral, handbrake off, the rear propshaft spins and no movement (diff lock off). So, lifted each wheel in turn, but both wheels can spin freely! Am i right in thinking that the problem is the rear diff, and if so what? There's been no untoward signs (noises, clunking, grinding) and it happened at low speed, so not at undue stress or speed. Ive been looking at the exploded views of the salisbury axle, and cannot really see what's likely to have gone. Will be taking the inspection cover off tomorrow to see if anything is obvious...but any advice or if anyone's had similar problems, I'd be very thankful! General 'tinterweb' advice seems to be that it's easier to fit another axle (if necessary) rather than try to fix a salisbury.. is this really true? Thanks
  7. Hi all first time poster, I'm in a bit of a pickle, back in 2009 I fitted front and rear kam diff lockers with front and rear half shafts with hardened cvs. Now up to now everything has been fine until I broke the front short half shaft. Now I'm having difficulty trying to get a replacement apparently kam are not what they used to be and what's available now isn't comparable with what I have! Are there people on here that are still using kam stuff and have found ways to get replacement parts to fit? Or have people had to change to other manufactures? Any help will be gratefully received, thanks, Gareth
  8. Diff Pinion Bearing

    I've just purchased a new diff pinion bearing as I had my diff open anyway to replace the pinion oil seal, popped the old bearing out to have a look and concluded it was past it's best. However on inspecting the new bearing the rollers seem relatively loose in their cages and the whole thing feels pretty loose. whereas I was expecting it to be tight and smooth like a new sealed ball bearing. Is this normal, or have I got a duff bearing? Thanks Jake
  9. Diff woes

    Hi folks, Well, the latest little job on my 'work in progress' is the replacement of a faulty rear salisbury diff. Having not been trained as a mechanic, apart from the usual on the job Land Rover training on my 110, I am at a junction not knowing which way to turn. My problem is that I know nothing about diffs and as I need to source one before I fit it, what sort do I buy??? I have been told that you do not need a diff stretcher if you are replacing the diff if it is still in its casing??!! what does that mean? better still, what does one look like? I have seen photos on google and ebay but not sure what a diff in its casing looks like as there are so many different phots showing different angles and bolts and stuff but no photo saying 'this is a salisbury replacement diff still in its casing. Can anyone please help me by posting or emailing a photo or picture of what I should be looking for. I only want to replace the diff and not the whole axle because of the work involved (I do not have the experience). Many thanks in advance for any help. Cheers, Kev English
  10. Puma Oils Question

    Hi, I'm sorry if this has been asked before, if someone could point me in the right direction please, what oil do you lads recommend for Puma gearbox and Diffs etc Thanks
  11. As some oy you will know, Rovertracks used to offer a kit for adapting the Toyota hypoid diff + 30 splines shafts to the Rover housing. Shafts were bespoke: Toyota diff end and Rover pattern hub end. And here the (vapour) DIY build cheap version... -Secondhand FJ80 3rd member -Stock Toyota shafts -Since Toyota shafts are longer than Rovers, some kind of wheel spacers will be added to Rover hubs, with Toyota drive flange end stud pattern at the end side. Will that work?
  12. Currently doing a leaf spring conversion on some axles and its all going pretty well. I am using military shackles on the front so I can use the standard defender/disco caster angle on the front axle and the steering bar can clear the springs. The one thing I am not sure about is the U-bolt on the front axle next to the diff. As we have rotated the axle the extra casing at this part of the axle means the U bolt cant be rotated round to fit into the plate they normally bolt to. Is there a standard solution for this? i have looked round the common threads on this conversion but cant find anything that talks about this directly. Can any one give me a hand or point me in the direction of the conversation I have missed? I was thinking maybe a larger U bolt from another vehicle or cutting a U bolt in half and welding it to the axle casing in the correct location but was not sure about this.... Thanks for your help Jad
  13. I just fitted an axle and diff guard which bolts in place using the radius arm bolts and sits under the axle with a removable part under the diff for oil changes. I noticed a 'ting' noise the first time I drove the vehicle so, presuming it was the axle guard interfering with something, I crawled underneath and looked for impact marks. The only ones I could find were on the very front of the axle guard so I strapped a camera under there to confirm and I see that the panhard rod hits the edge of the front lip of the axle guard when I go over speed bumps. There is a small cut out which looks like it is meant to accommodate for this but it is about a third of the required length. Does anyone have any suggestions to fix this other than getting the angle grinder out? I have a 2" suspension lift planned but presume that, even after this, the panhard rod will still impact the axle guard under articulation - though possibly not if I fit +2" bump stops. Your thoughts and opinions are gratefully received.
  14. Hoping that someone might be able to shed some light on this. Sorry its a bit long. We had to get a new Clutch sorted out and also the steering was a bit loose, so took it into a 4x4 specialist who has done work on the car previously. He changed the Clutch, tightened up the steering, and I drove it round the block just to make sure that it appeared to be running OK, which it was. Drove home that night and the next day we set off on our trip, which was 4,000 kilometers in 5 days. Car drove at normal velocity, 110km per hour, no vibration, no problems etc. After about 800 kilometers we blew a tyre, rear driver side, so we changed for the spare and tried to get the original one repaired, but it was a goner, balloon type bulge from the inside out. We managed to get a used spare just to make sure we were covered and off we went. When we parked up at night, it was the first time that we had driven slow or, in a tight circle, and we were getting tyre screech at less than 10 km per hour, which I put down to the type of tarmac. We continued on the rest of the way, and apart from a little bit of a noisy clutch change there was nothing too untoward. We stopped at a tyre centre with the intent of buying two new tyres, and mentioned about the screechy tyres, but they could not see any problems, and perhaps it was a little bit of an allignment problem, although there was no vibration, and we should get it alligned once we had completed our journey. They did not have our tyre size. On the way back, another tyre blew, this time the rear passenger side, and we were forced into using the used spare, so that we could drive the 5 kilometers to the nearest town. It became apparent that the tyre screech was now a lot worse, so we drove at about 20 kilometers per hour, just to get to the nearest town and buy new tyres. We did not arrive, big bang, and after looking under the car we saw that the oil was pouring out of the rear Diff, caused by a piece of metal that had speared its way through the casing from the inside out, which appears to be a broken Differential Cross Shaft. Later when I looked, I noticed that the Differential Lever was in forward position, Diff position, but the car had been driving normally, at normal speeds, and I remembered the mechanic telling his guy to take the car out of Diff as he was pulling out of the yard so that I could test drive it. And it drove normally, and I had no need to either check the lever or alter it. So can someone please tell me what the hell happened, I am assuming that they did something wrong when they put the new clutch in, because the Diff lever is positioned wrong, but as I said it was driving at normal speeds, not with a Diff engaged. On reading up later I noticed about squeaky tyres, blown tires etc on other 4 x 4 vehicles so have just put it all together, but I have to go back to this mechanic and see what happened, and would prefer to know what it could be. Any help would be appreciated.
  15. Diff Guards

    Hi I have just got a Disco 2 td5 manual I use it mostly on the road but I'm also a Marshall for a 4x4 club. I go off road at least once a month in it. I am not going to go mad with adapting the car as I use it for day to day family stuff too. I thinking of protecting the Diff's has anyone any advice on this subject and what are the guards to go for. I'm on a budget so not going out & spending loads of dosh on these.. any advice appriciated
  16. Hi, a grinding/whiring noise has developed from the mid-rear end of my 90 but only happens when under engine braking. It does NOT happen when accellerating or braking or even heavy engine breaking. It mainly happens after you accelerate and then let off the throttle, staying in gear. It goes away as soon as you apply the brakes... I have left the handbrake off and tried to move the drum to check the transfer box rear output beaking and can feel no play. My Uj's in my rear prop are fine... And theres no play on the bearing going into the rear diff,,, Im thinking it may be the bearings of the rear diff may be worn?? Which could have now killed the diff's teeth? I think it could also be the pads rubbing on the drum of the handbrake? but then again the noise is only when engine breaking/let off after accellerating so maybe not poss..... Any thoughts are welcomed and very much appreciated! Cheers, Bear.
  17. Hoping that someone might be able to shed some light on this. Sorry its a bit long. We had to get a new Clutch sorted out and also the steering was a bit loose, so took it into a 4x4 specialist who has done work on the car previously. He changed the Clutch, tightened up the steering, and I drove it round the block just to make sure that it appeared to be running OK, which it was. Drove home that night and the next day we set off on our trip, which was 4,000 kilometers in 5 days. Car drove at normal velocity, 110km per hour, no vibration, no problems etc. After about 800 kilometers we blew a tyre, rear driver side, so we changed for the spare and tried to get the original one repaired, but it was a goner, balloon type bulge from the inside out. We managed to get a used spare just to make sure we were covered and off we went. When we parked up at night, it was the first time that we had driven slow or, in a tight circle, and we were getting tyre screech at less than 10 km per hour, which I put down to the type of tarmac. We continued on the rest of the way, and apart from a little bit of a noisy clutch change there was nothing too untoward. We stopped at a tyre centre with the intent of buying two new tyres, and mentioned about the screechy tyres, but they could not see any problems, and perhaps it was a little bit of an allignment problem, although there was no vibration, and we should get it alligned once we had completed our journey. They did not have our tyre size. On the way back, another tyre blew, this time the rear passenger side, and we were forced into using the used spare, so that we could drive the 5 kilometers to the nearest town. It became apparent that the tyre screech was now a lot worse, so we drove at about 20 kilometers per hour, just to get to the nearest town and buy new tyres. We did not arrive, big bang, and after looking under the car we saw that the oil was pouring out of the rear Diff, caused by a piece of metal that had speared its way through the casing from the inside out, which appears to be a broken Differential Cross Shaft. Later when I looked, I noticed that the Differential Lever was in forward position, Diff position, but the car had been driving normally, at normal speeds, and I remembered the mechanic telling his guy to take the car out of Diff as he was pulling out of the yard so that I could test drive it. And it drove normally, and I had no need to either check the lever or alter it. So can someone please tell me what the hell happened, I am assuming that they did something wrong when they put the new clutch in, because the Diff lever is positioned wrong, but as I said it was driving at normal speeds, not with a Diff engaged. On reading up later I noticed about squeaky tyres, blown tires etc on other 4 x 4 vehicles so have just put it all together, but I have to go back to this mechanic and see what happened, and would prefer to know what it could be. Any help would be appreciated. Discovery 1, 1998.
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