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Found 10 results

  1. I am trying to time my series (petrol 2.25), workshop manual says TDC with 90 octane or 3deg with 83 octane, modern petrol is 95 octane or above anyone have an ideas of where I should set the timing?
  2. Ive studied the various threads and about the above but not seen a similar fault. Every 3-5 years I have to replace my ignition switch/lock . Its a 1990 v8, all the circuit diags show a wire from the ignition to the fuse box then to the heater motor. On all the failed ignition switches its this terminal that appears to melt, the back of the switch gets all loose and wobbly then you have to change it. The wire itself to the fuse box seems pretty thin gauge, though it never blows the fuse the fuse itself is also a touch on the brown singed looking side. Anyone else seen this fault, I'm tempted to run a new wire in to the fuse box from a better switched feed.
  3. Yesterday all was well and this morning 1998 landy 90 300tdi will not start and the solenoid on the starter motor just clicks. Earth cable and power to starter motor seem OK but on checking all fuses the 10A fuse inside the cab had blown. Replaced but now even with the key out of the ignition the warning lights remain lit (oil, battery, handbrake) and the starter motor still just clicks. Could this be a faulty ignition barrel causing both problems and how can I check if this is the case. Fortunately I have a battery isolator so am not draining the battery which is only a few months old and showing green for OK. Any help or ideas greatly appreciated
  4. Hi Folks, Led to believe that the ignition keys have specific codes which may be used to cut spare copies. Does anyone know if they key code is stamped/labelled on the lock barrel once it has been removed? Simon...
  5. Hello, This is my first post on here so please be gentle and admins, by all means move delete as appropriate. Like a lot of people starting with megasquirt I've been through Nigels (HFH's) comprehensive posting as req'd to try and get round various issues. Having finally got my 3.9 started and running with base maps (again provided by Nigel) and the installation effectively 'finished' i've been having the following issues whilst trialling: 1. Flat at WOT and feeling bogged down in the middle rpms 2. Lag from idle before picking up revs 3. Significant lag at idle and throttle is blipped (almost an impulse step) 4. Slow response to regain revs when starting large electrical loads (fans) I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and his opinion was a lack of advance in the ignition (issue 1) and a poor ignition map for the others. Initial test was to up the trim angle to force in more advance across the range, not a very refined method i'll admit, but results sat in the garage was an instant improvement in response whilst up to temperature (away from dreaded zone of warm up enrichment). So with the evidence of my ears and a small amount of knowledge (dangerous i know) I set out to re-write a starting point map that would work, and yet remain safe and not damage the engine. So my brief had 4 requirements: 1. Find a way of modelling a known distibutor, but not a lucas if possible. 2. Generate a new table that would be "safe" 3. Be able to model both vacuum and mechanical advance. 4. Manually adjust to put a "Valley" outside the bottom of my known rev range to assist in stablising the idle The starting point was to try and find a generator that would allow me to understand what it was generating and how it was doing it, and allow me to model a known working solution within the 12x12 map. As a mechanical engineer I decided it was easier to use someone elses solution and reverse engineer understanding than make my own. Luckily after a few hours of searching i came across this thread on another forum: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=29033 which contained the following spreadsheet (of unknown origin i'll admit please do not follow if you are concerned about the security implications of unknown excel spreadsheets): http://home.comcast.net/~whaussmann/MS_MGBGT/MGB_Ignition_map.xls This will generate a table based on both a vacuum advance and up to 2 spring rates for mechanical advance (not quite as refined as a 12x12 table, but please remember I am trying to create something that works and refine in the future). This allows the modelling of a magnecor type dual spring distributor with vacuum (fulfilling the requirement of a "known" solution). This can then produce a mechanical response (advance) that will look something like the two stage graphs at the bottom of the following link. This can be adjusted to fulfil what appears to be a fairly standard "bring in quite a lot of advance early" approach (the spreadsheet can only do linear response, but you could manually input figures to give a more refined match): http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Curving-Rover-Dizzy.htm So as a compromise between the various curves i chose to have the initial spring coming in between 900 and 1700 rpm with an advance of 15 degrees and the second spring operating from 1800 to 3300 rpm with a advance of 10 degrees. This gives a total of 25 degrees of mechanical advance across the rev range with it all in by 3300 rpm. The next challenge was to find the characteristics of a vacuum system that would work on this engine, a few more hours and another tank of juice on the e-cigarette yielded: http://www.distributordoctor.com/vacuum_units.html This gave me the data needed to produce a vacuum response of 5 inHg start 17inHg with a total vacuum advance of 8 degrees across the range. The final stage was to input the static advance, the book says 2-3 degrees for a 3.9 high compression, so I used 6, as it looks better at 0 vacuum and i can adjust as required. Once the table had been generated i adjusted the 500rpm bin to be 800rpm bin +1 degree, uploaded to the ecu. The result, a stable idle at 750rpm and 35-40 kPa, no lag on revving and a big grin in anticipation of the next competion. Having looked around this forum, I have concerns about this as it appears to have a lot of advance, similar in areas to Nige's 'extreme' tables. However, having looked into the theory I think this is quite an accurate modelling of a magnecor distibutor (with the advance limited towards the top end) fitted with a Lucas vacuum advance module (admittedly one for an MGBGT) and represents what would be happening on a dizzy driven ignition system. Hopefully someone may find this useful. Comments please...
  6. Hi, I have a 2006 Defender 130 which has recently become temperamental on starting. About 40% of the the time it starts fine while the remainder all you get when you turn the key is a soft click as if you have zero power in the battery. I normally reset the immobilizer and after 1 - 2 mins of turning the key the car seems to fire up no problem. The non starting is becoming more frequent, I have charged the battery and changed some of the fuses which needed doing. Any suggestions on how to resolve the problem would be really helpful.
  7. Hi all, odd problem with the ignition switch. On searching this and other forums, the usual issue is the key not turning. In my case the key turns but won't stay in the "on" position. So the car starts, then seems to die. Caused a panic for my wife who was driving it when the problem started, and I was imagining blocked fuel lines or dead solenoids (diesel) etc. Anyway, easy fix is a new switch but I wondered if anyone had an idea for a "magic fix", and avoid my needing 2 keys from now on!
  8. Hello all! Quick question for everyone...on a 3.9, 4.0 or 4.6 litre motor with a distributor, what are the ignition settings? How many degrees before TDC should I set the timing AT IDLE? What is the overall advance (at say 3500rpm)? Thanks, Bob
  9. About 50% of the time, when I turn off my ignition, the engine does not shut off. I've noticed that if I turn it off VERY slowly, almost half-way, it will sluggishly turn off. But if I just turn the key to off, the engine stays on. I can even take the key out and he keeps running! Is this common? What do I do??
  10. To the point - '74 Series runs fine while cold. Then after a stop (or after getting warm) it sort of loses momentum. To the point where I have to revv it hard to keep all 4 fireing. At, for instance, a stoplight... And once it drops, it drops to two or at best, three cylinders. Then, as it gets revved up in first gear (clutch out) it sort of kicks in. Until it doesn't... Now, I'm starting to work through the fuel-electricity-air equation and so far I've: - Rebuilt the carb. With proper Zenith parts - Gone from points to electrical breaker - Gone from mechanical to electrical fuel pump - New coil, contacts and wires - Cleaned the air filter and replaced the oil - Replaced all the hose clamps to all the pipes. All of them... And still it's giving me this "#¤&¤%/&/. I'm at the end of my wire here! What's next? Plugs? Plug wires? Firebomb? Any and all input appreciated!
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