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Found 4 results

  1. Hi All, I have read on quite a few forums that people are struggling with their heaters not getting hot/warm enough. I have the opposite problem in that my TD5 is always HOT. It does have the Air Conditioning system and I am operating the air conditioning system as directed in the handbook, but there is still heat coming out of the various heating nozzles as well as the cold air coming out of the air conditioning vents. Can anybody explain the heating system how to turn off the "HOT". What does the hot/cold lever operate to turn off the heat (flow of water to the heater matrix?). Just looking for clues as to where to start investigating and how the system works.... Thanks in advance Phil
  2. Hi guys, rebuilt my engine after a heavy smoking problem, smoking now gone and running as usual. Unfortunately, the temp gauge climbs way too fast and gets to the top of the gauge within only two or three miles of flat, straight fen road driving. It's really strange, I've filled the radiator up and it shows the normal level in the header tank and the thermostat is new and genuine (the second thermostat since the rebuild) I first tried taking the thermostat out and it stayed at quarter temp on the gauge while driving a few miles but once it was back in it climbed way too fast again. No steam or anything coming from the bonnet. Whole engine was stripped and rebuilt, head gasket was done properly and head torqued correctly. Oil level holding normal, water level doesn't really move even after gauge shows overheating. Fan belts are new and it's on a viscous fan at the moment. Water pump is a year old. Radiator has no visible damage and it's not done any of this overheating before. What's up with it??
  3. Having eventually got my lovely steel workshop built and the 109 and all my tools and stuff into it, and almost able to move round & work on things... I moved house ...so now it's all got to be done from scratch again! The new place has what could be described as a generously-sized single-car garage (as in you could park a car in it AND still walk round), with ~5m of concrete driveway in front which is begging to have walls and a roof put on it to extend the existing garage and make a proper sized home for the 109 and all the tools and stuff. Existing garage is brick-built, so the extension should be too. I've no idea how much it costs to do a brick-built garage, anyone on here had one built recently or qualified to hazard an educated guess? I'm just after some ballpark figures to see how many pennies we need to save up. Work involved would be pretty similar to building a standard single garage, just plus a bit in each direction 2nd part of the puzzle is to add a 3m x 3m (ish) shed/workshop/office in the garden, as my GF makes jewellery as a hobby and it's better to wave blowlamps and chemicals around in the garden rather than indoors next to the curtains we've seen plenty of sheds for ~£750 and under that would do the job (with a bit of insulation, lighting, electrics, etc. added), but looking for recommendations / ideas / experiences from knowledgeable forumers, one concern is how cold it gets in a wooden shed / how much heating it takes to bring it up to a comfy temperature for fiddly work. Located in Basingstoke as I know prices vary by region. Recommendations of decent local builders welcome.
  4. i have owned my chilly old 1964 88" ragtop 2a for a few years now and have still been unable to get any heat from the so called heater and now its approaching winter again i thought i better crack on and sort something i was wondering if anyone had found and effective yet inexpensive way of demisting and pilot defrosting short of applying a naked flame to the pilot and removing the glass i looked into the erbespacher type heater units but was soundly scared off of them due to horrific prices and have yet to find anything else input would be greatfully recieved
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