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Found 7 results

  1. I am replacing nearly all of the brake pipes and hoses on the D2 after corrosion lead to a split pipe and total brake failure a few days ago (that was exciting, but is another story!) During the removal of the old pipes the corrosion was so bad that one pipe broke in two places. At this time I have the new pipes and hoses in position and am about to make the pipe ends and connect it all up. But.... I was talking to a friend who hill-climbs a rather nice mini, and I mentioned the fiddliness of making some of the pipe ends in situ, and he said that he hasn't done that for years since he just runs SS/PTFE hoses the whole way from m/cyl to each wheel now... With the ABS setup on the D2 that would be just 4 hoses, it removes 8 joints from the system (and we all know that joints are the weak point of any system), and it would be generally easier to do. So I have three questions to put to the collective wisdom of LR4x4.com: Would this be an effective system, ie would there be either no change or an improvement in performance and reliability, ease of bleeding, etc, etc.? Would it be legal, MoT worthy and ok with insurers - I am wondering if some people in authority might be happier with a like for like replacement of the system? Are the threads/fittings in the ABS block anything special or would a standard male hose end go in there ok? Thanks in advance Roger
  2. Hi, I am replacing the brake hoses on my D2 with SS braided ones, but can't find any for the body to chassis links under the near-side wheel arch. The problem is the fitting which needs to be like the picture on both ends of each hose... Any advice would be welcomed! Oh, and they need to be about 8" long since I will be doing a body lift soon...
  3. Ok so a bit of background.. I got a tidy TD4, new shape freelander1 about 4 months back from a garage, quite high miles, but in great shape body wise. Had been running well upto about 1 month ago, when I noticed a little lag around 40-50mph & a bit of smoke, nothing serious, so though I'd do a bit of DIY, filter check etc. Did a bit of reading up on YouTube/Interweb etc & decided to do the air filter & crankcase filter at the same time. Noticed that there was a bit of oil to the side of the dipstick (indicating a blocked breather) & also a little about some of the hoses (possibly a split). Plumped for the BMW type crankcase as the one I took out was filthy. With the intention of replacing the hoses eventually with some nice silicon ones. The car ran much better for the next couple of weeks, no smoke, a little more pokey, happy days...... Yesterday, idling in a jam, my engine started to rev higher & higher, smoke pouring out of the exhaust, ignition off, still running (I papped myself, to say the least). Mr AA turns up, without checking anything other than the dipstick, he said those dreaded words "turbo's knackered" Few calls later at home, sitting depressed at the though of £,SSS of pounds to get my nice looking car back on the road, (I had so many plans for this motor). Now that I've calmed down, I need to know. I've got a spare run-around motor for work, but I want to get my Freelander back on the road within the next few months. Is buying reconditioned turbo from the internet a good move ? Can a novice fit one with a bit of researching ? Is it better shelling out £1,200 (cheapest I've been quoted) to get a garage to do it ? In addition to this, was Mr AA correct in presuming the turbo is dead, could I save it by replacing elements of the turbo, i.e. the hoses, seals etc. or do I take his word for it. Look forward to hearing your replies & I'll keep the thread updated with my progress. Steve.
  4. Hi all, First post here so apologies if it is not in the right place. Had the above for around 4 months now. Ive noticed that the main air hose leading from the air cleaner to the throttle body is cracked and has lost its rigidity! LR Southampton say that I have to buy the entire air cleaner unit at a cost of £245 rather than just be able to buy the hose. The hose itself has 3 main ports and then 2 breather ports on it too. Does anyone know where I can pick up just the hose? Thats crazy money otherwise! Thanks S
  5. Hi I have a Series III 1972 petrol 2.25. I noticed to today that the hose that comes from the breather rocker cap to the inlet has split. I've searched everywhere and I can't find a part number for this. It seems the hose is maybe 8mm at the Oil cap end and a touch bigger (10mm) at the inlet pipe side. Can anyone please help, I'm new to Land Rovers at the moment and just looking to replace some of the worn hoses/pipes and easy bits to start me off. Or do I just buy any old 3/8" car hose..? If so though, surely there is the correct part number and length and shape out there for sale? Thanks very much for any help or if anyone know the best suppliers for bits - I'm used to my MGB GT which places like Moss and the MGOC just have masses of diagrams and part numbers for every screw, hose and bolt etc making sourcing the right bits online too easy. Thanks once again and I can't wait to learn more about my new Land Rover!!
  6. A tale of woe with a (so far) happy ending. While on holiday in the Lake District last weekend, the clutch started to slip in 4th gear, after we had been parked up for the day in Grizedale. ( no slipping from the site to Grizedale ) I changed down to third and kept the revs down to get back to the site. Left the 110 parked up the next day as wanted to try to limp home on the Monday towing the tin tent. The following morning, the problem was still there, but no worse with 1.6 tonne on the back. Drove home at 50mph in 4th gear on the motorway, with no slipping. When close to home, changed up to fifth and floored it up to 60 mph - no slipping! Had a conversation with the guru at Overlandrs, and he suggested rather than a clutch, to try replacing the hydraulic hose to the slave cylinder, as hydraulics seem to cause the most problems on older vehicles. Lo and behold, the hose that was on had a very sharp turn out of the slave, and when draining the fluid, it appeard to be very thin and watery looking. Since changing the hose, I have not had any problems with the clutch slipping, but ave only driven about 50 miles so far. I am guessing that there was sone water in the fluid, and combined with a partial obstruction, the colder temperatures in the Lakes turned the fluid to slush which was slow to come back out of the slave. Certainly worth spending a couple of quid on a hose rather than taking the engine out! Mike
  7. Good day to all! I bought a 1997 Discovery 300tdi automatic and I am looking for a vacuum diagram for the engine - aircon (idle up) since mine has been blocked off by the previous owner and in fact I noticed a T-piece on the vacuum pump hose line which I know is not original. Hope you guys can help out again. Thanks
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