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Found 12 results

  1. Kierran.M.110

    exhaust flanges

    for a while now I've been wanting to start my custom exhaust build for my 300tdi 110, so a couple of weeks ago i finally made a start to the entire system, machined a flange to suit the turbo and had the first straight welded on. This weekend i want to get my old pipes off and start fitting the first few bits up so i can finish the front pipe. what i cant decide on is what type flange to use to join the sections of pipes together, the options are: - 3 bolt flange - 2 bolt flange - slip joint with connecting tags - v band rings reason for these 4 styles is these are the 4 options that i can easily make up, just wanted to get other peoples opinions on which one would be the best option. cheers, Kierran.
  2. Don't see me for ages then 3 times in one week anyway...... 1990 110 was TD fitted with defender 200tdi now/since I had her 15 odd LONG years Changing my TD exhaust for a 200tdi one to go with the engine Got some nice galvanized 200tdi hangers Straight through mid pipe (Terrafirma) Front down pipe and tail pipe from Paddocks and has GT Exhausts written on them Now the front end clamps are the same size holes line up between the Terrafirma mid pipe and the front GT down pipe The back clamps DO NOT..... The back end clamp on the Terrafirma straight pipe is the same as the Terrafirma and GT front clamps as in size and hole positions But the clamp on the tail pipe (Gt prt) as way smaller clamp and the holes are way way off meaning using really skinny bolts and not sure that will be able to pull it together properly or Ive the wrong back/tail pipe any one else had this ??? Spacings on first three clamp holes from centre to centre is 100mm The back/tail pipe clamp hole spacing is 85mm
  3. Morning Ralph Could you confirm the part no. for the downpipe for a K / L reg 200 Tdi auto is ESR 2628 ? from Britcar website ? There is no VIN no. as the engine and box are in a LandRover now. TIA Steve b
  4. Tractorman

    300tdi downpipe problem

    Fitting a new rigid downpipe to a straight through system and having a couple of issues... back box and straight through pipe fitted and sitting well, new downpipe a PITA.. holes on the mounting flange were too small and needed redrilling, now fitted but sits about 2 inches to the left of the centre pipe. is this a bad downpipe or does the centre section flex that much to join up? if so would seem to put a lot of stress on the manifold? I think the flange is welded on wrong, but would like to know if anyone else has had problems??
  5. Dora

    Centre box removal

    Hi, I have a 2.4 puma and have blanked the EGR and de-cat the pipe and a re-map. I am thinking about removing the centre box and wondered if I would need another re-map afterwards. Does anyone know of any downside to removing the centre box?
  6. v8classic

    Exhaust emission pipes

    Hi all I am just in the rebuild stages on my 1984 3.5 v8 range rover classic which I think is a sd1 engine. I seem to have these strange pipes that run down the sides of each cylinder head and screw into the top of the exhaust manifold ports. I think they are something to do with emissions possibly for the American market? However the pipes on my engine are completely shot and I can't seem to find any anywhere. Does anyone know where to get them from? what they are? And can I cap them off at all if I can't get hold of the tubes? Surely someone else has had this dilemma before?! Thanks in advance.
  7. Right it looks like the v8 is going to come out and swapped so it seems a good opportunity to do the exhaust. Car currently has some hacked about tubular headers lashed to an ill fitting system (previous owner). It leaks and rattles against the chassis so it needs to go. Would like to use as much std landie stuff as possible starting with a twin port cast manifolds. So what else should I buy bearing in mind it needs to be cheap as chips and the minimum of modifying parts ( no might these days) Spoke to griffin at billing as they were the only company who would help with an auto v8, but the money is bit much at the moment with engine swap on the cards What has everybody else used?
  8. Hi I'm in the vapour build or preplaning of my 109" STW rebuild, which will include a 300(T)DI conversion, this will need to release its exhaust some how and i'm wondering which system to go for, keeping the complete build as standard/simple as possible, using standard parts where ever possible. i recon it will need to be of a larger diameter than the standard 2,25 exhaust, so thats ruled out from the start. so does any one know or have they tried using some of these solution? please give me your pros, cons and needed mods, thanks 6 cyl petrol exhaust system all the way - I'm not liking the idea of it hanging on the out side of the chassis, i think i'll mess it up first time off-roading..... Stage I V8 exhaust system all the way, except the front pipe ? - a more snug fit in my eyes, but front pipe needs making, maybe combined with a XXX front pipe 300 TDI exhaust system all the way - this was not designed for this chassis or leafs but maybe fits? 200 TDI exhaust system all the way - this was not designed for this chassis or leafs but maybe fits? any other ideas ? this is the 109" in for the transplant...
  9. dudley

    fitting Britpart exhaust

    Hi again Defender 90. 1998 300TDi Just fitted rear end exhaust, thats the bit from back of rear box that goes over rear axle and bends out just behind rear wheel in front of rubber mud flap. Well, the welded on hanging bracket on the new Britpart exhaust is just about 40mm closer to the outlet end of the exhaust than the original. This means I have to force the new exhaust inward toward centre of vehicle to catch the welded hook onto the support rubber on the underside of vehicle. This has the effect of moving the whole exhaust pipe close to the chassis and it will bang on any bumps. Also pushing it inward causes the tailpipe to go against the back of rubber mudflap and will melt it. i have attached a photo and shown the measurement of the Britpart exhaust. That is 185mm from the very end or the exhaust to the weld of the bracket, ie, shortest distance between the two. My old exhaust measures 225mm to the same points. I went back to supplier, they got out another Britpart exhaust and it is the same as the one they supplied me, measuring 185mm. their suggestion was i cut the bracket off and re weld in the correct position to suit my car. Thats ok, I can do that and I will, but why should I? Now either Britpart are making them wrong or I have a none standard exhaust/vehicle, how can I tell? Can anyone confirm the correct measurements from their Defender? I can then see if Britpart are at fault and if i should follow it up.. Thanks.
  10. TheRecklessEngineer

    To silence, or not to silence

    Apologies for posting this in international, but as it pertains to all flavours of 300TDi I didn't want to post in multiple forums (fora?) Current situation: 300TDi transplant into an 88". It's a tight squeeze, but I've managed to make the standard Defender downpipe fit without too much drama. I'm now experimenting with various ideas for the middle section. It looks like the standard Defender middle/exit will fit with a bit of jiggling - but it's £75 for the middle section with a silencer - I'm not sure I'm willing to spend that much! So, the question is: How noisy is a 300TDi without a silencer? Noisy enough to justify £75?
  11. Hey has anyone tried WCD105900 - non-cat downpipe for the D2 Thor V8 engine? My down pipe has sheared and the cats are blowing, so the rules as they are here mean that I can replace with a non-cat pipe. Not many places seem to sell it and wondered if anyone had any experience at all?
  12. v8madmatt

    v8 disco

    hi i have a 1996 land rover discovery 3.9 efi v8 i am wondering if its possible to fit a decat pipe to it without hurting the engine as the engine runs sweet i do want to fit a full system just wondering where the best place to get them from is thanks for any help
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