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Found 12 results

  1. Hi Folks, Had to remove the heater duct from my 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi to help route some cables over the wheel arch. That's another story for another thread. Looking to put back on now but have a few questions. Couple of images below to help. 1. Noticed that there is a rubber gasket/seal that goes around the inside of the flange end of the white spacer tube (Part 11). The rubber seal does not seem to be listed as a separate part. It has gone brittle on little pieces have come off. Can this part be sourced? 2. The spacer tube can move freely back and forth between the heater intake duct (Part 14) and the seal to the blower heater (Part 12). Is the intention that the space tuber is simply left pushed towards the heater and its seal. Many Thanks, Simon...
  2. Does anybody know what the part number is of the angled bracket that connects the heater matrix enclosure to the blower? See point 2 from the manual.
  3. When I got my 1999 td5 110 some years ago I was quite excited about the fact it had factory air con in it. Having lived with it for a bit I am now less than impressed with it and am wondering if some kind folk here can help me improve the general performance of the system. In particular, I am not impressed with the lack of heat circulation - I'm used to early 110s and always tended to have a decent amount of air directed to the footwell which worked quite well for me. With the aircon system I don't seem to get significant amounts of heat down there at all and with all the hot air going onto the windscreen my feet are freezing! Is this normal for early style dash air con defenders or am I going to have to delve deeper into the system and look for missing hoses etc?
  4. Ive studied the various threads and about the above but not seen a similar fault. Every 3-5 years I have to replace my ignition switch/lock . Its a 1990 v8, all the circuit diags show a wire from the ignition to the fuse box then to the heater motor. On all the failed ignition switches its this terminal that appears to melt, the back of the switch gets all loose and wobbly then you have to change it. The wire itself to the fuse box seems pretty thin gauge, though it never blows the fuse the fuse itself is also a touch on the brown singed looking side. Anyone else seen this fault, I'm tempted to run a new wire in to the fuse box from a better switched feed.
  5. Good evening everyone, I'm new to the world of the Defender having purchased my first one on Sunday. I know the heaters in these things are renowned for being woeful, however my heater control lever is jammed solid, with no movement whatsoever available. Has anyone encountered this before, and have any tips on how to free it? Many thanks in advance.
  6. I got it a while back as a refurbished unit but for various reasons I've not managed to fit it yes. i set it up for testing and can't see where I'm going wrong, it's hooked up to a strong battery and connected as per the instructions. I've never usedd one before so I'm not sure what it's meant to do, the first time I fire it up after a rest it buzzez for a bit then the pump kicks in, gets faster, coughs a bit, makes some horrible noises and then dies. After that it runs horribly rough and never seems to spark. I've uploaded a couple of videos of it if anyone is feeling charitable and offering some advice that would be much apreciated https://youtu.be/XIAt_H2GgQw https://youtu.be/69_7lSl4LP4
  7. Hi Working through my webasto install and so far I've put a new washer bottle in and made a mount for the heater in the engine bay where the old one was. I'm hoping to connect up the coolant pipes later in the week and run it for a while to make sure everything's as it should be before connecting it up but I'm still deciding on how to supply fuel to it. I'd rather not tee into the main fuel line for a couple of reasons, one I might install an air heater in the future and I'd rather have a dedicated feed for both rather than tapping into the fuel line twice. The second I can't really disclose on a public forum but you can probably guess. I've seen a nice metal insert which goes into your fuel filler neck rubber hose with a long pick up that stretches into the fuel tank but unfortunately they're £70. I've attached a couple of pictures. I'd like to make something up myself and have the following options. 1. bodge - drill a small hole in the rubber filler neck and poke a flexible fuel line down from there into the tank. Tape up with self amalgamating tape 2. buy a small slimline fuel pick up (picture below) and attach it straight through the rubber filler neck hose 3. Buy a piece of metal pipe and the above fuel pick up. Attach fuel pick up to pipe and then flexible fuel hose to the other side going into the fuel tank Does anyone have any advice on whether any of those might work? I'm thinking of opting for option 2 provided there's no problem with having a flexible hose in the tank. If that's an issue it might end up just having to buy one although some of the normal fuel pick up pipes look like they're made of bendy pipe which would work well (last picture) Thanks for any advice
  8. Hi Folks, Getting round to putting the dash back together. Defender 300Tdi 1996 - Bought a new gasket for the heating vent/dash interface. Item 23 - https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/interior-trim/trim/parcel-tray-heater-duct_53604 When removed, it was stuck in place. Wondering what folk would recommend for sticking the new one back in place. Many Thanks, Simon...
  9. I'm in the process of fitting a webasto heater to my 300tdi defender 110 and at the stage of moving the washer bottle. I bought an under wing bottle to replace the standard one and I've discovered that the holes for the pumps are much larger in the new bottle. I'm going to try and bodge them in today but wondered if anyone knew if there was a better solution and what would be needed to sort it. I've seen people that have used external pumps and blanked off the holes and also people that have used new pumps with a different connector. The washer bottle I bought said it came from a tdci, I'm not sure if this is the same as the td5 or if they're different. Does anyone know what pump would fit and whether there is anything else I would need. Thanks in advanceadvance
  10. Hi I have had trouble with my Disco II 1999 it was overheating. Water pump replaced and also later the radiator. I had to replace 4 hoses. At present the heater works and the car is not overheating and there is no coolant loss but there is the sound of coolant sloshing around the heater. But the coolant pressure is still there 12 hours later. I have tried to bleed all the air out of the coolant system but still have the noise from the heater. The car had its head gasket replaced last year in May. My garage has done a test for exhaust gas in the coolant and that was negative. Apart from the pressure the car is running well.
  11. As I work through the electrics on my 1980 SIII diesel, I am steadily discovering the many small electrical problems i didn't know i had. The most recent is the Lucas 3-position blower motor switch. After two days of google-fail and to the point of, "I'll just buy a new one....", I decided to tear the switch apart and give it one last try. The results were smashing and i want to post here for anyone who finds themselves in the same predicament, All those posts of, " if you have power on the LGN wire, then you have fixed it.....", or "green wire goes to the slow speed" i found to be useless with no wires attached to my switch and no good circuits through it. So, here it goes. I stared off by prying the toggle end off of the switch. There are two tabs on each side. Be gentle. Once apart, you can see the simplicity of 1940's technology. The wiper moves in the direction of the toggle. Two of the springs did pop off, but they were not too terribly difficult to put back with a tiny screwdriver; eyeglasses sized screwdriver. Once disassembled, I soaked the parts in vinegar- especially the body of the switch. This removed all corrosion and oxidation. If you can see, the wiper is fixed with a iron or steel pin. This pin corroded and caused my switch to malfunction. Some steel wool and vinegar cleaned it all up. In the photos below, common is the common + side. before re-assembly, i lubed all contact parts with dielectric grease. and here is the switch, reassembled with the contacts as they work for me. This is the same switch as the 3-position headlamp switch. I know it's a simple fix, but it saved me $30 and a weeks wait for a new new switch! Hope it helps someone in need. johnny
  12. Hi All, I have read on quite a few forums that people are struggling with their heaters not getting hot/warm enough. I have the opposite problem in that my TD5 is always HOT. It does have the Air Conditioning system and I am operating the air conditioning system as directed in the handbook, but there is still heat coming out of the various heating nozzles as well as the cold air coming out of the air conditioning vents. Can anybody explain the heating system how to turn off the "HOT". What does the hot/cold lever operate to turn off the heat (flow of water to the heater matrix?). Just looking for clues as to where to start investigating and how the system works.... Thanks in advance Phil
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