Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'glow plugs'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • The Lounge
    • International Forum
    • Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
    • Getting out and about
    • Competing in Land Rovers
    • Tools and Fabrication
    • The Video Shack
  • Tech Archive
    • Land Rover Technical Archive
    • Requests for Part Numbers
  • Vehicles
    • Series Forum
    • Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
    • New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
    • The New Ineos Grenadier
    • Freelander Forum
    • Discovery Forum
    • Range Rover Forum
    • Military Forum
    • Evoque Forum


There are no results to display.


  • LR90's Blog
  • geoffbeaumont's Blog
  • My 1991 RRC 4.0 V8
  • Doublecab Happenings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 5 results

  1. I get asked for these all the time. The glow plug connectors are not available from Land Rover, except as part of the complete engine harness. I’ve looked for a supplier – but, it’s not clear who actually makes them for Leoni Wiring Systems (Land Rover’s harness manufacturer). However, I’ve been reliably informed that the same connector is used on some VAG (VolksWagen, Audi, Seat, Skoda) vehicles, and is available from a VAG Dealer, as part number 028971782A In the Defender / Discovery-2 engine harnesses, the other ends from the glow plugs, are all crimped together to the yellow/black feed wire from the glow plug relay, and sleeved over. .
  2. Some time back I converted my S3 1984 petrol to a 200 Di (turbo removed), following the Glencoyne method. Amazingly it works great and I've had very little trouble since. Although for the trouble I wonder if it was worth it (the petrol was just as good). Anyway now I do have some minor problems. It is smokey, leaks diesel from the lines, does not start in cold weather and overheats on long journeys. In all other respects it works great. My primary concern is the leaks on the fuel return pipes between the injectors. I've changed these twice. The first time I popped the pipes in boiling water then put them on. Recently I replaced them with new braided 3.2 mm hose, which I just pushed on. Anyway they have all leaked diesel. Does anybody know how to attach these correctly, should they have an additional clip to tighten the fitting? It seems to me that the return fuel is under pressure, I thought they would be low pressure and not need clips. Also, overheating. I had to remove the fan to fit the engine. Do I need an electric fan? Smoke. It is grey / white / blueish - any ideas Starting. What is an easy method to fit the glow plugs. Can I use the existing Petrol Starter solenoid, which is mounted on the bulkhead?
  3. I'm have a bit of trouble with my trusty old Defender TD5 from 2000 The trouble started last week when it suddenly wouldn't start. All I got was no cranking over and rapid ticking from the starter. It have acted like that once before - which turned out to be a bad earth connection on the starter, so that was the first thing I checked. I also checked and cleaned all the other connection while under there. It turned out to be a dead battery instead. Easy fix. Then after I couple of days it wouldn't start again. But this time it cranks over like it should, but now I have no yellow glow plug or engine light when turning the key. The purring from the pump in the back is obviously also gone too. Here is what I have done so far which turned out fine (or at least I think so): Checked and cleaned the earth points underneath and under the seat (ECU) Checked all the relays for corrosion Checked all the fuses for corrosion Checked the ECU for oil (There was a tiny hint of oil, but I doubt thats the sinner) Checked the fuelpump by bypassing the relay It can't be the immobiliser as it doesn't have one. Battery, it's brand new. The temperature gauge moves a bit when I turn the key, but the goes straight back down to blue (C) again. If I remove the 30A Main Relay fuses under the seat and turn the key the temperature gauge goes into red (H) when the key is turned. I must have read everything there is on this topic, but still stuck so I would appreciate any pointers. I have attached a few images of the relays and ECU if thats any help. Thanks Jens
  4. I tried starting my Land Rover 90 2.5 NA Ex-MOD after a winter in a cold damp garage. Turned the key to heat the glow plugs for more than 20 seconds, a smell of acrid burning and smoke started to come out behind the instrument panel. The car started but the orange light for the glow plugs does not go out and the burning behind the panel continues. Switched off the engine. Any thoughts before I remove the instrument panel?
  5. HI all I've had a quick browse through the old posts but couldn't find anything similar to this problem. Our 1998 L-series 2.0 diesel Freelander stalled as Mrs Blip pulled away from traffic lights after a long journey. It wouldn't restart - it would turn over and over and we checked all the fueling problems and couldn't spot anything wrong. Further investigation spotted that the glow plug lamp wasn't illuminating - the 70amp fuse hadn't just blown but melted. The engine management light fuse in the cabin fuse box had also blown. After replacing this, all was well and the car started first time and ran fine. I've now been able to recreate the problem, by pulling away roughly. The first time I tried it, the glow plug light illuminated briefly just as the engine almost stalled but then recovered. I tried it a second time - no glow plug light (fuse blown) and the vehicle stalled and wouldn't start (engine management fuse blown) Any thoughts? Cheers Blippie
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy