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Found 25 results

  1. Hello all, It looks like I am going to have to swap out my wife's SIII 1974 SWB gearbox and transfer box. While doing it I am going to take the opportunity to replace the rubber mounts. Is there anything else you would recommend I should do while I am there? Any tips /tricks appreciated; under or over extraction, which bolt always shears off, etc. Never done one before. Gulp! If any one has a list of required seal part numbers that would save me some time too 😉 The engine it's mated to is a 2.5 petrol out of an early 90 ( I belive).
  2. My son has a 1992 (K reg) landrover 90 that he drove for a few years before deciding to strip it down to do it up. He has now moved away and would like to sell it. The question is how much is this worth, in a partly disembled state and missing a gearbox and tranfer case? Would it be better to try and get a gearbox etc so I am selling a complete vehicle or is it not worth it? Where is the best place to sell the vehicle - ebay or is there a site for enthusiasts that I should try. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  3. I've recently bought an X-Eng/Foundry Gear lock for my 200tdi/R380 One Ten but can't fit it. I've spoken to them about the issue and they say that the transfer lever is bent and this is what is causing the issue. Looking at it, it looks normal to me but what do I know (very very little)... So I've spoken to someone today who says I may have a disco box in there and not a Defender one. Is it possible to tell from the picture if I have a Disco or Defender box and is the lever "normal"? Thanks, Heds
  4. Afternoon All, I have recently purchased a 1993 2.5 Turbo Diesel Defender. Runs and drives nicely but I can't get more than 50mph out of it - I've had 60 at a real push and instantly got a hot rubber smell. The top speed doesn't bother me as I rarely take it on any major roads and don't plan to. However it would be reassuring to know that I haven't got a more serious issue. My understanding is that I may have a 1.6 ratio gearbox? Is this possible and how would i know? My other question would be is this typical from a 1.6 ration gearbox. I'm pretty much a novice mechanically and just have a pure love for land rovers so although this question may sound stupid and advice would be appreciated! Cheers
  5. Bonjour Tous ! I have been offered a good - as in very little rust etc. - LHD 4 door RRC Saudi Spec. Right now, it is a 3.5 inj. with a 5 speed manual box (LT77 I guess ???) Quick questions : 1 - IF LT77 gearbox is fitted, will it accept a 200 or 300 Tdi ? 2 - What better diesel engine options are there ? (Mazda I know already - had several) if - a very big IF - I'd were to go the RRC route it will do about 35,000 miles a year so LPG is an option.. Diesel, however, is so much easier in many way. Perhaps the 3rd. question should be "am I insane to even consider getting a RRC"....
  6. Hi guys, New user and first post. My father-in-law has a defender 90 (2.5L 1996) that has an issue, was hoping you guys could help point us in the right direction Was driving the defender and he lost the clutch, he had a pedal but couldn't get any drive. So you put your foot down on the pedal and select a gear then when you start to lift it make a grinding / rattle noise. Get no movement at all. With the engine off you can cycle through and select every gear. We have tried it in high and low box. Diff locked and diff unlocked. Still can't get any movement. We suspected the slave cylinder, so took that off and all is well, re-assembled and reverse bled the system. Still have a clutch pedal but the problem persists. Jacked up all four corners to see if we could get any movement in any gear. Wheels don't move at all. Has anyone come across anything like this before? We don't know if its gearbox related or clutch related, was hoping for some feedback so we know where to check next! Any help would be appreciated, we don't mind doing any of the work we just need to know where to start. Cheers
  7. Hi guys, I'm new to the forum so hello everyone. Im rebuilding an early series 3 gearbox and have a question to ask. The gearbox has a single bush for second/third gear but the replacement I've been sent is two separate bushes. Only one bush can be "pegged" to the mainshaft. Do you think I should get a replacement single bush or use the two separate bushes? Thank you in advance.
