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Found 24 results

  1. Good morning I am on this forum because no one in South Africa seem to find the problem: I stopped at a stop street, when I try to pull away, nothing happened. The car was just idling. No power going through to the diesel pump etc. I switched off and restarted , I could drive again, 1km she was low on revolutions, no real power. I could drive at 20km and hour otherwise she cuts out. She went to a Landover specialist, put on diagnostics. She registered the following problem PCM P167B. After sending the fuel injectors for a diagnostic, one fuel injector had a back leak. It was corrected, r
  2. Hi, I'm having a problem with my 1998 300tdi. Slow to start, sits fine at idle, dies on acceleration. Sounds familiar, simple fix, change the lift pump. But no! Lift pump changed, no difference. So changed fuel filter, air filter, oil filter (not related but I was in a filter mood). Engine starts slowly runs on idles, dies on acceleration. Possible dodgy replacement lift pump? Off it comes and another one put on. Tested both for blow/suck on activating the pump lever. All good. Start it up, fine on idle, (you know where this is going) dies on acceleration. So I crack
  3. The 300tdi runs fine in my 90. 137k miles. Sometimes starting isn't so good. Turn key and it fires then dies. Then follows plenty cranking 10 secs at a time for three or four times. Then a few fire and die cycles then a lumpy start and settles fine. Rarely does it second start of the day and sometimes goes a week starting first turn. Thinking it may be a fuel problem. Perhaps a leak letting air in and draining pipes down to tank. Can't see any fuel leaks. Any suggestions as to where to start looking? Thanks
  4. Hi, My 200 tdi has suddenly become hard to start if it hasn't run for a while. If it has just run it fires up straight away. When starting it will crank over and over and over then catch and stop then catch again, run very lumpily then start running normally with a blip of the throttle. There is always white smoke on start up which clears as it heats up. Once running it is fine, there is plenty of power and I can't detect any issues. No hunting, surging etc etc. My plugs are only a few years old but I haven't taken them out to test on the bench. I'm getting 10v at each one My ba
  5. Hi I have a 1993 2.5 N/A diesel That broke down on me. Climbing up a hill started to struggle so changed down a gear but revs continued to drop to the point where it was only at idle. No response to the accelerator at all even when operating the lever on the injection pump by hand. It had done something similar before where there was no throttle response but this cleared on its own while driving. Had to tow it home but it would start and idle but no increase in revs with throttle. I have been in the pump recently to re-seal the throttle spindle which was leaking but that was more tha
  6. Td5 engined 130 2004 with 240,000 kms. Just recently trouble with reluctant cold or hot start and running on 4 cyls. Problem is intermittent so thinking of investing in diagnostic tool. Any ideas or recommendations ?
  7. Hi, We recently bought a 1999 Freelander 2nd hand from a couple down the road. After the freezing cold night on Sunday, we went to drive to the shops and found that the car wouldn't start. The engine cranked slowly and the injector clicked. Suspecting it was a low battery, we attempted to bump-start the car to no avail (though we probably didn't do it right anyway). Yesterday we called out breakdown and the lad attempted to jump-start the car, which also failed. He suspected a dodgy fuel pump, and (with the jump-starter still connected) after kicking the fuel tank the car started once but
  8. Anyone know what the fitting/thread is on the end of a hot wire fuel rail. Looks like its a nut and olive on the rail, but not sure what needs to go on the end of the hose. Was thinking of cutting the nut off and just using a hose clip, but would prefer a neater solution Thanks
  9. Hi all newbie here. i have an 89 rrc 3.5 non carb v8, on LPG, which ran perfectly well untill the other day i have done a lot of welding work etc etc, installed a new 25 litre petrol tank (as i didnt have one, just a jerry can with the original pump inside) to start her up before switching to gas, problem is now my mechanic mate seems to think we may have a fueling issue also a ignition issue. sometimes starts sometimes wont sometimes starts and runs at 3000 rpm sometimes takes ages to start like its got no spark/fuel then spurts to life. fuel pump was for a 3.9 v8 rated and new 8mm ID
  10. I have a 1999 TD5 defender with a pump problem. When the ignition is turned on, the fuel pump relay does not energise. Then I manually close the fuel pump relay the pump starts. So the fuel pumps works correctly. I get 12v on pin 86 of the relay when the ignition is on. (between chassis and pin contact and between pins 85 and 86). I have checked continuity between the relay pin 85 and the ECU connector, the blue and purple wire. The main relay and inertia switch are ok. If I short out the relay to start the pump the engine still won't start. Am I looking at a new ECU or can there be another
  11. Can anyobne point me in the right direction please? I have a 50th anniversay defender 90. It has the factory fit 3.9L V8 engine and has aftermarket LPG. On LPG it drives brilliantly. When I switch over to petrol it really struggles. Its just had new lambda sensors and a MAF sensor fitted and ti much improved - however it still starts to stutter +++ at about 3000 revs when on petrol. Recently I broke down and was rescued by the AA (out of LPG gas and so using petrol at the time). It just wouldn't start. The very nice man from the AA got it going by spraying sure start into the air filter
  12. Hi there I own a 2002 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 2.5 Diesel which over the years I have had quite a few problems with. Recently over the past 2-3 weeks I have had major problems with the vehicle. The problem which I am having is that the vehicle has developed a constant whirring noise even when the engine is running and whilst driving. Over the past week it has taken 8 attempts to try and start the vehicle and sometimes I have had to prime it to get it to start. However this week it has taken 2-3 attempts to start the vehicle and I cannot understand what is causing this problem. We took it