  8. Which put transfer gear box for Land Rover Defender 110 3.5 v8 for greater speed? P.S. now MAX speed 130
  9. I would like to use this thread to get some advice and learn something from people with more experience than me,and to get other people's opinion on some things in order to successfully finish this project. My goal is not to make this car something clean,nice and perfect, nor something that I would't be comfortable loading and driving trough mud, rock and bushes. Such ground off restauration would require resources wich I don't currently posses (both money and time). But who knows, one day, maybe... But first, allow me to introduce you to current state of things... In March 2005 my dad bought his second Land Rover, a 1970 Santana Series IIA 109" wich was fitted with Mercedes 300D engine. Because of improper engine poistioning, the engine was overheating and eventually lost compression. Some time before breaking down, my dad's first Land Rover ('68 SIIA 109") had problems with differentials wich caused halfshafts to be broken. Since buying new(spare) rear axle turned out to be almost as expensive as buying a whole car, he bought yet another, rusty, beaten up SIIA for use of it's axle and other spare parts. This Landy had original 2.25 petrol 3 main bearing engine wich was running. After the Merc broke down in January 2011, the lack of spare time, and lack of need for second Land Rover ('68 still working) led to the car sitting for more than 5 years. I felt wrong that the car, wich was otherwise (at the time) in decent condition (way better than the '68 Landy), was rotting in our backyard,when it obviousley could be fixed. I talked to my dad and and we concluded that the best option was to jam the 2.25 petrol in instead of fixing the Mercedes engine and setting it up properly. But many things got in the way and the work was delayed for another 2+ years. May 2015 17th of January 2016, the work has finally started. We pulled out the gearbox from the spare-part Land Rover, later the engine too.Next weekend the Mercedes engine from Santana was also out, the gearbox following. The Mercedes engine was put aside, and the 2.25 brought into the garage, and cleaned, some small bits on the car also sanded and painted, but overall the progress was very slow beacuse I was home only at weekends, and even then I couldn't put too much time into it, and the weather wasn't very helpful either. 300D out In the garage, the 2.25's compression was tested. All cylinders are 10 bars or more accept the fourth wich is 9 bars. After I have sanded the engine I came across a nasty 20 cm crack running on the right side of the engine block. We decided to test the crack by connecting the engine to the 4 bar water source. It did not leak. That means it won't later on... Right? The water pressure in the cooling system should be less than 4 bars? Fingers crossed and moving on as if nothing happened. This testing showed no leaking whatsoever... Recently, while cleaning the gearbox I noticed that the gearbox that I wanted to use was the "E" prefix gearbox, wich was earlier and weaker compared to the "D" suffix. Fortunately the other gearbox wich was connected to Mercedes engine indeed was "D" suffix but it had Mercedes bellhousing on, so I will need to put the one from "E" gearbox on this one. I have removed it and am now waiting to get the gaskets to connect it to the "D" gearbox. Hopefully this will finish my gearbox work so I can start disassembling the engine looking clean Oh, and here is the link where you can find the full album of the build so far. Almost every photo has comment below in wich you can find more info. https://goo.gl/photos/U5KUuNNgrd3k4MnA6 Cheers!
  10. So my Series IIA D suffix gearbox has transfer box with "A" letter stamped on it. Anyone know what this means? The other gearbox I have has no marks on transfer box whatsoever.
  11. I am working on my Series IIA Land Rover and I have two gearboxes to use and I don't know wich one to choose. The first one is off Series IIA Santana and It's code is E51150390D. I know that D-suffix gearboxes are the best series gearboxes but what confuses me is the E prefix. What does it mean? I can't find anything about the prefixes on the web. Maybe the prefix just marks that it is spanish made Santana?. The second gearbox is also from the IIA with 25435797E code,and I have already cleaned this gearbox its all nice and shiny and the Santana has an inch thick layer of hard mud mixed with oil all over it it would take a day of work to make it clean again and in order to use it i need to transplant bell housing from other gearbox for it. Is it worth the work or should just use the one I originally wanted to?
  12. Evening, I own a 1992 2 Door Manual. This has the LT77S 'box. I have an odd vibration/juddering when pulling in 3rd gear. The other gears pull fine without this symptom. It's only in 3rd gear and doesn't matter on engine load. Usually I can't feel the vibration any more over 4k, so more pronounced a low revs. I feel it through my seat, not the steering wheel. After changing to 4th, all is well again. I have serviced the gearbox (inc. filter) and the old fluid was old but not black. The drain magnet was also acceptable in my opinion, as was the extension case's filter. There was nothing to suggest shards of metal in the system. The only other issues I've noticed with this 'box are clunky changes from 1st to 2nd, and reasonably large clunks/backlash when disengaging drive in 1st if load is on the system (up hill etc). Any advice gratefully received. - Richard
  13. Hi All, Been sat day-dreaming a bit the last couple of days about different setups for land rover transfer box selector options (yup I really do that). Now if I had own way I would love to have the centre diff lock operated by some form of air actuator a bit like the t95 style option but perhaps compressor driven. However both of my trucks are t230 cases. I then thought perhaps a simpler option would be to just separate the standard 2 axis selector stick into to individual levers. For me this would be great for trialling as I really seem to struggle when toggling the centre lock in and out (perhaps its just short arms or something...). Anyway I thought perhaps some of you out there may have made your own solutions to this and would have pictures that you might be willing to share for some future "creative inspiration". Cheers!
  14. Where can I find the model/serial numbers on the gearbox and transfer box?
  15. Hello, I am new new landrover, I have just bought a defender 2006 county. I am having trouble with the other gear box to select low range and engage the diffs. I have tried to engage it in high range but when it move it across to the left it doesn't feel like a normal change of gears. Also the light doesn't appear. Any help would be great.
  16. I cbecked my center diff lock today and found that the pipes are leaking. Since i'm too lazy too follow the pipes i decided to go for a mechanical conversion. But when i try to remove the diaphragm it seem to be stuck in place unmavoable at all even though i've taken off the 2 blots securing it in place what should i do to remove the stuborn thing Also i havent took off the actuator, i'm just trying to take the diaphragm off from the transfer case
  17. Hi, I'm sorry if this has been asked before, if someone could point me in the right direction please, what oil do you lads recommend for Puma gearbox and Diffs etc Thanks
  18. Tonight was time to drain the oils off and get the little jobs out the way before next weeks planned safety test, back axle was quite clean, front is clean as I changed that when I did the swap to 24 spline, but the gear box.... Like my christmas tree? Only a couple of smallish fragments in the filter but quite a few flakes. Here is a comparrisson of new ATF and what I drained out. Would anyone be so kind as to give a prognosis on how long this LT77 has before it gets terminal?
  19. I have a really strange problem that has completely baffled me and am hoping somone can shed some light on it, I have a military series 3 ffr about a year back i done a 200di conversion which is great, anyway to the problem, I drove up to north yorkshire for christmas a 260 mile trip spent a week exploring with no problems, halfway home pulled into the service station to give us and the landy a bit of a rest and found i couldn't select 1st or 2nd gear, i had a quick check nothing seemed out of place so as we was on the motorway the whole way home decided to carry on home, no strange noises or any other problems apart from selecting 1st and 2nd. Got home and found one of the gearbox mounts had split right through and the other was looking a bit tierd. No problem i thought i replaced the mounts hoping it would solve the problem which as far as selecting the gears it did. Now for the strange part, when i reverse, as soon as i dip the clutch the landy stops sharp as if i had pulled up on the hand brake, if there is drive from the engine it's fine it only does it when i dip the clutch, it's fine in neutral and all forward gears. i adjusted the hand brake all the way off just incase it was something to do with that but it has made no difference. if anyone has any idea what could cause this i would be eternally grateful for any help. cheers John
  20. HI guys I have a 1989 range rover TURBO D model fitted with a 300tdi engine and manual gearbox i would like to convert the car to an automatic. could someone tell me exactly the parts i will need changing? thank you
  21. Hi probley been ask before but my landy keeps jumping out of reverse if u hold it in its fine but let it it go and rev it a little and out it comes any body no what it could be alll over gers work fine
  22. I have a 2004 TD5 Defender that I've owned for about a year and it's now done 105,000km. 1 previous lady owner who used it until 85k as a shopping trolley around town. Ever since owning it 2nd,3rd and reverse have been a bit 'notchy'. Double de clutching and slowing the gear changing makes it ok but I can't make a really swift gettaway from the lights (even if it is a Defender!). I haven't owned a TD5 before so don't know what the 'normal' gear shift is like. Anyhow I noticed a bit of slip every now and again a few months back so took advantage of a trip to UK to get a replacement clutch and cover kit (Valeo). Since then the slipping has got more noticeable...so am 'nursing it' at present...not too bad for now. Doing some reading up and I see the dual mass flywheel seems to come in a replacement kit. Now that is getting pricey...especially from down here in NZ. So my questions please to the Landy world.... 1.Is the 'notchy' gear change a feature of (a) worn synchro rings, (b) clutch wear or © both!? 2.Is it the norm to replace the dual mass flywheel with clutch replacement and/or is it a case of 'whilst you have the box out you may as well replace it'? If not how do I know when it is worn and needs replacing? Many thanks!!!
  23. 2001 Defender 90TD5, 100K miles, R380 gearbox. For some time it's been making what I can only describe as a "growl" when changing from 2nd to 3rd. It only happens if I've been giving it lots of revs in 2nd then try changing quickly into 3rd. The noise occurs for half a second or so before 3rd engages - it's not a "grinding gears" noise like you get if you seriously mistime a gearshift. If I double-declutch [put it in neutral and lift the clutch before engaging 3rd] the noise doesn't happen; it also doesn't happen when I'm driving more gently. Gearbox is otherwise in good order and has always been treated to regular oil-changes using Castrol's approved-for-Honda-gearboxes MTF94 equivalent. I'm guessing that the 2nd/3rd synchros are getting a bit tired. Do I just put up with the noise until something finally breaks? The problem with the double-declutching technique is that in the second or so it takes, you lose forward momentum especially when towing a big trailer uphill. --Tanuki. ""Do not despise the snake for having no horns, for who is to say it will not become a dragon?""
  24. With the crunch I am getting from my gearbox, it is obvious I need to change the transmission oil. So out comes the 1/2" spanner. Won't budge. get a 12 point socket on it - won't budge. Liberal soaking in WD40, rip up the driver side floor to get better access - no joy. invert a 1/4" torx bit in my drill - lots of smoke, no joy. Blow torch and steady pressure - scary but otherwise uneventful. Finally some pipe-freeze spray - nope. Getting a bit bored with this now. I'm spending a lot of free time studying a 1/2" square plug that seems to be toying with me. The little bugger. Before I roll the truck into my local garage and ask them to "just make it work", are there any other suggestion? Is it time I dug deep and bought an impact wrench? If so, which one?
  25. I have a Discovery 300TDi (now a "project car") and before the head gasket blew, I noticed a problem with the transmission. In 5th gear with a trailer at 60mph there was terrible "lash" or jerkiness and it was very unpleasant to drive. In 4th gear it was OK. One school of thought is that the gearboxes are worn out. Where should I begin in searching for the play in the transmission, or could it be the clutch plate buffer springs? I do have a Range Rover gearbox available but will this fit? Best regards from David.
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