  13. OK, I may be in the wrong forum, but it is in a Series 3 109. Engine has run fine for years, but two days ago it started losing power on hills, sort of pulling and then fading away. Seems to get worse as the engine warms up. Suspected fuel starvation, so changed fuel filter. No change. Next changed the lift pump. Still no change, if anything worse. This afternoon connected lift pump to a jerrycan of diesel to eliminate an air leak. Again worse if anything. The only parts of the original fuel system are now the two pipes from lift pump to filter and filter to injector pump (which I will ch
  14. Hi all. I'm currently in the throes of tidying up my new stage 1 V8 and ive come across a couple of issues. Firstly, there's an annoying vibration when I accelerate to 50kph. It feels like the truck is driving on a road made of tiny speed bumps. It stops at 60kph but comes back at 70kph. The prop-shafts are properly greased and gearbox/diffs have good clean oil in. Also makes a funny knocking noise when slowing from approx. 10kph to 0kph. What's likely to be the culprit there? Secondly, my fuel system appears to be a bit of a mish-mash and I would like to return it to standard. I found what
  15. Defender 110 TD5, 130k but well looked after FSH as they say. From cold slow starting and when it does fire up no throttle response for up to a minute then normal but with big cloud of white smoke. From warmish starts quicker but same throttle response problem, no white smoke. Tried: Purging- no difference, changing fuel filter - no change, checking fuel pump filters - all ok, oil to ECU- a little, cleaned up no change. When purging the fuel pump sounds normal and there is no gurgling etc - anyone got any ideas anyone ? The local mechanic is baffled and the diagnostic tool said the aircon was
  16. Hi Guys and Girls, I have an issue with my 05 freebie Td4 which has done 95000 miles. She is rough idling at around 750rpm and is smokey (white) when cold, does not stall but is hunting. when warmed up she runs fine, I have noticed that when I disconnect the high pressure fuel sensor she stops hunting, I have no warning lights or codes in the OBD, but my interrogator only shows a limited live stream. Will a dealer/independents OBD interrogator be able to distinguish between healthy or blocked injectors and or sensors if there are no fault codes from the ECU? I have replaced all filters i
  17. Hello all, I know there are a number of vendors who produce aux tanks that fit into both rear fender of the Defender 90 and 110. I'm sure they are a great value to many, but I would like to fabricate my own. I'm sure they will be far from perfect, but a whole lot cheaper. Problem is I don't yet have my Defender 110 (not many of them in Canada) and I've struggled for weeks to find even rough dimensions of the fender spaces. I'm not trying to rip off anyone's hard work or design, I just really want to know the measurements of the spaces in the rear fenders of the Defender 110 so I can fabricate
  18. Quick question. Is it possible to tee the leak off (return line) from Inj pump into the filter, to be circulated back into pump, without going to tank first? Or would lift pump pressure / return pressures fight against each other? Cheers
  19. To the point - '74 Series runs fine while cold. Then after a stop (or after getting warm) it sort of loses momentum. To the point where I have to revv it hard to keep all 4 fireing. At, for instance, a stoplight... And once it drops, it drops to two or at best, three cylinders. Then, as it gets revved up in first gear (clutch out) it sort of kicks in. Until it doesn't... Now, I'm starting to work through the fuel-electricity-air equation and so far I've: - Rebuilt the carb. With proper Zenith parts - Gone from points to electrical breaker - Gone from mechanical to electrical fuel pump -
  20. Just discovered that im leaking fuel out of (I believe) the small hole near the top of the lift pump where it is cleanest on the picture. Is this just a need to replace the lift pump or some other problem? Im also not sure if im leaking more oil than normal or if its just the fuel washing oil of the rest of the engine to make me think this.
  21. Hi all, Sorry for being a broken record but just desperately need some help / advice with this. (This question is also posted on Luke's thread - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25376). My speedometer, fuel gauge, temperature gauge and indicators all simultaneously stopped working whilst driving. I went through the steps in Luke's post and all worked as expected until I repeated the tests with "light switch supply". Using "light switch supply" the indicators did not work in this case. Hazard lights work with both the ignition on or off and gauge back lights still work as does d
  22. Hi, I do have a dirty diesel leak at the filler cap & neck. Question, how to get rid of this leakage? e.g. may be by upgrading to the later type plastic filler neck WLH100570? But will that be without problems? Not sure about vented fuel caps / possible vacuum etc? All ideas to sort out this problem welcome... or should I replace the filler neck wit a standard one + fit new cap? The current cap is non genuine (which might be part of the problem..) Cheers Marco
  23. Hi all, First post, and first Freelander. 2003 1.8 Kalahari which needs a new fuel pump - common problem, I know. The Freelander has the later fuel pump, which by the book is part number WFX000210. This fits 1.8 for 2003-2006, and 2.5 v6 2001-2006. Would be easiest to just buy one of those new and fit. However, I have a good offer on a WFX000190, which by the book only fits 2.5 v6 2001-2002. However, since you can also fit the WFX000210 to the 2001-2002 v6, the differences must be very minor - in fact I can't see any at all from photos! Anyone know the differences? Is there a chance these
  24. Hi, After re-wiring my 1987 3.5V8 Efi i can not get an accurate reading out of the temperature gauge as it seems to be affected by the fuel gauge, i.e. when one goes up the other goes up, at least that's what it looks like. The fuel gauge appears to be OK as when the tank is nearly empty the reading shows low and the reserve light comes on, but occasionally it does seem to go up and down a bit. The temperature gauge seems to start ok, reading cold and then slowly going to the mid point, it also creeps up and down a bit for no obviuos reason (i.e. I'm not going up hills or anything like that
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